Overhead console display fix

drummercell · 12-24-2008, 02:25 AM

I just got my 96 explorer and it didnt come with a overhead display. I was wondering if it was possible to add one useing one from another explorer. . . . . I had a jeep before this and i was able to do that but i dont know about this. . .

Frank Hannah · 12-28-2008, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thallarsen

Let me start out by describing my specific overhead display: Mine is in a '99 Explorer Limited with sunroof. The display provides digital compass bearings and temp. The housing also has the two 'spot' lights for driver and passenger.

If yours isn't exactly the same, but similar, I'll bet that the problem is identical to mine. This problem is related to solder failure, similar to the Mach radio display problem.

It's a resistor (or capacitor) that due to considerable heat, eventually loses its soldered contact at the board. You can confirm that this is the culprit by firmly pressing the button, thus putting slight pressure on the board housed inside the display housing. If the display fades in slightly then goes out - or stays on for a few hours/days, then goes back out, you have likely tweaked the board slightly and brought temporary contact to the problematic resistor.

The fix will take less than an hour if you're comfortable with soldering. If you've never soldered before, this may not be a good fix to learn on, because it is such a small component. I suggest finding an electronics guy to resolder the component. It's such a minor job that it shouldn't be much at all.

Anyway, what you'll need:

Torx T-10 and driver.
Soldering iron capable of small soldering repairs
Desoldering braid (I didn't really need it, but for the perfectionist...)
Good solder for small electronic work (silver based?) Radio Shack is a good resource.
Magnifying glass. Preferably the kind with the 'helping hands' alligator clips, in which you can position the glass over the work. You'll need two hands for the solder.

Here are the steps:
1. Remove the overhead console. This is done by pulling back the trim around the sunroof (if equipped) just enough to expose the black tab

This tab holds the rear portion of the console in place when tucked behind the sunroof trim (since I don't know the non-sunroof application, you're on your own here). Mine had some sticky adhesive that keeps the trim in place. The console should drop down slightly at this point.
2. Gently pull on both sides at about the middle of the console. It's held in by two pressure clips. It should pop out of the roof fixture without too much force.

3. Disconnect the two harness connectors (possibly only one if not equipped with a sunroof).

4. Working on a flat surface, remove the Torx screws (11 total for sunroof models). There's no need to remove the two rearmost screws on the black plastic bracket, or the two screws holding the harness plug receptacle (Connector 1 - sunroof models).

5. Lift the black plastic insert housing the light bezel and buttons from the console surround.

The spotlights and temp/compass display board come out as one unit, as they are attached with connectors.

6. Unplug the connector from the white display housing

7. Using a small screwdriver, pry around each of the four retainers that hold the white plastic cover in place over the black bottom housing.

8. After lifting the white plastic cover from the black bottom housing, you'll be able to remove the circuit board with the display glass. Take care not to bend the display glass.

9. Now that you have the board removed, you can identify the failed component. With a magnifying glass, carefully check the integrity and the solders at each end of the resistors labeled "510". This is where I found the failure. Yours is likely at one or both of these. This photo is a closeup. Note that these resistors are only about 1/4" end to end.

10. As you can see, I'm not a master solderer, but it worked. There was one resistor that was clearly broken from it's original solder, but the one next to it wasn't looking too stable, so I resoldered both. These little suckers get pretty hot when the display is operating normally, so make sure that your solder is good. This is where you take your time, and make sure that you have a stable solder at all resoldered points. If it's not such a good solder, it will fail before too long. You can test your repair by plugging in the connector to the board, then plugging that directly to the harness in the car. If you get a display, you've fixed the problem!

11. Reassemble in reverse order. One thing to note, is that the small spotlights' housing have two small tabs that fit into the black 'center' housing that has the buttons, light cover, etc. You'll need to fit the spotlights into the housing first and foremost before reassembling the console.

12. Good Luck!

Although this worked for me and all others who tried it and got back to me, I can't guarantee that it will work for you. So attempt this at your own risk. Please post to the thread to let others know whether this worked for you.

Frank Hannah · 12-28-2008, 02:35 PM

When I removed the circuit board it appears that one of the 510 resisters is missing..It looks as if it fell off for the base has some old solder..Would this be why my composs and temp indicator is not working...Where can I get this repaired..My dealer says a new unit will cost $500...The wires and solder on the only 510 resister look ok to me...

aricanderson · 12-29-2008, 06:35 PM

did anyone figure out the problem for a 95 xlt without a sunroof since the circuit boards are different? The only thing that I noticed that could be wrong with mine is that the lighted display has a burnt spot in one corner. I believe thats the reason its does not work.

scubba.steve · 12-31-2008, 01:08 AM

Great write up!!! I just purchased a 94 Limited. And was wondering why mine wasnt working. My console is slightly diffrent than yours, and i didnt have to remove the sunroof moulding. Instead there were 2 screw's in the garage door compartment. Pulled mine all apart, didnt notice any bunt, or solder marks. Did notice that my led screen was burnt in one corner thou. Can this part be purchased as a single unit? Or do i have to buy the whole console?? Time for me to hit the salvage yard's !!!

*toypaseo* · 12-31-2008, 02:23 PM

scubba.steve, the F150 board I repaired had a burnt corner also, but worked fine with it...

bday_cs · 12-31-2008, 02:42 PM

Great write-up! Thanks a million. Saved me $150+ for new console from dealer. One of my 150 ohm resistors was clearly detached.

Couple other points to add:

1. You should use the same value resistors if you need to replace them.
2. Too much solder can be just as bad as too little... you just need a solid connection. If you get too much on there by accident, use "desoldering braid" to remove it. Available at Radio Shack.
3. Using a small diameter solder makes things MUCH easier. I used .022 diameter. Also available at Radio Shack.
4. Using solder flux will greatly help your solder connection by letting the solder flow easier. "Rosin Soldering Flux" also available at Radio Shack.
5. And I'll just echo the previous comments that a 15-20 watt soldering iron is best. Too much heat will cause the fine traces on the circuit board to lift, and then you'll have a mess. Same applies to reheating the same area over-and-over... try not to resolder the same area too much without letting it cool down completely.

Thanks again!

mgreen6712 · 12-31-2008, 10:54 PM

Thanx for the step by step instructions and pics. I realy appreciate it. I have a 2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer. I just finished and it works great. I seem to have the same trouble with my radio display. I don't have any display at all. Any suggestions? Chances are it is the same situation as with the overhead compass. A resistor needs resoldered. If anyone has an idea or had the same trouble and fixed it please let me know. Thanx again for the info.

scubba.steve · 01-01-2009, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toypaseo

scubba.steve, the F150 board I repaired had a burnt corner also, but worked fine with it...

Maybe i can post a pic of my board in this thread and you can help me decipher it. I sent you a private message

sport4work · 01-23-2009, 03:01 PM

Thallarsen,
I also want to thank you for the info and pictures. I found one of the "501" resisters had completely come unsolderd on one end. After a quick trip to radio shack for a $10.00 dollar soldering iron, The one I have have in my shop was to big, did the resolder, checked the display before reinstalling and low and behold I'm back in business. I do have one question. Does the display need to be recalibrated?

96V8Xploder · 01-24-2009, 06:24 AM

My display always reads 140F/60C.I can also turn it on at any time with the key out.I can also roll my power windows down and turn the heater/ac blower on.Does anyone have any idea for a fix? Thanks

aricanderson · 01-25-2009, 05:30 PM

ok heres a pic of the console that i have for a 95 xlt without sunroof. I have looked over the board. Has anyone found a common problem with this board or could the problem be somewhere else?

Thanks
aric anderson

scubba.steve · 01-25-2009, 07:14 PM

Thats the same board in my 1994 limited... i inspected it pretty good, didnt have a magnifying glass though. Everything appeared normal. Mine is still not working

aricanderson · 01-25-2009, 07:56 PM

quick update. i hooked up 12volts to the overhead unit and the display works so now i'm going to check my ground and fused #10 10Amp hot in run. I believe the problem is in the power coming in. I'll let you know what i find tommorrow. Or maybe its still in the unit itself. I decided to test the board with 12volts on it and i bet you that the problem lies in the ribbon that runs from the board to the display. Every time i touch the ribbon my display goes on and off.

backwater83 · 01-27-2009, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aricanderson

did anyone figure out the problem for a 95 xlt without a sunroof since the circuit boards are different? The only thing that I noticed that could be wrong with mine is that the lighted display has a burnt spot in one corner. I believe thats the reason its does not work.

I had the same problem. My display was also dark in the corner. It was more dim than it should be also, when it worked at all. i have a ford f-350 and my display circuit board is different as well. The diodes on mine were marked 610. I could see that one was burnt, even though it still looked connected. I resoldered that joint, problem solved.

just look at whatever board you have and look carefully at the diodes. You'll see the problem.

Good luck

backwater83 · 01-27-2009, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sport4work

Thallarsen,
I also want to thank you for the info and pictures. I found one of the "501" resisters had completely come unsolderd on one end. After a quick trip to radio shack for a $10.00 dollar soldering iron, The one I have have in my shop was to big, did the resolder, checked the display before reinstalling and low and behold I'm back in business. I do have one question. Does the display need to be recalibrated?

You don't have to calibrate the MPG, miles til empty, or temp. If your compass is off by a little, you can calibrate that by driving in a circle 4 or 5 times. That will calibrate the compass.

omgyouresexy · 01-28-2009, 05:36 PM

Thanks for this thread man. When I bought my Ex, the compass/thermostat display was bad. The guy I bought it from said the dealer told him it would be a couple hundred to replace. Undoubtedly, this helped devalue the car a little bit. After resoldering the resistor, works A-OK. Thanks to the OP for finding/sharing this.

jlrohio · 02-01-2009, 12:51 PM

As one poster mentioned, in Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge vehicles you can take an overhead console (junk yard) from a vehicle with more options in it and place it in a lesser optioned vehicle with no problem, as the wiring and computers/sensors are all the same in the vehicles.

Can this be done in Ford Explorer's?

For example, can I go to the junkyard and start grabbing parts from an Eddie Bauer/Limited Model and place them in a basic XL Explorer? (same/similar year model)??

How about seats? Can I upgrade to leather seats with electronic seat adjustments, etc??

Thanks in advance for any answers - I'll also keep searching around these forums - hopefully I'll find the right place where modifications/upgrades are located.

tbjr8257 · 02-11-2009, 07:39 PM

perfect. i found the first resistor solder was broken. works great now. directions were very acurate and pics helped with eveything.
99 explorer with sunroof.

tbjr8257 · 02-11-2009, 07:54 PM

just to follow up if your interested. the solder didn't over heat and seperate. it appears from the vibrations in the truck the solder joints crack over time or if the original solder was to thin from the begining. which all manufacturers do to save money. if you look close you will see a jagged edge as if it cracked. when it overheats the edges will roll over and leave a big gap. just an FYI.

12-28-2008, 02:35 PM	#43
Frank Hannah Wannabe Elite Explorer Shelby, North Carolina 98 XLT Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 2 Vehicle Specs	0verhead consule--98 Ford Explorer XLT When I removed the circuit board it appears that one of the 510 resisters is missing..It looks as if it fell off for the base has some old solder..Would this be why my composs and temp indicator is not working...Where can I get this repaired..My dealer says a new unit will cost $500...The wires and solder on the only 510 resister look ok to me...

12-29-2008, 06:35 PM	#44
aricanderson Wannabe Elite Explorer tally, fl 04 XLT Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 15 Vehicle Specs	other boards without sunroofs did anyone figure out the problem for a 95 xlt without a sunroof since the circuit boards are different? The only thing that I noticed that could be wrong with mine is that the lighted display has a burnt spot in one corner. I believe thats the reason its does not work. Last edited by aricanderson; 12-29-2008 at 06:39 PM. Reason: oh thought of something else

12-31-2008, 02:23 PM	#46
toypaseo Flunked daycare outside shovelling snow ................ 96 XLT ™ Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 5,306 Vehicle Specs	scubba.steve, the F150 board I repaired had a burnt corner also, but worked fine with it... __________________ Kent - 1996 XLT - Hypertech Programmer, Gibson Catback, K&N FIPK, Alpine V12 MRV-100M, 8" round 2ohm Kicker Solobaric 1992 Toyota Paseo - Tein Super Street coilovers, Whiteline swaybars 22MM(F) 20MM(R), Prothane endlinks & mounts, VVR poly control arm bushings, K&N drop-in, Dynomax Ultraflo, Gibson stainless tip, Pirelli Winter Carving Edge(F) Kumho HP4 716(R) on steelies

12-31-2008, 10:54 PM	#48
mgreen6712 Wannabe Elite Explorer Crawfordsville, IN. 2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 14 Vehicle Specs	Overhead Console Fix Thanx for the step by step instructions and pics. I realy appreciate it. I have a 2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer. I just finished and it works great. I seem to have the same trouble with my radio display. I don't have any display at all. Any suggestions? Chances are it is the same situation as with the overhead compass. A resistor needs resoldered. If anyone has an idea or had the same trouble and fixed it please let me know. Thanx again for the info.

01-25-2009, 07:56 PM	#54
aricanderson Wannabe Elite Explorer tally, fl 04 XLT Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 15 Vehicle Specs	quick update. i hooked up 12volts to the overhead unit and the display works so now i'm going to check my ground and fused #10 10Amp hot in run. I believe the problem is in the power coming in. I'll let you know what i find tommorrow. Or maybe its still in the unit itself. I decided to test the board with 12volts on it and i bet you that the problem lies in the ribbon that runs from the board to the display. Every time i touch the ribbon my display goes on and off. Last edited by aricanderson; 01-25-2009 at 10:21 PM. Reason: more to add

12-24-2008, 02:25 AM	#41
drummercell Wannabe Elite Explorer harrisville, wv 1996 ford eplorer Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	I just got my 96 explorer and it didnt come with a overhead display. I was wondering if it was possible to add one useing one from another explorer. . . . . I had a jeep before this and i was able to do that but i dont know about this. . .

12-31-2008, 01:08 AM	#45
scubba.steve Wannabe Elite Explorer Knoxville Tennessee 1994 Limited Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 52 Vehicle Specs	Great write up!!! I just purchased a 94 Limited. And was wondering why mine wasnt working. My console is slightly diffrent than yours, and i didnt have to remove the sunroof moulding. Instead there were 2 screw's in the garage door compartment. Pulled mine all apart, didnt notice any bunt, or solder marks. Did notice that my led screen was burnt in one corner thou. Can this part be purchased as a single unit? Or do i have to buy the whole console?? Time for me to hit the salvage yard's !!!

12-31-2008, 02:42 PM	#47
bday_cs Wannabe Elite Explorer '99 XLT Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	Great write-up! Thanks a million. Saved me $150+ for new console from dealer. One of my 150 ohm resistors was clearly detached. Couple other points to add: 1. You should use the same value resistors if you need to replace them. 2. Too much solder can be just as bad as too little... you just need a solid connection. If you get too much on there by accident, use "desoldering braid" to remove it. Available at Radio Shack. 3. Using a small diameter solder makes things MUCH easier. I used .022 diameter. Also available at Radio Shack. 4. Using solder flux will greatly help your solder connection by letting the solder flow easier. "Rosin Soldering Flux" also available at Radio Shack. 5. And I'll just echo the previous comments that a 15-20 watt soldering iron is best. Too much heat will cause the fine traces on the circuit board to lift, and then you'll have a mess. Same applies to reheating the same area over-and-over... try not to resolder the same area too much without letting it cool down completely. Thanks again!

01-23-2009, 03:01 PM	#50
sport4work Wannabe Elite Explorer Stevensville, Maryland '01 Explorer Sport Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	Thallarsen, I also want to thank you for the info and pictures. I found one of the "501" resisters had completely come unsolderd on one end. After a quick trip to radio shack for a $10.00 dollar soldering iron, The one I have have in my shop was to big, did the resolder, checked the display before reinstalling and low and behold I'm back in business. I do have one question. Does the display need to be recalibrated?

01-24-2009, 06:24 AM	#51
96V8Xploder Wannabe Elite Explorer SD,CA 96 XLT 2WD 5.0L Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 64 Vehicle Specs	My display always reads 140F/60C.I can also turn it on at any time with the key out.I can also roll my power windows down and turn the heater/ac blower on.Does anyone have any idea for a fix? Thanks

01-25-2009, 05:30 PM	#52
aricanderson Wannabe Elite Explorer tally, fl 04 XLT Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 15 Vehicle Specs	ok heres a pic of the console that i have for a 95 xlt without sunroof. I have looked over the board. Has anyone found a common problem with this board or could the problem be somewhere else? Thanks aric anderson

01-25-2009, 07:14 PM	#53
scubba.steve Wannabe Elite Explorer Knoxville Tennessee 1994 Limited Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 52 Vehicle Specs	Thats the same board in my 1994 limited... i inspected it pretty good, didnt have a magnifying glass though. Everything appeared normal. Mine is still not working

01-28-2009, 05:36 PM	#57
omgyouresexy Wannabe Elite Explorer Raleigh, NC '99 Eddie Bauer Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 45 Vehicle Specs	Thanks for this thread man. When I bought my Ex, the compass/thermostat display was bad. The guy I bought it from said the dealer told him it would be a couple hundred to replace. Undoubtedly, this helped devalue the car a little bit. After resoldering the resistor, works A-OK. Thanks to the OP for finding/sharing this. __________________ '99 Explorer EB - 4.0 SOHC

02-01-2009, 12:51 PM	#58
jlrohio Wannabe Elite Explorer Virginia 2011 Ford Explorer XLT Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 41 Vehicle Specs	As one poster mentioned, in Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge vehicles you can take an overhead console (junk yard) from a vehicle with more options in it and place it in a lesser optioned vehicle with no problem, as the wiring and computers/sensors are all the same in the vehicles. Can this be done in Ford Explorer's? For example, can I go to the junkyard and start grabbing parts from an Eddie Bauer/Limited Model and place them in a basic XL Explorer? (same/similar year model)?? How about seats? Can I upgrade to leather seats with electronic seat adjustments, etc?? Thanks in advance for any answers - I'll also keep searching around these forums - hopefully I'll find the right place where modifications/upgrades are located. Last edited by jlrohio; 02-01-2009 at 01:52 PM.

02-11-2009, 07:39 PM	#59
tbjr8257 Wannabe Elite Explorer east stroudsburg, pa 99 xlt Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 9 Vehicle Specs	perfect. i found the first resistor solder was broken. works great now. directions were very acurate and pics helped with eveything. 99 explorer with sunroof.

02-11-2009, 07:54 PM	#60
tbjr8257 Wannabe Elite Explorer east stroudsburg, pa 99 xlt Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 9 Vehicle Specs	just to follow up if your interested. the solder didn't over heat and seperate. it appears from the vibrations in the truck the solder joints crack over time or if the original solder was to thin from the begining. which all manufacturers do to save money. if you look close you will see a jagged edge as if it cracked. when it overheats the edges will roll over and leave a big gap. just an FYI.