How hard to swap a rear axle?

[TrevoJreal429]

Im wanting to swap my 8.8 with 3.55 gears for one with 4.10's.
I found one on craigslist for pretty cheap.
How hard is the swap, i've got tools and im pretty handy.
I imagine its easier keep my brake calipers so I dont have to mess with that.
How do I unhook the parking brake?
I know there is somekind of speed sensor in there, I just had mine replaced because it was making the abs light come on, i'd like to put the new sensor in the new axle if its not too hard.

I did a search and didnt find too much about it.
Thanks much.

[kert0307]

It's pretty easy to do if you have a few jack stands laying around. if you are 4x4 or awd you will need to find 4.10 gears for the front axle as well. The speed sensor is easy it's a $13 part that is held in by one bolt. It is right on top of the center of the axle. You could just take the sensor out of your current axle and put it in that one.

[TrevoJreal429]

I do have a couple jacks and jack stands, my explorer is 2 wheel drive.
I want to swap for 4.10's because I lost about 3 mpg when I got 31 inch tires.
The speed sensor in the axle with 3.55's is only like 4 months old and was almost $40.

[glfredrick]

A simple axle swap could be done in the driveway in under an hour with air tools. With hand tools, slightly longer...

It is fairly simple nuts and bolts stuff, with perhaps the most difficult part being bleeding the brakes once you are finished.

I'd purchase 4 new u-bolts that hold the axle to the springs and just cut the stockers unless yours are rust free and clean. They only cost a couple of bucks a peice and it is easier to dump the old ones than to fight rust.

[Turdle]

Originally Posted by glfredrick

A simple axle swap could be done in the driveway in under an hour with air tools. With hand tools, slightly longer...

It is fairly simple nuts and bolts stuff, with perhaps the most difficult part being bleeding the brakes once you are finished.

I'd purchase 4 new u-bolts that hold the axle to the springs and just cut the stockers unless yours are rust free and clean. They only cost a couple of bucks a peice and it is easier to dump the old ones than to fight rust.

Under an hour? huh? Maybe after you've done it a few times-
be realistic, allow at least a full afternoon, and have at least 1 other handy friend around.
you'll want to pull the caliper brackets, remove the diffy cover, pull the axles and replace bearings and seals-about an hour right there

It will probably take about 20 minutes just to figure out the retainer for the e brake cable-

then, you'll be swapping brakes and calipers most likely-that alone is about an hour in my driveway-
the older axles ebrakes will be crap, so I would get new shoes and hardware-IMO
Rebuilding the ebrakes takes about an hour if not longer, for the inexperienced.

[TrevoJreal429]

The trucks been in Florida its whole life so its pretty much rust free.
Would I need to bleed the brakes if I used my old brake calipers and didnt unhook them?
I was planning on taking the cover off when I get the axle to make sure everythings in working order, what does it take to replace the seals and bearings?
Thanks much.

[Cobraguy]

Just hang your existing brakes out of the way. Do not hang by the hydraulic hoses. Disconnect the hydraulic lines from your old housing and hold out of the way. You can swap your rotors too. Then decide if you want to reuse your emergency brake stuff or the new one if it has it. You shouldn't have to bleed anything.

This can be done in an hour if you have all new bolts, air tools, a friend to help hold things, and know exactly what you're doing. Otherwise, JT is right. You will need at least an afternoon.

Don't forget to put lube in the new housing!! Oh...and it wouldn't hurt to pull the cover and axles and inspect what you're getting, inspect the axle seals and surfaces, and replace as necessary

[Turdle]

There is a list of how to threads--one of which--
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=214885

is your joy!

[techieman33]

Originally Posted by Cobraguy

Just hang your existing brakes out of the way. Do not hang by the hydraulic hoses. Disconnect the hydraulic lines from your old housing and hold out of the way. You can swap your rotors too. Then decide if you want to reuse your emergency brake stuff or the new one if it has it. You shouldn't have to bleed anything.

This can be done in an hour if you have all new bolts, air tools, a friend to help hold things, and know exactly what you're doing. Otherwise, JT is right. You will need at least an afternoon.

Don't forget to put lube in the new housing!! Oh...and it wouldn't hurt to pull the cover and axles and inspect what you're getting, inspect the axle seals and surfaces, and replace as necessary

The brakes will have to be bled, the brake line for the passenger side is attached to the axle, and it'll be a lot easier to just use the line from the 4.10 axle unless it's bad.

[rizzjc]

I swapped out my 3.73 with a matching junk yard axle. I was able to disconnect all of the brake components and brakes lines, and remove the axle. I never had to open up the brake system.

[gavin]

Originally Posted by rizzjc

I swapped out my 3.73 with a matching junk yard axle. I was able to disconnect all of the brake components and brakes lines, and remove the axle. I never had to open up the brake system.

this is exactly what I did.
I spread apart the clips on the axle that the hardline was held on by to remove. After I got the other axle swapped in, I lightly tapped the metal clips to hold the hardline back in place.

I removed my calipers, used zip ties to hold them up to the frame. Then I used zip ties in 3-4 spots on the hardline to hold it up out of the way.

[Cobraguy]

Brake system does not have to be opened up. I think Techie did it as his choice rather than fiddle with removing the line. His choice of words were poor...you don't HAVE to do it that way...but you can if it is the path you choose to take.

[techieman33]

Bleeding the brakes isn't going to hurt anything either way as it's probably been long overdue anyway.

[gavin]

Originally Posted by techieman33

Bleeding the brakes isn't going to hurt anything either way as it's probably been long overdue anyway.

I agree, yet disagree.
Nope, it won't hurt anything.

But, if brakes feel fine, there's no sense.

And the way my luck has been lately, if I had decided to just because, something would break on me, or it would end up causing more trouble. That's just how it's been for me lately

[rizzjc]

Originally Posted by gavin

But, if brakes feel fine, there's no sense.

I'm starting to not agree with that. I use to, but the more I read about moisture getting in there, brake fluid getting dirty, etc, the more I'm thinking it's worthwhile to replace it now and then.

HOWEVER, back on topic, bleeding the brakes has nothing to do with swapping the axle.

[gavin]

Originally Posted by rizzjc

I'm starting to not agree with that. I use to, but the more I read about moisture getting in there, brake fluid getting dirty, etc, the more I'm thinking it's worthwhile to replace it now and then.

generally speaking, the brakes will fade before it becomes disastrous

of course, there's always that off chance that it becomes disastrous with no warning, which I'm sure has happend in the past with somebody.


aaaaaaaaaaanywho, I'll stay on topic now

[TrevoJreal429]

Originally Posted by gavin

generally speaking, the brakes will fade before it becomes disastrous

of course, there's always that off chance that it becomes disastrous with no warning, which I'm sure has happend in the past with somebody.

So how do I go about bleeding the brakes?
I'll probably be paranoid after reading that ^.
So I might as well do it just to be safe.

[rizzjc]

Pretty easy. Get a big bottle of brake fluid, then use a turkey baster to suck all you can out of the reservoir and fill it with the new fluid. This makes it go faster. Then open the rear brakes and pump the fluid (with the pedal) into a container until it runs clean, making sure to refill the reservoir whenever it gets low. Supposedly you don't want air getting to the ABS module, or you gotta take it in to have it bled. You'll see how dirty it is. Then do the other side, then do the fronts. Fronts will go quick.

[ProjectAviator]

Me and Hokie did the double swap his 4.10s for my 3.73s total about 3-4 hours total with hand tools. We didn't have to bleed the brakes we just disconnected the brake lines from the axle. We hung the brake calipers with wire. we where careful when moving the axles.

Tim

[rizzjc]

I had to give myself 2 days, 'cause I was doing it alone, and that darn axle is heavy! My pregnant wife wasn't much help, but she's all I had. Really it was probably more like 2 half days.