metalmechanic
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- January 27, 2008
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- 95 XLT
I searched for a thread on this and didn't find one. It's a fairly simple job, but it's nice to have some idea what you're doing. This job is made easier with air tools, but can be done with hand tools. Also, it was way to dirty to take pics, so I'll try to be as descriptive as possible. This was done on a 1995 XLT.
Step 1:
Block the wheels, start the truck, put the tranny in neutral, set the parking brake, and shut it off. You'll see why later.
Step 2:
If required, put the front and rear of the vehicle on jackstands so you can crawl underneath. You WILL need a jack later, even if you can fit under the truck while it's on the ground. Try and keep the truck as level as possible for the next step.
Step 3:
Drain the transfer case fluid. You don't have to drain all the fluid to change the seal, but you may as well change the fluid anyway, since you're there. I am going to borrow a pic from ExplorerDMB's thread here.
Step 4:
Remove the driveshaft from the transfer case output flange. The bolts on mine needed a 12 point 12 mm socket.
Before removing anything, make a mark ,with a paint pen or something similar, at one bolt on the driveshaft and tranfer case flanges. When reinstalling, use this mark to put the flanges together in the same position they came apart.
In the above pic, 2 of the 4 bolts are showing. Remove 2, then jack up the rear end and spin the driveshaft to get at the other 2. If you are using hand tools, you will need to lower the rear end back down to undo the bolts. If using air tools, you can remove all 4 with the rear end in the air.
Step 5:
Once the driveshaft is out of the way, you will see a nut that holds the output flange onto the transfer case output shaft. I didn't have the Metric socket for this nut, but a 1 1/4" socket worked fine. I had air tools for this job, and this nut will be a PITA with hand tools as the shaft will spin with the wrench, and this nut should be TIGHT.
Once the nut is removed, make a mark with your paint pen on the output shaft that matches the mark you made at the flange bolt hole.
Remove the washer behind the nut, and remove the flange from the output shaft. Note the plastic dust cover under the washer you removed. Unless you have a new one, save this to put back on later.
Step 6:
The output seal sits in the housing around the output shaft and will be in plain view with the flange removed. Use a small pry bar or seal puller to remove the seal. Be careful not to gouge the aluminum housing that the seal sits in. Note which way the seal was facing (oil side in), as the new one goes in the same way.
Step 7:
With the old seal out, make sure the seal bore is smooth all the way around. If not, lightly sand with fine emery paper, making sure to wipe out all the filings. To install the new seal, you need a piece of pipe or large socket that sits along the OUTSIDE of the seal. Do not drive on the inner part of the seal or it will leak. Lightly apply some of the old fluid to the outside of the seal, and place the seal over the bore. Make sure it isn't ****ed, and drive it in.
Step 8:
Apply Never Seize to the splines inside the output flange, and slide the flange onto the output shaft. Make sure to line up the marks you made earlier.
Slide the plastic dust cover, and the washer, on to the shaft. If you are reusing the large nut for the flange, be sure to put Loctite on the threads.
Do the nut up tight. Be sure that you can't move the flange back and forth on the shaft. If you can, the nut isn't tight yet.
Step 9:
Bolt the driveshaft back onto the flange. Make sure to line up your marks, and use Loctite on all the bolts. The torque on the flange bolts is only 16 ft/lbs, so don't overtighten. However, you don't want your driveshft to fall off, so they do need to be tight. I used an air wrench to take the out, and tightened them by hand at installation.
Step 10:
Fill your transfer case using the fluid of your choice. This is also covered in ExplorerDMB's thread, found here
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152869
Step 11:
Clean all fluid of the outside of the transfer case and the surrounding area. After driving for a bit (but don't leave it to long) look underneath and check for any leaks from the seal area. Hopefully, you did good and no leaks are seen.
(Again, I apologize for no pics. If anyone needs clarification with anything, I will be happy to help)
Step 1:
Block the wheels, start the truck, put the tranny in neutral, set the parking brake, and shut it off. You'll see why later.
Step 2:
If required, put the front and rear of the vehicle on jackstands so you can crawl underneath. You WILL need a jack later, even if you can fit under the truck while it's on the ground. Try and keep the truck as level as possible for the next step.
Step 3:
Drain the transfer case fluid. You don't have to drain all the fluid to change the seal, but you may as well change the fluid anyway, since you're there. I am going to borrow a pic from ExplorerDMB's thread here.
Step 4:
Remove the driveshaft from the transfer case output flange. The bolts on mine needed a 12 point 12 mm socket.
Before removing anything, make a mark ,with a paint pen or something similar, at one bolt on the driveshaft and tranfer case flanges. When reinstalling, use this mark to put the flanges together in the same position they came apart.
In the above pic, 2 of the 4 bolts are showing. Remove 2, then jack up the rear end and spin the driveshaft to get at the other 2. If you are using hand tools, you will need to lower the rear end back down to undo the bolts. If using air tools, you can remove all 4 with the rear end in the air.
Step 5:
Once the driveshaft is out of the way, you will see a nut that holds the output flange onto the transfer case output shaft. I didn't have the Metric socket for this nut, but a 1 1/4" socket worked fine. I had air tools for this job, and this nut will be a PITA with hand tools as the shaft will spin with the wrench, and this nut should be TIGHT.
Once the nut is removed, make a mark with your paint pen on the output shaft that matches the mark you made at the flange bolt hole.
Remove the washer behind the nut, and remove the flange from the output shaft. Note the plastic dust cover under the washer you removed. Unless you have a new one, save this to put back on later.
Step 6:
The output seal sits in the housing around the output shaft and will be in plain view with the flange removed. Use a small pry bar or seal puller to remove the seal. Be careful not to gouge the aluminum housing that the seal sits in. Note which way the seal was facing (oil side in), as the new one goes in the same way.
Step 7:
With the old seal out, make sure the seal bore is smooth all the way around. If not, lightly sand with fine emery paper, making sure to wipe out all the filings. To install the new seal, you need a piece of pipe or large socket that sits along the OUTSIDE of the seal. Do not drive on the inner part of the seal or it will leak. Lightly apply some of the old fluid to the outside of the seal, and place the seal over the bore. Make sure it isn't ****ed, and drive it in.
Step 8:
Apply Never Seize to the splines inside the output flange, and slide the flange onto the output shaft. Make sure to line up the marks you made earlier.
Slide the plastic dust cover, and the washer, on to the shaft. If you are reusing the large nut for the flange, be sure to put Loctite on the threads.
Do the nut up tight. Be sure that you can't move the flange back and forth on the shaft. If you can, the nut isn't tight yet.
Step 9:
Bolt the driveshaft back onto the flange. Make sure to line up your marks, and use Loctite on all the bolts. The torque on the flange bolts is only 16 ft/lbs, so don't overtighten. However, you don't want your driveshft to fall off, so they do need to be tight. I used an air wrench to take the out, and tightened them by hand at installation.
Step 10:
Fill your transfer case using the fluid of your choice. This is also covered in ExplorerDMB's thread, found here
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152869
Step 11:
Clean all fluid of the outside of the transfer case and the surrounding area. After driving for a bit (but don't leave it to long) look underneath and check for any leaks from the seal area. Hopefully, you did good and no leaks are seen.
(Again, I apologize for no pics. If anyone needs clarification with anything, I will be happy to help)
With your help I changed my rear output seal today. Took about an hour only because that flange bolt is a real B*%$! 
to break loose. Then couldn't find 
one of the driveshaft bolts. Some how while scooting around while trying to break loose the flange nut it managed to find its way into my rear pocket by my wallet. Spent 15 min looking 
