How To: Replacing Front Hub / Bearing 1995+ Ford Explorer IFS

*gavin* · 06-06-2009, 08:21 PM

it is not necessary to grease anything there, except lower balljoint and tie-rod end if applicable.

any area of the hub assy does not need greasing.

Trefty · 06-08-2009, 10:53 PM

I'm having a sort of "groaning" sound whenever I turn left and can hear a bit of humming when driving. It sounds like it's coming from the left so I changed out the driver's side hub assembly but I'm still getting the same noise, could it actually be the passenger side I'm hearing? I guess the best way is to change it out and see, but I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea of what else it could be? Since it's only happening when turning left and not right I'm guessing it would have to be isolated to a part of one side of the vehicle. Thanks.

SQ is the SQUAD · 06-17-2009, 09:55 AM

i did mine a few weeks ago before i found this forum. i was real reluctant to do it at first but then when i actually looke at it and seen how east it was i was happy i did. this reall is a job that a novis could do. took me about 35 mins with no help, no how to no nothnig, straight off eying it

Trefty · 06-22-2009, 09:33 PM

Did this last weekend. When I got the hub assembly off it was clear it was the cause of the problem. When I spun it you could feel the "looseness" and clunking. Big thanks to the thread starter for the very detailed write-up!

mountainchef · 07-07-2009, 03:32 PM

I'm head mechanic at home and my folks place. This is by far one of the best DIY posts I've seen on any forum.

Note to anyone considering this task. Do both sides to assure that you won't be under your rig again anytime soon after. I have found over the years that it is almost always best to replace things as a set left/right. You'll also want to have a cold six pack waiting for you when you complete the job. Moral support and celebration.

For the novice wrench men. It is proper to use some sort of thread lube on all fasteners in any repair or assembly as to eliminate binding and assure proper torquing. I would recommend using "red" lok-tite on the 3 hub bolts and the caliper bolts; and "blue" on the splash gaurd bolts. Also, a little anti-sieze or assembly lube on the axle nut to allow easier install and if you have to remove it in the future this makes things a little easier as well.

mike60510 · 07-16-2009, 09:41 AM

Hats off, massive thanks to NCC for this post. Did the job in about 1.5 hours. And to think I paid $500+ last year to have this work done on the drivers side. Again, much thanks

chance942 · 07-18-2009, 02:44 AM

Thanks for taking the time to do that man. Helped out a lot. FYI Autozone has the Timken hub for $149.99 where I'm at. It has the same ABS lead.

curt1007 · 07-18-2009, 06:38 PM

Well after 2 years sense I have bought this Mounty the front end has been making noise. I replaced the drivers side last week and what a difference. Now I am going to get one for the other side soon too, not sure if it needs it but I think it would a good idea to replace it too. I have already replaced the tie rod ends, and all the ball joinst, the upper arms, and all the shocks.

Got the passanger side on now, all feels fine so far.

JohnnyBoy1102 · 07-20-2009, 04:11 AM

Hey Im curious about this. My 98 Explorer sport is making a loud screetching noise almost like bad brakes, but i just replaced my brakes a week ago and the scratching didnt show up until last night so it leads me to believe its a bearing issue. it sounds like when my buddies F150s wheel bearing went out and im wondering if changing the hub might fix this.

chance942 · 07-20-2009, 10:21 AM

I don't know Johnny. I've replaced the hub and I still have the noise. I've greased the hell out of the slide pins and pad rails on my calipers too. To be honest with you it's driving me crazy! Is the noise intermittent? Mine is.

JohnnyBoy1102 · 07-20-2009, 09:08 PM

Yes mine is intermittent. its a high pitched screech just like bad brakes but just like i said i just did my brakes two weeks ago and i didnt skimp i used good brakes so i cant think of what it could be. it sounds like metal on metal just like my buddies F150 wheel bearings right when they went out that morning we heard the same noise and then all of a sudden the truck was riding on straight hub.

johnnym · 07-26-2009, 09:54 AM

I replaced the hub bearings on both sides (right side was bad) one of the easiest I ever did but now I have a wobble in the front and the right side makes a clunking noise when I hit the brakes, it didnt have this problem before I changed the hubs new tires new alignment brakes about 4 months old rotors were turned but they were new also just took the glaze off. anyone have this problem after changing the hub bearings

*CDW6212R* · 07-26-2009, 11:18 AM

Check your caliper bolts quickly, that is the worst thing which could be wrong. Confirm that those are tight first, then anything else won't be critical. Those large bolts should be very tight(lug nut tight), and have a drop of loctite red on them.

johnnym · 07-26-2009, 11:35 AM

just pulled it all apart again and found a small piece of rust behind the rotor about as wide as a quater which I thought I had gotten all of it, this time I did so that should take care of the wobble and the clunking noise .now to put it all back together and see and thanks CD I thought you just had to tighten them hand tight did not know you had to lug tight them I thought since they float being to tight would put them in a bind

*CDW6212R* · 07-26-2009, 11:48 AM

Ah, the big caliper bolts I was referring to, not the tiny rubber boot bolts. Never remove those tiny bolts, unless you actually gut the caliper of grease and clean them perfectly, and replace the grease. No one does that, therefore do not touch those bolts. The chance of getting dirt in those boots with the grease is probable if you loosen the bolts, compared to leaving them alone. So, only remove the big caliper(bracket) bolts, they don't wear out and have no grease to mess with.

I'm glad that you found the problem.

scubadogg86 · 07-26-2009, 04:28 PM

i did this 8 months ago . replace hub assemblies on both sides sounded and felt great however the noise is back ... please help!!!

johnnym · 07-26-2009, 07:02 PM

the clunking sound is still there I dont have the wobble but now the brakes go to the floor I bled them twice just to make sure the air was gone if any as I hung them from the shock so as to not bend the line anyone have any suggestions I am out of patience with this one

*CDW6212R* · 07-26-2009, 08:11 PM

I'd be checking bolts and fluid levels first, bleed a little more if needed. The clunking sounds should be separate from the pedal dropping to the floor. For that I'd check the fluid, and then think of the booster or master cylinder.

charsawbis · 07-27-2009, 11:32 AM

How tight should the rotor be on the hub when the wheel is off?
I have a wobble randomly when braking and think i might be the rotor. All the rotors and pads are new.
With the caliper off, the rotor will drop and lay against the caliper bracket. The caliper bracket bolts are tight as anything and the pins are new with new boots and fresh grease.
Any ideas? Did the rust behind the rotor cause the wobble?

Thanks in advance. I need some suggestions, anyone...please help!!

*CDW6212R* · 07-27-2009, 02:28 PM

4WD rotors are hats, they are held on only by the wheel. 2WD rotors have bearings and a nut that should only be about 1lbsft tight, (hand tight, rotor spins easily).

The 4WD hub nut should be as tight as you can get it with a breaker bar, 200lbs.ft.

06-06-2009, 08:21 PM	#141
gavin Elite Explorer Anchorage, Alaska '97 Explorer XLT AWD 5.0L Join Date: Sep 2002 Posts: 3,046 Vehicle Specs	it is not necessary to grease anything there, except lower balljoint and tie-rod end if applicable. any area of the hub assy does not need greasing. __________________ Daily Driver: 1997 V8 Explorer - K&N FIPK, Granatelli MAF, 3" Body Lift, WAR-153 Shackles, Torsion Twist, custom-built skidplate. 4.56s, Ion Alloy 133's, 33x12.5 Interco TrXus STS. 1986 Bronco2: RIP

07-07-2009, 03:32 PM	#145
mountainchef Wannabe Elite Explorer Black Diamond, WA 1996 XLT - mom's car Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	Phenominal write up! I'm head mechanic at home and my folks place. This is by far one of the best DIY posts I've seen on any forum. Note to anyone considering this task. Do both sides to assure that you won't be under your rig again anytime soon after. I have found over the years that it is almost always best to replace things as a set left/right. You'll also want to have a cold six pack waiting for you when you complete the job. Moral support and celebration. For the novice wrench men. It is proper to use some sort of thread lube on all fasteners in any repair or assembly as to eliminate binding and assure proper torquing. I would recommend using "red" lok-tite on the 3 hub bolts and the caliper bolts; and "blue" on the splash gaurd bolts. Also, a little anti-sieze or assembly lube on the axle nut to allow easier install and if you have to remove it in the future this makes things a little easier as well.

07-18-2009, 02:44 AM	#147
chance942 B Las Cruces, NM 2000 Sport sohc con trac Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 244 Vehicle Specs	Sweet Thanks for taking the time to do that man. Helped out a lot. FYI Autozone has the Timken hub for $149.99 where I'm at. It has the same ABS lead.

07-18-2009, 06:38 PM	#148
curt1007 Wannabe Elite Explorer Windermere,FL 2001 Mountaineer AWD V-8 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 46 Vehicle Specs	Well after 2 years sense I have bought this Mounty the front end has been making noise. I replaced the drivers side last week and what a difference. Now I am going to get one for the other side soon too, not sure if it needs it but I think it would a good idea to replace it too. I have already replaced the tie rod ends, and all the ball joinst, the upper arms, and all the shocks. Got the passanger side on now, all feels fine so far. Last edited by curt1007; 08-14-2009 at 06:06 AM.

07-20-2009, 04:11 AM	#149
JohnnyBoy1102 Wannabe Elite Explorer Baltimore, MD 98 Sport Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 104 Vehicle Specs	Hey Im curious about this. My 98 Explorer sport is making a loud screetching noise almost like bad brakes, but i just replaced my brakes a week ago and the scratching didnt show up until last night so it leads me to believe its a bearing issue. it sounds like when my buddies F150s wheel bearing went out and im wondering if changing the hub might fix this. __________________ 98 Explorer Sport, 2 Door 4 X 4. - 2 12 inch MTX magnum Subwoofers (cheap temps)- 1000 Watt MTX magnum Amp ( Again, Cheap temp)- 120 Watt 6 X 8 Rockford Fosgate Punch 3 Way Speakers - Kenwood MP538U Single Din Head unit with USB/ Ipod Interface.- Possible mod coming soon, 2 Memphis Audio 12 Inch Subs. depending on money and time. - All Black Custom headliner- other than that mostly stock.

06-08-2009, 10:53 PM	#142
Trefty Wannabe Elite Explorer 99 XLS Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 49 Vehicle Specs	I'm having a sort of "groaning" sound whenever I turn left and can hear a bit of humming when driving. It sounds like it's coming from the left so I changed out the driver's side hub assembly but I'm still getting the same noise, could it actually be the passenger side I'm hearing? I guess the best way is to change it out and see, but I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea of what else it could be? Since it's only happening when turning left and not right I'm guessing it would have to be isolated to a part of one side of the vehicle. Thanks.

06-17-2009, 09:55 AM	#143
SQ is the SQUAD Wannabe Elite Explorer Boston MA 1995 xlt limited Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 2 Vehicle Specs	i did mine a few weeks ago before i found this forum. i was real reluctant to do it at first but then when i actually looke at it and seen how east it was i was happy i did. this reall is a job that a novis could do. took me about 35 mins with no help, no how to no nothnig, straight off eying it

06-22-2009, 09:33 PM	#144
Trefty Wannabe Elite Explorer 99 XLS Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 49 Vehicle Specs	Did this last weekend. When I got the hub assembly off it was clear it was the cause of the problem. When I spun it you could feel the "looseness" and clunking. Big thanks to the thread starter for the very detailed write-up!

07-16-2009, 09:41 AM	#146
mike60510 Wannabe Elite Explorer Batavia, IL 98 Mountineer Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 2 Vehicle Specs	Hats off, massive thanks to NCC for this post. Did the job in about 1.5 hours. And to think I paid $500+ last year to have this work done on the drivers side. Again, much thanks

07-20-2009, 10:21 AM	#150
chance942 B Las Cruces, NM 2000 Sport sohc con trac Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 244 Vehicle Specs	Screetching noise I don't know Johnny. I've replaced the hub and I still have the noise. I've greased the hell out of the slide pins and pad rails on my calipers too. To be honest with you it's driving me crazy! Is the noise intermittent? Mine is.

07-20-2009, 09:08 PM	#151
JohnnyBoy1102 Wannabe Elite Explorer Baltimore, MD 98 Sport Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 104 Vehicle Specs	Yes mine is intermittent. its a high pitched screech just like bad brakes but just like i said i just did my brakes two weeks ago and i didnt skimp i used good brakes so i cant think of what it could be. it sounds like metal on metal just like my buddies F150 wheel bearings right when they went out that morning we heard the same noise and then all of a sudden the truck was riding on straight hub. __________________ 98 Explorer Sport, 2 Door 4 X 4. - 2 12 inch MTX magnum Subwoofers (cheap temps)- 1000 Watt MTX magnum Amp ( Again, Cheap temp)- 120 Watt 6 X 8 Rockford Fosgate Punch 3 Way Speakers - Kenwood MP538U Single Din Head unit with USB/ Ipod Interface.- Possible mod coming soon, 2 Memphis Audio 12 Inch Subs. depending on money and time. - All Black Custom headliner- other than that mostly stock.

07-26-2009, 09:54 AM	#152
johnnym Wannabe Elite Explorer Dayton 1997 Explorer 5.0 AWD Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 25 Vehicle Specs	wobble I replaced the hub bearings on both sides (right side was bad) one of the easiest I ever did but now I have a wobble in the front and the right side makes a clunking noise when I hit the brakes, it didnt have this problem before I changed the hubs new tires new alignment brakes about 4 months old rotors were turned but they were new also just took the glaze off. anyone have this problem after changing the hub bearings Last edited by johnnym; 07-26-2009 at 11:36 AM. Reason: wrong part name

07-26-2009, 11:18 AM	#153
CDW6212R Elite Explorer Knoxville, TN 98 Mountaineer A4WD Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 12,934 Vehicle Specs	Check your caliper bolts quickly, that is the worst thing which could be wrong. Confirm that those are tight first, then anything else won't be critical. Those large bolts should be very tight(lug nut tight), and have a drop of loctite red on them. __________________ Don 91 Lincoln LSC/SE, 99/93 Explorer Limited 4WD, 98 AWD Mounty with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors. Soon a BW4406, built trans, stereo and interior. The best thing that could help us all, is the Fair Tax Plan. Be American, Buy American (Manufacturer)

07-26-2009, 11:35 AM	#154
johnnym Wannabe Elite Explorer Dayton 1997 Explorer 5.0 AWD Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 25 Vehicle Specs	rust just pulled it all apart again and found a small piece of rust behind the rotor about as wide as a quater which I thought I had gotten all of it, this time I did so that should take care of the wobble and the clunking noise .now to put it all back together and see and thanks CD I thought you just had to tighten them hand tight did not know you had to lug tight them I thought since they float being to tight would put them in a bind

07-26-2009, 11:48 AM	#155
CDW6212R Elite Explorer Knoxville, TN 98 Mountaineer A4WD Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 12,934 Vehicle Specs	Ah, the big caliper bolts I was referring to, not the tiny rubber boot bolts. Never remove those tiny bolts, unless you actually gut the caliper of grease and clean them perfectly, and replace the grease. No one does that, therefore do not touch those bolts. The chance of getting dirt in those boots with the grease is probable if you loosen the bolts, compared to leaving them alone. So, only remove the big caliper(bracket) bolts, they don't wear out and have no grease to mess with. I'm glad that you found the problem. __________________ Don 91 Lincoln LSC/SE, 99/93 Explorer Limited 4WD, 98 AWD Mounty with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors. Soon a BW4406, built trans, stereo and interior. The best thing that could help us all, is the Fair Tax Plan. Be American, Buy American (Manufacturer)

07-26-2009, 04:28 PM	#156
scubadogg86 Wannabe Elite Explorer plymouth, MA 2001 Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 42 Vehicle Specs	i did this 8 months ago . replace hub assemblies on both sides sounded and felt great however the noise is back ... please help!!!

07-26-2009, 07:02 PM	#157
johnnym Wannabe Elite Explorer Dayton 1997 Explorer 5.0 AWD Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 25 Vehicle Specs	arg not done yet the clunking sound is still there I dont have the wobble but now the brakes go to the floor I bled them twice just to make sure the air was gone if any as I hung them from the shock so as to not bend the line anyone have any suggestions I am out of patience with this one

07-26-2009, 08:11 PM	#158
CDW6212R Elite Explorer Knoxville, TN 98 Mountaineer A4WD Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 12,934 Vehicle Specs	I'd be checking bolts and fluid levels first, bleed a little more if needed. The clunking sounds should be separate from the pedal dropping to the floor. For that I'd check the fluid, and then think of the booster or master cylinder. __________________ Don 91 Lincoln LSC/SE, 99/93 Explorer Limited 4WD, 98 AWD Mounty with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors. Soon a BW4406, built trans, stereo and interior. The best thing that could help us all, is the Fair Tax Plan. Be American, Buy American (Manufacturer)

07-27-2009, 11:32 AM	#159
charsawbis Wannabe Elite Explorer New York 96 Eddie Bauer 4.0 Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 50 Vehicle Specs	Front Left Rotor How tight should the rotor be on the hub when the wheel is off? I have a wobble randomly when braking and think i might be the rotor. All the rotors and pads are new. With the caliper off, the rotor will drop and lay against the caliper bracket. The caliper bracket bolts are tight as anything and the pins are new with new boots and fresh grease. Any ideas? Did the rust behind the rotor cause the wobble? Thanks in advance. I need some suggestions, anyone...please help!!

07-27-2009, 02:28 PM	#160
CDW6212R Elite Explorer Knoxville, TN 98 Mountaineer A4WD Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 12,934 Vehicle Specs	4WD rotors are hats, they are held on only by the wheel. 2WD rotors have bearings and a nut that should only be about 1lbsft tight, (hand tight, rotor spins easily). The 4WD hub nut should be as tight as you can get it with a breaker bar, 200lbs.ft. __________________ Don 91 Lincoln LSC/SE, 99/93 Explorer Limited 4WD, 98 AWD Mounty with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors. Soon a BW4406, built trans, stereo and interior. The best thing that could help us all, is the Fair Tax Plan. Be American, Buy American (Manufacturer)