How to: SOHC Throttle Cable Mod

When I checked my throttle cable linkage I was surprised to find there was about 3/8 inch slack and no adjustment on the cable housing like there is on the cruise control cable housing. The negative impact of the slack is the gas pedal must be depressed some distance before the throttle plate starts to move. This makes the engine appear to be less responsive. Even worse, is that when the gas pedal is fully depressed the throttle plate does not rotate all the way to 90 degrees.


In searching the forum I found threads explaining two different ways to eliminate the throttle cable slack. One was to attach cable tie(s) to the cable at the gas pedal. Another was to attach fishing line weights (split shot) at the same location. Being 63 years old, I found that trying to work on the gas pedal while on the floor and under the dash was very undesireable. I also wanted a slack reducer with an adjustment capability.

My final solution cost $3.40 and is located adjacent to the throttle body and therefore easily accessible. It consists of a 3/4 inch pulley from The Home Depot and a 1 1/2 inch conduit hanger from Lowe's. The pulley is mounted to the conduit hanger and the hanger is mounted on the air intake plenum EGR valve port. I had to grind two areas on the conduit hanger. One area to accommodate the round shape of the plenum and the other area to keep the pulley housing from binding against the hanger clamp end.


The 3/8 inch lock washer acts as a spacer between the pulley eye and the square bolt hole of the conduit hanger. It's larger diameter fits over the shoulders of the bolt. After grinding and assembling the conduit hanger disconnect the throttle cable end from the throttle body. Feed the cable end between the pulley and its housing (the space closest to the eye). I used a #2 phillips screwdriver to push the end thru the space. Then reconnect the cable end to the throttle body.

The cable slack can be adjusted by sliding the conduit hanger up or down as needed before tightening the clamp. When adjusted for almost no slack, the throttle plate will rotate from stop to stop. Be careful not to overtighten the conduit hanger as the air intake plenum can crack.

In the near future I will determine the performance difference before and after the mod by dyno testing.

That's an interesting solution, well done.

It's taking me longer to edit and post the photos than it took me to do the mod! I just found out that I'm limited to 4 attachments (the photos) so here are 4 more.

Nice mod you've got there! So when you mash the pedal to full throttle, the pedal isn't necessarily on the floor? Or am I imagining things incorrectly?

Let us know how it works a few miles down the road and if it change your driving style/habits and any MPG gains involved.

Very cool alternative to the throttle cable mod that everyone else is using. Kudos for figuring it out.

Interstate said:

Nice mod you've got there! So when you mash the pedal to full throttle, the pedal isn't necessarily on the floor? Or am I imagining things incorrectly?

Let us know how it works a few miles down the road and if it change your driving style/habits and any MPG gains involved.

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For my Sport there is just enough gas pedal movement (once the cable slack is eliminated) to rotate the throttle plate from idle stop to wide open stop. My first action when I suspected I was not achieving wide open throttle was to remove the optional floor mat that was under the gas pedal.

I can't imagine why eliminating the throttle cable slack would improve my gas mileage.

Well mileage is often dictated by how you drive, and having improved throttle response may change your driving style or just how heavy your foot may be

Now that is Awesome! Screw cable ties

CDW6212R said:

That's an interesting solution, well done.

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Hope that "o ring" isn't affected eh Don. So you never even saw the seal huh? Huh