B11 windshield removal by feet

[rookieshooter]

I just used both feet and pushed the 84 B11 windshield out. What a mess. My question is there is a piece of looks like hard rubber about an inch wide behind the glass. I'm I supposed to clean all the thousand bits of glass off that. Or do I somehow remove that to bear metal befor installing new glass and that new piece of rubber. It's also about 3/16" thick. It seems more like rubber then some kind of applied gasket stuff. BTW I tried the wire thing and could not do it. That glass was like welded to that rubber gasket.

[410Fortune]

hahaha the glass is glued directly to the metal, are you looking at glue? I hope you removed the metal trim surround before you pushed that sucker out.

A cheapo windshield tool from any Auto parts store would have saved you that mess (cut the adhesive all the way around, lift glass out)

[roccov12345]

Originally Posted by rookieshooter

I just used both feet and pushed the 84 B11 windshield out. What a mess. My question is there is a piece of looks like hard rubber about an inch wide behind the glass. I'm I supposed to clean all the thousand bits of glass off that. Or do I somehow remove that to bear metal befor installing new glass and that new piece of rubber. It's also about 3/16" thick. It seems more like rubber then some kind of applied gasket stuff. BTW I tried the wire thing and could not do it. That glass was like welded to that rubber gasket.

Scrape that shyat. The way you can tell if it was original or not is, look at the bottom of the windshield directly in the middle and the rubber gasket should look a little bubbled or a little larger than the bead that they run. :p

[rookieshooter]

this is along the bottom.



Bottom corner

Even if you cut the edge the windshield was supper glued to that rubber piece along the 1 inch width and would not come out. when it did come out there was glass still on that rubber piece. It seems the same thickness along the width. Do I remove the rubber and replace that also or do i have to clean it. Wonder if that tool from Auto part will clean that glass of the rubber?

[410Fortune]

I do know Ford made some changes after the 84 & 85 model years Your rear glass (big picture windows) did not bolt to the cab did it? It had a rubber seal?

Looks like that sucker may be a ledge to rest the glass off?
I would just start scraping the adhesive off, that rubber looks like dried adhesive to me, not a rubber seal/mount??

[rookieshooter]

Hey I just went out an applied some heat from my propane torch to the larger pieces of broken glass. First the outer piece came right off then the middle saftey plastic glass would bubble or catch on fire depending on how much heat. LOL And then the glass next to rubber/gasket would come right off. 410, It does look like some gasket material by the lack of uniformity, but must cure like rubber. I think the rear hatch window had seal.

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by roccov12345

Scrape that shyat. The way you can tell if it was original or not is, look at the bottom of the windshield directly in the middle and the rubber gasket should look a little bubbled or a little larger than the bead that they run. :p

Seems to be original.

[rookieshooter]

Just looked in my LMC cataloge on Rangers and B11s. They sell knew glass but say you need to have it proffesionaly installed because they use a urathane adhesive. Hmm. that's why it so tuff to get the bits of glass off that rubber gasket. On another site they said to remove that gasket because the new sealer won't stick well to it. Especially with bits of tiny glass still on it. I'll call some glass places tomorrow.

[410Fortune]

yup bare metal

BII windshields are cheap around here, considering all the Rangers on the road, $97 I think is the cheapest I paid installed, typically $110 or so

[rookieshooter]

The following below came off another site, I like some of the tips. Might just help some others also. The gasket their talking about came from Auto zone.

Quote;
sted on May 30 2006, 07:44 PM
NK and I just installed one today, the gasket came in a roll, if it's hot out, put it in the freezer for like 5 minutes before trying to put it on, it'll help you unroll it (it's REALLY goopy sticky stuff)

you have to get that gasket off, the new type doesn't stick to it well I've heard, we just used this fancy scraper Brian had (fancy putty knife that's thicker and sharpened) and scraped it all off, then took a wire wheel on the angle grinder and that took off the rest, then we primed the surface (bare metal will rust under the seal, which will make it leak), we then rolled out the gasket all around the window opening right near the edge (after putting the spacers down) then peeled off the backing for the gasket, then put the window in place and were done (this is best with two people, one on each side)



Hey, I told ya I used my feet You can see the rear view mirror on the left of those Reebocs LOL. Was'nt going to use my Ns for this fancy foot work. That glass would not come off that gasket so now there is a lot of it still stuck to it. But instead of tryin to get glass off gasket, I'll use the scraper thingy to take it down to bare metal.

[roccov12345]

I have a 92 topaz that came off the same way. If you're putting in a new windshield, scrape off all of the gasket with a razor scraper. Buy the heavy duty guy from autozone etc. I had to break the topaz windshield up and chip off all the glass. It wasn't a fun job but you have to do it. Scrape off the adhesive down to the metal as clean as you can. If you go to autozone they have the window adhesive in a box. I think one box will do it. It's about 20 something dollars. Just run the adhesive around the window seam, double it up in the corners side by side in spots where you think rain would gather up. I did it this way on the topaz and I have never seen one drip of water in the past 8 months. Make sure you clean the window good with rubbing alcohol before you reapply. Use some force to push down on the adhesive and voila.

[rookieshooter]

I'm getting the old gasket off. I using a gasket remover tool that Snap-on makes. It's like a long screwdriver with a heavy duty chisel end that's flat on one side but bevels to a sharp edge on the other. Thanks for all the help.

[roccov12345]

Originally Posted by rookieshooter

I'm getting the old gasket off. I using a gasket remover tool that Snap-on makes. It's like a long screwdriver with a heavy duty chisel end that's flat on one side but bevels to a sharp edge on the other. Thanks for all the help.

That'll do the job!

[CDW6212R]

BTW, there is a massive difference in seal strength between the special installers urethane, and stuff you can buy. The lesser stuff is also illegal in most places, that type is strength rated at less than a third that of the best sealant.

The better sealant is a new product not available when those BII's were made.

I had a body shop install my 93 Limited windshield, with a urethane caulk tube sealer. It was the mid strength stuff, better than older types, but not near equal to what installers use. When it hardened after a couple of years, a tiny leak developed at the top right corner.

After a couple more myears I noticed a wind noise. The seal had let go along most of the perimeter, the windshield could be moved at the top right corner. I took it to a windshield business, and they removed and properly installed it with their sealer, fixing the issue.

Clean all debris out of the channel, and most all of the old sealer. Leave no rust, or bare metal. People should really not ever install a windshield themselves, the real installers sealer is worth the very minor cost to have them do it. Good luck,

This picture is after cleaning the channel, and killing rust, and painting the channel.

[rookieshooter]

Thanks for all that info Don. I'm going to call the pros and see what they have to say. I'll even ask them about the stuff you buy at Auto zone compared to what they use regarding those issues you mentioned. And I don't want issues further down the road.

[CDW6212R]

It cost me $100 for the R&R of the windshield the second time, including a new rubber trim piece. The labor added to installing a new windshield is not much, it's included, but little would be saved by buying just the glass.

This 99 that I'm fixing I paid the full amount, and they will come and install it when I'm ready. Good luck,

[DeRocha]

You should scrape off all of the old gasket/sealant to make for the best possible seal when the new winshield is installed. Normally when a glass company replaces a windshield they leave 3/8" or so of the old sealant still on your windshield lip.. They do this to avoid damaging the metal lip and having to be responsible for reparing it... Anyway see my Leaky Windshield Repair Thread for lots of into and pics on this type of repair.

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by DeRocha

You should scrape off all of the old gasket/sealant to make for the best possible seal when the new winshield is installed. Normally when a glass company replaces a windshield they leave 3/8" or so of the old sealant still on your windshield lip.. They do this to avoid damaging the metal lip and having to be responsible for reparing it... Anyway see my Leaky Windshield Repair Thread for lots of into and pics on this type of repair.

WOW! is all I got to say. I guess that windshield guy was impressed and so I'm I. I see why you hate rust. I guess I'm lucky that the old B11, really has no rust at all around the windshield. I have one small hole on top that I put there via scraper when razor sharp edge penetrated about the same place your pin holes were. I'll seal that up for sure. Even though I have snap on side vinly and a removable lexan rear window that both will most likly leak. I do not want water dripping down the inside of windshield. I'll take the extra effort to minemize a potential rust area. That wire wheel really did a number on cleaning to bare metal. The primer/sealer said if you want a second coat do so after 15 min. but no later then 1/2 hour or wait 36 hours. I'm thinking now of doing a second coat after the 36 hours. That seems strange 36 not 24 hours. I know it dries very fast but must be some chemical thing.

As usual a very informative write up that helps many. And yes I'm calling a pro to install.

As usual a good write up and pics.

[CDW6212R]

True, they rely on the integrity of the original seal to not leak, and the cut they make gives them an excellent surface to seal to.

I did have a ton of rust around my upper windshield channel. I had chosen the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator over the POR 15 for a rust neutralizer. It worked well, and no special before or after treatments were necessary.

Rust is a huge enemy on cars, always try to remove it completely. If not, do as much as possible to kill it, neutralize it, and seal it up. Eastwood makes a wonderful liquid product that does more to kill rust than most stuff. I bought it when it was called OxySolv, it's literally a thin as water clear liquid that can seep into cracks, etc.

The thicker type stuff that is more common doesn't get into cracks as well, plus they all catalyze, and harden/dry up rather quickly. The Eastwood liquid that I mentioned stays wet and continuously works on corrosion. Literally you can nsoak parts in it, and reuse it. I liked spraying it on with a bottle sprayer, and working the metal surface hours or a day later with the neutralizer product. Regards,

[kilabeez0]

I'm an autoglass tech and i came to this forum seeking info on a troubled regulator install I did. This post is a riot. First of all the windshield is a MAJOR part of the vehicles structure and is not something that an amateur should even think about replacing. I'll leave it at that.

Second, the "rubber gasket" your all referring to is urethane. It's applies in a somewhat liquid state and hardens to form a rubber like substance. It bonds to itself better than any applied primer which is why a technician scrapes the old urethane down to 1/16 of an inch.

To the poster who said they unrolled the adhesive and then removed the backing, welcome to the 1980's. That is what they used back then and is not safe for use as a windshield sealant. I wont ramble on about that stuff, it is still used for some back glasses and quarter glasses, but only with a bolt tightened frame around it.

And a pro would charge you the same to install a windshield whether you took it out yourself or not, and you wont get any kind of warranty for your primers and adhesives that dont work with the autoglass company's adhesive.

If you knew how easy a professional could rip the windshield out of your explorer it would've been worth any additional cost rather than making the mess you made. Hope you turn the defrost on blast and get a strong vacuum out to suck all the glass bits that fell down inside waiting to blow into your face on a nice hot day.