Need Help from the Pros w/ Cruise, Horn, Airbag...

Okay, so I'm going to apologize upfront to the seasoned pro's for the oh so girly descriptions I'm sure to give in this post. I'm Venessa, 26, and a 99 ranger owner. I haven't driven her much yet I mostly like to admire her loveliness. I know, I'm a freak but I just LOVE Fords, especially Rangers so having one in my driveway is heaven. So I bought her with 115k miles she now has a smidge over 116k but come next fall she'll be making daily 120 mile commutes to get me to and from school. I have a few "issues" that I'm trying to work out so I'd love any tips, tricks, or detailed chick friendly how to's. I'm not a mechanic by any means but I can figure just about any thing out with some basic instruction. I had the dreaded phantom wiper issue which I resolved by reading posts here and replacing the multi function switch. So here's the stuff I need to fix.
1.) Cruise Control doesn't work. Buttons don't even depress.
2.) Horn doesn't work
3.) Wiper fluid doesn't spray
4.) Can't turn off passenger airbag
5.) Cig. Lighter committed suicide

So the cruise control and the horn are seemingly related issues according to various posts on the site and the clock spring appears to be the culprit. I just wanted to see if the fact that there is no buttony action in the buttons has anything to do with anything first. I also would LOVE it if someone could direct me to a picture of what the clock spring looks like and maybe some instructions. The wiper fluid is in the tank so it's not leaking but it doesn't spray. I can't figure out for the life of me how to turn the passenger side airbag off. I put the key in turn it to off and nothing happens. It just goes back to on position. Am I missing something here? And the cig. lighter has up and died on me. I pushed it in one day and the whole thing fell inside. LOL I took off the facing and the radio and all that good stuff and saw the two wires that are plugged into the back but couldn't figure out if it really is just the little plastic ring on the front that keeps it in place or if there is something I'm missing in the back that's supposed to make it sturdy. Any help at all would be really appreciated. I'm determined to make this truck a bad ass one project at a time.

First, yes, the plastic ring is all that holds the cigarette lighter in to the best of my knowledge. As far as the cruise and horn issues, I don't know much about the airbag system in the steering wheel other than you need to disconnect the battery for a while before you start digging into it to make sure it doesn't accidentally deploy on you! When you take the front off of the steering wheel to look for the spring, (screws are on the back side of the wheel) you should be able to make sense of it when you see the assembly. As far as the washer fluid is concerned, I would start by checking the fuses to make sure one isn't blown, then the wires and connections, and finally,(if all else fails) by replacing the pump on the bottom of the fluid reservoir. You should be able to pick one up at your local auto parts store pretty cheap. Good luck! Also, check to make sure nothing has been spilled on the steering wheel(coffee, soda, etc.) that might have "glued" the buttons in place. A tooth brush with a little Armor-all will take care of that.

Puller being used to remove the steering wheel:





The white clockspring in this picture is exposed after the steering wheel has been removed. It is basically an enclosed spool of plastic ribbon with several conductive bands. It winds and unwinds to allow the steering wheel to turn while providing individual electrical paths to the various functions in the wheel - horn, airbag, speed control and illumination. There are usually 2 additional conductors in a cruise control clockspring (six instead of four, IIRC). It is CRITICAL that the clockspring is correctly "timed" to the front steering position. If not, it will snap or fail due to kinking or abrasion.

Okay, the clockspring is juuuust a little more complicated than I thought it was. Still dooable, though.

Bob, That is EXACTLY what I needed to see. Thank you so much!

Help

okay so I'm finally getting around to doing the clockspring job and I have a problem. The new one is snapped in on the three holes and two clips with all the little switches connected but something is wrong. It was a bit tough to get lined up right since there wasn't much slack because I connected the pieces on the underside before putting this plastic round piece on. While I was pushing it on I felt it kinda slip. It was like the two plastic pieces top and bottom seperated and the inside turned or maybe unraveled. *I'm SO sorry for these completely amateur explanations* I snapped it back together and put it on. When I finally did get it on it was lined up with the "top" on top and the yellow tab still in place but It's on the wrong side. Before I took off the wheel the yellow wire went through the right side and now it's on the left. Can someone please tell me what I did wrong and how to be fix it to be POSITIVE it's on right so I can finish this job. I've heard that they will snap if you don't have it on right and turn the wheel too much to one side or the other. Here is a pic of what it looks like now


and one from before the wheel came off

Here's some info on how to recenter the clockspring if it gets out of position. To use these instructions, the front wheels must be pointing straight ahead.

A new clockspring is supplied in a centralized position and held there with a key.

Remove the key from the clockspring, holding the rotor in its centralized position.

Do not allow the clockspring rotor to turn.


Vehicles needing clockspring recentering

WARNING:
Incorrect centralization may result in premature component failure. If in doubt when centralizing the clockspring, repeat the centralizing procedure. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.

CAUTION:
Make sure the road wheels are in the straight-ahead position.


Note:
If a clockspring has rotated out of center, follow through with this step.

Centralize the clockspring.

1 Hold the clockspring outer housing stationary.

2 Depress the clockspring locking tab to release the rotor.

3 CAUTION:
Overturning will destroy the clockspring. The internal ribbon wire acts as the stop and can be broken from its internal connection.
While holding the clockspring locking tab in the released position, turn the rotor counterclockwise, carefully feeling for the ribbon wire to run out of length and a slight resistance to be felt. Stop turning at this point.

4 While holding the clockspring locking tab in the released position, turn the clockspring clockwise approximately 2.25 turns. This is the center point of the clockspring.

Release the clockspring locking tab. Do not allow the rotor to turn from this position.


(Note:
Slight turning of the clockspring rotor is allowable for alignment purposes to the steering column.)

Install the clockspring onto the steering column.

With the flats of the clockspring aligned to the flats of the steering column, slide the clockspring onto the steering column.

Engage the upper and side retaining tabs.

Engage the lower clockspring retaining clip.

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Venessa- i just looked at a spare steering column in the garage and I now remember that the steering column axle has two flats (top and bottom) that engage the center hub of the clockspring. Could be that you have it 1/2 turn off or 1 1/2 turn off or whatever and that's why the yellow harness is 180 degrees out. I would follow the recentering instructions above to get you back to square one. Then install it on the column with the harness in the correct orientation. Just be sure not to let it slip from the correct position before it's in place.

Okay thanks that helps a lot. I'll hit it again tomorrow. You guys are the best!

Now What Arrrrg!!!

Okay so I put the clockspring on and got it all back together and tested it. Only one thing was different. The passenger airbag off light illuminates now where it never used to before. It turns on for a few seconds then goes out. So here's my thought process and someone please correct me if I sound retarded. The airbags go into the clockspring on their own and they seem to be working so YAY. The horn switches on either side and cruise buttons on either side go in together via a thick black cluster of wires that wraps around the back and ultimately plugs in next to the one that goes out to the airbag. So if neither horn nor cruise are working does that mean it's the big black wire that's bad maybe? and if so can anyone tell me what it's called so I can buy one. Also, I know there is a relay for the horn but is there one for the cruise control? I didn't see that in the list of relay labels in the manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The horn relay is in the distribution box on the driver side of the engine bay. The speed control does not have its own relay but it does use power from the horn relay circuit for the "ON" function. It is conceivable that a bad relay or fuse 10 in the distribution box could take out both the speed control and the horn. On the other hand, the horn itself is not noted for stellar reliability.

For safety reasons, the speed control has multiple cancel functions: OFF button, deactivation switch, Brake Pedal Position switch, and Clutch Pedal Position switch (manual only). So, a malfunction in any of these can kill the speed control.

You can run a quick, engine-off diagnostic on the speed control that may help pinpoint a problem with the hardware:

WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator lamp on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that the speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.

Note:
If the ON switch is not pressed within five seconds after entering diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.

Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RSM (resume), CST (coast) and SET/ACCEL.

The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is pressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the light goes out for the previous switch.

After all five speed control switches complete the sequence, the indicator lamp will flash to indicate a pass or fail:

— 1 flash - Test passed (with dynamic throttle pull).

— 2 flashes - BPP switch is defective, circuit is defective or brake pedal is applied; CPP switch is defective, circuit is defective or clutch pedal is applied.

— 3 flashes - Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.

— 4 flashes - Vehicle speed sensor is out of range or not connected.

l Immediately after the static test has passed, the speed control servo will then perform a dynamic test automatically by actuating the throttle lever from 1 mm to 10 mm of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the actuator cable, verify the correct connection of the actuator cable to the throttle lever, and make sure the throttle returns back to the idle position.

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Didn't you say in the original post that the cruise buttons do not seem to depress correctly? Is that still a problem?

yes they don't depress at all It feels like the "on" one wants to a little bit but it's convex so that could be deceptive. They're just completely rigid and don't give way at all when you press on them.

nessa said:

yes they don't depress at all It feels like the "on" one wants to a little bit but it's convex so that could be deceptive. They're just completely rigid and don't give way at all when you press on them.

Click to expand...

I've never heard of that happening but it doesn't sound right. I would go to a car dealer and compare the feel of the buttons on a 95~2003 Ranger or 95~2001 Explorer to see if that could be the problem.

Today I switched out some fuses and noticed that now my buttons depress. They still don't work... but they are pushable at least. I know... I'm sadly comforted with the smallest bit of progress. So still no horn, airbag light, or cruise function but while I was in the fuse box under the hood I noticed that one of the Very large colored fuses, one of the small colored fuses, and two of the black boxy ones are missing. I checked the diagram and verified that they weren't the ones that said "not used" they actually do have numbers so I went to replace the colored ones and they won't stay. It looks like the metal clip that is meant to hold them in the slot is missing. I have no freaking clue what to do! I've never had this problem before. Do I have to replace the whole box?

The black boxy ones that you describe are probably relays. As I mentioned before, the horn relay is also involved in the cruise function. Check the diagram in your owner's manual to see if the horn relay is missing. If you don't have a manual, they are available online:

http://www.genuineservice.com/genuineservice/en/default?page=Home

I had already checked all the fuses related to the horn according to the manual and nope the horn relay isn't one of the one's that's missing. of the black boxes it's the #10 and the #8 and those can just pop in but I'm also missing a big colored one in the first row. #3 which should be a 50 and a mini fuse which should be a 30 but there are no clips to hold them in.

#3 in the distribution box is used only for 4WABS which was optional in 99. Chances are that your truck has the standard RABS and not 4WABS. So, not having that fuse is not a problem. As far as the other location goes, if there is no clip in that location, then chances are that your truck never had a fuse there.

oh okay well that's a relief. I did buy a new number 7 of the black ones that is listed as the horn relay and nothing changed. So the ones that are missing are 8 and 10 which in my book say they are fog lamp related. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with anything but I'm at a loss for why my airbag, horn, and cruise would still be non functioning after replacing the clockspring. and testing the fuses. Is it possible that it's that black strap of wires that goes behind the airbag connecting the horn and cruise buttons? Here's another question for you... what kind of equipment is required to do diagnostic testing? With all these little things coming up I'm thinking it would probably be helpful to have around so I don't have to dish out 60 bucks everytime I want to check everything.

The foglamp fuses and relays are unrelated to the horn and speed control.

I would go directly to the horn and apply 12v and ground to see if it even works. Then I would try running the speed control diagnostic self test that I quoted in Post #11 above.

You can get a cheap OBDII code puller from Harbor Freight Tools for under $50 but a diagnostic tester that will access modules other than the PCM would be a lot more expensive.

okay I'll give that a go. I was just so fixated on them being related I guess that I didn't really spend much time on the idea that it may just be a coincidence that they went out at the same time.