Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[Willard]

Hey there's nothing wrong with old school. After all you run a carb too. That's part of what makes things fun sometimes, simplicity. But I figured you had a good reason for running V-belts.

[black91EB]

one of the things that impresses me most about this build is that you get an idea, and then, before your subscribers can blink, its done. I don't check for a couple days, and I come back, and you have basically completed the install. Very impressive. Maybe mine will be like that, when I finally get back to it. (Only 10 more days)

[rookieshooter]

Hey guys, thanks for the kind words.
Just trying to get enough desire to take it all back off and grind, prime and paint.
If not, it will be painted by Mother Nature. . . Rust. Can't have that.
So off it comes today.
I just can't get over how quite it is. Was at Advanced Auto this morning and had to back up into a parking spot and it no longer sounded like some one choking a rabbit.

[rookieshooter]

Well, with out a lot of fan fare, it's done including the cap.
Went to Advanced Auto in the Help section and found this cap. It says its for various GM Saginaw pumps. Well it fits this Ford E 250 just fine. They let me take it out of the wrapper and try it.
I think I need to paint over the china part. I hate to say it, but if it was not for China it would be mighty hard to find some of these parts.

[LostSoul86]

I'd say paint it simply for the the fact that it sticks out like a sore thumb

[rookieshooter]

This engine compartment just beckons for an Engine Cage. Especially with those load bearing coilover hoops.



Here's my plan, take that 1.5 DOM tubing, run over distributer cap, but high enough so I can take cap off. And then bend down as high up on the hoops as I can get it. Then use same tubing and make a sleeved bushing with poly inserts with steel inner bushing for a 1/2" bolt to fasten to hoops with tabs welded to hoops.
One or both ends will be made to easily come off. I can just pivot one end up to work on engine or take both ends off.

[Dannyboy]

wow, do you ever run out of ideas? I would have thought you were done at paint, then the linked rear and now.... Keep up the good work!

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by Dannyboy

wow, do you ever run out of ideas? I would have thought you were done at paint, then the linked rear and now.... Keep up the good work!

Thanks Danny. I'm kicking around some different styles on the engine cage/coilover support thing. May have to order more DOM tubing and flat plate,imagine that.
The amount of tubing ordered is directly porportional to how many cups of coffee I have that morning while thinking this out

[rookieshooter]

Well I kicked around the idea long enough. Forget waiting 17 days for those bushings.
I'll use what I have and I think it will even be stronger.
I've got the tube that goes over engine parallel. This is where I changed my mind about the bushings. Instead of having the tube bent down toward hoop, and then attach with bushings.
I'm now going to weld a short tube on hoop and cut other end 90 degrees to the horizontal tube.
Next there will be a plate welded to both ends of tube. Then they will be bolted together. Then it's just a matter of unbolting to pull engine.
After both are at the correct angle I marked the bottom of tube that is against the hoop. You can see it in the pic. This is where I'll notch the tube for proper fit.
Don't do like I did at first, notch the tube and then try to cut the other end to perfectly fit the horizontal tube. LOL.



.
Here it is notched. Just used a sawz all for this. Then clean up cut with grinder for a snug fit.



Here's what I mean by welding plates on the end of the tubes where it will disconnect. This is just a scrap piece of plate. Need to get 4 pieces cut at my local mill first.

[rookieshooter]

Here are some better pics showing how much room there is. Those first pics really did not show just how much room there will be. Plenty of room to work on engine and even remove valve covers with out removing bar.
Now there will be those plates between the horizontal and angled tube that are bolted together.

[rookieshooter]

I have always liked those spark plug organizers that are used when taking out your plugs. This way their in order of each cylinder and your able to see how each plug is firing for that cylinder.
Right bank would be numbered 1 thru 4 and LB 5-8.

But instead of having holder in your tool box, why not on that horizontal engine cage.
I'll have one for the left bank and one for the right bank.

As 410 once told me Just another coffee induced vision thing

I ordered the flat metal plates I need and should be here this evening.

[rookieshooter]

Well I got the coilover/engine cage roughed in. Still needs more welding and drilling holes for the bolts. And then cleaning up rough spots, prime and paint.
The spark plug tray is just held in place by a magnet right now. There will be two separate trays. Might get in way of drilling holes in those plates, so that will be the last thing done.

[rookieshooter]

Well I just got back from Tractor Supply with some grade 8 bolts for the cage.
Waiting for my anti inflammatory medication to kick in on my left shoulder...torn Rotator cuff. What a PITA to try to do this when you can't lift your left arm up. Going to Orthopedic Doctor tomorrow and he's going to look at the MRI. It's only been like this since the last week of May. So I need to get this done in case surgery is required.

[rookieshooter]

I just went out to snap some pics of the finished engine cage. And noticed how easy it is to see that there is no filter in this Outerwears pre filter. Now there is a filter in the air cleaner on the carb.



Now for the good stuff, coilover/engine cage...Done
When all said and done I only had about 2" of tubing left. Had I had more I would have done some triangulation on the pieces coming directly off hoops, Oh well, nothing that can not be added on later.



When I designed this I did it so the horizontal bar when fully drawn together on one side only, it would leave a 1/4" gap on the other end. Reason...this was done to pre-load the coilover hoops when both sides are drawn tight. This will further strengthen the integrity of both hoops.

[LostSoul86]

Triangulate to the firewall or the rad brace perhaps? If you triangulate from the rear part of the shock tower, I think bracing to the front would look decent, especially if it came off as a single piece. Just an idea to kick around

You wouldn't happen to have ADD would you? Because you sound like me after I take my meds, and pardon the pun, my cylinders are all firing correctly

[rookieshooter]

I may get some more tubing and kick that thought around. The more tubes a trucks got the better it looks LOL. May do something tubed with the fenders.

No, I don't have ADD, but could you only imagine if I did
What really effects me is the weather, cloudy = lazy, Sunny = I can thread a sewing machine while it's moving

[rookieshooter]

Love the looks of these flares I found on another site. You can check it out at the link below. It really opens up the fender wells and those exposed rivets give it a real tuff look.



http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php?...0.msg86935#new

And here is where I found the place to buy them. Only problem their not cheap.

http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/urethane.html

When I pull the pin on the radius arm rear suspension to let it flex it really stuffs the tire into the wheel well and comes close to the outer sheet metal.
It would be a nice mod and also improving on the looks department the same time.
I think the black would look nice. No painting, just black.

[kert0307]

Those are some nice fender flares, but the price is pretty high. I've heard of some people using city bus fenders for similar applications.

That green B2 is somewhat the look I'm going to go for with mine.

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by kert0307

Those are some nice fender flares, but the price is pretty high. I've heard of some people using city bus fenders for similar applications.

That green B2 is somewhat the look I'm going to go for with mine.

I called up Duffs and they do have them in stock. I told them at that price I could only afford one pair at a time. And she said a lot of people do that.
I told her it would be for a B2 and she promptly told me they're for an early bronco. Then I told her you have not seen my 84, there is not a thing on there that's for an 84.

I have several sets of extra fenders laying around and could use one of those to figure out how to do the install so it would look OK. I know there would be some cutting of the stock fender, but imagine that.
One other reason I like that style flare is that it really lets you see what's under the hood from the side, exposing the V8, aluminum heads, headers and coilovers and hoops.

[rookieshooter]

I raised the rear of the truck 1". Looks a whole lot healthier.
It would be even healthier looking with those awsome U.F.O. flares that I mentioned.
I would do some extensive inner fender well work if I do get them to let that rear tire stuff even further.



Here's how I did it.
Just back-off the locking collar with 3/32 allen and turn down the adjusting nut with the wrench that's made for that style nut.
On the aluminum shock sleeve on extreme left you can see a black mark that I made at the original height. This gave me a reference so I knew when I turned down the nut 1".