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Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers Questions related to non-modified 1995-2001 Explorer, Mountaineer, Ranger and '02+ Sports and Sport Trac. Problem solving, maintenance, TSB, service bulletins, owner reviews, specifications.

95 4.0 Rear Engine Seal

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Old 10-27-2008, 06:52 AM   #1
marragtop
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95 4.0 Rear Engine Seal

I have an oil leak that accumulates where the trans bolts to the engine. THis weekend I degreased everything, started it up, and got underneath it to watch the leak. The leak is definitely coming from where the trans mates with the engine. I'm assuming this is the rear engine seal that is leaking. Do you all agree? Also, how hard is it to replace? It's the 4.0, 4x4, AT, with 186k on it.




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Old 10-27-2008, 08:24 AM   #2
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If you are sure its oil and not trans fluid. Then its the rear main seal. This requires removing the trans. Make sure your PCV system is operation correctly, as a build up of pressure in the block will cause the main seal to leak.




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Old 10-27-2008, 08:49 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. I was reading my Chiltons and it says to remove the transmission and the transfer case also has to be removed. Does this sound right? I've pulled transmissions before, but not from 4wd vehicles (yet!).

Also, where is the PCV valve located on a 95 4.0? if the PCV has it's normal rattle, can I assume that that's OK?




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Old 10-27-2008, 09:05 AM   #4
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It is not necessary to remove the transfer case. It just makes it easier to handle by removing it. I personally wouldn't recommend removing it, it just makes for extra work. As for the PCV, this is a very inexpensive part. I recommend replacing it for insurance purposes, seeing your going through all the trouble of doing the main seal.




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Old 10-27-2008, 09:08 AM   #5
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I'm hoping that the PCV is clogged and maybe replacing it will reduce the pressure on the seal, so I won't have to replace the seal. I know it's a long shot, but I've got nothing to lose.




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Old 10-27-2008, 09:13 AM   #6
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I wouldn't count on that helping much at all. One good thing is you have an automatic trans, so its not like you are putting a clutch at risk.




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Old 10-27-2008, 09:18 AM   #7
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Has anyone had any good/bad experiences with any of the oil additives such as Barrs or Wynns engine stop leak? Generally, I refrain from using these types of products because I think there is a long term risk of additional damage. But with 186k on this Explorer, I'm not sure I want to go through the effort of putting the seal in. I think it's time I search for yet another Explorer.




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Old 10-27-2008, 09:23 AM   #8
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Band-Aid at best. If your lucky it may help for a while but its just delaying the inevitable.
Good luck.




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Old 10-27-2008, 09:58 AM   #9
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It is not necessary to remove the transfer case. It just makes it easier to handle by removing it. I personally wouldn't recommend removing it, it just makes for extra work. As for the PCV, this is a very inexpensive part. I recommend replacing it for insurance purposes, seeing your going through all the trouble of doing the main seal.
Ok. You have my attention. How are you going to remove the trans without removing the transfer case? Or are you suggesting he actually does remove it, but leaves it attached to the trans?

A rattling PCV valve should mean it's fine. But what's more likely to be an issue is the vacuum lines to it. Make sure they are good.

I would try and see if I could find the special tool for installing the rear main seal. The installed depth is critical...and having it absolutely square in the bore is critical. The tool ensures that. Many do it without it, but it's good piece of mind if you have it.




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Old 10-27-2008, 10:05 AM   #10
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Ok. You have my attention. How are you going to remove the trans without removing the transfer case? Or are you suggesting he actually does remove it, but leaves it attached to the trans?

A rattling PCV valve should mean it's fine. But what's more likely to be an issue is the vacuum lines to it. Make sure they are good.

I would try and see if I could find the special tool for installing the rear main seal. The installed depth is critical...and having it absolutely square in the bore is critical. The tool ensures that. Many do it without it, but it's good piece of mind if you have it.
Leave it attached. Special tool? Do you mean a seal driver? The old gasket and a mallet work fine. Just drive it in till its fully seated. It's not science.




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Old 10-27-2008, 10:08 AM   #11
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Is a normal trans jack going to be able to handle the trans with the transfer case attached? btw... this will be an on my back job..... no lift.




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Old 10-27-2008, 10:22 AM   #12
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I've done it 3 times without a lift and once with. I have a cheap JC Whitney trans jack, and a regular jack to help when aligning it to re-install the trans. Without a lift, I've done it twice with no help at all. If you can, get someone to help when trying to align the torque converter bolts to the flex plate. Also inspect your flex plate for cracks as there is an updated version. If it looks like its got a circular plate welded on the mounting area where the bolts go through its the old version the new one looks like its all one piece.




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Old 10-27-2008, 11:01 AM   #13
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Leave it attached. Special tool? Do you mean a seal driver? The old gasket and a mallet work fine. Just drive it in till its fully seated. It's not science.
That is not the procedure Ford calls for. They give a spec from flush and a tool to put it there. To each his own...but I've used the tools with great success.

I was hoping you were going to show us a way to replace the seal by leaving the transfer case intact...




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Old 10-27-2008, 11:35 AM   #14
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I thought they were designed to leak. Mine does. Just a little bit, not enough to go through the trouble to mess with it.
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Old 10-27-2008, 11:51 AM   #15
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I could probably live with the leak if I could convince my wife to park it on the asphalt street instead of our concrete driveway. Oil and concrete don't mix too well....




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Old 10-27-2008, 11:14 PM   #16
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That is not the procedure Ford calls for.
Procedures are for people who get paid by the hour.




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