Trying to get it right-

*Jakee* · 10-03-2007, 08:39 PM

Well, the EGR doesn't have mandrel bends on it, so I don't think it's going to flow well enough?

**Turdle** · 10-05-2007, 04:13 PM

OK
I need a 6 -AN and 8-AN female fuel fitting-the part that slides onto the spring clip fitting with the o rings-I'd call it the female end.

Or
an alternative fuel line setup-

I can find russell 640880 and 640880,Which are the male ends- I need the other ends--lol

Ideas?

**Turdle** · 10-05-2007, 07:10 PM

Serious guys--
Does anyone have a clue as to the best way to get fuel lines swapped-the doggone fitting make this kin of confusing-
All I really need is to replace from the fitting by the control arm up to my rails-but the dang spring connector is throwing me for a curve--

If I was to cut the hard line and flare it-and use a flex line between the flares-is this doable?

*CDW6212R* · 10-05-2007, 07:17 PM

I haven't looked at the OE lines much, is there a short pair which go from the frame lines to the engine?

**Turdle** · 10-05-2007, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

I haven't looked at the OE lines much, is there a short pair which go from the frame lines to the engine?

Yes-
They will "work" but I don't like the routing-
since they are mostly rigid-this routing sucks--

**Turdle** · 10-05-2007, 07:23 PM

I'll get a picture of the lines and fitting for understanding and future reference-

**Turdle** · 10-05-2007, 07:48 PM

pic 1 stock fuel lines-
pic 2 male ends (regulator connection-return on left-supply to block on right)
pic 3 female ends-at frame connection---the male frame connectors look just like pic 2

**Turdle** · 10-05-2007, 07:50 PM

continued from above
these are some lines I swiped at the junk yard-from a tempo-and a focus I think

the size is good-but the female end on every one is a plastic clippy type--

**Turdle** · 10-05-2007, 07:55 PM

Now--with -AN fittings and braided hose I can work around the spring connectors at the regulator and fuel block just fine-but how in the heck do I connect to the frame connector-
If I swap in complete lines-I am still faced with the same size and type connections at the fuel pump-even the fuel filter--

What I need are 1 each of the female connectors-this would allow me to make flexible fuel lines--

**Turdle** · 10-06-2007, 10:22 AM

Well after talking with Don last night, we came up with a brain fart--

Here are the Aeromotive fittings--i was using the stock lines to feed these fittings-the left is supply, and the right one is return. The return was threaded right into the regulator-

It would seem I could just clip these into the frame connections, and run new lines with threaded ends---which is good news-

The bad news is I will need to remove the upper intake to gain access to the fuel rail fittings-I need to change from 180 degree connectors to 90 degree connectors. Good times--

*techieman33* · 10-06-2007, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtsmith

Well after talking with Don last night, we came up with a brain fart--

Here are the Aeromotive fittings--i was using the stock lines to feed these fittings-the left is supply, and the right one is return. The return was threaded right into the regulator-

It would seem I could just clip these into the frame connections, and run new lines with threaded ends---which is good news-

The bad news is I will need to remove the upper intake to gain access to the fuel rail fittings-I need to change from 180 degree connectors to 90 degree connectors. Good times--

That sucks, but at least you figured it out.

*CDW6212R* · 10-06-2007, 11:32 AM

One other thought, knowing that you want it drivable soon I didn't ask last night. Can you leave those in place and buy other adapters to build the transition lines with?

There must be a few choices for adapters to connect to the OE fittings of the tank or frame lines. Is another adapter a better choice for one or more of those four ends you are connecting?

410Fortune · 10-06-2007, 11:44 AM

JT I make my own fuel lines using nylon hose and Factory Ford ends I cut off vehicles at the junk yard.

Its tricky but once you get it down its very useful.

You need a camping stove or gas stove, electric just wont cut it.
You boil water HOT HOT HOT, soak the nylon hose in it for a bit, then press it over all 3 flares of your metal fitting...it can be a PITA to get it over all 3 flares, unless you get the hose hot enough and have the fitting in a vice ready to go (this is why I do camping stove so its in the garage)

This allows you to make any fuel line you need using the factory pressure fittings. I have a jar full of the metal fittings male and female from the junk yard....

**Turdle** · 10-06-2007, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

One other thought, knowing that you want it drivable soon I didn't ask last night. Can you leave those in place and buy other adapters to build the transition lines with?

There must be a few choices for adapters to connect to the OE fittings of the tank or frame lines. Is another adapter a better choice for one or more of those four ends you are connecting?

So far-these are the only adapters to the frame rail connectors I can find-meaning I have looked through the places like Jeg's-summit, and ebay-

the only ones I can find online are these same units which came with the aeromotive fuel delivery system,and it was for Mustang applications--

The more I think about this the more I like it-I can run 2 supply lines from the frame to the firewall-(instead of up front then back) and one return line-hidden under the upper intake to firewall to join the supply's routing back to the frame--

**Turdle** · 10-06-2007, 11:48 AM

<<-----------screeches to halt--

hold up--what? 3 flares?

how do I do this to the explorer lines? care to school me a bit?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 410Fortune

JT I make my own fuel lines using nylon hose and Factory Ford ends I cut off vehicles at the junk yard.

Its tricky but once you get it down its very useful.

You need a camping stove or gas stove, electric just wont cut it.
You boil water HOT HOT HOT, soak the nylon hose in it for a bit, then press it over all 3 flares of your metal fitting...it can be a PITA to get it over all 3 flares, unless you get the hose hot enough and have the fitting in a vice ready to go (this is why I do camping stove so its in the garage)

This allows you to make any fuel line you need using the factory pressure fittings. I have a jar full of the metal fittings male and female from the junk yard....

*CDW6212R* · 10-06-2007, 12:07 PM

I see Jon, I was trying to see how you could get a main line adapter that only had one outlet. You are thinking of using it for a fuel block, to feed the rear of the rails.

Good hard work there Jamie. I have worked with the OEM plastic lines before also. I installed an 887 GT engine into my old 85 Crown Vic. The Crown Vic had a carburetor(VV crap) with a return line on the block fuel pump. I installed factory connectors cut from fuel injected cars onto the frame lines(which had rubber hose and clamps).

Those lines are hell to install to the fittings while on the car. Removed from the car so that you can get fully to them it's just very hard.

If you can get new nylon lines which are the right size, then that can be a great option. I wouldn't do those for high performance or best looks under the hood. Jon you shouldn't do that unless you had a time crunch and fast access to those lines.

Jamie, what size was the nylon line as you bought it for the fittings? I wonder of those connector fittings can be had any larger. I need to plumb lines for my onboard air compressor, and nylon lines are on my list of best choices.

**Turdle** · 10-07-2007, 12:50 PM

Ok, here is the list-
just to make the fuel lines look like they will work, instead of just working and looking ugly-

1) 3x -8 AN Y- block fitting ( to rid myself of the T)
2) -8 AN swivel coupler ( to couple the y to the "t" fitting with female fuel line fitting )
3) -8 AN cap ( to cap off spare "t" fitting)
4) -8 AN 45 degree swivel hose end qty 2 (supply connection at frame)
5) -6 AN union (regulator connection for return line)
6)-6 AN 45 degree swivel hose end ( return connection at frame)
7)-6 AN 90 degree swivel hose end (return connection at regulator union)
8) 3' -6 AN braided hose
9) 6' -8 AN braided hose

jeg's = $168.XX
summit= $153.XX

*CDW6212R* · 10-07-2007, 12:56 PM

Did you find the "Y" blocks for about $24 each, that's what I noticed recently? They had other versions that were closer to $60 each. I just wanted two for trans cooler lines(PTF) ends.

**Turdle** · 10-07-2007, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

Did you find the "Y" blocks for about $24 each, that's what I noticed recently? They had other versions that were closer to $60 each. I just wanted two for trans cooler lines(PTF) ends.

They do have cheaper y blocks-however by the time you put 3 -8 an unions in them it adds 30.00 more---

so, I am opting for a purple colored tripple "AN" fitting Y-block

It is 36 bux-

*CDW6212R* · 10-07-2007, 01:23 PM

That's very nice for fuel lines, good choice.

10-03-2007, 08:39 PM	#181
Jakee Elite Explorer Huntsville, Texas 01 Sport Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 2,814 Vehicle Specs	Well, the EGR doesn't have mandrel bends on it, so I don't think it's going to flow well enough? __________________ STS turbo charged

10-05-2007, 04:13 PM	#182
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,738 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	OK I need a 6 -AN and 8-AN female fuel fitting-the part that slides onto the spring clip fitting with the o rings-I'd call it the female end. Or an alternative fuel line setup- I can find russell 640880 and 640880,Which are the male ends- I need the other ends--lol Ideas? __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also Last edited by Turdle; 10-05-2007 at 05:28 PM.

10-05-2007, 07:10 PM	#183
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,738 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Serious guys-- Does anyone have a clue as to the best way to get fuel lines swapped-the doggone fitting make this kin of confusing- All I really need is to replace from the fitting by the control arm up to my rails-but the dang spring connector is throwing me for a curve-- If I was to cut the hard line and flare it-and use a flex line between the flares-is this doable? __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

10-05-2007, 07:17 PM	#184
CDW6212R Elite Explorer Knoxville, TN 98 Mountaineer A4WD Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 12,935 Vehicle Specs	I haven't looked at the OE lines much, is there a short pair which go from the frame lines to the engine? __________________ Don 91 Lincoln LSC/SE, 99/93 Explorer Limited 4WD, 98 AWD Mounty with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors. Soon a BW4406, built trans, stereo and interior. The best thing that could help us all, is the Fair Tax Plan. Be American, Buy American (Manufacturer)

10-05-2007, 07:23 PM	#186
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,738 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I'll get a picture of the lines and fitting for understanding and future reference- __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

10-05-2007, 07:48 PM	#187
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,738 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	pic 1 stock fuel lines- pic 2 male ends (regulator connection-return on left-supply to block on right) pic 3 female ends-at frame connection---the male frame connectors look just like pic 2 Attached Images __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

10-05-2007, 07:50 PM	#188
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,738 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	continued from above these are some lines I swiped at the junk yard-from a tempo-and a focus I think the size is good-but the female end on every one is a plastic clippy type-- Attached Images __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

10-05-2007, 07:55 PM	#189
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,738 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Now--with -AN fittings and braided hose I can work around the spring connectors at the regulator and fuel block just fine-but how in the heck do I connect to the frame connector- If I swap in complete lines-I am still faced with the same size and type connections at the fuel pump-even the fuel filter-- What I need are 1 each of the female connectors-this would allow me to make flexible fuel lines-- __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

10-06-2007, 10:22 AM	#190
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,738 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Well after talking with Don last night, we came up with a brain fart-- Here are the Aeromotive fittings--i was using the stock lines to feed these fittings-the left is supply, and the right one is return. The return was threaded right into the regulator- It would seem I could just clip these into the frame connections, and run new lines with threaded ends---which is good news- The bad news is I will need to remove the upper intake to gain access to the fuel rail fittings-I need to change from 180 degree connectors to 90 degree connectors. Good times-- Attached Images __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

10-06-2007, 11:32 AM	#192
CDW6212R Elite Explorer Knoxville, TN 98 Mountaineer A4WD Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 12,935 Vehicle Specs	One other thought, knowing that you want it drivable soon I didn't ask last night. Can you leave those in place and buy other adapters to build the transition lines with? There must be a few choices for adapters to connect to the OE fittings of the tank or frame lines. Is another adapter a better choice for one or more of those four ends you are connecting? __________________ Don 91 Lincoln LSC/SE, 99/93 Explorer Limited 4WD, 98 AWD Mounty with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors. Soon a BW4406, built trans, stereo and interior. The best thing that could help us all, is the Fair Tax Plan. Be American, Buy American (Manufacturer)

10-06-2007, 11:44 AM	#193
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	JT I make my own fuel lines using nylon hose and Factory Ford ends I cut off vehicles at the junk yard. Its tricky but once you get it down its very useful. You need a camping stove or gas stove, electric just wont cut it. You boil water HOT HOT HOT, soak the nylon hose in it for a bit, then press it over all 3 flares of your metal fitting...it can be a PITA to get it over all 3 flares, unless you get the hose hot enough and have the fitting in a vice ready to go (this is why I do camping stove so its in the garage) This allows you to make any fuel line you need using the factory pressure fittings. I have a jar full of the metal fittings male and female from the junk yard.... __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

10-06-2007, 12:07 PM	#196
CDW6212R Elite Explorer Knoxville, TN 98 Mountaineer A4WD Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 12,935 Vehicle Specs	I see Jon, I was trying to see how you could get a main line adapter that only had one outlet. You are thinking of using it for a fuel block, to feed the rear of the rails. Good hard work there Jamie. I have worked with the OEM plastic lines before also. I installed an 887 GT engine into my old 85 Crown Vic. The Crown Vic had a carburetor(VV crap) with a return line on the block fuel pump. I installed factory connectors cut from fuel injected cars onto the frame lines(which had rubber hose and clamps). Those lines are hell to install to the fittings while on the car. Removed from the car so that you can get fully to them it's just very hard. If you can get new nylon lines which are the right size, then that can be a great option. I wouldn't do those for high performance or best looks under the hood. Jon you shouldn't do that unless you had a time crunch and fast access to those lines. Jamie, what size was the nylon line as you bought it for the fittings? I wonder of those connector fittings can be had any larger. I need to plumb lines for my onboard air compressor, and nylon lines are on my list of best choices. __________________ Don 91 Lincoln LSC/SE, 99/93 Explorer Limited 4WD, 98 AWD Mounty with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors. Soon a BW4406, built trans, stereo and interior. The best thing that could help us all, is the Fair Tax Plan. Be American, Buy American (Manufacturer)

10-07-2007, 12:50 PM	#197
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,738 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Ok, here is the list- just to make the fuel lines look like they will work, instead of just working and looking ugly- 1) 3x -8 AN Y- block fitting ( to rid myself of the T) 2) -8 AN swivel coupler ( to couple the y to the "t" fitting with female fuel line fitting ) 3) -8 AN cap ( to cap off spare "t" fitting) 4) -8 AN 45 degree swivel hose end qty 2 (supply connection at frame) 5) -6 AN union (regulator connection for return line) 6)-6 AN 45 degree swivel hose end ( return connection at frame) 7)-6 AN 90 degree swivel hose end (return connection at regulator union) 8) 3' -6 AN braided hose 9) 6' -8 AN braided hose jeg's = $168.XX summit= $153.XX __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

10-07-2007, 12:56 PM	#198
CDW6212R Elite Explorer Knoxville, TN 98 Mountaineer A4WD Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 12,935 Vehicle Specs	Did you find the "Y" blocks for about $24 each, that's what I noticed recently? They had other versions that were closer to $60 each. I just wanted two for trans cooler lines(PTF) ends. __________________ Don 91 Lincoln LSC/SE, 99/93 Explorer Limited 4WD, 98 AWD Mounty with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors. Soon a BW4406, built trans, stereo and interior. The best thing that could help us all, is the Fair Tax Plan. Be American, Buy American (Manufacturer)

10-07-2007, 01:23 PM	#200
CDW6212R Elite Explorer Knoxville, TN 98 Mountaineer A4WD Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 12,935 Vehicle Specs	That's very nice for fuel lines, good choice. __________________ Don 91 Lincoln LSC/SE, 99/93 Explorer Limited 4WD, 98 AWD Mounty with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors. Soon a BW4406, built trans, stereo and interior. The best thing that could help us all, is the Fair Tax Plan. Be American, Buy American (Manufacturer)