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1995 ford explorer temperature gauge problem

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Old 11-27-2007, 05:35 PM   #1
jmccart
1995 xlt
 
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1995 ford explorer temperature gauge problem

hey ove got a 95 xlt and it gets warm on the gauge then it drops to cold, warms up again and does the same thing over and over, its getting horrible fuel mileage and i want to get this sorted out before i go further with the egr code any help is appreciated thanks. i seen the tsb coolant bypass kit but cannot get it any more im told any one have any info? ive done lots of reading but cant seem to find a solid answer, everyone seems to have problems with them fluctuating high rather then to cold

Last edited by jmccart; 11-27-2007 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 11-27-2007, 07:53 PM   #2
dmac0923
Yorktown
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i had to replace the actual gauge on my 95 that was doing the same thing as yours




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Old 11-27-2007, 07:59 PM   #3
jmccart
1995 xlt
 
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i thought that as well but grounded it out and it went full hot, also when it drops to the colder side i feel it in the heat, doesnt go cold but goes from a hot to more mildish temp coming from the vents
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:29 PM   #4
mikeh44
Kansas City Kansas
2004 XLT
 
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when is the last time you changed your thermostat
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:33 PM   #5
jmccart
1995 xlt
 
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changed it as soon as it did it i just bought it and have this prob, i figured that was it, changed it and it does the same thing
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:46 PM   #6
mikeh44
Kansas City Kansas
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this may sound dumb but did you put it in correctly
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:25 PM   #7
jmccart
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yea lol its in right, i work in a dealership just not a ford one, its got us stumped never seen anything like this before i was hoping someone here has seen it or similar
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Old 11-28-2007, 01:32 PM   #8
96eb96
Albany, NY
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Are you getting heat? Did you scan the PCM for the Coolant temp PID? Did you change the one wire sender? Are you using a Ford OEM stat?
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Old 11-28-2007, 01:40 PM   #9
96eb96
Albany, NY
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Also, does your stat have the little hole on the top? Some aftermarket ones do not. This hole helps bleed trapped air in this engine. You must purge air out of the 4.0 properly. The fluctuation could be air pockets in the coolant or even water pump cavitation/airlock. Follow the refill procedure in the owners manual. A new motorcraft stat, temp sender, and proper air bleeding solved all heat and gauge problems.
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:35 PM   #10
jmccart
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do you happen to have proper bleeding procedure i dont have a manual, we did bleed it everytime the gauge would drop wed get bubbles out of the rad
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:36 PM   #11
jmccart
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do you happen to have proper bleeding procedure i dont have a manual, we did bleed it everytime the gauge would drop wed get bubbles out of the rad
also how can i check the pcm since i cant use a obd2 scanner
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Old 11-29-2007, 09:25 AM   #12
Letalon239
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I have a 1996 limited 5.0 and it do the same think...So i changed the t-stat with ford oem...no change. I was thinking about the clutch fan because my fan start as soon as I start the truck...he is always running. It is normal?
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Old 11-29-2007, 05:41 PM   #13
Explorer914
Jersey
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Mine does something similar, my temp gauges usually stays a good amount past the C. but never to the half way mark...but sometimes it will go to the half way mark and then drop back down to where it normally sits...
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Old 11-29-2007, 07:44 PM   #14
96eb96
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www.motorcraft.com has owners manuals with the bleed procedure. If you have a 95, pick the 96 model. You have to warm the car up with the radiator cap in the notched (relief) position. Then let it cool a bit, and top off. Again, I solved this problem with a full garden hose heater core/block flush (take it easy on the pressure), a new one wire sender, new oem stat and following factory bleed procedure. The gauge now moves slightly around the center temperature symbol. It used to move between C and normal. It never went above 1/2way when it was malfunctioning.

A fan clutch is usually OK if there is some resistance felt when you spin it when the car is off. It should not be hard to spin but yet it should not freewheel.
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Old 11-30-2007, 01:00 PM   #15
jmccart
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the clutch is alright im just wondering about the bubbles, the heat is not great either, it blows warm but does not get to temp inside like it should
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Old 11-30-2007, 01:54 PM   #16
Letalon239
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It could be your head gasket...
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Old 11-30-2007, 02:48 PM   #17
jmccart
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thats what im afraid of
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Old 12-02-2007, 12:37 AM   #18
Letalon239
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Where do you can see bubbles? On the coolant reserve?
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Old 12-03-2007, 09:31 AM   #19
jmccart
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update

its not bubbling in the res but with the cap off it kinda pushes antifreeze out not bubbling tho also i seen the upper rad hose collapse what would cause this its a new hose so i know thats not the problem
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Old 12-03-2007, 08:03 PM   #20
96eb96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmccart View Post
update

its not bubbling in the res but with the cap off it kinda pushes antifreeze out not bubbling tho also i seen the upper rad hose collapse what would cause this its a new hose so i know thats not the problem

I dont understand. Are you bleeding with the cap in the first notched postion? This helps build up some pressure. You should not bleed with the cap off. It is normal for the hose to collapse on the first bleed after the tstat opens. In a few minutes after the car cools off, CAREFULLY with a rag slowly open the cap. Now add up coolant to the radiator, repeat with the cap fully closed.

Also, you never mentioned if your stat has a bleed hole. What brand stat do you have?
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