C1440 ABS Code

O.K, so I read many of the threads concerning this if not all and this is what I found, holpfully it will help others.
Wife's 03 Explorer pops up an ABS light about 3-5 times week. Then it goes away for a week and then come back. So I go to a co-worker who has access to and ABS scanner, and in less then five minutes he gets a code out of the vehicle.

C1440 Pressure Transducer Main / Primary signal Faulted

He goes to his online little helpers and finds out its the so called pressure transducer, he goes out to vehicle and points at the sensor, switch whatever on the front top of master cylinder and says change this out and your good. I ask what about beeding the system or anything he laughs and says just be quick.:notworthy
So call my local small mom and pop mechanic who is very honest and does the work when I can't handle it. I ask about the C1440 code, and he says easy five minute job and there should be no need to bleed brakes something I can do myself, no need to have us do it.
I call all auto parts stores, no stocky. Call stealership, parts guy says he has six in stock and they are $19.93. I ask for my local public employee discount, part is now $15.94.
I race home get a 7/8 deep socket and change part in about 2-3 minutes. No fuss no muss no bleeding no leaking.
Test drive car, give back to wife to drive and so far no more codes.
Parts guy at Ford says they keep about 6-10 in stock as the are very common to go out and they replace about 5 a week at $200 a pop. Parts guy calls it a "criuse control safety switch" that ties into ABS system.

Ford Part: 3L3Z-9F924-AB Description: SWITCH 873966
Box Info : ONE
SW-6349
3L3Z-9F924-AB
SWITCH

(LIST PRICE 19.93)

Same exact thing happened to me, did the exact same thing too.
By chance did you change your brakes recently???? i did mine about a month or two before, i wonder when you back the pad off with a c-clamp if somehow the pressure at the sensor is causing it to fail.

jrford said:

Same exact thing happened to me, did the exact same thing too.
By chance did you change your brakes recently???? i did mine about a month or two before, i wonder when you back the pad off with a c-clamp if somehow the pressure at the sensor is causing it to fail.

Click to expand...

JR now that you mention it, I did change my brakes and backed off the pad with a c clamp.

I need to change mine out.. lol.. I've having the same problem

Could be, I had just changed the rear pads about a week or two prior to the light acting up. My wife is heavy on brakes, the truck has about 67,000 miles and I have changed the front pads twice with two new rotors last time, and have never had this issue. I have always used the brake pad tool with metal pad like and thumb screw, but pushs the piston in the same way as a c-clamp. I always remove the cap when doing so to relieve the pressure and I monitor to make sure no fluid spills. If the fluid is about to spill I have and old turkey baster just for the brake jobs. According to local mechanic it seems to be a very common part to fail with a couple of TBS' on this part.

My 2006 Ford Explorer also had the ABS indicator coming on intermittently. Shut the vechile off and it would not come on the next time you started it until you drove it for a while. I noticed that if I was going 30 mph and floored it, I could get the ABS light to come every time.

I scanned the vechile with an Innova 3150 and found the C1440 Pressure Transducer error. Reading this web site I realized that my vechile problem was identical to those mentioned here.

Local part suppliers do not carry this component, had to go to Ford. The Ford Part Number 3L3Z-9F924-AB cost me $25.58. They had several on hand, appartently they replace them frequently?

Was easy to replace and I have tried several times to try and get the indicator to come on, no problems.

Thanks for the help. This episode paid for my scanner.

Good info here. I just had my ABS light come on this evening. So I'm trying to get everything right here so that I can narrow down the possibilites of the problem. With the ABS light on the cruise should NOT work thus making it the fualty switch. Am I also correct in saying the Autozone or parts houses scanner will not scan ABS if its a Check engine light scanner. Thanks for all your good advice and help and I will let you know what comes of it this weekend. Take care
Brian

Back to you Brian

The local auto store scanners are typically just for Check Engine Light fault codes. The ABS codes are separate and require a scanner capable of reading them. That is why I included the scanner manufacturer and model number.

You are correct, when the ABS light is on your cruise should not work.

If you ABS light goes off by itself, and comes on occasionally, maybe try my "floor it at 30mph test" and see if you can get it to come back on repeatedly.

If your fault mode appears similar enough, I would risk the buying a $25 sensor and see if that fixes it and not buy the $153 scanner. I have a weakness for tools, your call.

thanks for the info.

I have a 04 explorer and my ABS light was always on. I just changed the sensor on top of the rear diff.
You guys are saying the light came on here and there, not always on.hmm

But i will keep this in mind if the light comes on again.

So you are saying when doing brakes, dont use a clamp to compress the caliber? How would you get it done then? I havent done brakes yet. Soon though.

Thanks.

Response to Jakedrew

Yes, my ABS light would come on and the next time I would start the vechile it would be off. May go an entire trip or two, and the next trip it would come on again.

I also recently changed front brakes pads, not sure of the connection, just comparing comments from others that have experienced the same series of events.

As I mentioned earlier, I replaced the sensor on the master brake cylinder. I took this sensor apart and found a very small trace of oil inside the switch cavity, the electrical contacts were also black, I don't know if this is from brake fluid contamination, or typical after several years of being used. When replacing the brakes I did push the caliper back in with a C-lamp. I had the resivoir cap open, so it should not have allowed excess pressure to develop.

All I know is the problem has gone away by replacing the sensor and it only cost me $25.

ABS light on Fault code C1440

I had the ABS light come on. Code "C1440"
Installed new brake switch SW-6349 Cost about $20.00 Took about 1 minute
Cleared fault. Problem solved.

sounds like the rear ABS sensor is not too much of a common problem. like i said, my abs stayed on no matter what.

But thanks for the info on other sensor.

So Easy To Do!!!!!!!!!!

This worked fantastic. Got the code from my local mech. today (Free). Goggled it, found this thread. Called the local rip off dealership and paid $40 for the part. 2 minutes to install, and took the explorer out for a 45 minute drive and did everything that would set it off before and no ABS light. You guys freaking ROCK!!!!!!!! And it is also noteworthy that i had all four of my rotors and brake pads changed 5 months ago, problem began shortly after. Dont really know what that has to do with it, but it seems to be a relation.

ABS Light

I have a 2004 Ford Explorer. The ABS light went on now and then so I tried changing the switch and it has worked so far. Very easy to do. Thanks for the help.

So I have the switch and I got under there to look for where it is but I can't seem to find it. Any hints here?

This is on an 04 xlt 4wd.

Its on the master cylinder.

doh. Well, I'm glad I'm here then. I don't know my head from a hole in the wall apparently. Thank you!

Just my thought on the cruise switch: it's there to detect the pressure of the brake fluid, it can take more than what you give it when you tromp on the brakes as hard as you can; so I don't think you can damage it by C-clamping the cylinder in, cap on or off. It's just a coincidence if you've recently replaced your brake pads.

Had ABS light come on 1997 Explorer 2D Sport 4X4. Same code. Ignored light for months. Then driving one day I heard SNAP, and the SUV slam's into the curb. Thought I busted a ball joint. Then miraculously I tried steering and pulled the vehicle off the curb and drove it home without looking to see what broke. Got home and found the passenger side wheel hub SMOKED, I mean GONE, bearing, everything. There is an ABS sensor wired into the front wheel hubs on the 4X4 models (by wired into I mean permanently attached when ford built the car). Looked to me Like the entire unit had to be swapped to change the sensor anyways. About a month later ABS light on again. Same code. Replaced driver side hub and sensor assembly. Code went away. Not to shill but Auto Zone sold the wheel hub replacement kit $80-$90 each side. They only sell a hub assembly, not the sensor and wheel hub separately. The hub assemblies are different so using the old hub off the other side was not an option. You can tell if the hub is the culprit by raising the wheel off the ground (with vehicle in park) and trying to move the wheel. If the tire moves at all, Inspect hub assembly. Hopefully this helps someone out there. . .

I also found that changing the wheel hub provides a great opportunity to replace the brake pads and rotors if needed. Your going to have to remove them anyways to remove the hub from the vehicle. . .

1) ABS Code C1440, Try This And Save $32 or $42, Cruise Control Deactivation Switch (On Front Of Master Cylinder) Is Faulty, Stuck Open, But May Be Able To Repair Instead Of Replace, Because The Hydraulically Controlled Plunger Inside The Switch Is Stuck In The Open Position Due To Contamination, Maybe Due To Pushing The Caliper Pistons Back During A Brake Job (Did You Do Rear Brakes Recently?) 2) Use an ohmmeter, unplug the 2 wire connector and test across the 2 terminals on the switch, reading should be 5 ohms or less, if it's an open circuit with no pressure on the brake pedal, the plunger may be stuck. 3)Stop. Hammer Time! Light taps on switch may help. Remove switch, put it in a vice upside down, use ohmmeter, blow gun with compressed air (if available) spray lube, very stiff wire or a small drift, punch, or screwdriver. push tool into the small hole, (use force) and lube several times while reading ohmmeter. You should feel the plunger move and get good readings on meter. If not then install new switch.