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power window motor removal?

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Old 06-20-2009, 04:17 PM   #1
red.EDDIE.4x4
Tulsa, Oklahoma
'93 Eddie Bauer 4x4
 
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power window motor removal?

hey guys, my power windows on my 93 Eddie Bauer are not working quite right. when i push the button to go up or down all i hear is a clicking noise and sometimes the window goes up or down and sometimes it doesnt. i know the motor is turning because i can feel it. most of the time i end up hitting the button and pulling it up. i figured it must be a gear on the motor that is either stripped out or missing teeth. but when i went to take it out i only can take out one bolt. the rest of whats holding the motor in are rivets.
so is there a way for me to take it out? or am i gonna have to take it into a shop? any suggestions?
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Old 06-20-2009, 04:24 PM   #2
techieman33
Topeka, KS
 
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http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...t=window+motor
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:18 PM   #3
red.EDDIE.4x4
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thanks! that helped alot on the rear windows.
but what about the front windows? same type of thing? because all i see are rivets...
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:21 PM   #4
techieman33
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yeah it's basically the same for the fronts, you have to drill the rivets out, and then put new rivets in, or bolt them in.
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:35 PM   #5
Titan09
Southeast Georgia
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No...you do not,

I repeat...DO NOT!!!!!!!! need to drill out the rivets if all you are doing is replacing the motor. I just completed this project on my '93 Sport.

You have to drill out one of the dimples in the door (it's covered up by the lower left part of the speaker mount, so you'll be able to see it when you take out the speaker) with a 1/2" drill bit to expose the third screw. Take out the screws, and the motor drops out. The two other screws are behind holes that are just to the left of the speaker. Re-installation is the same thing in reverse.

It's a delicate operation...It's a lot tougher getting the motor re-installed, but it will align itself once you tighten down all the screws. The rivets have nothing to do with mounting the motor, and you'll make the project a lot harder than it has to be if you just need to replace the motor.
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:39 PM   #6
red.EDDIE.4x4
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thanks guys! titan was right about the little dimple. all went well. only drawback was that the little bushings were 9 bucks a set
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:59 PM   #7
Titan09
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Well, at least you didn't have to spend $50 for a new motor, like I did...heh
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:00 AM   #8
dansnyder22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red.EDDIE.4x4 View Post
thanks guys! titan was right about the little dimple. all went well. only drawback was that the little bushings were 9 bucks a set
ohhh nine bucks, let me cry for you




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Old 06-21-2009, 08:59 AM   #9
red.EDDIE.4x4
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i was expecting them to be more like 5 or so.

Last edited by red.EDDIE.4x4; 10-08-2009 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:59 PM   #10
mfreedog
maysville,Ky
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I had trouble with my drivers side motor and I took the motor out plugged it in and it started working. I greased the rails and it took off fine and so far so good.
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:06 PM   #11
92exp4x4
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Did you buy the HELP brand part? I have always ordered a gear kit from ford for a full size truck (87-91). Its about $25 per kit, but it comes with a tube of grease and a new center gear. The white plastic one is the only difference.

Whats the HELP part number if you have it?




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Old 10-12-2011, 12:11 PM   #12
o' dannyboy
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http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...t=window+motor

My window froze in the down position. The switch activated a clicking sound in the door but the window would not budge. The switch seemed to work but the motor seemed shot.

If you think it's the motor DO NOT REMOVE THE REGULATOR!!! You don't need to in order to replace the motor. The motor comes out independent of the regulator. No rivet drilling, no replacement bolts or any of that!!! If it's not the regulator - leave it alone except to lubricate it!!

Drilling the 1/2" hole is no big deal but do not go too far, be gentle, the bolt is right there. (Ford™, PLEASE HELP US UNDERSTAND WHY THE DIMPLE AND NOT A HOLE???)

Remove the speaker and all the mysteries of the inner door are revealed. You can see the motor and get your hand in there to remove it.

For me, prior to installing the new motor, I removed the old motor, plugged in the new motor to test it and discovered it worked fine. And then, for the hell of it, I plugged in the old motor while it was out to test it. IT WORKED FINE, TOO!!!

I generously lubricated the regulator tracks with lithium grease and sprayed some Tri-Flow™ into pivot points, reinstalled the OLD motor and ran it for a good quarter hour; up and down, down and up - works like a charm!!! Better than before! Maybe a loose connection or a rusty joint or track??? Who knows?

Took the new motor back to AutoZone®!

Net cost: $0.
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