Overhead console display fix

[rrush]

The instructions and pictures were great. I HATE plastic wire harness connectors but managed to get it apart without breaking more than one tab. Once apart, found one of the 510 resistors missing. Have to wait now till daylight to search interior of my 01 Sport. If I can't find it, what's the best alternative replacement??

[jon99explorer]

Originally Posted by rrush

Once apart, found one of the 510 resistors missing. Have to wait now till daylight to search interior of my 01 Sport. If I can't find it, what's the best alternative replacement??

Mine was missing one of the 510 resistors, so I bought a package of 68 ohm resistors from Radio Shack & soldered one in.
The resistors I bought had a wire on each end, but it wasn't too difficult to solder it in place.
My unit is still working excellent!

Jon
http://1972vega.wordpress.com/

[Millertime1987]

I had bumped the display back when i did this fix now there are lines going across the display covering up the numbers and compass. Any ideas on how to get these contacts working again?

[rrush]

Originally Posted by rrush

The instructions and pictures were great. I HATE plastic wire harness connectors but managed to get it apart without breaking more than one tab. Once apart, found one of the 510 resistors missing. Have to wait now till daylight to search interior of my 01 Sport. If I can't find it, what's the best alternative replacement??

I went out this morning and found that little resistor within 3 minutes. It was in between the drivers seat and the center console.
This evening, I confirmed I can't solder worth a hoot, but still managed to get it on the board, get everything back together and as of now, the display is working fine. We'll see if it's still there after a couple of good potholes.

Thanks for the excellent instructions!!

[cootiegttr]

Originally Posted by Thallarsen

Let me start out by describing my specific overhead display: Mine is in a '99 Explorer Limited with sunroof. The display provides digital compass bearings and temp. The housing also has the two 'spot' lights for driver and passenger.

If yours isn't exactly the same, but similar, I'll bet that the problem is identical to mine. This problem is related to solder failure, similar to the Mach radio display problem.

It's a resistor (or capacitor) that due to considerable heat, eventually loses its soldered contact at the board. You can confirm that this is the culprit by firmly pressing the button, thus putting slight pressure on the board housed inside the display housing. If the display fades in slightly then goes out - or stays on for a few hours/days, then goes back out, you have likely tweaked the board slightly and brought temporary contact to the problematic resistor.

The fix will take less than an hour if you're comfortable with soldering. If you've never soldered before, this may not be a good fix to learn on, because it is such a small component. I suggest finding an electronics guy to resolder the component. It's such a minor job that it shouldn't be much at all.

Anyway, what you'll need:

1. Torx T-10 and driver.
2. Soldering iron capable of small soldering repairs
3. Desoldering braid (I didn't really need it, but for the perfectionist...)
4. Good solder for small electronic work (silver based?) Radio Shack is a good resource.
5. Magnifying glass. Preferably the kind with the 'helping hands' alligator clips, in which you can position the glass over the work. You'll need two hands for the solder.

Here are the steps:
1. Remove the overhead console. This is done by pulling back the trim around the sunroof (if equipped) just enough to expose the black tab

This tab holds the rear portion of the console in place when tucked behind the sunroof trim (since I don't know the non-sunroof application, you're on your own here). Mine had some sticky adhesive that keeps the trim in place. The console should drop down slightly at this point.
2. Gently pull on both sides at about the middle of the console. It's held in by two pressure clips. It should pop out of the roof fixture without too much force.

3. Disconnect the two harness connectors (possibly only one if not equipped with a sunroof).

4. Working on a flat surface, remove the Torx screws (11 total for sunroof models). There's no need to remove the two rearmost screws on the black plastic bracket, or the two screws holding the harness plug receptacle (Connector 1 - sunroof models).

5. Lift the black plastic insert housing the light bezel and buttons from the console surround.

The spotlights and temp/compass display board come out as one unit, as they are attached with connectors.

6. Unplug the connector from the white display housing

7. Using a small screwdriver, pry around each of the four retainers that hold the white plastic cover in place over the black bottom housing.

8. After lifting the white plastic cover from the black bottom housing, you'll be able to remove the circuit board with the display glass. Take care not to bend the display glass.

9. Now that you have the board removed, you can identify the failed component. With a magnifying glass, carefully check the integrity and the solders at each end of the resistors labeled "510". This is where I found the failure. Yours is likely at one or both of these. This photo is a closeup. Note that these resistors are only about 1/4" end to end.

10. As you can see, I'm not a master solderer, but it worked. There was one resistor that was clearly broken from it's original solder, but the one next to it wasn't looking too stable, so I resoldered both. These little suckers get pretty hot when the display is operating normally, so make sure that your solder is good. This is where you take your time, and make sure that you have a stable solder at all resoldered points. If it's not such a good solder, it will fail before too long. You can test your repair by plugging in the connector to the board, then plugging that directly to the harness in the car. If you get a display, you've fixed the problem!

11. Reassemble in reverse order. One thing to note, is that the small spotlights' housing have two small tabs that fit into the black 'center' housing that has the buttons, light cover, etc. You'll need to fit the spotlights into the housing first and foremost before reassembling the console.

12. Good Luck!

Although this worked for me and all others who tried it and got back to me, I can't guarantee that it will work for you. So attempt this at your own risk. Please post to the thread to let others know whether this worked for you.

Fixed my lady's Explorer today using your instructions. The only issue I had was that I broke the "510" Resistor so I fixed the problem by soldering it all as one piece, and to my surprise it worked. Thanks to this forum I have been able to fix minor things on her Explorer.

[eagles350]

Major score !! Had mine fixed in minutes. Thanks a bunch .

[Abner]

Followed your excellent directions. Sure enough one of the resistors had a broken solder connection. Was able to resolder and am all set. I cant thank you enough.

[LeslieZ]

OMG! what an amazing post! thank you so so much. i've been "lost" for the past year without my overhead console. my husband followed the step by step directions and now i can find my way. i couldn't be more thrilled! it only took about 25 minutes. perfect directions!!!

[lunaka]

Grazie a tutti siete stati fantastici. Grazie dall'Italia.
Thankyou very much at all. You are fantastics. Thankyou form Italy.

[TheBook]

Thanks Thallarsen

We were driving and my wife noticed that the display was out. She said I guess everything will just keep breaking down. We have 99 Explorer and a new one is not in our plans. It seems as if every week something stops working. Did a search and found your link. The instructions are perfect. What took the longest was getting a decent soldering iron. Checked out Harbor Freight, Home Depot and Lowes. Ended up at Radio Shack. Don't waste any time just go to Radio Shack. They have a large variety of irons and also have the helping hands magnifying glass. Got everything for about $25.

Found that both resisters were loose. This was done by using the magnifying glass and screwdriver by lifting up the resister. The resisters are very small and you will need the magnifying glass. Thallarsen must be a electronic expect to have detected the defect. Would have never been able to find the loose connection. Soldered the resisters and reinstalled the unit and got the display back.

Would recommend doing a google search for Soldering. It really helped me. You should be able to get a video showing how to do it right.

My wife and I cannot thank you enough. She felt lost without the temp. Funny how things like that get to be important.

[BlueMystc5]

i have a 99 explorer sport no sunroof and mine has 2 510 resistors opened mine up found one of the 510 was off a lil did the fix now its back to working turned my truck on to see that it was 107 today wayyyyyyy toooooo hotttttttttt lol at least I know what the temp is

[tpmille]

Originally Posted by Thallarsen

Let me start out by describing my specific overhead display: Mine is in a '99 Explorer Limited with sunroof. The display provides digital compass bearings and temp. The housing also has the two 'spot' lights for driver and passenger.

If yours isn't exactly the same, but similar, I'll bet that the problem is identical to mine. This problem is related to solder failure, similar to the Mach radio display problem.

It's a resistor (or capacitor) that due to considerable heat, eventually loses its soldered contact at the board. You can confirm that this is the culprit by firmly pressing the button, thus putting slight pressure on the board housed inside the display housing. If the display fades in slightly then goes out - or stays on for a few hours/days, then goes back out, you have likely tweaked the board slightly and brought temporary contact to the problematic resistor.

The fix will take less than an hour if you're comfortable with soldering. If you've never soldered before, this may not be a good fix to learn on, because it is such a small component. I suggest finding an electronics guy to resolder the component. It's such a minor job that it shouldn't be much at all.

Anyway, what you'll need:

1. Torx T-10 and driver.
2. Soldering iron capable of small soldering repairs
3. Desoldering braid (I didn't really need it, but for the perfectionist...)
4. Good solder for small electronic work (silver based?) Radio Shack is a good resource.
5. Magnifying glass. Preferably the kind with the 'helping hands' alligator clips, in which you can position the glass over the work. You'll need two hands for the solder.

Here are the steps:
1. Remove the overhead console. This is done by pulling back the trim around the sunroof (if equipped) just enough to expose the black tab

This tab holds the rear portion of the console in place when tucked behind the sunroof trim (since I don't know the non-sunroof application, you're on your own here). Mine had some sticky adhesive that keeps the trim in place. The console should drop down slightly at this point.
2. Gently pull on both sides at about the middle of the console. It's held in by two pressure clips. It should pop out of the roof fixture without too much force.

3. Disconnect the two harness connectors (possibly only one if not equipped with a sunroof).

4. Working on a flat surface, remove the Torx screws (11 total for sunroof models). There's no need to remove the two rearmost screws on the black plastic bracket, or the two screws holding the harness plug receptacle (Connector 1 - sunroof models).

5. Lift the black plastic insert housing the light bezel and buttons from the console surround.

The spotlights and temp/compass display board come out as one unit, as they are attached with connectors.

6. Unplug the connector from the white display housing

7. Using a small screwdriver, pry around each of the four retainers that hold the white plastic cover in place over the black bottom housing.

8. After lifting the white plastic cover from the black bottom housing, you'll be able to remove the circuit board with the display glass. Take care not to bend the display glass.

9. Now that you have the board removed, you can identify the failed component. With a magnifying glass, carefully check the integrity and the solders at each end of the resistors labeled "510". This is where I found the failure. Yours is likely at one or both of these. This photo is a closeup. Note that these resistors are only about 1/4" end to end.

10. As you can see, I'm not a master solderer, but it worked. There was one resistor that was clearly broken from it's original solder, but the one next to it wasn't looking too stable, so I resoldered both. These little suckers get pretty hot when the display is operating normally, so make sure that your solder is good. This is where you take your time, and make sure that you have a stable solder at all resoldered points. If it's not such a good solder, it will fail before too long. You can test your repair by plugging in the connector to the board, then plugging that directly to the harness in the car. If you get a display, you've fixed the problem!

11. Reassemble in reverse order. One thing to note, is that the small spotlights' housing have two small tabs that fit into the black 'center' housing that has the buttons, light cover, etc. You'll need to fit the spotlights into the housing first and foremost before reassembling the console.

12. Good Luck!

Although this worked for me and all others who tried it and got back to me, I can't guarantee that it will work for you. So attempt this at your own risk. Please post to the thread to let others know whether this worked for you.

[Lizard]

At first, I thought this fix didn't work. I turned the key, it flashed for a second then went out. Turns out it was just in the "off" position---doh! The right resistor looked ok but the left was barely hanging on by a tiny thread of solder. Popped right off when I touched it with an X-acto blade. I ended up doing both resistors. Was a little tricky to reassemble
so take some notes or pictures. Thanks! ---Lizard

[greg8470]

Wow - what great repair help. One of those resistors actually fell of my circuit board, probably due to the love taps I'd give it when it'd fade out. $.99 worth of resistors from Radio Shack and good as new. Thanks for sharing the wealth. I'm sure this part wouldn't be cheap to replace from Ford!

[dhollatz]

We can tell Thallarsen has some talent for fixin' and writin'! Thanks for the detailed steps. By the way, I found the "fixya" web site was selling this solution for $9.99. It was the exact resistor with 510 printed on it that was the source of the problem. Just a small hairline crack in the solder and I hit it with the iron and now it works. This forum rocks!

[Thallarsen]

Originally Posted by dhollatz

By the way, I found the "fixya" web site was selling this solution for $9.99.

From what I can tell, "fixya" and a handful of other online sites and eBay sellers poached my fix that they charge for from this thread - on this forum. I guess that's capitalism.
I've never gotten a cent for this, and I've never asked for it. The hundreds of genuine "thank you's" that I've gotten here is worth more to me than $10 here and there.

Almost 5 years ago, when I decided to find out why my temp/compass display wasn't working, I did an extensive search (like most of the folks who have found this thread did to get here). I had discovered somebody else's fix for my Mach head unit display with great results, but I found nothing relating to the temp/compass display. Absolutely nothing.
So I delved in with nothing to lose and stumbled across the little weak link in the 510 solder.
I figured that I'd share my discovery with anybody else experiencing the same problem.
Serious Explorations is the first and only site where I've put this.
Since I had gleaned (and still do) so much good advice and valuable information from Serious Explorations, I figured that I'd give back to the community.
Glad to be of help

[ScienceofSpock]

I just did this repair today on my 98 Explorer Eddie Bauer. Don't have a sunroof in mine but aside from the black tab at the back of the console, everything else is spot on.
Couldn't find the proper 1/4 watt 68 ohm surface mount resister, so I bought a 10 pack of 1/4 watt 68 ohm round resisters (the old style with the legs). The surface mount pads are far enough apart and big enough, and with little creative bending, cutting and soldering, my overhead console is working like a champ.

For reference, one of my resisters was completely gone.

Anyway, great job and thanks for the writeup.

SoS

[keith13b]

Excellent write up ! This saved me hours of diagnosing it myself. A hairline crack in the solder - quick hit with the iron and all is well. Very simple fix - took me less than 20 min start to finish. I just tin'ed the leading edge of my iron pretty well, added a dab of flux to the resister, made contact and about 2-3 seconds later, it wicked from the tip onto the board and connected the resister.

To others - just go slow when separating the white/black cover on the board. The tabs look like they break easy if you're not careful. A small jewler's flathead did the trick. I had no problems!

A grateful thank you from me....and a huge thank you from my wife, whose car this is!!! Thank you again!

[hlg99]

This was my project today! Success! Found a dead spider in the console. Putting it back together with out breaking anything was the longest part of the job.

[fordorbust]

Is this the same K. Sims (SimplexGrinnell, Harahan, La.)?