How To: Replacing Upper Ball Joints on a 3rd Gen 4x4 [Pictures]

05kAwBoy700 · 10-09-2010, 05:51 PM

Wishing I would have looked on here before I went to Auto Zone lol.........just got back home and realized the tool I have will not work. The local auto zone said they do not have adapters for the ball joint tool. Since the part number for the adapters is listed on here, i called back with the part number......imagine that, they DO have it! Headed back into town tonight, should finish this up tomorrow am.

TAGOFFICEUSA · 10-12-2010, 12:41 AM

Finally, i built up the confidence to do this myself after reading Pot Roast's very impressive post. My Mechanic wanted me to buy the control arms, thank God i came across you post Pot Roast. I am attempting the front upper and lower ball joints and the sway bars as well on my 2003 Ford Explorer Xlt, 4.0 2wd. I am using Moog Parts and i also rented from Advanced Auto parts, the Ball joint press kit #940579. I want to take pics or record the whole process. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Cheers!

05kAwBoy700 · 10-13-2010, 07:45 AM

Aside from the ball joint press tool being a little tricky/clumsey to use, I completed all four upper ball joints (and installed a new front differential while I was at it) in my driveway with common hand tools.

I just want to add that the brain-dead SOB's at auto zone do not have any knowldge of the parts they are selling. The rear ball joints are DIFFERENT than the front, regardless of what their computer tells you. Rear ball joints are not a stocking item and had to be special ordered directly from Moog. I am in the Detroit area, so this may depend on location.

One more heads up to anyone buying ball joints: Moog joints in my area were nearly $50 each for all four. Aftermarket "duralast" brand was $33. I purchased the duralast (FA2159) for the front and it was a MOOG BALL JOINT IN THE DURALAST BOX. The very same joint pictured in the previous posts (with the splines and black boot, pressed in easily). Just a heads up, not sure if this is the same everywhere but all four joints I purchased @ AZ had Moog joints in the duralast box.

Of coarse the rear joints were incorrect and I refused to order anything else from the incompetent, unskilled, waste of oxygen behind the counter at AZ. I ordered them from AutoValue and the job is now complete.

Drive safe!

TAGOFFICEUSA · 10-13-2010, 07:50 PM

Hey Guys,
Well i finally accomplished the job of removing and installing the upper , lower ball joints and sway bars. It was a challenging task. Removing and installing the ball joints were the most challenging. I used all MOOG parts from Advanced Auto. Upper BJ w/ splines cost me $78.00 a pair and lowers were $82.74 a pair. Sway bar link kit $22.56 a pair. Ball joint service set #940579. $99.00. removing the upper control arms were simple enough. I struggled to remove the driver side ball joint using the press tool manually, i finally caved and used an impact wrench to turn the bolt to press out and press in. Uppers were in ok. For the lowers i used a mini sledge to pop them out and a floor jack to help me press em in.. the whole job took me nine hours split into two days. But it's done no more noise thanks again to POTROAST, YOU THE MAN! I took some pics but it's nothing impressive like PotRoast's
. Don't let the stealership drain your 401K! Cheers

esclamada · 10-25-2010, 11:21 AM

Here are my pictures, I just bought a set of control arms from rockauto.com. They are mevotech's.

http://www.fuzzyshot.com/fabainkc/post/42x2P92sSz

Swp Phillies Fan · 10-25-2010, 06:54 PM

Just did this job today. I replace both Front Upper Ball joints. Passenger side is perfectly fine. but my driver side is giving me fits. id press the ball joint in and reassemble the control arm. i took it out for a test drive and the ball joint popped out when making a right turn. so i tried pressing it in again and it happened again. any ideas why this is happening?

zpaperboyz · 10-25-2010, 07:17 PM

Let me guess. You're using Moog Ball joints? Don't. They come in at least 3 different sizes for the same part number drove me nuts until I changed brands and its been all good ever since.

Swp Phillies Fan · 10-25-2010, 07:25 PM

no i used napa Brand. i know the local guys there. they do look like moogs. its nice to know that theres 3 different sizes now. just having the problem with the drivers side. passengers side is just fine . went out and bought a different make. gonna try that tomorrow. hopefully it works.

JoshMcMadMac · 10-30-2010, 01:48 PM

I just did my upper ball joints today. If you are even the slightest bit coordinated you can accomplish the job without removing the control arms. I pressed the old ball joints out and new ones in in less than two hours, all with the control arms in place. It saves a decent amount of time and effort, as well as saving money on an alignment.

Swp Phillies Fan · 10-30-2010, 02:41 PM

Thanks for the help. went and got a different ball joint. and everythings fine now.

frankboat · 11-22-2010, 07:02 PM

Hey Guys, I am going to change my ball joints in a few days. Do I have to do a alignment after replacing upper ball joints? (The car is perfectly aligned before replacement).

PLease advise thanks.

JoshMcMadMac · 11-22-2010, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankboat

Hey Guys, I am going to change my ball joints in a few days. Do I have to do a alignment after replacing upper ball joints? (The car is perfectly aligned before replacement).

PLease advise thanks.

If you pull the control arm off, you will need an alignment. I did it easily with everything still on the vehicle. If you press the ball joints off and on while still on the vehicle, you will not need an alignment.

frankboat · 11-22-2010, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoshMcMadMac

If you pull the control arm off, you will need an alignment. I did it easily with everything still on the vehicle. If you press the ball joints off and on while still on the vehicle, you will not need an alignment.

Thanks for the response. My understanding is the upper control arm has two bolts to fix and there is no adjustment. If I install it back on with bolts tightened, I do not understand why I need alignment.

Replacing ball joints without taking out upper control arm sounds great. Which ball joint press kit did you use? I thought some are too big to fit in the space.

Thanks

pet575 · 11-29-2010, 04:29 PM

Thanks to the OP for this post. Got mine done over the weekend with only one problem-couldn't get the freaking ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Tried everything-heat, beating the sh!t out of it with a mini-sledge, ball joint separator tools-nothing.

Finally got it out using a pitman arm puller to push the threads of the ball joint up and out. That and more heat. If anyone runs into this problem, give it a shot.

Thanks again!

Jager · 12-13-2010, 12:31 AM

Installing mine tomorrow! Spent all weekend getting my front 2.25 spacers on. Holy crap, it was quite the job...

jmanolop · 01-15-2011, 02:47 PM

I got both of them greasable, are they the same? I was searching and found this:
Thanks in advance.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...per+ball+joint

emberswzd · 01-17-2011, 08:54 AM

Great post... If i ever need to change my uppers i ill definitely have this post handy. i do have a question though. i have a 2001 Explorer XLT 4WD and my upper control arm looks nothing like this. Did they change them going into the 02's?? I am also assuming that you were doing the drivers side, I assume the passenger side is stationary like the 2001's and drivers side pivots hence you didn't have to take the nut off the lower ball joint ??

gaw · 01-21-2011, 11:13 AM

Torque specs on this? Doing mine tomorrow!!

EDIT:
Found this on AutoZone site for 2WD...

Upper control arm nuts 111 ft. lbs.

Ball joint nut 41 ft. lbs.

Did mine today...thanks for the great write up...this site is such a great resource....

farsscf · 01-24-2011, 05:35 PM

Thank you for this thread. I changed mine along with the lowers and struts this weekend. I highly recommend getting the quick struts.

jmacattack · 02-20-2011, 10:29 PM

Did my front 2 upper ball joints today. Went with the remove-the-control-arm method. I struggled quite a bit with it. Had to recruit a friend to help. Took me ~4 hours to do both. Rented the tools from Autozone without problem.

10-09-2010, 05:51 PM	#81
05kAwBoy700 Wannabe Elite Explorer South East, MI '03 XLT 4wd 4.0 Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 36 Vehicle Specs	Wishing I would have looked on here before I went to Auto Zone lol.........just got back home and realized the tool I have will not work. The local auto zone said they do not have adapters for the ball joint tool. Since the part number for the adapters is listed on here, i called back with the part number......imagine that, they DO have it! Headed back into town tonight, should finish this up tomorrow am. __________________ RoadSleezy 2.5/2 Spacer Lift, K&N Intake, 255/75-17 BFG M/Ts, BWM, E-Fan

10-12-2010, 12:41 AM	#82
TAGOFFICEUSA Wannabe Elite Explorer FT LAUDERDALE, FL 2003 XLT Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 5 Vehicle Specs	Thanks Pot Roast Finally, i built up the confidence to do this myself after reading Pot Roast's very impressive post. My Mechanic wanted me to buy the control arms, thank God i came across you post Pot Roast. I am attempting the front upper and lower ball joints and the sway bars as well on my 2003 Ford Explorer Xlt, 4.0 2wd. I am using Moog Parts and i also rented from Advanced Auto parts, the Ball joint press kit #940579. I want to take pics or record the whole process. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Cheers! __________________ Clint Rawks Soli Deo Gloria!

10-13-2010, 07:45 AM	#83
05kAwBoy700 Wannabe Elite Explorer South East, MI '03 XLT 4wd 4.0 Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 36 Vehicle Specs	Aside from the ball joint press tool being a little tricky/clumsey to use, I completed all four upper ball joints (and installed a new front differential while I was at it) in my driveway with common hand tools. I just want to add that the brain-dead SOB's at auto zone do not have any knowldge of the parts they are selling. The rear ball joints are DIFFERENT than the front, regardless of what their computer tells you. Rear ball joints are not a stocking item and had to be special ordered directly from Moog. I am in the Detroit area, so this may depend on location. One more heads up to anyone buying ball joints: Moog joints in my area were nearly $50 each for all four. Aftermarket "duralast" brand was $33. I purchased the duralast (FA2159) for the front and it was a MOOG BALL JOINT IN THE DURALAST BOX. The very same joint pictured in the previous posts (with the splines and black boot, pressed in easily). Just a heads up, not sure if this is the same everywhere but all four joints I purchased @ AZ had Moog joints in the duralast box. Of coarse the rear joints were incorrect and I refused to order anything else from the incompetent, unskilled, waste of oxygen behind the counter at AZ. I ordered them from AutoValue and the job is now complete. Drive safe! __________________ RoadSleezy 2.5/2 Spacer Lift, K&N Intake, 255/75-17 BFG M/Ts, BWM, E-Fan

10-13-2010, 07:50 PM	#84
TAGOFFICEUSA Wannabe Elite Explorer FT LAUDERDALE, FL 2003 XLT Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 5 Vehicle Specs	Hey Guys, Well i finally accomplished the job of removing and installing the upper , lower ball joints and sway bars. It was a challenging task. Removing and installing the ball joints were the most challenging. I used all MOOG parts from Advanced Auto. Upper BJ w/ splines cost me $78.00 a pair and lowers were $82.74 a pair. Sway bar link kit $22.56 a pair. Ball joint service set #940579. $99.00. removing the upper control arms were simple enough. I struggled to remove the driver side ball joint using the press tool manually, i finally caved and used an impact wrench to turn the bolt to press out and press in. Uppers were in ok. For the lowers i used a mini sledge to pop them out and a floor jack to help me press em in.. the whole job took me nine hours split into two days. But it's done no more noise thanks again to POTROAST, YOU THE MAN! I took some pics but it's nothing impressive like PotRoast's . Don't let the stealership drain your 401K! Cheers __________________ Clint Rawks Soli Deo Gloria!

10-25-2010, 11:21 AM	#85
esclamada Wannabe Elite Explorer KCMO '02 Mountaineer AWD V8 Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 339 Vehicle Specs	Did my own ball joint replacement using this post Here are my pictures, I just bought a set of control arms from rockauto.com. They are mevotech's. http://www.fuzzyshot.com/fabainkc/post/42x2P92sSz

10-25-2010, 06:54 PM	#86
Swp Phillies Fan Wannabe Elite Explorer Philadelphia, PA '02 XLS 4.0l Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 17 Vehicle Specs	Just did this job today. I replace both Front Upper Ball joints. Passenger side is perfectly fine. but my driver side is giving me fits. id press the ball joint in and reassemble the control arm. i took it out for a test drive and the ball joint popped out when making a right turn. so i tried pressing it in again and it happened again. any ideas why this is happening?

10-25-2010, 07:17 PM	#87
zpaperboyz Wannabe Elite Explorer Prince Rupert, BC, 2004 Ford Explorer 4x4 Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 79 Vehicle Specs	Let me guess. You're using Moog Ball joints? Don't. They come in at least 3 different sizes for the same part number drove me nuts until I changed brands and its been all good ever since. __________________ 2004 Explorer - 3" lift - 265/70/17 tires - Dick Cypeck DC2-Black wheels, 17x9 (-12mm offset) - Now for sale. $12,000CD 13x,xxx km. 250-299-5367

10-25-2010, 07:25 PM	#88
Swp Phillies Fan Wannabe Elite Explorer Philadelphia, PA '02 XLS 4.0l Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 17 Vehicle Specs	no i used napa Brand. i know the local guys there. they do look like moogs. its nice to know that theres 3 different sizes now. just having the problem with the drivers side. passengers side is just fine . went out and bought a different make. gonna try that tomorrow. hopefully it works.

10-30-2010, 01:48 PM	#89
JoshMcMadMac Wannabe Elite Explorer Waynesboro, PA 2002 Mercury Mountaineer Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 834 Vehicle Specs	I just did my upper ball joints today. If you are even the slightest bit coordinated you can accomplish the job without removing the control arms. I pressed the old ball joints out and new ones in in less than two hours, all with the control arms in place. It saves a decent amount of time and effort, as well as saving money on an alignment. __________________ 2002 Mountaineer Premier: Intake, exhaust, under-drive pulleys, electric fan, tune, GF springs, 18's, tint

10-30-2010, 02:41 PM	#90
Swp Phillies Fan Wannabe Elite Explorer Philadelphia, PA '02 XLS 4.0l Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 17 Vehicle Specs	Thanks for the help. went and got a different ball joint. and everythings fine now. __________________ 2002 XLS 4.0 SOHC - Stock Tint all around. 3x10" MTX subwoofers with 1000W Alpine Amp. 4 new pioneer speakers. 55w Raptor HID kit with 6000k bulbs

11-22-2010, 07:02 PM	#91
frankboat Wannabe Elite Explorer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 6 Vehicle Specs	URGENT QUESTION: IS alignment needed after replacing ball joint Hey Guys, I am going to change my ball joints in a few days. Do I have to do a alignment after replacing upper ball joints? (The car is perfectly aligned before replacement). PLease advise thanks.

11-29-2010, 04:29 PM	#94
pet575 Wannabe Elite Explorer Kansas City, MO 2004 Limited Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 266 Vehicle Specs	Thanks to the OP for this post. Got mine done over the weekend with only one problem-couldn't get the freaking ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Tried everything-heat, beating the sh!t out of it with a mini-sledge, ball joint separator tools-nothing. Finally got it out using a pitman arm puller to push the threads of the ball joint up and out. That and more heat. If anyone runs into this problem, give it a shot. Thanks again!

12-13-2010, 12:31 AM	#95
Jager Wannabe Elite Explorer San Clemente, California 2004 Explorer Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 260 Vehicle Specs	Installing mine tomorrow! Spent all weekend getting my front 2.25 spacers on. Holy crap, it was quite the job... __________________ Click Here to View My Elite Explorer Registry [ 2.25 Front Spacers by BTF-Fabrication ] [ Hankook 265/75/16 A/Tm ] [ Airbox Mod w/ K&N ] [ Black Wheels ] [ ANSA Exhaust ] [ WAAG Brushgaurd ] [ Pioneer Head Unit ] [ 12" Kicker Comp ] [ Blacked Out Lights ]

01-15-2011, 02:47 PM	#96
jmanolop Wannabe Elite Explorer '03 XLS 4.0L 2WD Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 8 Vehicle Specs	I got both of them greasable, are they the same? I was searching and found this: Thanks in advance. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...per+ball+joint

01-17-2011, 08:54 AM	#97
emberswzd Wannabe Elite Explorer Port Richey, Fl 2001 Explorer XLT, 4WD Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 41 Vehicle Specs	Upper Ball joint replacement Great post... If i ever need to change my uppers i ill definitely have this post handy. i do have a question though. i have a 2001 Explorer XLT 4WD and my upper control arm looks nothing like this. Did they change them going into the 02's?? I am also assuming that you were doing the drivers side, I assume the passenger side is stationary like the 2001's and drivers side pivots hence you didn't have to take the nut off the lower ball joint ?? __________________ If you are against Teen Violence, Gangs and worthless Judges then your a friend of mine Yours truly Joe

01-21-2011, 11:13 AM	#98
gaw Wannabe Elite Explorer Fort Worth, Texas 03' XLT Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 49 Vehicle Specs	Torque specs on this? Doing mine tomorrow!! EDIT: Found this on AutoZone site for 2WD... Upper control arm nuts 111 ft. lbs. Ball joint nut 41 ft. lbs. Did mine today...thanks for the great write up...this site is such a great resource.... Last edited by gaw; 01-22-2011 at 09:24 PM.

01-24-2011, 05:35 PM	#99
farsscf Wannabe Elite Explorer Navarre, florida 2004 Explorer XLT 4.6l Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 10 Vehicle Specs	Thank you for this thread. I changed mine along with the lowers and struts this weekend. I highly recommend getting the quick struts.

02-20-2011, 10:29 PM	#100
jmacattack Wannabe Elite Explorer Texas 2004 XLT Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 12 Vehicle Specs	Did my front 2 upper ball joints today. Went with the remove-the-control-arm method. I struggled quite a bit with it. Had to recruit a friend to help. Took me ~4 hours to do both. Rented the tools from Autozone without problem.