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Tbars A4LD...Urgent help needed

Tbars4

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City, State
anaheim hills,california
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 ranger 4x4/ 91 X 4x4
...Thanks ahead of time for your input as I know next to zilch about trannys...:confused:

....The front pump seal went out in my year old tranny....We pulled it out to find someone tried to pinch the seal in...:eek:

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...We are sitting here debating pulling the bell housing as it may be dificult to align all the parts back in..:eek:

....I think I need to get another bell housing asap...

...My question is how difficult is swapping this out since it bolts from the rear???
 



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pinch seal in

thats not uncommon to see that pinch it`s called stakeing in the seal a4ld is known for the front seal blowing out by stakeing the seal in it prevents the seal from blowing out.you dont have to replace the bell houseing just restake the new seal in just like you found it
 






...Thanks a bunch...:bounce:

...So we just rip it out and throw a new one in, then restake it...:scratch:


...Also...Is there a seal thats preferred???
 












...What can I say....Everytime I get to reading I seem to find myself helping others first(and that is alot of reading on that thread)

...and yea, I'm still a noob, lol...:D
 






Whatever you do, don't tear the front pump apart unless it's absolutely necessary. My understanding is once you do that, it's a real b1tch to get aligned again unless you have the proper tool.
 






...:eek: WHAT...Now you tell me...:eek:

















j/k ...we are going to finish the seal replacement in the morning...:thumbsup:
 






I would recommend sending it out to have the bushing machined in place. It has to be concentric. They use a special lathe to cut the bushing in place. Glacier recommends using a 5/16" drill bit to enlarge the drain back hole. Sonnax recommends replacing the flexplate to crankshaft spacer which might be cracked. Ford uses powdered iron while Sonnax uses billet steel. This is used on the 4.0L. The one you need has 6 holes. I remember you once said about a year ago that your problem was a warped case or was that Burns? I think it was Burns as I'm thinking now.
 






...This problem came at the wrong time as I spent to much on my (Great Colorado) Ranger trip...This will just be a remove and replace broken seal job...and yes, I believe it was burns...My tranny was a completely overhauled tranny last year, about 7000 miles ago...

...Now for some dumb questions..:D

1) mercon 4 or 5???

2)How many quarts for tc and what is the best way to re-install it as in fill it first and, 3quarts ???

3) tranny pan is 3 quarts and total 10 quarts???

4)Is there some type of sealent that could be used to keep that seal in place also???

...I already have a filter replacement ready and will be doing 1 or 2 mods to the pan...

...I just wish JTSmith lived closer, I'd have him powder coat my tranny pan to match my truck paint and torque convertor...:D

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Mercon V (five)

10 quarts according to the service manual.

I assume you are using the "new" style filter (sold by WIX and others...)

Don't forget to flush out the coolers, just to be safe.
 












...The good news out of all this is the fluid that came out of the tranny looks just like it came out of the bottle...:biggthump

...I'm not up on the tranny filters but I have already bought a new fram just like the one I had put in when I had the tranny rebuilt...(Fram haters, I know, I know :p:)

... The big question I guess would be what is the best way to refill/install the tc???.The pan will be dropped last, cleaned and inspected unless someone has a better way...:dunno:
 












...I'm not up on the tranny filters but I have already bought a new fram just like the one I had put in when I had the tranny rebuilt...(Fram haters, I know, I know :p:)

Actually, the filter Fram sells is the same one.
 












I wish I was there to help you with this Ted. I think you have it handled though.

...I am getting plenty of help and thanks to all you guys, I really appreciate it..:salute:

...Jon, you need to make an oven on wheels since you now got me thinking of what can be powdercoated when I should be mechanicing on my trucks...:rolleyes:
 






...I am getting plenty of help and thanks to all you guys, I really appreciate it..:salute:

...Jon, you need to make an oven on wheels since you now got me thinking of what can be powdercoated when I should be mechanicing on my trucks...:rolleyes:

Harley wants to see Kansas. she told me so.
 






Help

Looks like you have lots of help. My 2 cents.

Don't be suprised if your new seal does not last long as most of the seal failures are due to either heat or bushing/convertor wear. The heat causes the pump and convertor to expand and this leads to the seal not being able to keep up with the size changes and lets it leak past. Most of the time, these will dry back up once the tranny cools down, but usually you are looking at some internal damage caused by the extreme heat (seals harden, clutches bake, etc...) The other one is caused by the convertor and pump being misaligned and prematurely wearing the pump bushing and allowing the convertor to sag and leak around the seal. This is where the bushing needs to be replaced and then remachined to fit properly. I get around it by using the convertor to align the pump when I install the pump into the bellhousing. Not exactly the right way, but it works for me....well except when I built mine, but I replaced my bellhousing and pump with a used unit from off of a core 5r55e when I built my Frankentranny. I stupidly did not replace the bushing, only the seal and it has leaked since it was installed. I will replace the bushing and seal when the engine comes out this winter. I hope you have better luck than me and your seal holds. Don't forget to stake the seal in the housing and replace the oring seals on the bellhousing if you removed it as they will leak if reused. This is a good time to readjust your bands, don't be afraid. Also, replace the jamb nuts on the bands if you adjust them as they have a tendancy to seep/leak if reused. If you must reuse them, then smear some silicone on the back of the nuts before you tighten them and it should prevent the unwanted seepage. I have four in my toolbox, but they don't do you any good in Colorado now do they? Also, inspect the bushing and seal surfaces on the torque convertor and make sure they are in good shape. Replace the convertor if you have any doubts. The Mercon V that is sold by FMC (Ford Motor Company) is compatible with the older Mercon transmissions (says so on the bottle) and I highly recommend it as it is a semi-synthetic or full synthetic (can't remember exactly now...seems like the SP is the full synthetic and V is just a semi). I run it in mine with no problems and it seems to stay red and smell good longer than regular Mercon. I am replacing the flexplate in my wife's truck when I replace the engine since they had problems with them and it might be a good idea for you to consider. I picked mine up for $50 but I also know the parts store owner. I think they retail for $75-100. Consider it cheap insurance...it is recommend by all the transmission remanufacturers that I deal with, they even send a little card w/ the reman units stating this and listing the old TSB number for it.

I guess that may have been more than 2 cents, but it's hard to say the way the dollar has been fluxuating in recent weeks. Good luck.

Jeff
 



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There is 2 filters that they sell for the A4LD. One is bigger than the other. I have noticed a big difference on the shifting and strength of the trance between the 2 filters. I have found the larger filter at CarQuest and they come with a rubber gasket which if you smooth out the dimples on the pan where the bolts go through it will not leak at all. In theory you are supposed to smooth out the edge of the trans pan everytime you pull it down. It helps seal the pan a lil better I have noticed.

One thing I was told by a Master Tech at Ford is that you should change the fluid in the A4LD every 15k so it will last longer.

If I was there I would help you out TBars. I had really good luck rebuilding the Goblins trans. It was very easy.Just make sure you don't get the front pump seal from Kragens they sel the wrong seal. That is the whole reason I had to rebuild the trans in the Goblin. It is actually really easy to get the trans back tegether after pulling off the Bell housing because the Friction straps hold the Clutch packs in place from what I remember. I hope this has helped you some.:salute::cool:




P.S. Make sure you get the Tourque Converter to pop down THREE times. If you don't you will strip out the front pump. You HAVE to make sure it is in "ALL" the way. All you have to do is spin it slowly while pushin in on the tourque converter. This is VERY important that you are able to get the trouque converter in all the way. I have made this mistake the first time I ever did a R&R on a trans.

Just a Heads up.:thumbsup:
 






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