422cam with an auto trans

Ronin8002 · June 14, 2009

The 422 won't give you any problems with the auto trans (it worked fine for me). Its powerband starts a bit higher than the 410....and it requires a tune to get the most out of it. I guess what you have to look at is what your goals are and what you're doing with the truck.

The powerband of the 422 will go all the way up to redline and then some but are you really going to be driving the truck in a way that will take advantage of that? Do you normally spend a lot of time at 4000-5200 rpm? If not, then stay with the 410.

An exception might be if you're supercharging or bumping up your compression ratio a few points.

EDIT: I see now that you have 10:1 compression. Based on other peoples' results that seems to work well with the 422. I'd only do it if you're pulling the engine anyway but I'd still think about your intended use of the truck.

jd4242 · June 14, 2009

i thought i saw somewhere that the 422 would not work with an auto unless you did a tune and im not there yet,so it would have to run for a couple of months first.i think i have a cracked block i keep getting oil in my water or water in my oil and ive done every thing to find except magnaflux the block and i want to put in a high volume oil pump so its coming out!!would i lose any power out the hole compared to the 410?i do drive VERY hard and run alot of high rpms 4x4.
also you wouldnt be selling your 422 by chance?

Ronin8002 · June 14, 2009

I can tell you for certain that my truck worked fine with the 422 with zero tuning...I had the A4LD auto and later on a 700R4. I don't know if that means I'm lucky....but use your best judgment. As far as tuning goes with the 422, most of what they do is play with the ignition timing to take advantage of the duration...not sure that would affect the transmission function but I can only speak for my truck.

At any rate I don't think the low end power loss would be significant enough to matter for your setup and the way you drive. If you look at the profiles of the two cams the main difference is that the powerband of the 422 goes from like 1200rpm-5200 and the 410 is more like 800-4800. That being the case, logic would tell me that you'll see more peak power from the 422 between 4800-5200rpms. I'm sure you'll see a difference in power from the 422 below that RPM range, but as to whether its significant enough to be worthwhile depends on your setup and tune. Only way to know for sure is to try it and see how it works and post your experience.

I am selling a 422 but it's part of a nice built 4.0 shortblock that I will be selling soon (bored .030 over, balanced, hypereutectic pistons, etc). Not to be too obvious of a salesman but if your block is bad and you want to buy a nice motor that's already built up, let me know

jd4242 · June 14, 2009

MaximumViolence said:
I can tell you for certain that my truck worked fine with the 422 with zero tuning...I had the A4LD auto and later on a 700R4. I don't know if that means I'm lucky....but use your best judgment. As far as tuning goes with the 422, most of what they do is play with the ignition timing to take advantage of the duration...not sure that would affect the transmission function but I can only speak for my truck.

At any rate I don't think the low end power loss would be significant enough to matter for your setup and the way you drive. If you look at the profiles of the two cams the main difference is that the powerband of the 422 goes from like 1200rpm-5200 and the 410 is more like 800-4800. That being the case, logic would tell me that you'll see more peak power from the 422 between 4800-5200rpms. I'm sure you'll see a difference in power from the 422 below that RPM range, but as to whether its significant enough to be worthwhile depends on your setup and tune. Only way to know for sure is to try it and see how it works and post your experience.

I am selling a 422 but it's part of a nice built 4.0 shortblock that I will be selling soon (bored .030 over, balanced, hypereutectic pistons, etc). Not to be too obvious of a salesman but if your block is bad and you want to buy a nice motor that's already built up, let me know

yea i saw that you might be selling that but those are a 95 block and 95 style piston right?that would take me back down to 9:1?also i just had my crank done and new pistons also,its a whole new motor,every part except the block!!

jd4242 · June 14, 2009

o and short blocks dont have to come with a cam or maybe it comes with a 410 cam not 422,if you get what im saying

Ronin8002 · June 14, 2009

yeah it's 95 pistons so that would definitely bring your compression back down...probably not what you want.

let me check around for a few days and see if I can get any takers on the whole short block but if it's not moving then I'll get back to you on swapping cams or selling my 422 to you.

jd4242 · June 14, 2009

MaximumViolence said:
yeah it's 95 pistons so that would definitely bring your compression back down...probably not what you want.

let me check around for a few days and see if I can get any takers on the whole short block but if it's not moving then I'll get back to you on swapping cams or selling my 422 to you.

yea defiantly let me know if you just want to do a swap ill throw in a little something for your troubles.yea right now im taking a tb spacer like one of those save you gas and add power spacer and having it bored out to match my tb and im drilling and countersinking a hole in it to mount a shark nozzle in it so i can have a nx tb direct port!!i think it will like the higher compression better!!

Ronin8002 · June 14, 2009

Nice!! Yeah when you start spraying it you'll be glad you have that high compression....seems to work well to have high compression + nitrous.

Keep a close eye on that transmission though!!

jd4242 · June 14, 2009

MaximumViolence said:
Nice!! Yeah when you start spraying it you'll be glad you have that high compression....seems to work well to have high compression + nitrous.

Keep a close eye on that transmission though!!

o yea its brand new but im pretty sure I will be swaping that out with a manual but would really like to find a good direct fit strong auto,im in the middle of a complete front end rebuild now and next is my 4.88 or 4.56 but I got to find this oil leak now!
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Ronin8002 · June 17, 2009

Hey dude I am up for swapping my 422 for your 410. I have to get it out of the motor but I am working on it.

I decided not to sell most of my stuff....as I was cleaning up my supercharger I kept having misgivings about selling it as well as my other parts...as if I were about to sell off some of my family members or something...haha.

So, I said to myself "I don't want to do this" and I decided to keep my parts for a future project...probably a 4x4 explorer or 4x4 ranger buildup. I am sure my wife will be "thrilled" haha.

As soon as I get the cam out I'll let you know...should be ready by the weekend. let me know when your 410 is ready and we'll just mail em to each other.

jd4242 · June 17, 2009

MaximumViolence said:
Hey dude I am up for swapping my 422 for your 410. I have to get it out of the motor but I am working on it.

I decided not to sell most of my stuff....as I was cleaning up my supercharger I kept having misgivings about selling it as well as my other parts...as if I were about to sell off some of my family members or something...haha.

So, I said to myself "I don't want to do this" and I decided to keep my parts for a future project...probably a 4x4 explorer or 4x4 ranger buildup. I am sure my wife will be "thrilled" haha.

As soon as I get the cam out I'll let you know...should be ready by the weekend. let me know when your 410 is ready and we'll just mail em to each other.

sweet!its going to be a couple weeks though I got to pull the motor and tear it down first.but yea let me know when you get yours out and ill send you and email and a prepaid sticker when I get mine out.thanks man
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Ronin8002 · June 19, 2009

the 422 is out...and what was left of my old truck is now on its way to the scrapyard

Just let me know when you've got yours out in a few weeks and we will make the switch :thumbsup:

Ronin8002 · June 21, 2009

By the way...tell me about that oil leak.

Do you see exterior signs of oil leakage? or is it just disappearing?

Reason I ask is after I swapped heads I had the same problem. You might check a couple of things first:

-Look in the rocker arm bolt holes. If the person who ported your heads opened the intake runners up enough...they might have uncovered the bottom of the rocker arm bolt holes...allowing oil to be sucked into the intake. You can fix that by putting liquid teflon sealant on the rocker arm bolt threads before you screw them in

-Look at the valve cover bolt holes on the heads...check and see if they are open at the bottom and allowing oil to leak thru into the intake or exhaust...fix the same way as above.

-Check your lower intake gasket. The manual says not to put silicon around the intake ports on the heads where the gasket touches them but I put a light coat around each one before I installed the gasket. I also did the same thing on my lower intake manifold intake runners where it touches the lower intake gasket. I also made sure it was tightened down the right way with the bolts being tightened in the right order and put loc-tite on the bolts.

After doing these things I stopped having oil consumption issues. Well for the most part...I started noticing more blow by some time later but that was due to old rings

jd4242 · June 21, 2009

MaximumViolence said:
By the way...tell me about that oil leak.

Do you see exterior signs of oil leakage? or is it just disappearing?

Reason I ask is after I swapped heads I had the same problem. You might check a couple of things first:

-Look in the rocker arm bolt holes. If the person who ported your heads opened the intake runners up enough...they might have uncovered the bottom of the rocker arm bolt holes...allowing oil to be sucked into the intake. You can fix that by putting liquid teflon sealant on the rocker arm bolt threads before you screw them in

-Look at the valve cover bolt holes on the heads...check and see if they are open at the bottom and allowing oil to leak thru into the intake or exhaust...fix the same way as above.

-Check your lower intake gasket. The manual says not to put silicon around the intake ports on the heads where the gasket touches them but I put a light coat around each one before I installed the gasket. I also did the same thing on my lower intake manifold intake runners where it touches the lower intake gasket. I also made sure it was tightened down the right way with the bolts being tightened in the right order and put loc-tite on the bolts.

After doing these things I stopped having oil consumption issues. Well for the most part...I started noticing more blow by some time later but that was due to old rings

ive done all that,at fist i was gettig oil in my water and water in my oil so i thought it was my first set of heads(stock just machined) so i pulled them and got new 95tm heads and believe it or not it did have a pen hole in the middle rocker bolt but i saw it before i put it on.so i sent it back and got a new one.after i installed them i kept having the same problems.come to find out it was the lower intake settling down,the bolts would still be locktighted but the intake was loose,so after pulling it all back apart and changing the gasket and checking the bolts for 5 days it stayed tight and was no longer getting water in my oil but still am getting oil in my water,so the only thing i can think of is either i got a bad new head(my dumb ass didnt get them tested) or a cracked block.im thinking cracked block but really hopeing a cracked head.a head and head work is cheaper that getting a new block and having all the work done again to it.i just dont know where else that oil could be getting into my water from!!any ideas?

Ronin8002 · June 21, 2009

Did you try draining and flushing your cooling system out and seeing if that fixes it? Maybe it's the same oil getting circulated around and around again from when your lower intake was leaking.

If not that then no ideas other than the two possibilities that you came up with....either the heads or the block are bad. Maybe a headgasket but you should see that pretty quick when you pull off the heads.

jd4242 · June 21, 2009

yea thats what i was thinking but ive flushed it like 5 time and then i put a dye in the oil and it looks like its showing up in the water but i need to put some mile on it to be sure but looks like it is getting in there

Ronin8002 · June 21, 2009

Man, that sux. hopefully at worst its something with the heads.

BTW who does your cylinder head porting work? I was thinking about getting some 95TM heads and porting them myself.

jd4242 · June 21, 2009

I just had them cleaned up and gasket matched,you really need to swap out the valves to get these thing to flow.ill post my machine guy and the cheapest place to get heads tomorrow
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Ronin8002 · July 7, 2009

Hey hadn't heard any updates in a while...how's it going?

I was thinking about using alabama cylinder head and buying them bare since I already have the valves, locks, dual springs....just gotta port em a bit.

I finally decided against using my vortech kit in my next truck build so I have something else in mind that will be just as fun and probably better in the long run. I'm going to try running my Zex dry kit with water/meth injection for fueling. Should be interesting...esp since these motors always seem to respond well to nitrous.

Right now I am looking for a good truck to build up...I want to buy a 4x4 first gen with a 5 speed, preferably 2 door...seems like I always used to see these for sale and now that I need one they all disappear!

422cam with an auto trans

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