Radiator Flush How To

Radiator Flush How To Video

Radiator flush. Can be tricky. Very messy.


ATTN MODS: Rick and I thought it would be a good idea to "double post" some of my how to's in different sections because a majority of them apply to more than just the 1996 stock explorer.

Rick, if im misunderstanding what you meant go ahead and do what you need to do with these under the hood how to's. Not that im giving you permission or anything cause I know you dont need it.

When draining, some radiators actually have a drain plug and petcock valve for releasing fluid. If so, then you will not have to remove the lower radiator hose. Most engines also have drain plugs in the bottom of the block. If you can access these plugs, you can also drain the block.

Keep in mind that you want to use distilled water because tap water has too many minerals.

Refer to your owners manual for fill capacity. After draining, you will still have liquid (hopefully clean distilled water) in your engine block and heater core. If you divide the fill capacity in half, then that is exactly how much coolant that you need to add. If you are using Red Line Water Wetter or Royal Purple Purple Ice, then add to radiator after adding coolant and before distilled water. Then top off with distilled water.

My car's capacity is 12.8 quarts. I added 6.4 quarts of coolant. Next was a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. Final step was topping off with distilled water.

This rad was bad enough to where there was rust chunks that would just clog the normal rad drain plug. Thanks for the input though.

You need to make an infomercial. You can fill an entire DVD with all your posts on here, because you dominate these boards!

Thanks John. Really appreciate it

Pick up a flush and fill kit fom the AP store that comes with a T fitting you put into the heater hose. I forget wich one is the one that flows into the heater core and wich one is out, but put it in the inlet. I would drain the radiator, then add the T fitting, then add the radiator flush solvent ; topp off the radiator with water and run the engine..go to the store or whatever, close enough to where if there is an issue you are not stuck somewhere. You could flush the system with water first, then add the solvent and refill, that way you have most of the coolant you need to recover out and no need to worry about the lower concentrations in the 2nd flush. run the solvent in the engine with the heater core valve open for whatever time frame recommended by the flushing product. then drain and connect your water hose to the T to flush out the system. I would suggest letting the engine cool before introducing cold water directly into the block for obvious reasons. this adds another step- remove thermostat for best results- flush engine while running (cold) without a thermostat in it, then when discharge water is clear, drain the system best possible, even starting the engine briefly to allow the water pump to push water out. Replace T-stat, close petcocks (drain valve) and fill with 1.5 gals of full strenght antifreeze. top off with distilled water. This will take you an hour or so and you should end up with at least 3 gals of coolant needing disposal.
Parts needed:
Thermostat with seal; 2 gals of pure antifreeze, flush kit with T-fitting, 2 gals of distilled water a 5 gal bucket to gather hazmat (contaminated coolant), a smaller drain pan or smaller bucket(s?) to catch coolant from the drain valve.