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Explorer & Ranger Transmissions, Transfer Cases, & Differentials Transmissions, Transfer Cases. A4LD, 4R70W, 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, 5R55E, M5OD, BW 1354, Control Trac, GEM, AWD. Ford 8.8", Dana 35

96 XLT 4.0L 4X4 transmission removal procedures

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Old 07-31-2006, 03:41 AM   #1
banspy
Arizona
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Question 96 XLT 4.0L 4X4 transmission removal procedures

Hey all,
Been awhile since I needed some help but I finally had to break down and replace the 4r55e tranny in my XLT. I have a few questions regarding this and I hope someone can help!

1.) Anyone heard of Phoenix Remanufactured Transmissions and if so, what about them good, bad, or really ugly? I ordered the tranny and it should be ready by Friday. Got it for $751. Just need to remove old one and exchange with the new one.

2.) I've read the Haynes many times but as most know, the articles are generic for many years of a particular vehicle. My problem is I dont have access to a lift and I dont have a tranny jack. Could some please tell me the easiest way to remove the transmission from my truck with maybe, hopefully step by step instructions or photos and let me know what I should do to safeguard the next transmission?

3.) What is the best way to flush the trans lines before I put this other tranny in since I wont be able to drive it to flush it or should I just wait until the new tranny is in and take it somewhere to get it flushed?




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Old 07-31-2006, 01:22 PM   #2
toy720
fort worth tx
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First off phoenix hard parts or remanufactured trans I believe they are the same company unless they changed there name. Are reputable In my opinion.

Ok now on to the other stuff the tranny take down is pretty cut and dry Yours is 4x4 so you will have to remove the transfer case too. (first) I would get the chiltons manual they are more year specific than haynes but In my opinion I would definatly get a tranny jack I dont know if there is a Harbour Freight wher you are but you can get one for about 75.00 from them or you could buy an adapter that will fit a 3 ton jack. That is a pretty heavy tranny and with out a jack it will be a pita Most people will tell you to remove the exhaust but I did not Its just a little tricky I did have to remove the cat though. Just make sure you pay attention as to how you take everything off label it etc... dont forget the Tc bolts to flexplate 4 of them I do not have any pics not sure if there are any pic of removal in forum but there might be if I find any I will post them for you (dont forget to support the motor ) after you take the tranny out.
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Old 07-31-2006, 01:25 PM   #3
toy720
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Oh sorry as far as the cooler lines you could by some cooler line flush from where you are buying your tranny. But yes flush the lines and cooler very well.
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Old 07-31-2006, 01:41 PM   #4
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Id say start off by removing the driveshafts, then the transfer case, then any exhaust pieces that may get in the way, then support the transmission with a jack, then remove the cross member piece that supports it (located just slightly in front of the tailshaft housing), then make sure everything is disconnected from the transmission (electrical wiring, and the cooler lines), then remove the starter so you can get to the torque converter's bolts, then remove the torque converter bolts (you have to manually turn the engine from the front pulley to do this - you should only rotate the engine one way - your manual should cover this), then start unbolting the transmission (the hardest ones to get to are the top bolts). Then the next hardest part is sliding it towards the back and bringing it down as its quite heavy - but have two people guide it as it slides back to clear the enigne's output splines and once thats done, let the jack back off slowly and watch the transmission as it comes down to make sure it doesnt snag anything (wires)




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Old 07-31-2006, 01:56 PM   #5
toy720
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I put the explorer up on stands and started taking eveything apart b/c of a little leak that I think is the seal in the bell housing. I consider myself a Avg-level mechanic working at a nice relaxed pace; but those darn RUSTED Ohio salt winter-ed header bolts.

I didn't really see on the board people posted times on how long it took them to do things, so i thought i might chime in here and let people know how/what whe bolts are all rusty. Mind you this project is working on a car that has been through 8years of Ohio salt and snow. I have a heated garage with jackstands and a stock explorer.

3Hrs
1. prep the explorer on stands and look over task at hand.
3. get all tools ready.
4. take a lunch break.
5. remove the drive axles front and rear(nuts were rusted).

3.5Hrs
1. disconected all wiring attached to tranny and T-case.
2. drained T-case fluid.
3. broke loose the T-case bolts.
4. tried to get header bolts loose for the Y-pipe

6Hrs approx
1.Removed Transfer Case(1hr..not too bad..rested it on my legs and then wiggled off..make sure to have drain pan for tranny fluid)
*make sure to cover all shafts and machined parts with paper towels, plastic bags, or somehting.....you don't want any foreign debris getting in there*
2.Removed Starter(1Hr..PITA with 4x4 real real tight space..must have patience..i have small hands too)
3.Removed T/C-flexplate bolts(:30mins..not too bad)
4.Removed Drain Pan from tranny(:45mins) and didn't find any metal shavings in bottom...just nice red fluid . I put the pan back up and secured it down with 2 bolts so no dust or dirt would get up there.
5.Moved the car off ramps and put on jackstands and removed front tires(:30mins)
6.Tried those header bolts again...no luck....(:45mins)
7.Thinking time, pondering time, or as some people call it hitting a wrench against something b.c it makes you feel better time(we needed a new light anyways )(1.5hrs)

4hrs
1.got the header flange cherry red and the 4 header bolts slid right out....wow amazing...i guess we learn by trial and error.
2.removed tranny crossmember and supported tranny with jack. removed tranny 2in thick rubber stopper.
3.removed heat shield from cat to clear tranny
4.removed y-pipe....YEAAAAAAA!
5.disconnected cooler lines
6.removed tranny to engine bolts(this one took some time)
7.i had tranny supported right behind the bellhousing and it balanced really well. i actually removed the tranny by myself b/c dad went to bed. be very careful on this step....tranny weighs in the approx of 200lbs.


That's it....now i have to figure out what the real problem is! also make sure to be very clean and plug all holes in tranny b/c dirt doesn't mix well with fine machined parts.


Found this info maybe it will help

Last edited by toy720; 07-31-2006 at 01:59 PM. Reason: Found this info
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Old 08-02-2006, 10:58 AM   #6
banspy
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The Haynes manual talks about replacing a gasket between the transfer case and the output flange...anyone know what this part # is and where I can get one? Also...as far as getting my hands on a tranny jack, I think I'm SOL on that. Would a regular SUV floor jack with 23" lift suffice?




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Old 08-02-2006, 11:01 AM   #7
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Sorry, I forgot...on the flush is there a way to do it before I put the new tranny in or do I have to wait until I get it in then drive it somewhere to have it flushed?




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Old 08-02-2006, 12:51 PM   #8
toy720
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You have a gasket between the tail housing and the back of the transmission and a gasket between the tailhousing and transfer case I had to get mine from the dealer.
You also have seals on the transfercase. 1 input, 2 output I got mine at oreillys As far as the cooler lines flush them before you put the new tranny on.
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Old 08-02-2006, 06:36 PM   #9
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Assuming your not removing the tailshaft housing from the transmission, you only need the gasket between the transfer case and the tailshaft housing.




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