the big 3

energizedsbs · 10-20-2005, 11:56 AM

stock alt.... i did the big 3 and lost voltage.... all stinger 0/1 awg and connectors.... i grounded one to the frame to the battery... one from the engine block to the frame in the same spot the ground is going to the battery...and one from my alt to my battery... and its a brand new battery from last week...one 0/1 gauge from the bat is going to a 2 way spliter right next to the battery.... one 0/1 gauge goes out and goes to metel strip thats on the fuse block and from there goes to my amps.. and the other is for the starter..... i went from like a 13.5 to a 12.5 at idle... but i think this did this when i got the new battery.. for some reason my old battery that was junk was running around 14.1 when i was driving... now with a new battery and all this work its way lower......and when i turn my lights and ac on it goes down to 12... it never went this low before....and now i just noticed that my power lock button lights on both sides light up with nothing on... weird.... is my computer messing this up? any way to fix this problem?any help or anything suggestions would be nice... thanks guys
its a 2001 sport also....

410Fortune · 10-20-2005, 12:00 PM

the battery doesnt supply voltage when running, the alternator does.

14.4 at idle is what the alternator should put out.
Your wiring to the battery puts more stress on the wiring from alternator to battery, so you might consider an upgrade there.....

energizedsbs · 10-20-2005, 12:04 PM

its all 0/1 stinger pro.... its all upgraded.. thats what i dont get.... someone on a car stereo forum said its my computer is messing with my alt. output.... i dont know...

410Fortune · 10-20-2005, 12:09 PM

the comoputer has nothing to do with alternator output. the belt turns a motor, it generates power, the regulator keeps the power constant at 14.4v The computer has nothing to do with this process.

I dont see how you can upgrade the wiring from the voltage regualtor ( on the alternator) to the battery without rebuilding the alternator harness

maybe you need two batteries.

410Fortune · 10-20-2005, 12:10 PM

the comoputer has nothing to do with alternator output. the belt turns a motor, it generates power, the regulator keeps the power constant at 14.4v The computer has nothing to do with this process.

I dont see how you can upgrade the wiring from the voltage regualtor ( on the alternator) to the battery without rebuilding the alternator harness

energizedsbs · 10-20-2005, 12:21 PM

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/710627... theres some pics... can add more if needed.. i just took the old wire out and added better wire... i dont think the alt. needs any upgrades for that...

410Fortune · 10-20-2005, 12:26 PM

If your stereo system is drawing more amps then your alternator can supply, you need a higher amp alternator and the wiring to handle it.
Its that simple, then the wiring to said alternator must be rebuilt to handle the new found voltage.

the stock alternator I think is 95amps, thats not much for alot of accessories. 130 amp is a nice upgrade.

slravene · 10-20-2005, 12:42 PM

yep

hes 100% right, when i used to be into the audio scene i ran W7s on my stock alternator...but it didnt last but a week or so. You need to upgrade your alternator. And after that if you REALLY wanna do it right, run a secondary battery but its not necessary. Just upgrade your alt to a larger and more capable product and you should be fine. 0 guage wire is VERY big and Ford engineers didnt expect for you to run that big of a draw on the stock alternator...

410Fortune · 10-20-2005, 12:52 PM

yeah 0 gage is typically overkill for just about any audio system

I have 0 gage in my truck, hahaha

slravene · 10-20-2005, 12:55 PM

i ran 0 guage as well....but it was even overkill for the 2 W7s and 2 1000/1s i like overkill

energizedsbs · 10-20-2005, 01:05 PM

but i havent even ran my system... this is with it off.... i just did this yesterday... and started it and drove around for 10 min... my voltage is way lower.... and you guys know why my power door switches are staying on.... and as far 0 awg thats what many people told me to do.... i am going to get a new alt down the road just wanted to do this first....

410Fortune · 10-20-2005, 01:09 PM

what voltage? at the + battery post?

Let me get this straight. You installed a new battery and re-wired your system with bigger wires. Without turning the system on the voltage at the battery, you are monitoring while you drive, and it is lower then it was before all this?

energizedsbs · 10-20-2005, 01:24 PM

at the battery its like 13 volts... in my car the stock volts gauge is low... i have a stinger volt meter in my car and a volt meter on my deck and one in the back with my amps and they are all around 12.3-12.5.... its the same with my car running or off... its very low.... and it is way lower than it was before.... i checked every connection like 10 times... i have no idea whats going on....

410Fortune · 10-20-2005, 01:55 PM

Sounds like the alternator is not charging the battery.
You need to check the voltage regulator on the alternator, while at idel anything under 14.2 or so = new alternator time.

energizedsbs · 10-20-2005, 02:22 PM

how would i check that.... and thanks for all your help 410....i think that it might be time for a new alt... would like to check it though just to see if its something i did or the alt's fault which i hope it is...

410Fortune · 10-20-2005, 02:30 PM

OKay at your alternator there is one big wire, botled right on top of the alt, under a rubber cover.

With a multimeter, truck at idle, put the + lead here and ground the - lead. Should read 14.4V.

Also you should have 14.4V at the battery and at the starter relay (where Ford hooked up all the main + feeds) and also at the front of your underhood fuse box.

If you dont then the alternator is weak.

If you have 14.4 at the alt and not at the battery, the problem is in the wiring.

Also if you remove the alternator and take it to an auto parts place they can bench test it.

Is this the SOHC engine? Because with my 93 OHV 4.0L I was able to buy a F-150 alternator and it bolted in place, 130A unit.

energizedsbs · 10-20-2005, 02:41 PM

well thanks alot 410 your the man....my alt is very bad.... its reading 12.7 at the alt and battery and in front of the fuse box.....i called this guy i know at auto zone and he knows a guy that rebuilds them and he can make it around 200 amps.... and yes i do have the sohc....i better go get that done this weekend.... thanks for help agian.... see ya

410Fortune · 10-20-2005, 02:58 PM

Found your problem.

Stay FAR Away from rebuilt Autozone alternators, they give you a lifetime warranty and you will use it about every 8 months or so.

A local alternator builder cando anything you want. A good one will also reccommend and sell you a new pigtail for your alternator wiring harness.

energizedsbs · 10-20-2005, 03:18 PM

yeah i know about auto zone alts..... its a guy he knows not from autozone... but i'll get it done this weekend sometime.... and i'll ask him what a pigtail does and have him put it on...see ya

10-20-2005, 11:56 AM	#1
energizedsbs Wannabe Elite Explorer tampa fl 2001 explorer sport Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 34 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	the big 3 stock alt.... i did the big 3 and lost voltage.... all stinger 0/1 awg and connectors.... i grounded one to the frame to the battery... one from the engine block to the frame in the same spot the ground is going to the battery...and one from my alt to my battery... and its a brand new battery from last week...one 0/1 gauge from the bat is going to a 2 way spliter right next to the battery.... one 0/1 gauge goes out and goes to metel strip thats on the fuse block and from there goes to my amps.. and the other is for the starter..... i went from like a 13.5 to a 12.5 at idle... but i think this did this when i got the new battery.. for some reason my old battery that was junk was running around 14.1 when i was driving... now with a new battery and all this work its way lower......and when i turn my lights and ac on it goes down to 12... it never went this low before....and now i just noticed that my power lock button lights on both sides light up with nothing on... weird.... is my computer messing this up? any way to fix this problem?any help or anything suggestions would be nice... thanks guys its a 2001 sport also....

10-20-2005, 12:00 PM	#2
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	the battery doesnt supply voltage when running, the alternator does. 14.4 at idle is what the alternator should put out. Your wiring to the battery puts more stress on the wiring from alternator to battery, so you might consider an upgrade there..... __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-20-2005, 12:09 PM	#4
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	the comoputer has nothing to do with alternator output. the belt turns a motor, it generates power, the regulator keeps the power constant at 14.4v The computer has nothing to do with this process. I dont see how you can upgrade the wiring from the voltage regualtor ( on the alternator) to the battery without rebuilding the alternator harness maybe you need two batteries. __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-20-2005, 12:10 PM	#5
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	the comoputer has nothing to do with alternator output. the belt turns a motor, it generates power, the regulator keeps the power constant at 14.4v The computer has nothing to do with this process. I dont see how you can upgrade the wiring from the voltage regualtor ( on the alternator) to the battery without rebuilding the alternator harness __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-20-2005, 12:26 PM	#7
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	If your stereo system is drawing more amps then your alternator can supply, you need a higher amp alternator and the wiring to handle it. Its that simple, then the wiring to said alternator must be rebuilt to handle the new found voltage. the stock alternator I think is 95amps, thats not much for alot of accessories. 130 amp is a nice upgrade. __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-20-2005, 12:04 PM	#3
energizedsbs Wannabe Elite Explorer tampa fl 2001 explorer sport Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 34 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	its all 0/1 stinger pro.... its all upgraded.. thats what i dont get.... someone on a car stereo forum said its my computer is messing with my alt. output.... i dont know...

10-20-2005, 12:21 PM	#6
energizedsbs Wannabe Elite Explorer tampa fl 2001 explorer sport Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 34 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	http://www.cardomain.com/ride/710627... theres some pics... can add more if needed.. i just took the old wire out and added better wire... i dont think the alt. needs any upgrades for that...

10-20-2005, 12:42 PM	#8
slravene Wannabe Elite Explorer Charlotte, NC (Home) / Raleigh, NC (School) '95 XLT Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 1,657 Vehicle Specs	yep hes 100% right, when i used to be into the audio scene i ran W7s on my stock alternator...but it didnt last but a week or so. You need to upgrade your alternator. And after that if you REALLY wanna do it right, run a secondary battery but its not necessary. Just upgrade your alt to a larger and more capable product and you should be fine. 0 guage wire is VERY big and Ford engineers didnt expect for you to run that big of a draw on the stock alternator... __________________ 95 XLT 4x4 / 4.5" / 33x12.5 BFG ATs / 15x8 / Locked CRS Buggy / SOLID HP60s / MAXXIS Trepadors -- Lee R.

10-20-2005, 12:52 PM	#9
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	yeah 0 gage is typically overkill for just about any audio system I have 0 gage in my truck, hahaha __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-20-2005, 12:55 PM	#10
slravene Wannabe Elite Explorer Charlotte, NC (Home) / Raleigh, NC (School) '95 XLT Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 1,657 Vehicle Specs	i ran 0 guage as well....but it was even overkill for the 2 W7s and 2 1000/1s i like overkill __________________ 95 XLT 4x4 / 4.5" / 33x12.5 BFG ATs / 15x8 / Locked CRS Buggy / SOLID HP60s / MAXXIS Trepadors -- Lee R.

10-20-2005, 01:05 PM	#11
energizedsbs Wannabe Elite Explorer tampa fl 2001 explorer sport Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 34 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	but i havent even ran my system... this is with it off.... i just did this yesterday... and started it and drove around for 10 min... my voltage is way lower.... and you guys know why my power door switches are staying on.... and as far 0 awg thats what many people told me to do.... i am going to get a new alt down the road just wanted to do this first....

10-20-2005, 01:09 PM	#12
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	what voltage? at the + battery post? Let me get this straight. You installed a new battery and re-wired your system with bigger wires. Without turning the system on the voltage at the battery, you are monitoring while you drive, and it is lower then it was before all this? __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-20-2005, 01:24 PM	#13
energizedsbs Wannabe Elite Explorer tampa fl 2001 explorer sport Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 34 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	at the battery its like 13 volts... in my car the stock volts gauge is low... i have a stinger volt meter in my car and a volt meter on my deck and one in the back with my amps and they are all around 12.3-12.5.... its the same with my car running or off... its very low.... and it is way lower than it was before.... i checked every connection like 10 times... i have no idea whats going on....

10-20-2005, 01:55 PM	#14
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	Sounds like the alternator is not charging the battery. You need to check the voltage regulator on the alternator, while at idel anything under 14.2 or so = new alternator time. __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-20-2005, 02:22 PM	#15
energizedsbs Wannabe Elite Explorer tampa fl 2001 explorer sport Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 34 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	how would i check that.... and thanks for all your help 410....i think that it might be time for a new alt... would like to check it though just to see if its something i did or the alt's fault which i hope it is...

10-20-2005, 02:30 PM	#16
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	OKay at your alternator there is one big wire, botled right on top of the alt, under a rubber cover. With a multimeter, truck at idle, put the + lead here and ground the - lead. Should read 14.4V. Also you should have 14.4V at the battery and at the starter relay (where Ford hooked up all the main + feeds) and also at the front of your underhood fuse box. If you dont then the alternator is weak. If you have 14.4 at the alt and not at the battery, the problem is in the wiring. Also if you remove the alternator and take it to an auto parts place they can bench test it. Is this the SOHC engine? Because with my 93 OHV 4.0L I was able to buy a F-150 alternator and it bolted in place, 130A unit. __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-20-2005, 02:41 PM	#17
energizedsbs Wannabe Elite Explorer tampa fl 2001 explorer sport Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 34 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	well thanks alot 410 your the man....my alt is very bad.... its reading 12.7 at the alt and battery and in front of the fuse box.....i called this guy i know at auto zone and he knows a guy that rebuilds them and he can make it around 200 amps.... and yes i do have the sohc....i better go get that done this weekend.... thanks for help agian.... see ya

10-20-2005, 02:58 PM	#18
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	Found your problem. Stay FAR Away from rebuilt Autozone alternators, they give you a lifetime warranty and you will use it about every 8 months or so. A local alternator builder cando anything you want. A good one will also reccommend and sell you a new pigtail for your alternator wiring harness. __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-20-2005, 03:18 PM	#19
energizedsbs Wannabe Elite Explorer tampa fl 2001 explorer sport Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 34 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	yeah i know about auto zone alts..... its a guy he knows not from autozone... but i'll get it done this weekend sometime.... and i'll ask him what a pigtail does and have him put it on...see ya