Bathroom remodel..

[msmith65]

Originally Posted by tdavis

Yea, what's interesting is just how cheap those mats are. The thermostat almost costs more than the mat for the main bath!

I used the Warm Tiles thermostat (wouldn't know how to substitute, really) but installed another company's high-amperage timer that was dramatically less expensive.

[tdavis]

So far, I've busted out concrete, removed and replaced the rubber caps on a waste pipe.. It was supposed to be have a clean out cap, not a rubber cap with a band clamp that couldn't be removed..

I also moved down into the ground, and added a cover to another clean out that stuck 6" out of the ground (which was not glued together. )

Today, I started pulling down the kitchen so I can start on re-wiring the house, and found a problem..

Years ago, they removed a 4x4 post that supported the beam across the ceiling, and replaced it with a 2x4... ok, but come on guys, you could of at least nailed the 2x4 in place.

They also removed several other 2x4's, and chopped holes in the header plate. Great, now I've got to figure out how to fix THAT. I am open to suggestions on to fix this.

[Tbars4]

...structural framing i only have a little over 30 yrs. of...send me a couple more pics...your first probem i see is your top plates have been cut out by the other trades...you are going to have to make chases for the ducts, etc...you are going to have to replace the top plates and lap properly and depending on your lo-cal, a bit of hardware is going to be involved starting with at least a hd5, maybe a couple 1" diagonal let in's, and i am curious as what they are going to call for beam hardware as i don't even see any strap material...
...just thinking out loud but if you have already had a pre construction walk with your local inspector, i would not be surprised if you get to the end of the job and he ask you for the stamped structural engineering for your fix's...

[Turdle]

That wall is a mees for sure--just scratching my head here--

notch the beam where the green is--use a 2 piece header joining it at the beam--

the duct on the left is a mess--you need to move it--

You gotta love the old "balloon frame" houses huh?

I swear my house had no 2 studs spaced equally--

[Tbars4]

...in calif and most states he will definately not be allowed to notch the beam for two reason's...first, he would definately need structural calcs when it is spotted and second, the whole beam will count at it's smallest height which is at bearing area with a minumum of 2" of bearing, say it is a 6x14 now, notched only for the top plates, it is already calculated as a 6x11 for it's whole length....the size of that beam alone will definately draw any inspectors eye...

[Turdle]

Well whatever you do, that cabinet is going to have to come out--

could he use jack studs to support the ends--still have a 2 piece header?

[Tbars4]

...no, the reason being it would be a hinge point...california's codes do to seismic activity are second only to dade county florida...i would say the easiest would be to pay for the structural engineering and i personally would prefer not to say that but it's true...if he does a fix on his own there is a high chance for it to have to be documented with a stamp in his permit file...there are beam hangers, hold down's, and shear i could suggest on this but again, a stamp is all they want to see...
...if he was to simple fix it and the inspector doesn't catch it, he could maybe put in double king studs on each side with, if it is a 6x beam, put a 6x post in...the tricky part is if the inspector is a hardware nut as most are, that's when it starts costing and what you did may be a waiste of time...

[tdavis]

The plan is to go to the city next week, take some pictures, and talk to an inspector. I need to clear more out to see just how far the damage is. The overhead beams are 4x6's, with the 6' in the vertical direction.

That wall also goes up higher on the other side, and holds up the garage roof.

It's not 100% fubar'd, but it's messed up good.

The vent line goes - it's too small, and in the wrong location.

The wiring is also a joke - yea, there is ground wire - it's separate and like 18ga thick. Thankfully, I'm doing all new wiring.

[tdavis]

It helps any, here is where the two missing studs should be.. one is cut down, the other is missing outright.

[Tbars4]

...i sincerely wish you the best of luck and remember, your inspector is the nicest guy on earth and you would do anything to make him happy

[tdavis]

Originally Posted by tbars4

...in calif and most states he will definately not be allowed to notch the beam for two reason's...first, he would definately need structural calcs when it is spotted and second, the whole beam will count at it's smallest height which is at bearing area with a minumum of 2" of bearing, say it is a 6x14 now, notched only for the top plates, it is already calculated as a 6x11 for it's whole length....the size of that beam alone will definately draw any inspectors eye...

too bad they didn't do that in 1959..



BTW, the ceiling you see.. is also the roof. There is no crawl space/attic space in this house.

[tdavis]

All is not lost. I found tonight that upper half is framed in - which you can't see in those pictures, and was covered by insulation.

Also, a gas pipe is in the wrong place on the ceiling, so I'm screwed for putting a vent through the roof in that area. I've measured, and found that I can get 90's and 10x3.5" fittings in that area, so the one hole stays.. the other gets fixed, along with a some simpson ties, pl glue, screws, and a couple of 2x4's.

[tdavis]

Gack.

The more I look, the more I just hate all the options to fix this, except for one..

At this moment, I'm leaning towards re-framing about 6 ft of that wall. There is a beam on the other side of that wall, that holds up the roof - and it's currently unsupported by this hack job. The dry wall is only 1/2" thick - and it's a garage wall, which means they really want to see 5/8" drywall on it. The garage inside door frame is also messed up, so that needs replacing. Also, one of the 2x4's is bulging in pretty good, and either needs shaving or replacement.

I also need to run a at least a 3.25x10 square duct or 6" round duct for the range hood in this area. The hole in the plate is correctly sized, but in the wrong area. The roof has a gas line directly in line where the 6" round would exit. Not good. Other choice is to go through the wall, and go up on the garage side, which currently is the best choice.

It's looking to be easier, better, but not cheaper to take it apart, reframe, and then put up 5/8" drywall.

[Tbars4]

...i am sorry you have to deal with this mess...this is the main reason why homeowners do not understand why something so inexpensive can get out of hand so quickly...
...for anyone wanting to venture into remodeling their home i always suggest they watch the movie, "the money pit" with tom hanks before they start...i have seen about every senerial over the years, from both sides, the contractor, and the homeowners...it's a must see tom...

[tdavis]

Watching Holmes on Homes on cable is depressing enough.

He finds the craziest stuff. I see things and I say to myself - "I hope I don't find anything like that!".. Of course, I've found unglued DWV, piss poor plumbing, structure, "true" vs. "level" problems (HA!), electrical..

The good news is the bad news is almost all found..

[tdavis]

So, I got the bottom of the top plate out, cut some stuff out of the way, pulled out some of the hacked up 2x4's, add a joist hanger and some steel, and lots of 3" screws, and ended up with the attached picture.

Hopefully, that will make the inspector happy (I think I might have open the other side up and add metal/screws there too..)

[Tbars4]

...just a heads up...simpson is the industry standard on hardware and they spec what fasteners to use with the hardware....screws are not accepted unless they pass simpson recomendation for their hardware....the screws do not have what they call "sheer strength" ....an inspector will spot that....you can pick up a simpson book at a hardware store that sells simpson, and if you look up the pice you are installing it will have fastener specs...for example, it would probably call for #10 nails for the installation, length would be 1 1/4"-1-1/2" perhaps....and you will at least need to add some a35's both sides...

[tdavis]

An update.. of course, Mr. Negative (tbars) will have something bad to say..



Got the replacement windows. Window for kitchen was easy - the other two are much more difficult. The main front window appears to be head in such a way, that alot of the front of the house has to come apart.. So, I'm now looking for a new front door since it's messed up anyway.

Been working on the plumbing, electrical - got a sub panel in now, and all the old crap ripped out of the old main panel. The way this house was wired.. oh boy.

Next up, wiring the kitchen and master bath, plus prep for the rest of the house re-wiring, and installation of the rear french doors.

[Tbars4]

...i promise i won't say anything....

[Rick]

Where are the French Doors being installed?

Man, your bathroom remodel took on a life of it's own