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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
I have a 92 Explorer XLT, and need some information on the coil pack. I've had to replace it 3 times in the last month. What would cause it to go bad?
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Wow, those things are pretty hard to kill from what I've seen. What caused you to replace it? Is there any chance you did something while replacing it that could go back to the way it was? I'm thinking maybe the coil pack connection from the harness makes a bad connection, or shakes loose, simulating a bad coil pack.
when I posted, I hadn't replace it for the third time. when I was taking it off I noticed the harness was not fully engauged. I pluged it back in and it cranked right up. The first two were replaced by a friend of mind. It ran fine for a couple of days then wouldn't crank. I started taking it off and found one of the screws was missing. I removed it and installed it again and it cranked right up. This morning It wouldn't crank again. I removed it and installed it again it cranked right up. Does the coil pack need to be insulated from the mounting bracket? Any suggestions? Thanks
I thought things were pretty much isolated no matter what you did; I'm not sure off hand though. My explorer's not with me right now, but I'll check it tomorrow when I'm home again.
I put electrical tape under the coil this weekend and it cranked fine. Went to lunch today and it wouldn't crank. I thank I have a bad plug connection and it vibrates loose. I also have something draining my battery. I let it set for 24 hrs and the battery is dead. Any suggestions on where to start looking for a short.
I think it might be misleading... The coil pack will not keep it from cranking. If the coil pack doesn't work it will crank forever and throw a check engine light (speaking of which, have you scanned the computer codes?). It will only keep it from sparking. If you're not cranking the first thing you should look at is the battery and battery cables (for corrosion). Your battery may not be draining, it may just have dead cells or be weak. If the battery is OK, consider the cables (which have a big history of hiding corrosion in the insulation). If both check out, look into the starting circuitry, as opposed to ignition circuitry. Autozone has a lot of helpful diagrams if you want to start tracing. They actually look identical to my Ford shop manuals. Look under vehicle repair info for the explorer.
I had the lug on the positive battery cable fail some months ago. Symptoms were: won't crank but the rest of the electrical system was fine. It had developed enough resistance where the big red wire goes into the lead-potted battery connector that it would have too much voltage drop under the high current demand of cranking.
It acted like a weak battery, but battery was fine. Voltage when not cranking was normal. Battery voltage when cranking was normal, but voltage at the starter and even 2 inches from the battery was almost nil when cranking.
If this is you problem, here's a quick fix until you can replace the battery cable: Drill a small hole into the top of the battery lug right above the big red wire (drill the lug, not the battery post). Drill gently through the soft lead until you hit copper. Run an 8-32 tap into the hole, then put in an 8-32 screw and snug it down. Truck will not crank.
Don't worry about it, Ben. If I had a nickel for all the times I've wasted $5 or more, I'd be rich!
I considered the screw fix temporary, but I did use it for a couple of weeks, until I replaced both battery cables with new ones (a job-and-a-half which took 4-1/2 hours to do).
The "temporary" fix probably would have been good for years. It was certainly more convenient than connecting a battery jumper cable between the battery and the starter every time I wanted to start the truck.
Thanks, for the help, I finally broke down and bought a repair manual. I had the battery checked and it was bad. When I turn on the ignition the gauges go crazy, the rpm gauge does a 360.
