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Electric Fan Variable Speed Controller Installation

aldive

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 XLT
I have had my Flex A Lite Black Magic Extreme 180 fan installed for 10 months now ( http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140251&highlight=electric+fan ).

This fan has provided me excellent service with one exception, the control unit ( http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140251&page=5&pp=20&highlight=electric+fan post #84 ). The control unit went “all screwy” with the fan turn on function. I contacted Flex A Lite ( they are not real good returning E Mail, but the phone worked well ) and they provided me a new control unit at no cost ( Warranty ). It has functioned suitably but I wanted something better; something with variable speed control, no high amp draw on start up, would automatically stay running after shutting off the truck and had manual control capability.

I investigated several other controllers before deciding on the VSC from Flex A Lite; all the others lacked one or more features I desired. I actually liked the controller from Delta Controls (http://www.dccontrol.com/index.htm ) better, but ruled it out since it did not offer manual control of the fan.

I obtained the new VSC ( Variable Speed Controller # 31165 - http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/vsc.html ) from Jeg’s. The cost was $89.98 to my door.

This unit varies the fan speed from 60 to 100% depending on the cooling requirements. The controller operates the fan at 60% with the AC on ( unless the coolant temperature demands 100% speed ). Another constructive feature is that the VSC has a built in 5 second delay on start up to reduce charging system demands. The VSC also operated the fan for 30 seconds after turning off the truck’s ignition switch if the coolant temperature is higher than the turn off point.

First impression of the VSC is that it is a much better constructed unit than the stock 180 controller. The 180 controller can be opened and the circuit board is loose ( sloppy construction )whereas when opened the VSC’s “guts” are sealed in potting material.

Installation was straightforward and took about 1 hour; the majority of the time was in wire preparation.

My biggest dilemma was where to mount the VSC. I did not want to mount it to the fan shroud since access to the wires is difficult in that location ( been there done that with the stock controller ). I decided to tie wrap the VSC to the antilock brake system tubing. This position allows easy access to the wires and the unit is out of the way.

Terminals on the VSC:

#1 Battery Negative
#2 Negative to Fan
#3 Positive to Fan
#4 Positive Input from Battery
#5 Negative Override Signal OFF
#6 Negative Override Signal ON
#7 AC Compressor Negative signal
#8 AC Compressor Positive Signal
#9 Ignition Positive Signal
#10 Temp Sensor Positive
#11 Temp Sensor Negative

The positive and negative wires from the fan are attached to the VSC ( terminals 3 and 2 ) with spade terminals ( after crimping on the terminal, heat shrink tubing was used to seal the connection ). Now the positive ( the fuse was removed from the holder ) and negative wires from the battery were attached to the VSC ( terminals 4 and 1 ). I attached the 12v positive ignition switched wire to the VSC ( terminal 9 - I used the wire that I previously used with the stock 180 controller ). The 12 v positive wire from the AC ( red wire ) was spliced to a green wire to the VSC ( terminal 8 – terminal 7 was not needed ). The existing manual turn on switch wire was then attached to the VSC ( terminal 6 ). The VSC also has a provision to manually switch off the fan ( terminal 5 ); I set up this feature with a switch mounted under the hood so that I can turn off the fan when working under the hood.

The temperature probe was attached as close as possible to the upper radiator hose by pushing it through the radiator fins. With about ¾” of the probe protruding from the radiator, the cap was reinstalled on the probe ( this serves two purposes: (1) to keep probe in place and (2) to insulate the probe from the cooler air for a more accurate temperature reading ). The two wires from the probe had to be spliced onto new wire to be able to reach the VSC ( terminals 10 and 11 - polarity was not important in this case ).

To set the VSC’s thermostat, the adjusting screw was turned clockwise to set the turn on temperature at a higher temperature ( counterclockwise for lower ). To achieve maximum accuracy ( +/- 1 F ), coolant temperature was determined by my OBD II scanner ( http://www.autoxray.com/products.aspx?sub=scanners&id=2 ). I set the thermostat to turn on at 185 F. This allows the fan to come on at 60% speed and as the temperature rises to 195 F, the fan reaches 100% speed.

There are LED indicators on the VSC to indicate the status of the various conditions.

L1 Fan Signal
L2 AC Operation
L3 Ignition Signal

When the truck is started, after 5 seconds, L3 will illuminate. With the motor running and AC on, L1, L2 and L3 will be illuminated. With the motor running and just the fan running, L1 and L3 will be illuminated.

After mounting the VSC, all the wires were enclosed in loom material to yield a safe and neat look.

A road test was performed including both highway and in town ( traffic ) driving. This controller performed flawlessly as advertised; a vastly superior product when compared to the stock 180 controller.

I really like the fact that there is no high amp draw from the fan at the truck’s start up as well as the fact that the fan automatically runs for 30 seconds after turning off the truck

I recommend the VSC to anyone with an electric cooling fan.
 

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Does this fan controller vary the speed by pulse width modulation (PWM), or another method, like varying the voltage (amplitude), or frequency? I saw that this kit uses those squeeze style splices. I've used them in the past on low current applications, and they seem to be OK. Whenever I've used them on high current applications with heavy gauge wire, I've noticed that they tend to overheat, and start making intermittent contact. It might just be better to solder a splice. The regular crimps, like butt connectors, and spades are OK to use. I've never had problems with them.
 


















Any one have any info on the two VSC models? I find 31163-vsc and the 31165-vsc. Cost is quite a bit different, as is the amount of control, the 63 operates from 20%-100% power while the 65 operates 60%-100% power. Also, the 65 has a probe that goes between fins, while the 63 has bungs that go into the radiator and the probe screws into them. Which one is best for the explorer use? Can you combine the 63's versatility w/ a probe from a 65? Any assistance is appreciated.
 






I use the 65 and have no issues whatsoever.My Delta Current Control unit failed.

The 63 seems like an excellent controller also. Just curious, but where would the bung be installed into the radiator?
 






I didn't even know there was a 63, hmm. I kind of like the options of the 63 much better. Starts out at 20% or 30% and finally 80% or 100%, thats a very nice gradual step.

I would also be interested on how the bung works. Would it be real hard to install? If not, I just found my new kit.
 






I just did some more research and I couldn't figure out where you were going to put the little 1/4 NPT probe at in our radiators. Well I just was looking through Flex-a-lite's catalog thats online and you can just purchase a In-line-hose adapter.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/32082/10002/-1

Thats a bit much for a hose adapter and for an over all fan controller.
 






I just did some more research and I couldn't figure out where you were going to put the little 1/4 NPT probe at in our radiators. Well I just was looking through Flex-a-lite's catalog thats online and you can just purchase a In-line-hose adapter.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/32082/10002/-1

Thats a bit much for a hose adapter and for an over all fan controller.

Good find, Adam; thanks for posting.
 












That's interesting, though I'd rather install a probe elsewhere.
 












The radiator hose would be better than a heater hose, no? What size are ours? 1.5" or 1.25"? Seems like a good route to take. They are both (the flex-a-lite and the E.G.) pretty close in price. The E.G. is metal compared to the F.A.L. plastic, but who knows?

400-32082.jpg


2283_d.jpg


Actually looking at the F.A.L. one it seems to be welded so I guess it's powder coated metal, eh? Well, EG is $35, and FAL $40. I guess I'll have to make a decision. So what size is ours, gotta search now...
 






It depends on what you want...

The upper radiator hose only gets water when the thermostat is open...

On the 4.0 ohv (I don't know about the sohc) the heater hose that comes out of the head has water flowing in it all the time (even when the thermostat isn't open).

That is why I got my water temp from there...

For a fan controller though, it may be better to read the water temp in the radiator since thats what your trying to control.. Radiator water temp.. It might even be better to read it on the output of the radiator since that is the temp your worried about (temp of water going back to the engine).

~Mark
 






I was wondering that myself, top hose or bottom hose. Definitely doing a radiator hose, not heater. But the top hose would read temp at the top (hot side) of the rad, bottom hose, the cool side. Wouldn't it be best to err on the side of caution and get the fan on as soon as the top gets hot rather than to wait until the bottom does? Any one else? I don't know. Thanx for the help tho.
 






I guess it depends on the temp set you set the fan to start on..

If you read it at the top hose you can set it higher and not have it run too often..

If you put it in the lower hose you set it to a lower temp.. That way your controlling the output temp of the radiator (which is what you really care about)..

~Mark
 






I just purchased a used Mark VII electric fan and a Flex Lit VSC from Amazon and have started mappping the best installation location and wiring for the install. I am planning on working on all the wiring and placement before i pull the radiator and build a shroad for the fan. First question of many.

1. Where is the best location to Tie in the VSC #9 connector for a Ignition positive turn on connection?
2. Also on a 2000 Explorer where should i tie into the AC compressor?

Thanks in advance,
 






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