Parking brake pads?

I researched parking brake pads for a 97 x and got nothing.
Is this a factory only item to purchase because I can't seem to get any at my local parts store.

Also I heard that it is a major PITA to install.

Part#s

rookieshooter said:

I researched parking brake pads for a 97 x and got nothing.
Is this a factory only item to purchase because I can't seem to get any at my local parts store.

Also I heard that it is a major PITA to install.

Click to expand...

Raybestos Part# 701PG about $20 -parking brake SHOES, not pads
Raybestos Part# H7299 about $15 -hardware kit (new springs,clips,etc..) - yes you should change these too while you're there
Both of these part#'s are good at Rock Auto or Advance Auto Parts. You should also be able to use them to cross reference to another brand or at other stores

Oh, and yes. They are a huge headache to put in, for me anyway. I hate drum brakes, and that's basically what these are. Little drum brakes inside the rotor hat. It's pretty easy to get the first shoe on, but because of limited space, and the axle flange getting in the way, the second is very difficult to get the springs on. There is just no room to work. You'll be throwing tools before it's over! It might actually be worth it to just drain the rear, and pop out the axle shafts! I know it seems extreme, but it will give you more room to work.

Take the axle shafts out. You will save time in the long run.

I tried changing them with the shafts in and eventually said F it and pulled them. There is no room to work at all if you leave the shafts in.

rookieshooter said:

I researched parking brake pads for a 97 x and got nothing.
Is this a factory only item to purchase because I can't seem to get any at my local parts store.

Also I heard that it is a major PITA to install.

Click to expand...

I had to change my rear axle seals. While I had the brakes apart, I installed new shoes, and spring kit. I had no probs whatsoever replacing them. 10 mins aside tops, prolly less. AND it was my first time!

You can do it, if I can do it!

I changed them a long time ago without removing the axle shafts. You need a special tool, IIRC. The special tool is a set of needle nosed Vice Grips.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72017&highlight=Vice+Grip

I 3rd pulling the axle shafts if you can, it will make things much easier.

Make sure you have a good pair of mechanix gloves and full impact eye protection(covering the sides) for this job if you do it with the axle in(or out too). Do not do the job without this, you are dealing with springs that could snap anywhere, and your fingers could be pinched badly. Its not dangerous with the right equipment.

You will put the shoes in with the (one) rear spring attached and work them in behind the axle. This is where the gloves come in. You have to pull the spring and shoe halves to get them to sit properly. The spring does need some stretching to get into place.

Those needle nose locking pliers help pulling the springs into their holes. I used these:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33202, probably locking would have been a bit faster.

All metal linkages should be cleaned of rust and lubed with synthetic brake grease. Get a new hardware kit with clips, and do not get store brand $10 shoes. I had to replace them cause they were all cracked up. I got credit for them, have bendix in there now, great stopping power.

Be sure to adjust them when you are finished. If you don't, you may be doing the job again

Thanks for all the really good tips guys, So glad I asked before attempting. Since this is the axle I took out of my 97 X that I'm parting out, and will eventually be put under my B2 with 4 link coilovers, I'll pull the axels out first. Might as well do the new bearings, seals and parking brake shoes all at the same time.
it's sitting up on jack stands as we talk LOL.

I know all to well about safety glasses and brake springs. I need a pair of those needle nose vice grips anyway. They always come in handy. My local welding shop carries them and I need to go there anyway to get another full face protection. I like them better then safety glasses. I don't know how many times when I'm using a cutting wheel that a small piece of crap comes in the side of the glasses and ricochets around untill hit lands in my eye.

rookieshooter said:

Thanks for all the really good tips guys, So glad I asked before attempting. Since this is the axle I took out of my 97 X that I'm parting out, and will eventually be put under my B2 with 4 link coilovers, I'll pull the axels out first. Might as well do the new bearings, seals and parking brake shoes all at the same time.
it's sitting up on jack stands as we talk LOL.

I know all to well about safety glasses and brake springs. I need a pair of those needle nose vice grips anyway. They always come in handy. My local welding shop carries them and I need to go there anyway to get another full face protection. I like them better then safety glasses. I don't know how many times when I'm using a cutting wheel that a small piece of crap comes in the side of the glasses and ricochets around untill hit lands in my eye.

Click to expand...

Safety first, and we have to train the newbies well

rookieshooter said:

Thanks for all the really good tips guys, So glad I asked before attempting. Since this is the axle I took out of my 97 X that I'm parting out, and will eventually be put under my B2 with 4 link coilovers, I'll pull the axels out first. Might as well do the new bearings, seals and parking brake shoes all at the same time.
it's sitting up on jack stands as we talk LOL.

I know all to well about safety glasses and brake springs. I need a pair of those needle nose vice grips anyway. They always come in handy. My local welding shop carries them and I need to go there anyway to get another full face protection. I like them better then safety glasses. I don't know how many times when I'm using a cutting wheel that a small piece of crap comes in the side of the glasses and ricochets around untill hit lands in my eye.

Click to expand...

Rookie,

We have parking brake pads at BrakePadWarehouse.com and you can use promo code 'explorer' for 5% discount.

Parking brakes down to bare metal...you think

That gray stuff, was contained in a full can of primer until my chipping hammer slipped from my hand while banging some slag off this rear. Of course the sharp end went right into the can. It may not have been so bad, if it was not setting in front of a 500 watt work light that was heating it up and giving me some good light to work on the rear LOL
I mean to tell ya, it went everywhere, on my Bronco, the walls, my work table, my safety glass that I had on BTW.



But worst of all my beloved NB shoes. Thank goodness my cat who usually keeps me company in the garage was outside sleeping in the sunshine.

Getting back on subject about the parking brake shoes. Thanks for the input guys.
I can't imagine what it would have been like if I did this while the rear was under the truck and axles in.



And here it is done.
This rear is the linked Coilover that I will put under the B2.
Going to post this on my Build thread also.

Lucky you wore those safety glasses!

That is one sexy parking brake! Make sure your brake cables have no binds in them and they move freely. Test that your brake holds the truck under moderate acceleration until about 1200RPM and you have some pedal reserve. That is how we do it here.

Seriously? Thats a lot of work to change parking break shoes......I did them just fine with my $5 6 piece set of plyers from Harbor Freight without taking anything extra apart. You guys could always have your wifes come out and give you a hand if you need it.......lol

xFatcatx said:

Seriously? Thats a lot of work to change parking break shoes......I did them just fine with my $5 6 piece set of plyers from Harbor Freight without taking anything extra apart. You guys could always have your wifes come out and give you a hand if you need it.......lol

Click to expand...

You mean to tell me I did not have to take that whole rear out of the X

Are they the vice grip kinda of plyers with long nose?

That's a good tip 96.

Carguy3J said:

Raybestos Part# 701PG about $20 -parking brake SHOES, not pads
Raybestos Part# H7299 about $15 -hardware kit (new springs,clips,etc..) - yes you should change these too while you're there
Both of these part#'s are good at Rock Auto or Advance Auto Parts. You should also be able to use them to cross reference to another brand or at other stores

Click to expand...

Will these part #'s work for a 2001 Explorer XLS 4WD?

I know this thread is pretty old, but I have a related problem. First I have to agree that changing the pads without pulling the axle out is really a pain. I am usually a cool headed person, but I really got angry and wanted to throw something. LOL

Anyway, my problem is this, I replaced the pads and now I get a pretty bad rubbing noise when I am moving 5-20MPH and turn left or right. It is most pronounced if I make a Uturn type of manuver. It happens in forward or reverse out of may driveway. After removing the rotor again and inspecting I see nothing installed wrong. I have adjusted the pads tighter and much looser (to try and remove the noise) but it still makes noise. What it appears to be is the axle moving in and out of the shaft when I turn and causing the pads to rub or something. I would expect the pads to rub and not make a noise, after all they are designed to rub and bring vehicle to a stop - lol. I am guessing that I will need to drain and remove the axle shaft to see if i can tighten the amount of play up so that the rotor when it is attached does not move in and out (maybe one eighth of an inch... could be quarter inch i suppose) I am not leaking any lube out of shaft. The rubbing noise that it makes resembles what rubber pads might sound like when they get wet and kinds pulsate and shake. Any ideas would be great.

clarkede, have you freed up the actuating levers? 1Aauto has a good video over on YouTube on how to do this.

I am researching it now and have not found the video you refer to. However, from my quick research I have one question. My Explorer has 4 wheel disk brakes with the parking brake being inside a combo-disk/drum. Inside the drum is a manual brake assembly with no piston. There is an adjuster with a sprocket on it for allowing the pads to wear our yet stay in proximity of the drum. I'm sure you are aware of this, but what I'm getting at is what is this actuating lever and how could it affect a throbbing and grabbing as I turn the vehicle? I am going to open the drums tonight and see if I have missed something again. BTW, I have been driving on it for weeks now and it does not pose any risk that I am aware of, but it is quite noticeable when I turn and also a bit embarrassing. Thanks for your help. If you can give me the search criteria for the utube video you are talking about that would be great or a direct link. Thanks again!!!!

Here you go...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn2EIx6Yujw
Sorry, I should have linked that earlier.
I'm not sure if this applies to your situation, but the reason I am bringing it up is because the lever is notorious for rusting (seal no good).