034x4's D44 SAS thread...

jasonb · 01-30-2006, 01:57 PM

Oh ok.. I thought you were trying to stick that too! I don't think you'll have much luck with even a flux core unless you stitch it.. you may need gas to get it to weld easily. I know that made all the difference in the world with welding on my Samurai body.

*mynameisaric* · 01-30-2006, 01:58 PM

OAW it together.. muahahahahaha.. it might take you 74 consecutive hours, but at least its a little more controlable. But i guess thats what some genius came up with TIG for.. (of which i know nothing about, cuz i dont start that until the second half of the semester.)

*RockRanger* · 01-30-2006, 02:45 PM

When I bobbed my bed I welded it back together with .035 flux core wire. What I did to stop the burn threw is I backed the area I was welding with a 1" wide strip of scrap sheet metal. Then I just did a bunch of spot welds till I had it all filled in. That seamed like the best way I could figure out.

034x4 · 01-30-2006, 03:27 PM

Thanks for the tip rockranger. I am using .035" wire also.

Someone care to further ellaborate what "stitching" is exactly?

*RockRanger* · 01-30-2006, 03:31 PM

Lots of spot welds. I would do a spot weld every inch or so down one side then go do it on the other side then come back to the side I started on. Took a bunch of time to do it though.

034x4 · 01-30-2006, 03:43 PM

Sounds like the only way it will work. Any kind of bead/puddle burns right through it.

*RockRanger* · 01-30-2006, 06:10 PM

One thing I noticed is that when I was welding the bottom of the bed back together it was much easier then the vertical parts. I could have saved alot of time if I would have pulled the bed off and flipped it so I was always welding on something level. Could have been just the operator though.

jasonb · 01-30-2006, 08:30 PM

The way I've "stitch" welded on the Samurai tub was a lot of pulsing basically. I know they make special guns for that, but essentially, you pull trigger as if doing a spot weld, release, before the red hot goes away pull trigger again putting another spot against the previous one. It takes a bit to get to where you can do it well, but after doing a lot of work on the Zuk sheet metal, I could make the weld look like a normal weld without much effort. It's not the fastest technique but it is the only way I could get a nice looking and consitent weld on that stuff without burning through. I was using both .23 and .30 wire with gas.

SkanlaxJMO · 01-30-2006, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 034x4

I might just mount the stock tank in the bed for the time being until I can figure out a for sure way to use another tank or a fuel cell.

How about dual tanks like from the early 90's F-150's

SkanlaxJMO · 01-30-2006, 09:20 PM

also sorry if i missed somthing but what happned to your front fenders.

034x4 · 01-30-2006, 09:58 PM

I'll try that jason, but it's looking pretty ugly lol.

SkanlaxJMO. Dual tanks would defeat the purpose of getting rid of the stock tank...???

I used to have fiberglass fenders and sold them, it says that earlier in the thread.

SkanlaxJMO · 01-30-2006, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 034x4

SkanlaxJMO. Dual tanks would defeat the purpose of getting rid of the stock tank...???

as in both F-150 tanks

034x4 · 01-31-2006, 06:39 AM

I'm relocating the tank so I can run a 4-link suspension. The only room I would have to put a tank is a fuel cell or stock tank in truck bed, or a BII tank b/t frame-rails behind the axle.

JS91X · 01-31-2006, 08:53 PM

well idk if i'd mount my tank there...i had a bad experience with my old fullsize bronc on the trail and it had a tank b/t the frame rails...lets just say it had one huge puncture thru the skid plate and lots of gas on the trail and a ROYAL PITA to fix

slravene · 01-31-2006, 10:07 PM

ive seen a ranger around charlotte with a fuel cell mounted inside of one of those toolbox things that go behind the cab. It took up about 2/3 of the box with recovery gear taking up the other 1/3. It was a pretty smooth setup with the fill cap right through the side of the bed and into the box.

034x4 · 02-02-2006, 10:10 AM

Got the bed 3/4 the way sheetmetal'd. Need to get one more sheet. For some reason the pics make it look like the sheets are bent up and tweaked and nasty. But their not...?? O well.

034x4 · 02-09-2006, 05:08 PM

2" wheel spacers are on the way so I can finally get my turning radius back...

supergildo · 02-10-2006, 01:22 PM

Wheel Spacers?!?!?!?!

redranger4.0 · 02-10-2006, 07:01 PM

i was gonna say the same thing. seems like a good way to ruin a really good build

034x4 · 02-11-2006, 11:49 AM

The turning is rediculously shitty. I'm going to see how it is with them on.

01-30-2006, 01:57 PM	#341
jasonb Jackstand Wheeler Suwanee, GA '99 Sport 4x4 Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 6,390 Vehicle Specs	Oh ok.. I thought you were trying to stick that too! I don't think you'll have much luck with even a flux core unless you stitch it.. you may need gas to get it to weld easily. I know that made all the difference in the world with welding on my Samurai body. __________________ JasonB --Thanks to all the great people in the military for keeping us safe.--

01-30-2006, 01:58 PM	#342
mynameisaric with an A Bolingbrook, IL 98 XLT Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1,814 Vehicle Specs	OAW it together.. muahahahahaha.. it might take you 74 consecutive hours, but at least its a little more controlable. But i guess thats what some genius came up with TIG for.. (of which i know nothing about, cuz i dont start that until the second half of the semester.) __________________ -Driveway Ornament (aka 98 explorer) -05 F150 3V 5.4L Supercab

01-30-2006, 02:45 PM	#343
RockRanger Elite Ranger Fresno CA 86 ranger no more Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,261 Vehicle Specs	When I bobbed my bed I welded it back together with .035 flux core wire. What I did to stop the burn threw is I backed the area I was welding with a 1" wide strip of scrap sheet metal. Then I just did a bunch of spot welds till I had it all filled in. That seamed like the best way I could figure out. __________________ 93 ranger rock stock.

01-30-2006, 03:31 PM	#345
RockRanger Elite Ranger Fresno CA 86 ranger no more Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,261 Vehicle Specs	Lots of spot welds. I would do a spot weld every inch or so down one side then go do it on the other side then come back to the side I started on. Took a bunch of time to do it though. __________________ 93 ranger rock stock.

01-30-2006, 03:43 PM	#346
034x4 Wannabe Elite Explorer B'ham 2003 Ranger Edge Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 438 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Sounds like the only way it will work. Any kind of bead/puddle burns right through it. __________________ www.bluetorchfab.com

01-30-2006, 03:27 PM	#344
034x4 Wannabe Elite Explorer B'ham 2003 Ranger Edge Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 438 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks for the tip rockranger. I am using .035" wire also. Someone care to further ellaborate what "stitching" is exactly?

01-30-2006, 06:10 PM	#347
RockRanger Elite Ranger Fresno CA 86 ranger no more Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,261 Vehicle Specs	One thing I noticed is that when I was welding the bottom of the bed back together it was much easier then the vertical parts. I could have saved alot of time if I would have pulled the bed off and flipped it so I was always welding on something level. Could have been just the operator though. __________________ 93 ranger rock stock.

01-30-2006, 08:30 PM	#348
jasonb Jackstand Wheeler Suwanee, GA '99 Sport 4x4 Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 6,390 Vehicle Specs	The way I've "stitch" welded on the Samurai tub was a lot of pulsing basically. I know they make special guns for that, but essentially, you pull trigger as if doing a spot weld, release, before the red hot goes away pull trigger again putting another spot against the previous one. It takes a bit to get to where you can do it well, but after doing a lot of work on the Zuk sheet metal, I could make the weld look like a normal weld without much effort. It's not the fastest technique but it is the only way I could get a nice looking and consitent weld on that stuff without burning through. I was using both .23 and .30 wire with gas. __________________ JasonB --Thanks to all the great people in the military for keeping us safe.--

01-30-2006, 09:20 PM	#350
SkanlaxJMO Wannabe Elite Explorer Syracuse, New York 96 XLT Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 3,135 Vehicle Specs	also sorry if i missed somthing but what happned to your front fenders. __________________ 2005 F-150

01-30-2006, 09:58 PM	#351
034x4 Wannabe Elite Explorer B'ham 2003 Ranger Edge Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 438 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I'll try that jason, but it's looking pretty ugly lol. SkanlaxJMO. Dual tanks would defeat the purpose of getting rid of the stock tank...??? I used to have fiberglass fenders and sold them, it says that earlier in the thread. __________________ www.bluetorchfab.com

01-31-2006, 06:39 AM	#353
034x4 Wannabe Elite Explorer B'ham 2003 Ranger Edge Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 438 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I'm relocating the tank so I can run a 4-link suspension. The only room I would have to put a tank is a fuel cell or stock tank in truck bed, or a BII tank b/t frame-rails behind the axle. __________________ www.bluetorchfab.com

01-31-2006, 08:53 PM	#354
JS91X Wannabe Elite Explorer cumming, GA 1991 XLT Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 323 Vehicle Specs	well idk if i'd mount my tank there...i had a bad experience with my old fullsize bronc on the trail and it had a tank b/t the frame rails...lets just say it had one huge puncture thru the skid plate and lots of gas on the trail and a ROYAL PITA to fix __________________ James S. 1991 Explorer xlt...nothing 86' yota SAS -- sold

01-31-2006, 10:07 PM	#355
slravene Wannabe Elite Explorer Charlotte, NC (Home) / Raleigh, NC (School) '95 XLT Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 1,657 Vehicle Specs	ive seen a ranger around charlotte with a fuel cell mounted inside of one of those toolbox things that go behind the cab. It took up about 2/3 of the box with recovery gear taking up the other 1/3. It was a pretty smooth setup with the fill cap right through the side of the bed and into the box. __________________ 95 XLT 4x4 / 4.5" / 33x12.5 BFG ATs / 15x8 / Locked CRS Buggy / SOLID HP60s / MAXXIS Trepadors -- Lee R.

02-02-2006, 10:10 AM	#356
034x4 Wannabe Elite Explorer B'ham 2003 Ranger Edge Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 438 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Got the bed 3/4 the way sheetmetal'd. Need to get one more sheet. For some reason the pics make it look like the sheets are bent up and tweaked and nasty. But their not...?? O well. __________________ www.bluetorchfab.com

02-09-2006, 05:08 PM	#357
034x4 Wannabe Elite Explorer B'ham 2003 Ranger Edge Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 438 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	2" wheel spacers are on the way so I can finally get my turning radius back... __________________ www.bluetorchfab.com

02-10-2006, 01:22 PM	#358
supergildo Wannabe Elite Explorer fort collins, co 02 ranger Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 188 Vehicle Specs	Wheel Spacers?!?!?!?!

02-10-2006, 07:01 PM	#359
redranger4.0 Wannabe Elite Explorer Salem CT 2000 Ranger XLT Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 738 Vehicle Specs	i was gonna say the same thing. seems like a good way to ruin a really good build __________________ Join the Resistance

02-11-2006, 11:49 AM	#360
034x4 Wannabe Elite Explorer B'ham 2003 Ranger Edge Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 438 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	The turning is rediculously shitty. I'm going to see how it is with them on. __________________ www.bluetorchfab.com