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Helpful thread, for squeak, squeal, chirp noise from under hood, engine compartment

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Old 02-01-2010, 01:22 PM   #101
Bronco2
NRW Germany
B2 90 XLT
 
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Hi...

if you have this noise..
i would recomend to swap it instandly..
as the PCM is confused by incorrect CAM Position and fuel delive..

and the gears will be worn ..

i did it just last saturday and had MIL Lamp on with System Bank 1+2 to rich.. Fault

now its gone..
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:08 PM   #102
BrianAckerman
Long Beach, California
1995 Eddie Bauer
 
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Question Any info on '95 vin X Synchro?

I see most of these are for 96 and up 4.0's or 5.0s, I've got a '95 and am having a big problem finding the synchro for less than a full paycheck. I've got the chirp and it runs like utter crap.

Anyhow, my questions are these.

1. Are the synchros different for 95 to 96?

1. Are there any interchange part numbers that will work for this? The new ford part number is: F3tz 12k073 ($400+). Will this one work --> 92TF-12K073-AA ($80 used on ebay).

2. Will replacing just the sensor be a quick fix for the drivability issue and get me to pass smog?

3. Are there any different procedures for replacing this on the 95 4.0 vin X engine?


Thank you for any help and thank you already for all the help this forum has provided.
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:13 PM   #103
X6StringerX
 
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Unfortunately, I cannot offer any insight into part interchangeability between '95 and '96 4.0 engines, but I can say with 100% certainty that replacing the sensor itself will not act as a "quick fix" if it is, in fact, the synchronizer that is chirping.

Wow, that was a long sentence, haha.




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Old 02-03-2010, 03:40 PM   #104
BrianAckerman
Long Beach, California
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not sure this helps with my interchange question, but I found some more part numbers. I don't have any experience with parts interchange so.. ???

Ford part number is F3TZ12K073A

Mazda part number is ZZM32035Y

Bosch part number 0232101012
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:04 PM   #105
BrianAckerman
Long Beach, California
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now I'm thoroughly confused...

checked out napa's website and used their interchange part number search.

Found that they have two parts with the same interchange number. One is labeled as a camshaft sensor ($409.99 and not available) and the other is labeled as a crankshaft angle/camshaft synchronizer ($220.49 and special order).

I called napa and the guy said they are the same unit, one is just a remanufactured unit. What the heck? Are the crank and cam synchros identical? iIs there even a crank synchro? Did they just label it wrong?
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:29 PM   #106
X6StringerX
 
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Take a look at this thread. I did a little bit of investigative work for the 5.0 part numbers a few months ago when I replaced mine. I know the part number information won't help you, but I do address the quality difference between the Motorcraft parts and the Dorman units sold by Napa. I also ran across the name confusion issue on RockAuto's website.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=260979




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Old 02-03-2010, 05:56 PM   #107
BrianAckerman
Long Beach, California
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Thanks for the help! I think I'm going to go with the ebay unit. It has the same casting numbers as the nappa remanufactured unit. I'm just too poor right now to spend any more money on it.

I have to get it to pass smog to finish registering it or I have to go to court.
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:57 AM   #108
Bronco2
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.. which ebay part? Number??

i would recommend replacing the full unit...

or.. take it apart and try find a mechanic who can rebuild the brass bearing ...

if the part makes noise then the bearing is bad

Watch out the gear.. is it worn too?
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:05 PM   #109
BrianAckerman
Long Beach, California
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ebay# 250569630081

I can't take the old one out as I still need to be able to get to work. From what my Haynes manual says, the 95 doesn't have an alignment tool and will need to be retimed. That is the sensor/synchro goes in parallel with the centerline of the engine (while it's at #1 TDC), then turn the engine to 26 degress ATDC, then with the key to ON, connect a voltmeter and turn the sensor counterclockwise till you find a voltage, then turn it clockwise till it reads 0, then find the point where it changes from 0 to a + voltage.

I'm going to have a mechanic install it. Damn theives for stealing my tools!
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Old 02-04-2010, 01:41 PM   #110
Bronco2
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this type syncro you dont need a tool..
the window style shows your when allign is right...

i do have one here..
but shipping from germany is to expensive i think..
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Old 03-15-2010, 03:55 PM   #111
Knox5.0
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I have a question about this "squeak,chirp" noise the camshaft position sensor makes. Since the noise can be intermitten, if it is the camshaft position sensor will it squeak and chirp continuous off and on while the motor is running regardless of the operating temp or is it possible the noise will go away once the engine is warmed up? I have a similar sound to what is in the video but its only on cold start up and promptly goes away once the engine is warm and stays gone. I do have a tensioner pulley that has some play in it and that is what i suspected was making the noise until i seen this thread.
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Old 03-15-2010, 04:51 PM   #112
gavin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knox5.0 View Post
I have a question about this "squeak,chirp" noise the camshaft position sensor makes. Since the noise can be intermitten, if it is the camshaft position sensor will it squeak and chirp continuous off and on while the motor is running regardless of the operating temp or is it possible the noise will go away once the engine is warmed up? I have a similar sound to what is in the video but its only on cold start up and promptly goes away once the engine is warm and stays gone. I do have a tensioner pulley that has some play in it and that is what i suspected was making the noise until i seen this thread.
this is how mine was, but then eventually became more consistent. It still didn't do it all the time, but was occuring more and more frequently.




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Old 03-15-2010, 07:36 PM   #113
Knox5.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavin View Post
this is how mine was, but then eventually became more consistent. It still didn't do it all the time, but was occuring more and more frequently.
So you are saying that your noise started only on cold starts like the first start of the day or when the motor was cold and then it went away when the motor warmed up? But it eventually started doing it even when the motor was warm too?
When i lift my hood to listen to the noise mine makes it sounds like its coming from the upper roller tensioner that has play in it. Then i listened to the video of the noise in this thread and it sounded somewhat similar but not exact. Can someone tell me where the camshaft position sensor is located on the motor? Also, ive read some posts that say they had a CEL along with the sqeaking noise. Do you always get a CEL with the cmp malfunction?

Last edited by Knox5.0; 03-15-2010 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:42 PM   #114
lugnuts55
Milwaukee, WI
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I've been reading this whole CMP sensor thread and it has me thinking about an issue I have with my 96 4.0 OHV with over 200k on the engine. I don't think I have the chirping sound, at least that I've noticed.
What I have is lean codes, both banks and a rough idle when cold especially. I do not have P0340. I have replaced the lower intake gaskets as well as the plenum O rings and EGR tube O rings at the plenum. I get a P0303 code occasionally and have replaced the injector. When this idle problem started, I changed the plugs and wires. I put a new ignition coil pack on and an EGR valve trying to eliminate vacuum leak possibilities. It was the original one anyway. I even was able to try a different PCM with no luck.
I found the thread about running Seafoam through the PCV hose. I did that just before a 400 mile trip. It ran pretty well and the CE light didn't come on until a couple days after the trip. It started running rough again a few days ago. I ran another can of Seafoam through and put one in the tank. The fuel filter is new. The old one was on it's way to being plugged. I have another trip later this week so it will get another good drive.
After all that, my question is would a CMP sensor have something to do with the way it's running even though there is no code? It seems to have improved in the acceleration department but the mileage is crappy. I got 17-18 on the highway at 65mph. I used to get 22mph. It's really lousy around town. Should I not bother with this as long as it's not throwing a code or is it worth a try? I won't have much hair left by the time I figure this out so any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks.
Mike
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:25 PM   #115
gavin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knox5.0 View Post
So you are saying that your noise started only on cold starts like the first start of the day or when the motor was cold and then it went away when the motor warmed up? But it eventually started doing it even when the motor was warm too?
When i lift my hood to listen to the noise mine makes it sounds like its coming from the upper roller tensioner that has play in it. Then i listened to the video of the noise in this thread and it sounded somewhat similar but not exact. Can someone tell me where the camshaft position sensor is located on the motor? Also, ive read some posts that say they had a CEL along with the sqeaking noise. Do you always get a CEL with the cmp malfunction?
correct.
and the sensor is located at the front of the block underneath the coils.
I verified my squeak was the synchro by the use of a mechanic's stethescope.




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Old 03-16-2010, 09:50 AM   #116
Knox5.0
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The more i read on this thread the more im starting to think my squeak could very well be this cmp syncronizer. It sounds pretty easy to test the idlers and pulleys to eliminate them as possible causes by removing the serpintine belt. Is it difficult to remove the belt? How would i go about taking the belt off?
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:20 PM   #117
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I always go in from the underside of the engine bay on the passenger side to access the belt tensioner for the 5.0. It's pretty tight, but should take more than a couple minutes worth of busted knuckles to figure out what position will work best for you.

An easier troubleshooting step that you could take prior to removing the belt is to hold a stick, long screw driver, et cetera against the top of the camshaft sensor while someone else starts the vehicle and reproduces the sound. If you have a mechanic's stethoscope, then by all means use that instead, but the other method will work. If it is, in fact, the camshaft synchronizer, you will feel a somewhat harsh vibration that only occurs along with the sound. This is how I confirmed mine was bad. Unfortunately, I didn't decide to do this until after I had wasted a couple of hours checking other stuff.




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Past and Present: '97, '98, '98, and '01
gmanpaint[09:50pm] : nate (v8powerbaby) throws the love word around like yesterdays newspaper
gmanpaint[09:50pm] : he got me on the phone one night
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:17 PM   #118
Knox5.0
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It turns out that my camshaft synchronizer was the problem. Not my idler pulley. I replaced it today along with one of my coil packs that instantaneously went bad when changing the sync drive. I decided to go with the Dorman part from Napa so i hope it holds up good. It does come with a lifetime warranty however. My Explorer is running great and best of all no more squeaking and chirping.
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:23 PM   #119
X6StringerX
 
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I'm just curious, but did you end up going with Motorcraft or Dorman for your replacement part?




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gmanpaint[09:50pm] : he got me on the phone one night
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:37 PM   #120
Knox5.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X6StringerX View Post
I'm just curious, but did you end up going with Motorcraft or Dorman for your replacement part?
If you are referring to the sync drive, i bit the bullet and went with the Dorman from napa as stated above.

If you are referring to the coil pack, i went with a motorcraft.
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