How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

any idea what I did wrong. Is it critical to get the valve body bolts in the correct holes. I may have mixed up a few.

Go back, check all of the bolts, and use a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench on the valve body bolts.

what is the torque spec for the valve body?

This chart is one of the links in # 67 in my list of useful threads:

It's low, in the 75-85in.lbs. range, which is near 7lbs.ft. It can be done by hand, but that really takes practice and a 1/4" ratchet by wrist only.

The bolts should all stick out about the same amount when "dropped" in. The amount of threads that engage is nearly the same for all of them. So you don't have to label or organize them, but it takes some time to get them right. Keep track of the unique bolts, those of odd colors or for the brackets/solenoids etc.

Always use a new gasket, or the bonded plate type. Don't reuse those, that is evidently a big problem with the 5R55E, very critical gasket alignment and bolt torquing. Take your time, and check that all "L" pins are in place, and no extra parts are laying around. Night,

Luckily I had no extra parts. I used wrist only but a 3/8 drive as hard as I could holding onto the head only. I do have 30 years practice building racing engines for my corvette and race bikes, but I am also only an accountant and welder. what a combo, this is how I get into trouble. The transmission shop won't help. They said they will take it apart for me then recommend a rebuilt trans for $2,500 + 500 to R & R. I may have to do that. Drives me crazy I cannot figure out Automatics! There was no sparkle to the fluid, there was also no metal in the filter that I could find of an size.

torque specs

Here are the related torque specifications: Valve body related torque specs

Since you only have the last two gear selections (1st and 2nd) that may indicate that the manual valve is not correctly engaged with the selector post: Manual valve lever post

I have now read the thread for rebuilding a4ld transmissions and 5R55E Valve Bodies. I am now prepared to tackle this problem again. I think I have a multi-tier'd problem. I did not remove the silver EPC limit valve or screen when I put in the FORD EPC blow off valve Part No. 3L5P-7M203-CA. I also think I have a bad reverse servo O-ring. I did use the correct separator Plate No. 1L5Z-7Z490-HA for the 2000 SOHC 4.0 engine. Many thanks for this most awesome transmission thread. I am going to replace the EPC solenoid, put in the Superior Shift Correction Kit #K4R55E and the Sonnax boost Valve #37947-01K. Cheers. I will also have more respect for the torque specification and get out my inch pound torque wrench and I will rearrange the valve body bolts to reflect their correct positions. Thanks for the Manual Valve engagement advice. I will also check that. I had my MBA brother in law do that side....he probably missed it. HA LOL

Good catch Dale, the manual lever is easy to get off a position while installing the VB.

Take your time and look for anything odd, which is harder than it sounds when under the pan. Happy New Year,

First of all, read through this thread and I have to say thanks to all of you contributors. The information in here is amazing.

Here is my problem. Driving to work one day and my trans started slipping while in D. Stopped and upon acceleration it wouldn't engage. 1 and 2 still worked fine. Drove the last KM or two to work in 2.

Tried reverse, also won't engage.

Read through this thread and decided to check the separator plate gasket and sure enough, it was blown out in several places. Bought a new top and bottom plate gasket from Ford, and a new EPC solenoid. Installed them, checked the bracket and it seemed fine, installed EPC. Reinstalled valve body and torqued everything back to specs. Filled trans back up and tried it. The truck now moves in D and R but is still slipping when I give it alot of gas.

Any advice?

Edit: '99 Ex. Sport. 4.0 SOHC, 5R55E, 4X4

Adjust the bands. Did you replace the servos, and the O ring seals on the low/reverse servo?

No I didn't replace the O ring seals, I assume the low/reverse servo is one of the Solenoids?

Is adjusting the bands something I can do myself?

Check the sticky thread on the top of this section on adjusting the bands. There are three servos in this transmission. The low/reverse servo is behind the square cover with four bolts on the bottom of the transmission. The other two servos are on the side of the transmission.

Ok, read through that thread, seems pretty straight forward. Loosen lock nut, tighten stud to 120 in/pds, slack off 2 full rotations, tighten lock nut.

But what about this?
"The AOD, AODE, 4R70W, C3, C6, A4LD, 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, and 5R55E do not have any adjustment for the low/reverse band."

The low/reverse band doesn't have an adjusting stud like the other two bands.

Ohhh, so I don't have to worry about tightening it? Just tighten the other two?

Yes, but check the tip to see if it's damaged. The Viton D ring kit is an upgrade from the standard rubber O rings.

BrooklynBay said:

Yes, but check the tip to see if it's damaged. The Viton D ring kit is an upgrade from the standard rubber O rings.

Click to expand...

Ditto, on those the reverse band is set at assembly with one of three differing length tips. Unless something wears oddly, that never needs adjusting... maybe after 200k miles. Regards,

removed the silver EPC pressure valve,spring and screen. That found drive and reverse again. I recommend not missing step 6 in the FORD instructions for the EPC Blow Off Valve. All VB bolts were in correct positions, now torqued to 100 inch lbs. 2000 Explorer shifts fine, thank you!

Thanks for the update! Always torque the bolts to their proper specifications. A loss in hydraulic pressure could cause a no drive/reverse issue.