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Ford Ranger - Mazda B-Series Forum Ford Ranger and Mazda B Series forums. The Mazda B2300 B3000 and B4000 are clones of the Ford Ranger, with all systems the same. The only differences are trim and a few body parts. This forum discusses Ford Ranger and Mazda B series specific issues. Owners of the older Mazda B2000 B2200 and B2600 are welcome as well.

Ford Ranger with a clutch problem.

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Old 01-18-2009, 11:45 AM   #1
dfeedam
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Ford Ranger with a clutch problem.

I've got a 1999 ford ranger. I spent $800 to get the slave cylinder and master cylinder replaced. Now I've driven 500 miles away from where my mechanic is and it wont go into gear. The mechanic told me to bleed the clutch. I've found the valve but am not sure which reservoir to put the fluid in. I just need to get back home so I can go to the garage where they did the work and have him fix it properly. can anybody help?
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:55 AM   #2
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...This may be of some help...
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c1528018f01c





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Old 01-18-2009, 01:35 PM   #3
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:11 PM   #4
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clutch Hydraulics problem

As you can see on Tbars4 diagram the clutch master is at an odd angle. Because of that when replacing it they develop air pockets, the cure is to unbolt it from firewall and bleed upside down to remove the air pocket. And yes it is a pain to do, so you need a knowledgeable mechanic. Good luck, Jim
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:34 PM   #5
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Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread to the Ranger section.
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Old 01-30-2009, 12:24 AM   #6
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Sorry for stealing the thread, but if I have good pressure in the pedal but the slave blew will I need to invert the master cylinder when replacing the slave or just bench bleed the slave?
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Old 01-30-2009, 01:47 PM   #7
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Clutch hydraulic problem

Because of the type of connection at the slave you should not need to remove the cl/master, bleed the slave and reconnect and that should do it. If you get a soft peddle bleed the whole system without inverting master. Good luck, Jim
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Old 01-30-2009, 01:49 PM   #8
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thanks
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:33 PM   #9
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No pressure in clutch Petal.

I replaced my clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and slave cylinder all at once. Now I have NO pressure in my clutch petal now. I've already blead the new slave cylinder (for almost over hour), but to no avail. (? spelling).
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:51 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 2001Ranger2.5 View Post
I replaced my clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and slave cylinder all at once. Now I have NO pressure in my clutch petal now. I've already blead the new slave cylinder (for almost over hour), but to no avail. (? spelling).
You might need to bleed the clutch master and it is a pain. Because of the cl/masters downward angle air tends to collect at the top, according to most books you should not have to bleed because of the line connection. Do it anyway, you have to remove the cl/master and hold it line end up then reinstall and bleed the system at the slave. Good luck, it worked for me.l
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:56 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by bfmilkman View Post
You might need to bleed the clutch master and it is a pain. Because of the cl/masters downward angle air tends to collect at the top, according to most books you should not have to bleed because of the line connection. Do it anyway, you have to remove the cl/master and hold it line end up then reinstall and bleed the system at the slave. Good luck, it worked for me.l
Thanks Milkman, I'll give it a shot. What I don't get is how the air would've got in there. I never let the fluid level drop, and the line disconnect fitting would've prevented air from entering. Oh well. Thanks for the advice, here goes nothing.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:16 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Tbars4 View Post
Hi, I have had intermittent clutch not disengaging on a 93 Ranger for over ten years now. It will always be OK when starting it in gear and shift vary smoothly into every gear but once I let the out of any gear to neutral it will not go back into any gear. When the truck is moving and have to hold the clutch in at red lights it will idle without dropping rpm. Restarting in first gear and it runs free again until I let out the clutch the first time in any gear or netural. I inverted the master today then bled the slave and still have a good pedal but wont disengage.

Second try to fix dragging clutch.
Changed the MC and bench blead it with the line and gravity blead the slave. It now works more often but for some reason the clutch still spins the gears most of the time with the pedal depressed only in netural.

Changed the tranny oil.

The clutch disengagees when I put the pedal in at stops with the Tach RPM NOT dropping but as soon as I put it in Netural it wont go back into any gear because all the gears are spinning. A partly engaged clutch. Will a week pressure plate or disc springs do this or a woren out throw out bearing do this? The slave is not leaking and seems to be moving the arm enough. Any help would be appreciated before having to drop the tranny.
Thanks

Last edited by clutcher; 06-03-2010 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 06-06-2010, 06:54 PM   #13
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I have had this problem for a while with my explorer. I have never been able to completely fix the problem, but I have made some improvements (sounds like your situation).

A local clutch shop had some reccomendations that helped me:
1-never machine the flywheel. Always put in a new one. Machining it only moves clutch diaphram/ pressure plate further from the slave, making it more difficult to disengage

2- polish the tranny input shaft. prior to install. This is done to prevent binding of the clutch disk upon disengagement, causing the clutch to not engage.

These couple of things helped my situation, but it is not completely fixed. IT has auctually been worse lately and I wonder if there is a leak or something in mine. The bad news is that I just picked up another 91 explorer and it has the same problem!




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Old 06-07-2010, 10:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirby N. View Post
I have had this problem for a while with my explorer. I have never been able to completely fix the problem, but I have made some improvements (sounds like your situation).

A local clutch shop had some reccomendations that helped me:
1-never machine the flywheel. Always put in a new one. Machining it only moves clutch diaphram/ pressure plate further from the slave, making it more difficult to disengage

2- polish the tranny input shaft. prior to install. This is done to prevent binding of the clutch disk upon disengagement, causing the clutch to not engage.

These couple of things helped my situation, but it is not completely fixed. IT has auctually been worse lately and I wonder if there is a leak or something in mine. The bad news is that I just picked up another 91 explorer and it has the same problem!
Thanks for responding. Having never orriginal clutch wearing down may be a big part of it. However after replacing the MC I noticed hose check valve letting fluid through so I had to gravity blead the slave after I bench blead the MC and installed it. Do you think a falty check valve in the hose coulpling
may have anything to do with it?
I seem to have a full pedal. After a few days it got a little better! It could be from the new tranny oil slowing down the gears from spinning in netural and the combination with the MC made it better? While in netural If I wait a couple seconds holding the clutch in before shifting into gear most of the time it does go into gear eaisly now like the sincros are working better?? It's not perfect but I will hold up at pulling the trans off. Next I will try pumping up the MC pedal, holding it to the floor and letting the fluid blast out the slave bleader to see if that may help any more. It only has 165,000 on the 93 Ranger so I can't complain. The 4 cylinder, two distributor, with 8 dual point plugs are orriginal and never had a tune up yet and my gas milage is the same as new! For about 6 months when I had to hold the clutch in for 5 min stop lights I would smell a burnt plastic or resin smell thinking that the throwout bearing was frying but it stopped doing that. ?

Last edited by clutcher; 06-07-2010 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 06-09-2010, 04:04 AM   #15
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I have come to a semi conclusion that either pressure plate or clutch disc is not releasing all the way at times. Could a strating fluid spray be used as cleaner or is there any clutch cleaner thay may break up any gunk that may be on the shaft or spring loaded parts?
Thanks
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:40 PM   #16
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If I was betting man I would say that I could fix the issue for 3 bux. I'll give you a hint. It's made out of nylon and is 1/16th of an inch thick. I actually just fixed this issue on my f350 with a couple of plumbing parts.




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Old 08-03-2010, 12:14 AM   #17
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If I was betting man I would say that I could fix the issue for 3 bux. I'll give you a hint. It's made out of nylon and is 1/16th of an inch thick. I actually just fixed this issue on my f350 with a couple of plumbing parts.
But do you have to take the tranny off to fix it? It is not the plastic shim for the pedal pin linlage. one guess?

Last edited by clutcher; 08-03-2010 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:34 AM   #18
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nah, this is a smack your head fix. The ford pedal assembly is a fantastic thing. First thing is pull the pushrod that goes from the post on the pedal assembly to the clutch M/C. It is held on by a circlip. The rod eye rides on a nylon bushing between it and the post.If you press on the pedal an you see ANY movement of that post prior to the rod moving you need to put a new bushing in or the clutch will not fully release no matter what you replace down stream of the rod. Seriously, I just had this issue and mine had about 1/32 of wear. You can buy the bushing from ford or you can fix it right. I took a 3/8th copper elbow, cut off the side the fit in the eye and used it for the bushing after a little sanding and tweaking. Perfect




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Old 08-03-2010, 01:02 AM   #19
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nah, this is a smack your head fix. The ford pedal assembly is a fantastic thing. First thing is pull the pushrod that goes from the post on the pedal assembly to the clutch M/C. It is held on by a circlip. The rod eye rides on a nylon bushing between it and the post.If you press on the pedal an you see ANY movement of that post prior to the rod moving you need to put a new bushing in or the clutch will not fully release no matter what you replace down stream of the rod. Seriously, I just had this issue and mine had about 1/32 of wear. You can buy the bushing from ford or you can fix it right. I took a 3/8th copper elbow, cut off the side the fit in the eye and used it for the bushing after a little sanding and tweaking. Perfect
Thought of that after the old one broke as I pryed it out and replaced it along with a new master but still have the same problem. Good pedal but incomplete disengagement most of the time. I just get used to craming it in gear now.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:24 PM   #20
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My new explorer is doing the same stuff now. I ran across this Youtube Video. I think it may help you to take out the master and bleed in accrodance with the video. I think I will do the same on my truck.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc




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