Ranger bed removal.

[Phat_kaw]

OK once u get to the gas tank there are hoses/lines goin into the tank, how do you disconnect them safely?? I tried before but couldnt get them to come apart which being on my back with 2 inches to work didnt help matters.

[christopherrobin]

got my 94 Ranger smogged and passed everything but fuel evap test any ideas? getttin ready to pull the bed and take a look but not sure what im looking for exactly
any help would be greatly appreciated
thnks

[Tbars4]

...click the link in post #12 of this thread..

[corkey]

i just put a big long power bar on my bolts, and snapped them off, the time spent messing with and having a tough time with them is offset by the cost of a couple of bolts that won't undo, and some of the clips that hold them on,

some came out, some broke,, ,,

[top4874]

Very useful information guys.

I will be removing my bed to replace my filler hose but the bed in my truck is spray in. Any tips on what I can do to make removal easier?

Thanks!

[JetskiMark]

Welcome to the forum. (Like I'm such an active member.)

I would thoroughly cut the bed liner material out from around the washers. You should also remove all of the material from the inside of the Torx head. You want the bit to fully seat into the bolt. You should also spray penetrating oil on the bolt threads several times at least a half an hour before you break the bolts loose.

I recently did another one and I followed the same method that I posted earlier with the exception that I lifted the bed up with my shoulders and put the 4x4 piece in by myself. The bed is surprisingly light when just one side is lifted.

Put the rear axle on jack stands and remove the left rear wheel.
Remove the gas cap and the three small screws that hold the filler to the bed.
Remove the three bolts on the drivers side of the bed with a t-55 Torx bit.
Loosen the other three so that there is about a half of an inch between the head and the bed.
Lift the side of the bed and place a piece of 4x4 on the frame rail to hold the bed up.
I also removed the inner splash guard.
Remove the hose clamp holding the filler to the tank. I used a 1/4" drive 5/16" socket and a ratchet. The clamp is molded into the OEM hose, loosen it thoroughly. The hardest part was pulling the crusty hose off of the tank.
Use anti-seize or grease on the bolts to make future removal easier.

Good luck and be safe.

Originally Posted by top4874

Very useful information guys.

I will be removing my bed to replace my filler hose but the bed in my truck is spray in. Any tips on what I can do to make removal easier?

Thanks!

[top4874]

Getting the bolts out was much easier than I thought it would be. I took a utility knife and cut around the blot heads and peeled the linex off. Then the bolts came right out with some elbow grease.

I started out trying to just raise one side of the bed, but there was no way I could get the hose off. So I had a friend come over and we picked the bed up and turned it 45* and I was able to get right to everything. (note to self, remember this if the fuel pump ever goes out). Scored the old tube and it came right off.

Now the hard part started. Getting the new tube on was much to difficult to do from underneath or the side. You really need to get over the opening to get the new tube on as it is a tight fit.

All things considered it was much easier than I thought. If you have a friend to help you shift the bed it will take an hour tops to change the filler tube.

Thanks for the help! I am about to start fixing up a 92 Ranger I bought from work, So I will be browsing here a lot.

[FORD SUV GUY]

I both removed my bed at one time and replaced the filler neck on my "98" ranger. I removed the bed to gain access to my fuel pump assembly becasuse in Vermont w/all the salt n RUST you dont just "drop" your tank. Often times here dropping the tank means all new straps and possibly even skid plates, if you care about skid plates anyway.(seems most here do not) As far as my filler neck I neither removed or loosend my bed to gain access. I simply removed the left rear wheel n had all the access I needed? I do not remember it being very difficult either, EVEN WITH all the rusty bolts/clamps. Also I got my filler neck from a scrape yard in good condition for arnd $40. To protect it I painted mine w/POR15 'rust preventive paint"(AWESOME STUFF and can be applied OVER rust)and coated it w/self ething primer. Workd great. The neck takes ALOT of abuse from the elements do to its location..

[Dirkb]

Hi, I'm new here and my first reply.
I have a 1998 Mazda b2500 sx with the rear spring bracket and hangers rusted away including the Frame. I took the box off and broke 3 of the torx bolts even though I spent a week lubricating the bolts. Good thing I took the box off because the filler tube was badly rusted. That brings me to my question I noticed the bolts are different lengths. where do the shorter bolts go?

[Tbars4]

..Let me know if this thread is helpful in answering your question..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...&highlight=bed

[Dirkb]

Thanks Tbar, that's the info I needed