Headlight Switch Replacement

ExplorerDMB · 09-24-2005, 05:38 PM

Last week I was driving at night and my headlights and foglights went out (my parking lamps were still on), and I could barely see the road. I then barley touched the headlight switch and the lights come right back on - which indicated to me that the switch was bad and not a wiring problem. I then ordered a switch, 3L5Z-11654-BA, and replaced it. Here is how you replace it on a second gen:

I believe the bolts inside are standard, but I went ahead and used metric stuff (so you'll need a 7mm and a 8mm - 1/4 drive). You may also want a light if you aren't in a well lighted area.

Go in this order:

(1) Radio Bezel, (2) Instrument Panel Bezel, (3) Bottom Panel (by OBDII connector and Hood Release), (4) Hood Release, (5) Metal Panel (under #3), (6) Under Panel

That may seem a little complicated but it'll all make sense once you get into it.

Now, once you get to #5, you will see two gold colored screws (both 8mms) that will need to be either loosened or removed to pull it down just a little to get to the two other bolts for the instrument panel bezel. After you get those two bolts, you're ready to pull the bezel out. Now, I pull the bezel only out a little bit and then unscrewed the screws for the switch (2 phillips screws). You can also pull the bezel out, just make sure you disconnect everything before. Disconnect the connector once the switch is loose and replace it with the new one. Then reverse the directions to reinstall. It isn't that hard.

Here is what I found:

1) Burnt/Corroded Prong/Post
2) Melted Switch and Connector (a little bit, not enough to complicate the connection)
3) Burnt Out Light (which indicates Off, Parking, Headlamps)

Sorry for the not so clear pictures, but they'll work:

You can see the discoloration on the prongs/post and if you look hard enough you can see a little bit of the melted plastic. My connector (thats in the car) was melted a little, but not enough to keep my switch from getting a good connection. If a connector is burnt/melted really bad, you should replace it before replacing the switch (it may cause the new one to burn up).

When I recieved this Explorer I always noticed that the indicators (Off, Parking Lamps, Headlamps) never illuminated; but it was because the bulb was burnt out. I could of caught this earlier, but I didn't know it was suppose to light up until I was in my brothers '99 Ranger which illuminated. Oh well, live and learn. Hope this helps someone out.

-Drew

*dogfriend* · 09-24-2005, 09:40 PM

Its been discussed before that it is so common to have the indicator light burnt out that most people don't realize that it is supposed to light up. Mine has been out for years.

ExplorerDMB · 09-27-2005, 04:03 PM

That indicator light even stays on during the day - no wonder it burns out prematurely. But it still better than nothing at all

-Drew

ExplorerDMB · 09-29-2005, 10:16 PM

I pulled the old switch apart and the thing was just corroded up inside and the contacts were just worn down. That thing gets a lot of use -- can't blame it for crappin out.

-Drew

ExplorerDMB · 10-10-2005, 03:19 PM

bumps

bmacd · 10-11-2005, 07:33 AM

that doesn't look anything like my switch on my '96

-=bmacd=-

ExplorerDMB · 10-11-2005, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmacd

that doesn't look anything like my switch on my '96

-=bmacd=-

The top picture is not my switch -- it's just a picture I found of one thats similar. That looks like a Ford Expedition and F-150s switch. It was just for reference.

-Drew

*Lefy* · 05-22-2008, 07:52 AM

thanks this was helpful

TheJackal · 05-22-2008, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ExplorerDMB

The top picture is not my switch -- it's just a picture I found of one thats similar. That looks like a Ford Expedition and F-150s switch. It was just for reference.

-Drew

Must be for a Euro spec vehicle, even my mom's Expedition with all the bells and whistles doesn't have rear fog lights. IIRC Ford only includes them on their European models.

As said before the burned out headlight switch bulb is a very common occurrence, I didn't know it was supposed to illuminate either until I saw a thread here about it. Ford really should use LEDs instead of light bulbs for illumination; it'd make life a lot easier.

There are write-ups for converting everything that lights up in the interior to LEDs. I've decided against doing it though because I'm not sure if the brightness and spread of light will be the same with the LEDs as the stock bulbs are. Plus I don't like cutting up my Explorer.

Naptown Pete · 01-13-2010, 11:37 AM

This thread is the reason I joined this forum.
Same problem on my '99 Ford Explorer.
running light, dash lights stopped working while driving all of a sudden.
Check all fuses- All OK.
Remove headlight/running light switch and used a continuity tester on the leads. Seems to be a problem, but the internal inspection of the switch seemed OK with no strange looking corrosion or burnt sections. I couldn't get continuity across the small light bulb.
New switch ordered from Pep Boys arriving this afternoon.
I'll post the results and I'll re-test the continuity across the posts to see if it's different than the suspect old switch.
Fingers crossed...

*freetodragdoors* · 01-13-2010, 12:08 PM

the headlight switch shown above (the top one) is a volkswagen euro switch if anyone was wondering. its the same one i have in my jetta

Electrohacker · 01-13-2010, 01:34 PM

I recommend just ripping the bulb out of the switch and relaceing it with an LED and resistor

then it wont burn out

nas0915 · 02-12-2010, 06:49 PM

great write up. I just had to replace my headlight switch. very easy. the thing that took the most effort was prying the wire from the bad headlight switch. Other than that everything worked out. New swtich cost $30 at local auto parts store.

yimmerz · 11-07-2012, 12:52 PM

Nice thread, I got pulled over by the cops for my tail lights both being out (and my interior instrument lights were out too). I tried to fix it and found some corrosion on the wiring, but I couldn't pry the wire from the switch assembly. I gave up and put it together and then my car wouldn't start. Took it to a mechanic and he got the car to start, but then my headlights wouldn't turn on. Going to give it another shot and if not then I'll be in trouble.

09-24-2005, 05:38 PM	#1
ExplorerDMB Moderator/Technician Mechanicsville, Virginia 2004 Acura TL Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 6,263 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Headlight Switch Replacement Last week I was driving at night and my headlights and foglights went out (my parking lamps were still on), and I could barely see the road. I then barley touched the headlight switch and the lights come right back on - which indicated to me that the switch was bad and not a wiring problem. I then ordered a switch, 3L5Z-11654-BA, and replaced it. Here is how you replace it on a second gen: I believe the bolts inside are standard, but I went ahead and used metric stuff (so you'll need a 7mm and a 8mm - 1/4 drive). You may also want a light if you aren't in a well lighted area. Go in this order: (1) Radio Bezel, (2) Instrument Panel Bezel, (3) Bottom Panel (by OBDII connector and Hood Release), (4) Hood Release, (5) Metal Panel (under #3), (6) Under Panel That may seem a little complicated but it'll all make sense once you get into it. Now, once you get to #5, you will see two gold colored screws (both 8mms) that will need to be either loosened or removed to pull it down just a little to get to the two other bolts for the instrument panel bezel. After you get those two bolts, you're ready to pull the bezel out. Now, I pull the bezel only out a little bit and then unscrewed the screws for the switch (2 phillips screws). You can also pull the bezel out, just make sure you disconnect everything before. Disconnect the connector once the switch is loose and replace it with the new one. Then reverse the directions to reinstall. It isn't that hard. Here is what I found: 1) Burnt/Corroded Prong/Post 2) Melted Switch and Connector (a little bit, not enough to complicate the connection) 3) Burnt Out Light (which indicates Off, Parking, Headlamps) Sorry for the not so clear pictures, but they'll work: You can see the discoloration on the prongs/post and if you look hard enough you can see a little bit of the melted plastic. My connector (thats in the car) was melted a little, but not enough to keep my switch from getting a good connection. If a connector is burnt/melted really bad, you should replace it before replacing the switch (it may cause the new one to burn up). When I recieved this Explorer I always noticed that the indicators (Off, Parking Lamps, Headlamps) never illuminated; but it was because the bulb was burnt out. I could of caught this earlier, but I didn't know it was suppose to light up until I was in my brothers '99 Ranger which illuminated. Oh well, live and learn. Hope this helps someone out. -Drew __________________ My Useful Threads (38 Entries and Growing)

09-29-2005, 10:16 PM	#4
ExplorerDMB Moderator/Technician Mechanicsville, Virginia 2004 Acura TL Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 6,263 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I pulled the old switch apart and the thing was just corroded up inside and the contacts were just worn down. That thing gets a lot of use -- can't blame it for crappin out. -Drew __________________ My Useful Threads (38 Entries and Growing)

10-11-2005, 07:33 AM	#6
bmacd Wannabe Elite Explorer Farmington, MI '96 XLT 5.0 Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 230 Vehicle Specs	that doesn't look anything like my switch on my '96 -=bmacd=- __________________ [ MSN: bmacd@hotmail.com ] - [ AIM: bmacd95b ] - [ ICQ: 5684613 ]

05-22-2008, 07:52 AM	#8
Lefy Elite Explorer Westchester, NY 98 Sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC Join Date: Dec 2002 Posts: 749 Vehicle Specs	thanks this was helpful __________________ Aussie Aussie Aussie Ohy Ohy Ohy My Rig

01-13-2010, 01:34 PM	#12
Electrohacker Wannabe Elite Explorer Clinton Twp, MI '96 XLT V8 4WD Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 1,258 Vehicle Specs	I recommend just ripping the bulb out of the switch and relaceing it with an LED and resistor then it wont burn out __________________ it's funny that everyone's embarrassed to drive a station wagon, but drop a truck chassis under it and call it a SUV and suddenly everyone wants one... my truck's build up (in progress)

09-24-2005, 09:40 PM	#2
dogfriend Human-Animal Hybrid Carmichael, CA '97 Sport 4x4 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 8,828 Vehicle Specs	Its been discussed before that it is so common to have the indicator light burnt out that most people don't realize that it is supposed to light up. Mine has been out for years.

09-27-2005, 04:03 PM	#3
ExplorerDMB Moderator/Technician Mechanicsville, Virginia 2004 Acura TL Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 6,263 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	That indicator light even stays on during the day - no wonder it burns out prematurely. But it still better than nothing at all -Drew __________________ My Useful Threads (38 Entries and Growing)

10-10-2005, 03:19 PM	#5
ExplorerDMB Moderator/Technician Mechanicsville, Virginia 2004 Acura TL Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 6,263 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	bumps __________________ My Useful Threads (38 Entries and Growing)

01-13-2010, 11:37 AM	#10
Naptown Pete Wannabe Elite Explorer Annapolis, MD '99 EXPLORTER Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	This thread is the reason I joined this forum. Same problem on my '99 Ford Explorer. running light, dash lights stopped working while driving all of a sudden. Check all fuses- All OK. Remove headlight/running light switch and used a continuity tester on the leads. Seems to be a problem, but the internal inspection of the switch seemed OK with no strange looking corrosion or burnt sections. I couldn't get continuity across the small light bulb. New switch ordered from Pep Boys arriving this afternoon. I'll post the results and I'll re-test the continuity across the posts to see if it's different than the suspect old switch. Fingers crossed...

01-13-2010, 12:08 PM	#11
freetodragdoors Elite Explorer south brunswick nj 93 explorer Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 54 Vehicle Specs	the headlight switch shown above (the top one) is a volkswagen euro switch if anyone was wondering. its the same one i have in my jetta

02-12-2010, 06:49 PM	#13
nas0915 Wannabe Elite Explorer Tonawanda, New York 96, XLT Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 40 Vehicle Specs	great write up. I just had to replace my headlight switch. very easy. the thing that took the most effort was prying the wire from the bad headlight switch. Other than that everything worked out. New swtich cost $30 at local auto parts store. __________________ 1996 Explorer XLT 2x4, hid's, clear taillights, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 600

11-07-2012, 12:52 PM	#14
yimmerz Wannabe Elite Explorer Kansas City, Mo 1998 Explorer Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	Nice thread, I got pulled over by the cops for my tail lights both being out (and my interior instrument lights were out too). I tried to fix it and found some corrosion on the wiring, but I couldn't pry the wire from the switch assembly. I gave up and put it together and then my car wouldn't start. Took it to a mechanic and he got the car to start, but then my headlights wouldn't turn on. Going to give it another shot and if not then I'll be in trouble.