Manual transmission issue. It's very difficult shifting into gears.

Expl0ring · 12-14-2008, 10:32 AM

Ok, just got a 1997 explorer sport (4.0) and was warned it has some shifting issues but not all the time. So yesterday it was shifting fine then all the sudden after i had been driving awhile it was a B!tch to get into first when at a complete stop (stick) so when i got to another stop i tested and it was a b1tch going into any gear from a stop, like i had to push really hard to get it to go in, but it didnt grind at all, or kick back out and it always went it, which i would think if the synchros were going that it would grind/kick out but it didnt do any of that. Also it only does it once the vehicle gets hot, and when i shut the vehicle off it goes into every gear fine, without any hesitation....

Any ideas? anybody ever have a problem like this? Havent really dug into it at all just wondering if anybody else ever experienced anything like this.

my98nnj · 12-15-2008, 12:46 PM

Sounds like the clutch isn't releasing all the way (drag).

Expl0ring · 12-18-2008, 07:20 PM

thats what i was thinking also, but i was told it could possibly be that the pilot bearing is hanging on the input shaft and not releasing...

**BrooklynBay** · 12-18-2008, 07:59 PM

I've moved, and renamed your thread to help you get more responses.

*gijoecam* · 12-19-2008, 09:42 AM

I'm with those guys... Either a clutch that's not releasing )could be a leaking slave cylinder or master cylinder or hose), or a pilot bearing siezing on the shaft. Neither one bodes well for it.

Try this: When it won't go into first, shut the engine off, put it in first, and re-start it. It's not a permanent fix, but it may let you limp it around for a bit.

-Joe

*Premier* · 12-19-2008, 09:52 AM

this is very typical of the mazda 5 speed. mine has been like this for over 60k miles. i put it into first when im coming to a stop, around 5mph. i have had my clutch replaced to try and fix it, but its not the clutch

91exploreron37 · 12-19-2008, 10:25 AM

Sounds like the slave cylinder is going bad. These transmissions are notorious for that.

Cstoliker · 12-21-2008, 05:21 AM

My 95 has had a similar problem but it is not as severe and is more consistent. Manley just have trouble getting into first while at a dead stop. So I pop it into first just before coming to a complete stop. This may work for you to.

FU MONSTER · 12-21-2008, 05:58 AM

stupid question but did you check the fluid reservior to make sure there was enough brake fluid in it. sounds like the begginings of a slave cylinder problem.good luck.

Expl0ring · 01-01-2009, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cstoliker

My 95 has had a similar problem but it is not as severe and is more consistent. Manley just have trouble getting into first while at a dead stop. So I pop it into first just before coming to a complete stop. This may work for you to.

Yes this works for me, and its pretty consistant, and as of last night i drove around for about 30 mins, and it was TERRIBLE shifting into any gear while moving also..

could it still be the slave?

*4x4junkie* · 01-01-2009, 09:27 PM

Definitely sounds like the clutch isn't releasing all the way.

A leaky slave is a likely cause, yes (allowing air to enter the hydraulic system from the reservoir).

Expl0ring · 01-02-2009, 02:40 PM

I just got back from like a 10 minute trip and wow... it is absolutely TERRIBLE now.. idk what changed from the other day.. but now i have to about BREAK my wrist off to get it into first.. and then once im moving its not as bad.. but i still have to pull or push extremely hard to get into any gear... also my check engine light has been on since the vehicle was brand new and the coolant temp gauge hasent worked.. and now the light is off, and the temp gauge is working... but shifting is horrible now..

wtf is going on??

HahnsB2 · 01-02-2009, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Expl0ring

I just got back from like a 10 minute trip and wow... it is absolutely TERRIBLE now.. idk what changed from the other day.. but now i have to about BREAK my wrist off to get it into first.. and then once im moving its not as bad.. but i still have to pull or push extremely hard to get into any gear... also my check engine light has been on since the vehicle was brand new and the coolant temp gauge hasent worked.. and now the light is off, and the temp gauge is working... but shifting is horrible now..

wtf is going on??

Everyone has already told you! You have a clutch hydraulics leak! Most likely the slave. It's not going to get better unless you fix it.

*gijoecam* · 01-03-2009, 07:28 AM

As already mentioned... You likely have an issue with the clutch actuation mechanism... be it a hydraulic leak, or a bad master or slave cylinder, the problem is not going to heal itself and will only get worse the longer you let it go. Now, in addition to your initial hydraulic issue, you're putting excessive wear on your synchros and other internal parts of the transmission itself by trying to force it into gear when it won't go. If you EVER need to use excessive force to get a transmission to engage, there's something very wrong, and delaying the repair will only make it worse!

Expl0ring · 01-07-2009, 12:25 PM

Ok, just got it to a shop yesterday to get the problem fixed, he drove it and said that its seems like a classic symptom of the slave cylinder being bad. He said that its a 6 hour job to get the transmission out. He said with labor, parts, fluids it will be $487 to do.

Does this sound like a reasonable price to replace the slave???

Blackhawk_Mech · 01-07-2009, 12:41 PM

Mine has problems with first and second, mostly being second. And grinds on reverse, all the other gears work fine though. Its at 160k, im assuming the tranny is original.

410Fortune · 01-07-2009, 12:41 PM

if you are replacing the slave cylinder you better damn well be putting in a new clutch and turning the flywheel

Clutch is CHEAP
$487 is VERY fair, get it in writing and make sure it includes a new clutch, I have seen it double by the time they are done

clutch job =
new slave cyl and throw out bearing
new clutch pack (driven disc, pressure plate)
new pilot bearing
turn the flywheel
+ labor

6 hours is about right, although I can do it in 4 myself with hand tools, I would expect a competent clutch shop to be able to do the full thing on a 4x4 in 3-4 hours max

Clutch is usually $500-1000 so your price seems very fair IF IT INCLUDES THE NEW CLUTCH
I like the LUK gold series clutch or centerforce

also your 5 speed may need a rebuild soon, many times the clutch is replaced and its still hard to get in the gears

= synchros

Expl0ring · 01-07-2009, 07:45 PM

No, $487 is to replace the slave cylinder, he said nothing about the clutch. The transmission shifted FINE, then the next day i couldnt get it into gear. im Sure the transmission is fine.

*wdwacht* · 04-03-2009, 10:59 AM

Greetings, I have exactly the same issues even with a new clutch just installed and the internals check out. It's a beast to get into gear when it doesn't want to go; warmed up. The transmission guys said everything looks good, gears and all. And there was no evidence of fluid leaks. I'm wondering if maybe it's something in the shift linkage that hangs up, otherwise I've not a clue. This is my biggest complaint with my otherwise reliable lil buddy. Any ideas? I'm having it rechecked next week. And if a solution comes forth then for just $19.95 and a free Turnip Twaddler, no make that two Turnip Twaddlers, plus free shipping I'll send you the solution.
enjoy the weekend,
Will

Quote:

Originally Posted by Expl0ring

Ok, just got a 1997 explorer sport (4.0) and was warned it has some shifting issues but not all the time. So yesterday it was shifting fine then all the sudden after i had been driving awhile it was a B!tch to get into first when at a complete stop (stick) so when i got to another stop i tested and it was a b1tch going into any gear from a stop, like i had to push really hard to get it to go in, but it didnt grind at all, or kick back out and it always went it, which i would think if the synchros were going that it would grind/kick out but it didnt do any of that. Also it only does it once the vehicle gets hot, and when i shut the vehicle off it goes into every gear fine, without any hesitation....

Any ideas? anybody ever have a problem like this? Havent really dug into it at all just wondering if anybody else ever experienced anything like this.

solitary ogre · 04-03-2009, 11:09 AM

my '91's slave is leaking slowly, i learned to put it in neutral while at a stop light or in slow traffic to ease the pressure off the hydraulics. instead of having to top up the reservoir with a couple ounces of brake fluid every week i now go about 3 weeks. eventually it will have to be done.
my '88 bronco ll has 389,000 kilometers on it and it still has the original master and slave unit in it.

12-14-2008, 10:32 AM	#1
Expl0ring Wannabe Elite Explorer Sikeston, Missouri '97 Sport Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 55 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Manual transmission issue. It's very difficult shifting into gears. Ok, just got a 1997 explorer sport (4.0) and was warned it has some shifting issues but not all the time. So yesterday it was shifting fine then all the sudden after i had been driving awhile it was a B!tch to get into first when at a complete stop (stick) so when i got to another stop i tested and it was a b1tch going into any gear from a stop, like i had to push really hard to get it to go in, but it didnt grind at all, or kick back out and it always went it, which i would think if the synchros were going that it would grind/kick out but it didnt do any of that. Also it only does it once the vehicle gets hot, and when i shut the vehicle off it goes into every gear fine, without any hesitation.... Any ideas? anybody ever have a problem like this? Havent really dug into it at all just wondering if anybody else ever experienced anything like this. __________________ 1997 Explorer sport, 2 dr, 5 spd, TT, shackle'D, 31" mud kings on black pro comp rock crawler rims, brown wire mod, lockers to come!-- "crawler" Audio: sony headunit, 2x12" rockford fosgate p3s, rockford fosgate t1000=144.8db, cobra 29, 102" whip. Lighting: 2 hella offroad lights

12-18-2008, 07:20 PM	#3
Expl0ring Wannabe Elite Explorer Sikeston, Missouri '97 Sport Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 55 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	thats what i was thinking also, but i was told it could possibly be that the pilot bearing is hanging on the input shaft and not releasing... __________________ 1997 Explorer sport, 2 dr, 5 spd, TT, shackle'D, 31" mud kings on black pro comp rock crawler rims, brown wire mod, lockers to come!-- "crawler" Audio: sony headunit, 2x12" rockford fosgate p3s, rockford fosgate t1000=144.8db, cobra 29, 102" whip. Lighting: 2 hella offroad lights

12-18-2008, 07:59 PM	#4
BrooklynBay Aerostar Forum Moderator Brooklyn, NY 88 89 93 95 96 Aerostars Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 45,688 Vehicle Specs	I've moved, and renamed your thread to help you get more responses. __________________ My list of useful threads. My photo gallery. My product reviews. My list of items for sale. Aerostar owners thread. Aerostar parts work in Explorers, Rangers, and Bronco II thread. History of the Aerostar thread. Aerostar Forum. New Members Forum. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Forum.

12-19-2008, 09:42 AM	#5
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 8,348 Vehicle Specs	I'm with those guys... Either a clutch that's not releasing )could be a leaking slave cylinder or master cylinder or hose), or a pilot bearing siezing on the shaft. Neither one bodes well for it. Try this: When it won't go into first, shut the engine off, put it in first, and re-start it. It's not a permanent fix, but it may let you limp it around for a bit. -Joe __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods *"We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

12-19-2008, 09:52 AM	#6
Premier Panzerfaust™ Utah 96 sport Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 5,925 Vehicle Specs	this is very typical of the mazda 5 speed. mine has been like this for over 60k miles. i put it into first when im coming to a stop, around 5mph. i have had my clutch replaced to try and fix it, but its not the clutch __________________ Rollover Posse Registry CV Death Toll: 4 33x12.50 ProComp Mud Terrains on 15x8.5 Centerline Rims 6" Suspension, Locked Front/Rear, 1354 Manual T-case ARB Snorkel, and Custom Pinstriping

12-15-2008, 12:46 PM	#2
my98nnj Wannabe Elite Explorer Boonton, New Jersey 1998 XLT Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1,294 Vehicle Specs	Sounds like the clutch isn't releasing all the way (drag).

12-19-2008, 10:25 AM	#7
91exploreron37 Wannabe Elite Explorer Bartlett Tn 91 Eddie Bauer Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,654 Vehicle Specs	Sounds like the slave cylinder is going bad. These transmissions are notorious for that. __________________ 91 Eddie Bunch 'O' Mods- 35's, winch, gears, blah blah www.southernxplorer.com

12-21-2008, 05:21 AM	#8
Cstoliker Wannabe Elite Explorer 1995 Explorer XLT Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 125 Vehicle Specs	My 95 has had a similar problem but it is not as severe and is more consistent. Manley just have trouble getting into first while at a dead stop. So I pop it into first just before coming to a complete stop. This may work for you to.

12-21-2008, 05:58 AM	#9
FU MONSTER Wannabe Elite Explorer pineville,nc 97 Explorer Sport Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 74 Vehicle Specs	stupid question but did you check the fluid reservior to make sure there was enough brake fluid in it. sounds like the begginings of a slave cylinder problem.good luck.

01-01-2009, 09:27 PM	#11
4x4junkie Elite Explorer So.Calif.(San Fernando Valley) '94 Ranger, '90 Bronco II Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 1,190 Vehicle Specs	Definitely sounds like the clutch isn't releasing all the way. A leaky slave is a likely cause, yes (allowing air to enter the hydraulic system from the reservoir). __________________ '90 Bronco II XLT 5" lift (Skyjacker jeep coils), locked D35 & 8.8", 5.13s, double T-case, 35x12.50s & cut fenders '94 Ranger XLT 6" Skyjacker, ARB D44 front, Detroit 8.8" rear, Atlas 4.3, 33s

01-02-2009, 02:40 PM	#12
Expl0ring Wannabe Elite Explorer Sikeston, Missouri '97 Sport Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 55 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I just got back from like a 10 minute trip and wow... it is absolutely TERRIBLE now.. idk what changed from the other day.. but now i have to about BREAK my wrist off to get it into first.. and then once im moving its not as bad.. but i still have to pull or push extremely hard to get into any gear... also my check engine light has been on since the vehicle was brand new and the coolant temp gauge hasent worked.. and now the light is off, and the temp gauge is working... but shifting is horrible now.. wtf is going on?? __________________ 1997 Explorer sport, 2 dr, 5 spd, TT, shackle'D, 31" mud kings on black pro comp rock crawler rims, brown wire mod, lockers to come!-- "crawler" Audio: sony headunit, 2x12" rockford fosgate p3s, rockford fosgate t1000=144.8db, cobra 29, 102" whip. Lighting: 2 hella offroad lights

01-03-2009, 07:28 AM	#14
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 8,348 Vehicle Specs	As already mentioned... You likely have an issue with the clutch actuation mechanism... be it a hydraulic leak, or a bad master or slave cylinder, the problem is not going to heal itself and will only get worse the longer you let it go. Now, in addition to your initial hydraulic issue, you're putting excessive wear on your synchros and other internal parts of the transmission itself by trying to force it into gear when it won't go. If you EVER need to use excessive force to get a transmission to engage, there's something very wrong, and delaying the repair will only make it worse! __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods *"We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

01-07-2009, 12:25 PM	#15
Expl0ring Wannabe Elite Explorer Sikeston, Missouri '97 Sport Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 55 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Ok, just got it to a shop yesterday to get the problem fixed, he drove it and said that its seems like a classic symptom of the slave cylinder being bad. He said that its a 6 hour job to get the transmission out. He said with labor, parts, fluids it will be $487 to do. Does this sound like a reasonable price to replace the slave??? __________________ 1997 Explorer sport, 2 dr, 5 spd, TT, shackle'D, 31" mud kings on black pro comp rock crawler rims, brown wire mod, lockers to come!-- "crawler" Audio: sony headunit, 2x12" rockford fosgate p3s, rockford fosgate t1000=144.8db, cobra 29, 102" whip. Lighting: 2 hella offroad lights

01-07-2009, 12:41 PM	#16
Blackhawk_Mech Wannabe Elite Explorer Killeen, Tx 97 Sport 3 Door 4.0 SOHC Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 35 Vehicle Specs	Mine has problems with first and second, mostly being second. And grinds on reverse, all the other gears work fine though. Its at 160k, im assuming the tranny is original.

01-07-2009, 12:41 PM	#17
410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Crawlorado B2 Mod Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 22,099 Vehicle Specs	if you are replacing the slave cylinder you better damn well be putting in a new clutch and turning the flywheel Clutch is CHEAP $487 is VERY fair, get it in writing and make sure it includes a new clutch, I have seen it double by the time they are done clutch job = new slave cyl and throw out bearing new clutch pack (driven disc, pressure plate) new pilot bearing turn the flywheel + labor 6 hours is about right, although I can do it in 4 myself with hand tools, I would expect a competent clutch shop to be able to do the full thing on a 4x4 in 3-4 hours max Clutch is usually $500-1000 so your price seems very fair IF IT INCLUDES THE NEW CLUTCH I like the LUK gold series clutch or centerforce also your 5 speed may need a rebuild soon, many times the clutch is replaced and its still hard to get in the gears = synchros __________________ 96 Explorer daily driver build-1996 XLT 5.0L AWD to 4x4 conversion complete on 33's 88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread My Bronco II - 1988 Bronco II 4x4 V8 on 35's - registry and updates Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted

01-07-2009, 07:45 PM	#18
Expl0ring Wannabe Elite Explorer Sikeston, Missouri '97 Sport Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 55 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	No, $487 is to replace the slave cylinder, he said nothing about the clutch. The transmission shifted FINE, then the next day i couldnt get it into gear. im Sure the transmission is fine. __________________ 1997 Explorer sport, 2 dr, 5 spd, TT, shackle'D, 31" mud kings on black pro comp rock crawler rims, brown wire mod, lockers to come!-- "crawler" Audio: sony headunit, 2x12" rockford fosgate p3s, rockford fosgate t1000=144.8db, cobra 29, 102" whip. Lighting: 2 hella offroad lights

04-03-2009, 11:09 AM	#20
solitary ogre Wannabe Elite Explorer Surrey, B.C. '91 explorer, '88 bll Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 185 Vehicle Specs	my '91's slave is leaking slowly, i learned to put it in neutral while at a stop light or in slow traffic to ease the pressure off the hydraulics. instead of having to top up the reservoir with a couple ounces of brake fluid every week i now go about 3 weeks. eventually it will have to be done. my '88 bronco ll has 389,000 kilometers on it and it still has the original master and slave unit in it.