05 Explorer XLT Rear brake pads

Dradien · 06-26-2009, 04:13 PM

So I am about to replace the rear pads on my 05 Explorer XLT. Failed inspection because the rear pads were to worn.

Now, I have never done brakes, but I have some experience. I don't want to have to pay labor on this, and I also wanna learn some, and doing shit yourself gives a sense of satisfaction.

How easy are the rear pads? Any special tools needed for it? Anything I should look out for?

Also, does anyone wanna give me a quick rundown before I do it? Thanks!

Fox Fader · 06-26-2009, 04:19 PM

10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts that hold the calipers.

A screwdriver to pry off the outer pad

A c-clamp or something similar to compress the caliper piston in.

Snap the new pads in place

Put the caliper back on, bolts back and you are done.

Too easy, if you can't do this, sell the few tools you may have now and pay for your repairs

1_v8_merc · 06-27-2009, 03:16 PM

You should always get your Rotors Turned when you are replacing brake pads as well, because the ridges in the rotors arent going to align with the new brake pads, and you will get horrible noises and supposedely lead to premature brake pad failure or damage to rotors.......thats what they SAY atleast.

It should only cost around $20-60 to get 2 rotors turned.....depends on where you live.

I went to a Goodyear shop, they wanted almost $100 PER ROTOR!!!
I told them to #### off.

I went down the street to some privately owned shop, they only want around $30 to turn 2 rotors......good enough for me.

muhl5443 · 06-27-2009, 03:41 PM

you are better off puttin 2 new rotors on. 20-25 a piece. dont forget to clean the caliper slides and relubricate them with grease.

Fox Fader · 07-01-2009, 05:06 PM

The rear rotors rarely warp, I won't turn them, and if they were messed up I'd buy new ones... Keep in mind new rotors aren't always true.

LVmounty · 07-01-2009, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fox Fader

The rear rotors rarely warp, I won't turn them, and if they were messed up I'd buy new ones... Keep in mind new rotors aren't always true.

"Not always true"........meaning??

Dradien · 07-06-2009, 11:03 AM

I was about to do it, but then I thought of something. The brake line that connects to the caliper assembly, does that need to be drained of any fluids or anything? Im not exactly sure on this and make sure I dont #### anything up.

sfbayjay · 07-06-2009, 11:11 AM

If all you're doin' is changing pads and/or rotors, you don't really need to worry about brake fluid (bleeding, changing, whatever). Some guys will tell you to bleed the brakes every time, but I don't. Never had a problem. Just make sure that when you remove the brake caliper assembly that you hang it from the lower suspension arm using some bailing wire or something. Don't let it just hang by the brake line or you're asking for trouble -- could pull something apart and spring a leak.

sfbayjay · 07-06-2009, 11:18 AM

Also, if you ARE planning to change or remove/turn the rear rotors, be prepared for a bit of a battle getting them off. It is common for corrosion and/or fit of the parking brake shoes (which are behind and kind of inside the rear rotors) to cause problems with removal. Also beware that if you really flog on the rotors to get them off (which may be the only way to get them off -- I had to use a big hammer and a block of wood -- don't smack the rotor directly with a hammer -- put the wood block on the rotor and then whack the wood block), you may damage the parking brake shoes. Putting new parking brake shoes on is a royal B*TCH. Not saying you shouldn't change the rotors if you need to. Just be prepared to use some of your adult vocabulary words if you have to mess with the parking brake...

jrford · 07-06-2009, 11:49 AM

normally without question i would turn rotors, but with these Ex and the Rear Parking brake issues, . . if they aren't too bad i just put new pads on, other wise you will more then likely have to do the parking brakes too which will run another $100 on top of what you have.

XCAMP · 07-06-2009, 02:54 PM

I just changed mine with the cheapest ones I could find at Advanced Auto Parts, like $25 for both sides.

Get the Haynes manual while you are getting the pads and you will be all set.

I always loctite my bolts with blue loctite but the manual doesn't call for it.

IMPORTANT: remember you have to hang the caliper up so you don't damage your brake lines (use a clothes hanger if needed)

It's pretty easy if you take your time and pay attention to how you take everything apart.

*thepotroast* · 07-07-2009, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1_v8_merc

I went to a Goodyear shop, they wanted almost $100 PER ROTOR!!!
I told them to #### off.

Considering that a new rear rotor for a 2005 Explorer is only $45 ea from Advance Auto....that's either completely bogus, or they assumed you were looking to purchase a new rotor....but I have never heard of anyone charging $100 to turn a rotor.

Dradien · 07-07-2009, 11:49 AM

Goddamn Caliper assembly won't come off. Took off the whell, removed the two bolts in the back, anything I missed? Pissing me right off.

Curtis · 07-07-2009, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dradien

Goddamn Caliper assembly won't come off. Took off the whell, removed the two bolts in the back, anything I missed? Pissing me right off.

It should come off after taking the 2 bolts out.
Maybe the rotors have an edge on them? The pads wont come off past this?

Are they loose or wont budge a bit?
You should be able to pry them off.
I never ran into any problems doing my rear pads... only took minutes.

Dradien · 07-07-2009, 12:28 PM

Never got, the the pads on, but the gap isnt big enough for the rotor, WTF?

Also, I got a small bit of grease on the brake pad its self. Am I going to crash and burn?

Curtis · 07-07-2009, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dradien

The car is at 80k miles, so it was kind of hard, but I got them. Little hitting them worked, now the bake pad wont snap into the caliper. I pushed the piston back and everything. God I suck at this. I know the basic procedure, but the little hiccups are annoying...

Any tips for getting the back pad on the caliper? Do I need to squeeze the back pins a little?

Push harder, it should stay in the caliper.
A second set of hands might be helpful.
I dont remember there being a "snap", just held in with the pressure of the springs.

Dradien · 07-07-2009, 12:36 PM

Thanks for helping me so far curtis, it is good knowing I got come competent help and Im not breaking my toy.

Dradien · 07-07-2009, 02:50 PM

Got it:P Wasnt so hard. I just hope I did it right. Seems to work properly so far:P

Curtis · 07-07-2009, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dradien

Got it:P Wasnt so hard. I just hope I did it right. Seems to work properly so far:P

Good to hear... Im sure its all good.

1_v8_merc · 07-07-2009, 11:07 PM

I never had any problems getting my calipers off.
They came off VERY easily.

The rear rotors on the other hand, were a complete PAIN in the ass.
Had to beat the shit out of them forever.

The corrosion underneath them was unreal, seriously.
Accidentily broke a plastic looking shoe piece off.
So i JB Welded it back on, E-brakes hold tight enough still after the ghetto rig.

I would recommend a brake flush though man, i seriously need one too.

06-26-2009, 04:13 PM	#1
Dradien Wannabe Elite Explorer Mount Carmel, PA '05 XLT Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 48 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	05 Explorer XLT Rear brake pads So I am about to replace the rear pads on my 05 Explorer XLT. Failed inspection because the rear pads were to worn. Now, I have never done brakes, but I have some experience. I don't want to have to pay labor on this, and I also wanna learn some, and doing shit yourself gives a sense of satisfaction. How easy are the rear pads? Any special tools needed for it? Anything I should look out for? Also, does anyone wanna give me a quick rundown before I do it? Thanks!

06-26-2009, 04:19 PM	#2
Fox Fader Wannabe Elite Explorer Columbus, GA searching Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 223 Vehicle Specs	10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts that hold the calipers. A screwdriver to pry off the outer pad A c-clamp or something similar to compress the caliper piston in. Snap the new pads in place Put the caliper back on, bolts back and you are done. Too easy, if you can't do this, sell the few tools you may have now and pay for your repairs __________________ _______________ 2005 XLS 115k not even side steps (sold) 2001 Sport-Trac 131k Wife's

06-27-2009, 03:16 PM	#3
1_v8_merc Wannabe Elite Explorer calvert,MD 04 Mounty Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 324 Vehicle Specs	You should always get your Rotors Turned when you are replacing brake pads as well, because the ridges in the rotors arent going to align with the new brake pads, and you will get horrible noises and supposedely lead to premature brake pad failure or damage to rotors.......thats what they SAY atleast. It should only cost around $20-60 to get 2 rotors turned.....depends on where you live. I went to a Goodyear shop, they wanted almost $100 PER ROTOR!!! I told them to #### off. I went down the street to some privately owned shop, they only want around $30 to turn 2 rotors......good enough for me. __________________ 2004 Mercury Mountaineer - v8, AWD, leather, BFG M/T's. Is not afraid to go off-road!

06-27-2009, 03:41 PM	#4
muhl5443 Wannabe Elite Explorer Minnesota '98 XLT Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 265 Vehicle Specs	you are better off puttin 2 new rotors on. 20-25 a piece. dont forget to clean the caliper slides and relubricate them with grease. __________________ '98 xlt 4.0 sohc 31" bf goodrich all terrain t/a tires 2" TT REAR SHACKLES message center mod vent visors & bug deflector

07-01-2009, 05:06 PM	#5
Fox Fader Wannabe Elite Explorer Columbus, GA searching Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 223 Vehicle Specs	The rear rotors rarely warp, I won't turn them, and if they were messed up I'd buy new ones... Keep in mind new rotors aren't always true. __________________ _______________ 2005 XLS 115k not even side steps (sold) 2001 Sport-Trac 131k Wife's

07-06-2009, 11:03 AM	#7
Dradien Wannabe Elite Explorer Mount Carmel, PA '05 XLT Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 48 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I was about to do it, but then I thought of something. The brake line that connects to the caliper assembly, does that need to be drained of any fluids or anything? Im not exactly sure on this and make sure I dont #### anything up.

07-06-2009, 11:11 AM	#8
sfbayjay Wannabe Elite Explorer Cleveland-ish, OH 2002 XLT Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 78 Vehicle Specs	If all you're doin' is changing pads and/or rotors, you don't really need to worry about brake fluid (bleeding, changing, whatever). Some guys will tell you to bleed the brakes every time, but I don't. Never had a problem. Just make sure that when you remove the brake caliper assembly that you hang it from the lower suspension arm using some bailing wire or something. Don't let it just hang by the brake line or you're asking for trouble -- could pull something apart and spring a leak.

07-06-2009, 11:18 AM	#9
sfbayjay Wannabe Elite Explorer Cleveland-ish, OH 2002 XLT Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 78 Vehicle Specs	Also, if you ARE planning to change or remove/turn the rear rotors, be prepared for a bit of a battle getting them off. It is common for corrosion and/or fit of the parking brake shoes (which are behind and kind of inside the rear rotors) to cause problems with removal. Also beware that if you really flog on the rotors to get them off (which may be the only way to get them off -- I had to use a big hammer and a block of wood -- don't smack the rotor directly with a hammer -- put the wood block on the rotor and then whack the wood block), you may damage the parking brake shoes. Putting new parking brake shoes on is a royal B*TCH. Not saying you shouldn't change the rotors if you need to. Just be prepared to use some of your adult vocabulary words if you have to mess with the parking brake...

07-06-2009, 11:49 AM	#10
jrford Wannabe Elite Explorer Birmingham, MI '10 Sport Trac Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 2,520 Vehicle Specs	normally without question i would turn rotors, but with these Ex and the Rear Parking brake issues, . . if they aren't too bad i just put new pads on, other wise you will more then likely have to do the parking brakes too which will run another $100 on top of what you have. __________________ Jim 2010 Mercury Mountaineer Premier, V8 AWD, 15k 2010 Sport Trac Limited, V8 4WD, 55k 2004 EB Quad Buckets V8 AWD, 105k

07-06-2009, 02:54 PM	#11
XCAMP Wannabe Elite Explorer 2005, XLT Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 91 Vehicle Specs	I just changed mine with the cheapest ones I could find at Advanced Auto Parts, like $25 for both sides. Get the Haynes manual while you are getting the pads and you will be all set. I always loctite my bolts with blue loctite but the manual doesn't call for it. IMPORTANT: remember you have to hang the caliper up so you don't damage your brake lines (use a clothes hanger if needed) It's pretty easy if you take your time and pay attention to how you take everything apart.

07-07-2009, 11:49 AM	#13
Dradien Wannabe Elite Explorer Mount Carmel, PA '05 XLT Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 48 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Goddamn Caliper assembly won't come off. Took off the whell, removed the two bolts in the back, anything I missed? Pissing me right off.

07-07-2009, 12:28 PM	#15
Dradien Wannabe Elite Explorer Mount Carmel, PA '05 XLT Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 48 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Never got, the the pads on, but the gap isnt big enough for the rotor, WTF? Also, I got a small bit of grease on the brake pad its self. Am I going to crash and burn?

07-07-2009, 12:36 PM	#17
Dradien Wannabe Elite Explorer Mount Carmel, PA '05 XLT Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 48 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks for helping me so far curtis, it is good knowing I got come competent help and Im not breaking my toy.

07-07-2009, 02:50 PM	#18
Dradien Wannabe Elite Explorer Mount Carmel, PA '05 XLT Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 48 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Got it:P Wasnt so hard. I just hope I did it right. Seems to work properly so far:P

07-07-2009, 11:07 PM	#20
1_v8_merc Wannabe Elite Explorer calvert,MD 04 Mounty Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 324 Vehicle Specs	I never had any problems getting my calipers off. They came off VERY easily. The rear rotors on the other hand, were a complete PAIN in the ass. Had to beat the shit out of them forever. The corrosion underneath them was unreal, seriously. Accidentily broke a plastic looking shoe piece off. So i JB Welded it back on, E-brakes hold tight enough still after the ghetto rig. I would recommend a brake flush though man, i seriously need one too. __________________ 2004 Mercury Mountaineer - v8, AWD, leather, BFG M/T's. Is not afraid to go off-road!