Door Lock Problem - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

gtgillis · 02-18-2007, 12:30 PM

The power door locks in my 1999 XLT will not lock using the switches on the driver or passenger doors. Strangely, I can open the back hatch and use the power lock switch there to lock and unlock the doors. Since I can lock and unlock from the back I am ruling out the actuators and relays leaving only the lock switches or wiring. I am leaning toward the problem being a broken wire since driver and passenger lock switches act the same way.

Comment? Suggestions?

Does anyone have a schematic of the driver door wiring?

Regards,

Greg

Medic 19 · 02-22-2007, 08:01 PM

I have been searching for some help with this issue myself. for me it is only the driver's doorswitch (locking only) that is not functioning. I swapped driver-passenger switches and neither will work in the driver's door but both work in the passenger side. I find it very strange that a 00' EB 4.0 with 55k mi has a wire/wires or connection that is failing. Anyone have any short cuts on where to look first? Known trouble spots?

JIGAWHAAT · 02-22-2007, 08:39 PM

Subscribing
I just encountered the same problem. If I figure it out before you do I will post what was wrong with mine here.

*Gatorblazer* · 02-22-2007, 08:46 PM

Ok, try this

1. Always check for fuses and grounds, as they are the most common faults.

2.If you pull the switch from the back, place it in one of the doors locations and test it. If it does not work, then you know that it is wiring. (Take what you know works and try to eliminate it from your problem. Taking a switch from the door and putting it in the back area will also do this).

3. Take a look at the harnesses inside of the door. See if you can find anything that just looks weird like burns, buildup, shorts. At this point I would also clean the harness plugs just to be sure.

If non of these are not the problems, then it may be in the main harness. Thats just a matter of looking as well

budwich · 02-24-2007, 05:06 PM

Does your remote work (ie. lock the doors)? Your problem is basically a broken PK/V wire going towards the lock relay in the back cargo panel (drivers side). If the remote works then your problem (with the wire) is closer to a splice... if its a four door, near the passenger door column, if two door near the left rear speaker area. If the remote doesn't lock either, then the problem is likely closer to the lock relay in the cargo panel.

Medic 19 · 03-24-2007, 03:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by budwich

Does your remote work (ie. lock the doors)? Your problem is basically a broken PK/V wire going towards the lock relay in the back cargo panel (drivers side). If the remote works then your problem (with the wire) is closer to a splice... if its a four door, near the passenger door column, if two door near the left rear speaker area. If the remote doesn't lock either, then the problem is likely closer to the lock relay in the cargo panel.

Yes my remote works. Thanks this is exactly the type of help/info I was hoping for.
Sorry for the delay guys but I moved and have been without internet services. Brent

slpdave · 03-24-2007, 10:02 AM

If you have a Volt/Ohm meter use and exacto to trace through the wires (put one end on the plug on the master control panel pop the trim out of the inside body panel (between the fender and the E-brake pedal, that will give you full access to the wireing harness. Touch one lead to the back of the master control panel, touch the other to an exacto blade or needle pirceing through the insulator to the contuctor on the same wire inside. using the Ohm setting it should read an almost perfect short (0 ohms) if it reads over 100 ohms you probably have a bad wire, do this with the key out and the vehicle powered down. to check for voltage put on lead on ground (any bare metal surface should work or the big black wire going to the master control panel. with your meter set to read volts touch the other to one contact press button is there any voltage? push button the other way, is there any voltage there. with windows it is a + voltage is one direction a - voltage is the other. I found a broken wire inside the harness doing it this way. be sure to use a heavy gauge multifillament wire to replace the piece that is broken and insulate everything properly. DO NOT USE SOLID CORE WIRE to repair the amperage will burn the wire up if you do.

David

SN95GT50 · 05-10-2007, 10:46 AM

Can you buy just the lock switch from the dealer? Or, is the window switches and lock a single unit? How much is a new lock switch?

John

Medic 19 · 05-14-2007, 04:05 PM

You should be able to get at least the lock switch separate. I know that they are interchangable from driver to passenger, that is how I knew it was a wiring problem and not the switch.

AltimateX · 05-16-2007, 04:17 AM

That just started happening to me too about two weeks ago. Really a nuisance.

gtgillis · 05-16-2007, 12:43 PM

I spent about 3 hours trouble shooting this problem and found the problem to be a splice that was corroded. The splice is located under the trim of the driver side rear door on my XLT. The reason the splice corroded is there was some water in the channel with the wiring harness. I cut off the corroded ends of the wires, soldered them all together and heatshrunk them to protect them from moisture. Now my doors lock and unlock.

I am still looking for the source of the water in the wiring harness channel. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

Andy94SC · 02-24-2008, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtgillis

I spent about 3 hours trouble shooting this problem and found the problem to be a splice that was corroded. The splice is located under the trim of the driver side rear door on my XLT. The reason the splice corroded is there was some water in the channel with the wiring harness. I cut off the corroded ends of the wires, soldered them all together and heatshrunk them to protect them from moisture. Now my doors lock and unlock.

I am still looking for the source of the water in the wiring harness channel. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

I have this exact same problem with my wifes 99 Mountaineer, only the rear switch works to lock the doors.

I'd like more information on this splice, what color wires? Is it in the door or in the body near the door?

(edit)
I think I found that it would be the Pink and yellow wires from the lock relay, according to these diagrams...

From the looks of things there are two seperate wires that control the lock relay in te first digram, "H" which comes from the rear liftgate switch of the second diagram (and works) and the other is "A" which comes from a splice of the two front door lock switches and the remote entry module also in the second diagram (none of which work for me.)

I am assuming this is the splice mentioned in the post above. Depending how the splice breaks you could lose any combination of those three inputs to the lock relay.

Now to find the location of that splice....

Andy94SC · 02-24-2008, 12:11 PM

Found it, at the rear corner of the drivers rear door opening. Very small, abour 18g pink and yellow wires. One from the front of vehicle meets three from the rear.

It looks OK. Covered in heatshrink, and also sealed with glue. all the wires are held tight in place.

However, cut off the heat shrink, and it fell apart...

Soldered everything back together and it is all working now. PITA though, there is not any extra length to work with, and it is 20 Deg F outside...

heysimon · 06-07-2008, 10:50 PM

This drove me nuts for a year!! If it wasn't for the photos , I would still be working on it. Thank You!!!

FirstFordEver · 07-10-2008, 09:24 PM

This thread certainly pointed me in the right direction. My son's '99 XLT was doing the exact same thing. Kinda goofy the locks "locked" from the cargo area button, but would not lock from the door buttons or remote. "Unlock" worked fine.

Anyway, for the "a man has gotta know his limitations" dept, I took mine to the dealer today. They were well familiar with this issue and they actually located (4) broken splices in the wire...they wondered how it could "lock" at all. The replaced the entire length of the wire, not just a new splice(s) and re-solder.

Just so you know "how much"...3.0 hrs labor @ $80/hr = $240. It's done and done right.

bluestream1 · 07-21-2009, 05:11 PM

I had the same problem, and thanks to this tread I was able to fix it. Mine was corroded in the connector that joins the one pink/yellow wire to three. It looked fine from the outside, but was powder inside. I don't think this is from water, but from the process used to join the wire together. The copper on the wire was still like new on either side of the factory connector, so I don't think water was the issue. Maybe the wrong solder was used in the manufacture of the harness.

Here is a pic of the repair after I soldered in a splice and used shrink wrap. Whole job took about 30 min.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

gswan · 08-29-2009, 12:16 AM

I have the opposite I can use the lock in both doors, remote, and the back.
But it will not unlock form the drivers door. Took the switch out and jumped the wires
and it only locked.
I can unlock it from the passenger door, remote, and the back.
I fixed the wires for the lock
any help?

gswan · 08-29-2009, 12:49 AM

From Key pad it locks and unlocks

budwich · 08-29-2009, 08:37 AM

Its most likely the same problem as described in detail in these posts.... look at the pictures and schematics and follow the wiring to the same place. OF course, the other likely culprit is a break at the door post.

Velvis · 09-04-2009, 02:26 PM

Does the Sport (2 Door) have the wires running down the drivers side like the above photos as well?

02-18-2007, 12:30 PM	#1
gtgillis Wannabe Elite Explorer Spring, TX 99 XLT Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 5 Vehicle Specs	Door Lock Problem The power door locks in my 1999 XLT will not lock using the switches on the driver or passenger doors. Strangely, I can open the back hatch and use the power lock switch there to lock and unlock the doors. Since I can lock and unlock from the back I am ruling out the actuators and relays leaving only the lock switches or wiring. I am leaning toward the problem being a broken wire since driver and passenger lock switches act the same way. Comment? Suggestions? Does anyone have a schematic of the driver door wiring? Regards, Greg Last edited by gtgillis; 02-18-2007 at 12:57 PM.

02-22-2007, 08:39 PM	#3
JIGAWHAAT Wannabe Elite Explorer Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 1,162 Vehicle Specs	Subscribing I just encountered the same problem. If I figure it out before you do I will post what was wrong with mine here. __________________ MY MARTIN TRUEX FORUM

02-22-2007, 08:46 PM	#4
Gatorblazer Baby on the Way! Moody, AL Looking for another SUV Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 768 Vehicle Specs	Ok, try this 1. Always check for fuses and grounds, as they are the most common faults. 2.If you pull the switch from the back, place it in one of the doors locations and test it. If it does not work, then you know that it is wiring. (Take what you know works and try to eliminate it from your problem. Taking a switch from the door and putting it in the back area will also do this). 3. Take a look at the harnesses inside of the door. See if you can find anything that just looks weird like burns, buildup, shorts. At this point I would also clean the harness plugs just to be sure. If non of these are not the problems, then it may be in the main harness. Thats just a matter of looking as well __________________ Remember, some people are alive simply because it is illegal to shoot them. www.birminghambassclub.net

05-10-2007, 10:46 AM	#8
SN95GT50 Wannabe Elite Explorer 97 Mountaineer AWD Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 41 Vehicle Specs	Can you buy just the lock switch from the dealer? Or, is the window switches and lock a single unit? How much is a new lock switch? John __________________ 1995 Mustang GT (Stock ) 1997 Mercury Mountaineer AWD 302

05-16-2007, 12:43 PM	#11
gtgillis Wannabe Elite Explorer Spring, TX 99 XLT Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 5 Vehicle Specs	Solution Found I spent about 3 hours trouble shooting this problem and found the problem to be a splice that was corroded. The splice is located under the trim of the driver side rear door on my XLT. The reason the splice corroded is there was some water in the channel with the wiring harness. I cut off the corroded ends of the wires, soldered them all together and heatshrunk them to protect them from moisture. Now my doors lock and unlock. I am still looking for the source of the water in the wiring harness channel. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

02-22-2007, 08:01 PM	#2
Medic 19 Wannabe Elite Explorer Novato CA 2000 Eddie Bauer Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 5 Vehicle Specs	I have been searching for some help with this issue myself. for me it is only the driver's doorswitch (locking only) that is not functioning. I swapped driver-passenger switches and neither will work in the driver's door but both work in the passenger side. I find it very strange that a 00' EB 4.0 with 55k mi has a wire/wires or connection that is failing. Anyone have any short cuts on where to look first? Known trouble spots?

02-24-2007, 05:06 PM	#5
budwich Wannabe Elite Explorer Ottawa, Ont 96 XL Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 2,071 Vehicle Specs	Does your remote work (ie. lock the doors)? Your problem is basically a broken PK/V wire going towards the lock relay in the back cargo panel (drivers side). If the remote works then your problem (with the wire) is closer to a splice... if its a four door, near the passenger door column, if two door near the left rear speaker area. If the remote doesn't lock either, then the problem is likely closer to the lock relay in the cargo panel.

03-24-2007, 10:02 AM	#7
slpdave Wannabe Elite Explorer Lenoir City, Tennessee 2000 XLT Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 326 Vehicle Specs	If you have a Volt/Ohm meter use and exacto to trace through the wires (put one end on the plug on the master control panel pop the trim out of the inside body panel (between the fender and the E-brake pedal, that will give you full access to the wireing harness. Touch one lead to the back of the master control panel, touch the other to an exacto blade or needle pirceing through the insulator to the contuctor on the same wire inside. using the Ohm setting it should read an almost perfect short (0 ohms) if it reads over 100 ohms you probably have a bad wire, do this with the key out and the vehicle powered down. to check for voltage put on lead on ground (any bare metal surface should work or the big black wire going to the master control panel. with your meter set to read volts touch the other to one contact press button is there any voltage? push button the other way, is there any voltage there. with windows it is a + voltage is one direction a - voltage is the other. I found a broken wire inside the harness doing it this way. be sure to use a heavy gauge multifillament wire to replace the piece that is broken and insulate everything properly. DO NOT USE SOLID CORE WIRE to repair the amperage will burn the wire up if you do. David

05-14-2007, 04:05 PM	#9
Medic 19 Wannabe Elite Explorer Novato CA 2000 Eddie Bauer Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 5 Vehicle Specs	You should be able to get at least the lock switch separate. I know that they are interchangable from driver to passenger, that is how I knew it was a wiring problem and not the switch.

05-16-2007, 04:17 AM	#10
AltimateX Wannabe Elite Explorer Wisconsin 97 XLT Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 20 Vehicle Specs	That just started happening to me too about two weeks ago. Really a nuisance.

02-24-2008, 12:11 PM	#13
Andy94SC Wannabe Elite Explorer Fenton, MI 1999 Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 21 Vehicle Specs	Found it, at the rear corner of the drivers rear door opening. Very small, abour 18g pink and yellow wires. One from the front of vehicle meets three from the rear. It looks OK. Covered in heatshrink, and also sealed with glue. all the wires are held tight in place. However, cut off the heat shrink, and it fell apart... Soldered everything back together and it is all working now. PITA though, there is not any extra length to work with, and it is 20 Deg F outside...

06-07-2008, 10:50 PM	#14
heysimon Wannabe Elite Explorer Minneapolis MN 98 Eddie Bauer Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	Fixed Mine!!! This drove me nuts for a year!! If it wasn't for the photos , I would still be working on it. Thank You!!!

07-10-2008, 09:24 PM	#15
FirstFordEver Wannabe Elite Explorer Columbus, OH '99 XLT and '05 XLT Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 12 Vehicle Specs	This thread certainly pointed me in the right direction. My son's '99 XLT was doing the exact same thing. Kinda goofy the locks "locked" from the cargo area button, but would not lock from the door buttons or remote. "Unlock" worked fine. Anyway, for the "a man has gotta know his limitations" dept, I took mine to the dealer today. They were well familiar with this issue and they actually located (4) broken splices in the wire...they wondered how it could "lock" at all. The replaced the entire length of the wire, not just a new splice(s) and re-solder. Just so you know "how much"...3.0 hrs labor @ $80/hr = $240. It's done and done right.

07-21-2009, 05:11 PM	#16
bluestream1 Wannabe Elite Explorer Waterloo Ontario 2000 XLT 4.0 SOHC 4X4 Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 332 Vehicle Specs	I had the same problem, and thanks to this tread I was able to fix it. Mine was corroded in the connector that joins the one pink/yellow wire to three. It looked fine from the outside, but was powder inside. I don't think this is from water, but from the process used to join the wire together. The copper on the wire was still like new on either side of the factory connector, so I don't think water was the issue. Maybe the wrong solder was used in the manufacture of the harness. Here is a pic of the repair after I soldered in a splice and used shrink wrap. Whole job took about 30 min. [IMG][/IMG] Last edited by bluestream1; 07-22-2009 at 07:48 PM. Reason: Spelling

08-29-2009, 12:16 AM	#17
gswan Wannabe Elite Explorer Hudson, Iowa 1997 Mercury Mountaineer Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 5 Vehicle Specs	I have the opposite I can use the lock in both doors, remote, and the back. But it will not unlock form the drivers door. Took the switch out and jumped the wires and it only locked. I can unlock it from the passenger door, remote, and the back. I fixed the wires for the lock any help? Last edited by gswan; 08-29-2009 at 12:18 AM. Reason: spelling

08-29-2009, 12:49 AM	#18
gswan Wannabe Elite Explorer Hudson, Iowa 1997 Mercury Mountaineer Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 5 Vehicle Specs	From Key pad it locks and unlocks

08-29-2009, 08:37 AM	#19
budwich Wannabe Elite Explorer Ottawa, Ont 96 XL Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 2,071 Vehicle Specs	Its most likely the same problem as described in detail in these posts.... look at the pictures and schematics and follow the wiring to the same place. OF course, the other likely culprit is a break at the door post.

09-04-2009, 02:26 PM	#20
Velvis Wannabe Elite Explorer Medfield, MA 1996 Explorer Sport Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 21 Vehicle Specs	Does the Sport (2 Door) have the wires running down the drivers side like the above photos as well?