REAR LIGHTS, Ad-ons?

[Badspell68]

When I’m out in the woods it is hard to see what is going on behind me when backing up at night. Any recommendations as to what I can ad to the back of my truck, something lo profile that could be easily mounted under the bumper like the stock front fog lights?

Thanks!

[Tbars4]

...i have these run of the mill lights and they work fine...just get some cheap lites and mount them...mine are on a switch of their own...

[cybergasm]

Originally Posted by Badspell68

something lo profile that could be easily mounted under the bumper like the stock front fog lights?

Thanks!

I think you answered your own question....like Tbars said just get some cheap
driving lights and mount em up on the rear bumper and ya good to go

As for wiring them u might wanna wire them to the reverse lights since wiring them to a separate switch might be illegal in some states.

[Badspell68]

Great! Should I run the power directly to the bat or what is the best way?

[hunterdan]

I had a light mounted under the rear bumper but the lens was shattered on the trail when it hit a rock. I am now looking at something that mounts into the bumper, similar to this. I may order up 2 of these lights, the pigtails and washers and mount them in my bumper. http://www.rallylights.com/Optilux/o..._work_lamp.asp
I think I will be doing this sometime within the next month or so.

Dan

[cybergasm]

Originally Posted by Badspell68

Great! Should I run the power directly to the bat or what is the best way?

There only two wires on most driving lights +pwr -grnd

Well depends on how ya want to work. If ya want to run a switch then run though the battery.

But if you want to have em activate through the back up lights then splice em direct in the reverse lights.

[toypaseo]

If you look at the Holiday Bargains and Stocking Stuffers ad flyers on www.harborfreightusa.com, they have a halogen driving light set for $7.99.

You can see them here, but they are $8.99...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37349

[Badspell68]

Anyone have details on how to install. Never done anything electric on the truck before?

Thanks!

[bigapple]

well u could always do an LED conversion... for those aux lights, u just run the positive and negative wires to the wires that power ur reverse lights to parallel them in the circuit... so when ur backup lights come on, ur aux lights will too... if u want to do an LED conversion let me know... here r the results of mine... the comparison on the wall is: left-stock and right-new LEDs...

[Badspell68]

NICE! How did you do it?

[bigapple]

Originally Posted by Badspell68

NICE! How did you do it?

well i had to create my own board... u can always buy the plug and play ones from superlumination.com but u never know how bright theyll really be and theyre expensive... i spent 20 bucks ordering 50 10mm LEDs off ebay and i bought a circuit board and solder at radioshack... just used the solder and connected it up... this was before the install... i cut the large edge off with a dremel to fab it to fit into my stock light... i also had to grind down part of the inside of the housing to get the LEDs to all fit in... lots of hott glue used here

[Badspell68]

wow. I'm on this one!!

[Sandy]

Originally Posted by Badspell68

Anyone have details on how to install. Never done anything electric on the truck before?

Thanks!

Reverse Lights – Manual / Auto Modes

A lot of states require the Stock Backup Lights be in place so your alternative is to add to the existing Lighting not replace it with other lights.
Since you might want the lights to work when the Vehicle isn't moving or not use the newly added lights, it might be better to have a manually switched setup as well.

Also, you will need to use a relay not just a switch, I know people do run the main power to a switch on the dash and then to the lights but even though the amperage will not be very high don't do it.

Most backup lights are minimum of 55 watts each, so we will work from there.

55w x 2 = 110 watts total / ~12 volts = 9.16 amp or ~ 10 amp draw for the circuit.

10 amp in the circuit you could use 14-ga wire but just to make sure the lights get all of the current to work at their brightest, run 12-ga wire for the main power.

OK here is the list of parts I would use, IMHO... :

Relay - qty 1
Automotive Type Normally Open, Single Throw, The Relay should have four pins numbered 85, 86, 87 and 30. Pins 85 and 86 are to activate the Relay, Pin 30 is for the main power from the battery, on a fused line, and Pin 87 is the Load or the wire going to the lights.

Wire (2 sizes)
1) 12-ga wire for the Main Power, this wire will be used to run 12 volts from the battery to the relay and on to the lights, so get enough. Measure the length of the vehicle and add another five or six feet just to make sure you have enough to get around anything that gets in the way, shouldn't cost a lot. Buy automotive wire not standard household wire, there IS a difference. Automotive wire is very flexible and resistant to oil, gas and other fluids.
2) 16 or 18 ga wire for the activation of the Relay, again get the same type of wire "Auto Type". The amount can be determined by where you will want the switch to be mounted in the vehicle, where the relay will be mounted and the location of backup switch is.

Switch, SPDT, (Single Pole, Double Throw)
This switch needs three pole in one line on the back of it. The Switch will only need to control a small amount of current so the best thing here is to buy something you like the looks of and let the rating fall where it may. It will need to be for 12 or more volts but that is all you will need to worry about but I do not think it will be a problem.
(Note: Just thought of something, maybe a Double Throw Center-Off Switch might work better; you will be able to turn off the lights completely if you want to. Everything else about the switch should be the same).

Fuse Holder, In-Line Type, Qty 2
One 20 or 30-amp rating.
This is for the main power shut down just in case there is a short in the circuit. Placing it as close to the battery as possible will shut the power off faster with less voltage left in the circuit beyond the engine bay.
One low amperage rated fuse holder for the Switch side of the circuit, between the Circuit Panel and the Dash Switch.


IMHO, this is how I would do it:

Mount the Relay under the Hood where you want it, close to the battery area is probably best but you decide.

Mount the Switch where you want it, maybe an indicator light would be nice too. Maybe two to let you know the power is either to the manual side or the auto side.

Run a 12-ga wire from the battery to a Fuse Holder then to the Relay pin 30. (Note: Make sure to add in the In-Line Fuse Holder between the Relay and the battery; closer to the battery is better).
Run another 12-ga wire from pin 87 to the lights at the rear of the vehicle; this wire can be run to one light then jumped to the other.

Run a 16/18-ga wire from the Circuit Panel to the Switch;
(Note: Probably this wire will not have a fuse on it, so it might be a good idea to add a small value in-line fuse between the Circuit Panel and the Switch – added safety).

Connect the wire to either the top pole or the bottom pole of the Switch. How do you determine which one - this will determine if the lights will come on when the switch is up or down. I would connect it to work when the switch is up, down can be for the auto mode.
Run another 16/18-ga wire from the center pole of the switch to the relay pin 86.
From pin 85 run a wire to ground.
(Note: Grounding of the Relay is usually through pin 85 but some relay do not have a pin 85 and the grounding will happen through the mounting bracket.)

Depending on what power you tapped in the Circuit Panel, “on all the time” or “on with the key”, when you flip the switch you should get a reaction form the Relay, there should be a clicking.
In turn there should be 12 volts in the 12-ga wire at the rear of the vehicle or if the lights are hooked up the lights will be on.

The above is for the Manual-On hookup and should be completed first and tested to make sure it works then on to the “auto-mode”.

You will need to locate the Reverse Switch, usually located on the Transmission or Transfer Case, SOMEWHERE under there.
Find the wire, on the Reverse Switch, that has 12 volts in it when the transmission is in Neutral; you don’t want that one.
The other wire should have power in it when in Reverse but not when in Neutral.

Is this as confusing to you as it is to me ?

Now that you know which wire on the Reverse Switch that has 12 volts in it, when the trans is in reverse, splice and run a 16/18-ga wire from that wire to the other post on the dash switch.

If I am not completely screwed up, when the Dash Switch is in the up position the lights in the rear should be on and when the switch is in the down position and the trans is in reverse, the lights should go on AND when the switch is in the middle position (if you got a center-off switch) the lights will be off no matter where the trans is.

I think this will work; PLEASE ANYONE that sees a problem with this write up just say something before it is used and completely screws up the vehicle.

Luck and ltr Dude... tell me if it works out and sorry if it catches fire,, it shouldn't.

PS - One more thing... GROUNDING is the most common problem with the lights either not working or giving you trouble. To reduce the amount of problems from grounding one of two things can be done.
1) When connecting the ground wire to the frame, not the bumper, make sure to get to bare metal, use a conductive, non-corroding paste and use external tooth lock washers between the wire-lug and the frame and the wire-lug and the bolt or nut.
2) My way - run a 12-ga ground wire along with the power wire to the rear of the vehicle, attach the end in the engine bay to the negative side of the battery or to a stud that is attached to the battery and the end by the Lights should have all connections soldered.

In fact all connections should be soldered, even lugs.

[FROADER]

The lights that toypaseo would be perfect. They come with the switches and everything for $9.

If you don't want the switch, wire them to the revers lights like cybergasm said. Easy as pie.

[Bill Kemp]

Great write up Sandy. Very comprehensive.
The only thing I would add is to use a wire loom to encase the wire that runs under the truck. On my first set of lights I didnt and where it rested on the frame the wire was worn through by the constant movement/rubbing. Blew the fuse when it grounded out.
You can buy it by the foot at NAPA & its pretty cheap.

[Badspell68]

Do you have a schematic for the upgrade with part numbers listed? I'm sort of an amateur at electronics but think I can do it

[Sandy]

Originally Posted by Badspell68

Do you have a schematic for the upgrade with part numbers listed? I'm sort of an amateur at electronics but think I can do it

R U referencing my write up ?

If so, the parts are basic automotive type electrical stuff seen at any Auto Parts Store, none of it has a part generic number.
Read the list, write it down and go get the parts.

[Donner]

Originally Posted by Badspell68

Do you have a schematic for the upgrade with part numbers listed? I'm sort of an amateur at electronics but think I can do it

this is the white night system, they come w/55w x2 but too bright for just city streets - i swapped w/35w x2

the blue lock, ignore but you have to do a few things to secure it.

[Brian1]

I used to run 2 of those cheapie HF lights for backup lights. They were mounted to my roof rack and I got rid of them when I sold it. Now I run a single reverse light and that is really all you need IMO. It throws a good beam out that covers both sides. It is a rubber tractor light from harbor freight that was under $10. It is very durable and is only a 1 wire hookup since it is grounded to the mount.

[Sandy]

Keep in mind the wattage of one Tractor Light, not very much probably around 20 watts maybe 15.

If you plan on two 55 watt lights you will need a relay and new wiring to the rear and yes the new lights can be sort of a one wire hookup, one power wire that is and the grounds can be the bumper but to eliminate grounding problems the grounds should be the frame at a minimum.