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Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

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Old 09-05-2009, 11:04 PM   #281
sportb
Fairbanks, AK
2001 sport 4x4
 
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Upper and lower need replacing...

All four need replacing on my 2001 sport 4x4. I cant afford to do all at the same time so can I do the upper ball joints then the lower, lower then upper, passenger then driver...etc...?

Last edited by sportb; 09-05-2009 at 11:07 PM. Reason: this is not the place I wanted to post.
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Old 09-05-2009, 11:06 PM   #282
techieman33
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I would do the lowers, then the uppers and then get an alignment.
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Old 09-06-2009, 12:37 AM   #283
CDW6212R
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Ditto, the lower ball joint alone will have almost no effect on the alignment. Changing the upper control arms(to get the ball joint), that ruins the alignment immediately.

Do both of the uppers just before getting an alignment.




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Old 09-06-2009, 08:59 PM   #284
GRNMACHINE
IL
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Double Ditto-I did the lowers, no effect on alignment. Uppers are "okay" for a little while but looser than what they should be. I plan on doing the uppers (entire UCA) and tie rod ends along with the caster adjuster bolts soon at one time and then springing for an alignment right after.

Is the jury out on what is better for the passenger side-the Moog 1 piece or the Moog 2 piece?? I have already purchased the Moog drivers side but havent decided on the passengers side yet. Read the 2 piece makes it easier to align, but also read the 1 piece is fine as well by Moog to align.

Anyone? About a $20 diff, but I dont want to do this again, so whatever is the "best option" is what I will be getting.

THanks




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Old 09-06-2009, 10:39 PM   #285
storlied
Anchorage, Alaska
98 5.0L V8 AWD XLT
 
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Oh for crying out loud! I've been a member on this forum for idk how long and there never has been a single Fairbanks member on here since I've joined... and Just right after I move to Anchorage.... a Fairbanks member signs up.... WTH!




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Ford: Fixed Or Repaired Daily. But still going, kicking and screaming all the way. =D Yeaaah.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:57 PM   #286
techieman33
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Quote:
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Oh for crying out loud! I've been a member on this forum for idk how long and there never has been a single Fairbanks member on here since I've joined... and Just right after I move to Anchorage.... a Fairbanks member signs up.... WTH!
I just searched and found 18 members listed in fairbainks
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:22 PM   #287
CDW6212R
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Originally Posted by techieman33 View Post
I just searched and found 18 members listed in fairbainks
Funny!


The one piece right UCA is great, I just bought and installed my second one. The alignment shop has no trouble with it. I got Advance Auto to sell it for $125 instead of their $150 I believe price. They stock the Moog parts, but not the next one. I "wanted" the cheaper UCA's, and they offered to deal on the Moog parts, to avoid ordering the others.




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Old 09-07-2009, 05:46 PM   #288
storlied
Anchorage, Alaska
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Active members. Everyone that you found quit visiting this forum, or moved.




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Quote:
Originally Posted by joel903 View Post
These freaken explorers! Everything breaks
Ford: Fixed Or Repaired Daily. But still going, kicking and screaming all the way. =D Yeaaah.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:45 PM   #289
MountaineerGreen
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(Original Poster)
Quote:
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Active members. Everyone that you found quit visiting this forum, or moved.
However, none of this is related to lower ball joints
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Old 09-15-2009, 12:42 AM   #290
GRNMACHINE
IL
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CDW thanks for the info! Thats good to know.




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Old 10-01-2009, 11:58 AM   #291
ifflandm
Dallas, TX
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Hi,

I say your postings on replacing control arms and ball joints. I need to do both on both sides. IT looks like you do not need to "unload" the torsion bars on the uppers, just the lowers. Is this true? If so, it looks like you just used a jack to do this. HOw much do you jack up the wheel to do this. Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:52 PM   #292
GRNMACHINE
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I did not "unload" or touch the torsion bars when doing lowers. Not sure if it is a recommended thing to do or not.




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Old 10-01-2009, 01:54 PM   #293
ThePhoenix
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no need if you are not replacing the entire control arm
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:58 AM   #294
ThePhoenix
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hey I was looking on rock auto at control arms...what does "service grade" mean on the parts description? It's cheaper...but why?
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:16 PM   #295
dean1997sport
Los Angeles
97 Sport OHV
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePhoenix View Post
hey I was looking on rock auto at control arms...what does "service grade" mean on the parts description? It's cheaper...but why?
I was wondering about that too, I bought "service grade" uppers from rockauto.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:17 PM   #296
ThePhoenix
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did you get them/ install them yet? how is the quality?
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:23 PM   #297
dean1997sport
Los Angeles
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Yea I put them in a couple of months ago, quality is good. I made that decision after reading all the posts that say the uppers dont wear out as fast as the BJ's.
Mine have a grease fitting and look better than the OEM arms IMO, but they were shot.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:33 PM   #298
ThePhoenix
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wow, you may have opened up an avenue for me to fix my suspension sooner, as these parts are affordable for broke me. Thanks for the info
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:36 PM   #299
dean1997sport
Los Angeles
97 Sport OHV
 
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Yea I'm broke too I had to do it as cheap as possible. Right now rockauto has a sale on items that are going off inventory, I got an email from them pro grade BJ's for $18.00 a piece, inner tie rods $8.99.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:38 PM   #300
ThePhoenix
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can you email that to me? chazthephoenix@gmail.com or pm me

I just ordered a wheel bearing and rear sway bar bushing kit. I REALLY need to do the ball joints as they are sqwaking like a parrot.

I wonder if the 5% explorer forums discount applies to closeout items

Last edited by ThePhoenix; 10-05-2009 at 12:53 PM.
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