"How to" '02 explorer rear wheel bearing replacement (pictures)

Pontisteve · 01-20-2012, 12:09 AM

You would be well advised to have them score or cut into the outer race, to weaken it before trying to press it out, if it doesnt want to come out. At least one member broke the spindle with the press. Those outer bearings are really stuck in there! I believe they may have used loctite for bearing races from the factory.

Also, be careful how you support the spindle in the press. Don't put too much stress on the arms of the spindle. Keep the support near the middle around the bearing. And read carefully about how to press the new bearing in!!

DVRDOWN · 02-02-2012, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pontisteve

After reading Toms method, it sounds great to me. Just a couple thoughts to add. 1) By REMEMBERING when to put the backing plate back on, you don't have to cut the backing plate to do this job, which is great. I remember now... that I had forgotten to reinstall the backing plate at the appropriate time. That was why I had to cut my backing plate to install it... the hub was already pressed in. And pressing the new hub back out would probably ruin the new bearing!

Ok, the owner of the truck before me for some reason decided to just remove the parking brake from the passenger side altogether where i'm working. If i pull the backing plate off the knuckle, do i even need to bother reinstalling it if I dont even have any of the e-brake componants?

Where i use to live i was spoiled and had a buddy who was a Ford tech, so $100 and he'd do the whole job for me in an hour. So now its my turn - and yes this is #7 on my RR!

Pontisteve · 02-02-2012, 07:47 PM

#7 on my RR??

The parking brake cable attaches thru a hole in the spindle, and spreads the brake shoes apart when applied. As long as the parking brake cable is still there, I would return that system back to stock. Chances are that the prior owner just didn't know what he was doing, got frustrated trying to put the brakes back on, and gave up. Now's your chance to fix that.

The parking brake system is comprised of the parking brake cable, the backing plate, the shoes, the hardware kit (springs and holddown hardware, and the self-adjuster), the rotor (which acts like a drum on the inside), and that's about all I can remember. If you have the cable still on the vehicle, and you have the backing plate, then all you're really missing is the shoes and the hardware kit.

Even if you didnt' put the parking brake stuff back on, you should retain the backing plate so that they can be fixed in the future. Otherwise, you would have to reinstall a new bearing, or cut the backing plate in half to fix it. Just remember to put the backing plate on (as a whole) before you press the bearing back in.

Mach 1 Pilot · 02-06-2012, 08:29 PM

Thanks to everyone who posted their experiences, it helped me quite a bit in looking for possible trouble spots and to confirm the tools needed. I completed a change of my RR bearing this morning... took 2.5 hours including a trip to the hardware store for more antiseize because my bottle was empty. The hardest part was finding something just the right size to press out the outer race because the inners fell out. That took about an hour. Thankfully everything else came apart and went back together rather easily.. this vehicle was originally from North Carolina so it doesn't have the usual PA rusty components.

FWIW, Advance Auto has National bearings for $56 + tax. Online Amazon has Timken for $58.20 free shipping, but the difference wasn't worth the wait. Everyone else around here had the no-name bearings for more money!

Pontisteve · 02-07-2012, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mach 1 Pilot

Thanks to everyone who posted their experiences, it helped me quite a bit in looking for possible trouble spots and to confirm the tools needed. I completed a change of my RR bearing this morning... took 2.5 hours including a trip to the hardware store for more antiseize because my bottle was empty. The hardest part was finding something just the right size to press out the outer race because the inners fell out. That took about an hour. Thankfully everything else came apart and went back together rather easily.. this vehicle was originally from North Carolina so it doesn't have the usual PA rusty components.

FWIW, Advance Auto has National bearings for $56 + tax. Online Amazon has Timken for $58.20 free shipping, but the difference wasn't worth the wait. Everyone else around here had the no-name bearings for more money!

Those are really good prices! Did they come with a new snap ring and hub? Or did you have to re-use the old ones?

And what did you find to use to press out the outer race?

Mach 1 Pilot · 02-07-2012, 09:48 PM

The price was just for the bearing, a National 516008.. And I need to correct myself a just little.... $56.99 + tax = $60.41. I reused the hub and snap ring.

Timing wise, it helps to have done something similar before.... just changed two of bearings about 4 months ago in the front of the wifey's Focus. And I have a 40 ton press in the shop, so no running for one of those.

As for the tool to press it out, I ended up finding and using a large 2 3/16", 3/4" drive socket. Whatever you use, it needs to be about 3" in diameter and fairly heavy to handle the load of the pressing action. The gauge on my press showed the peak pressure to be 12 ton. Not sure how accurate it is, though!

I drove it a bit this evening... still can't believe how much quieter it is with this changed!

Thanks again to those who posted before me, the pictures and experienced helped quicken my pace and make the experience easy!

bottechia · 02-13-2012, 12:36 AM

My bearing was seized on the rear passenger side had a hard time just pulling the hub off the axle spindle. Thank goodness I had a big impact gun to use on the hub puller for some serious torque.
Machine shop guy had a hard time pressing the hub off too, said he had to cut the hub off.
This forum made the job go so smooth with all the tips
I took the advice to torque axle nut at 175 rather then 203 seems a little much.
My Explorer sounds so quiet now almost like it was when new.

naz123 · 02-13-2012, 10:49 AM

tackling job this weekend
can i press out the bearing like the video below uses?
can i also press the bearing the same way?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4PK1jXhppE

Pontisteve · 02-13-2012, 09:48 PM

Nope, that wont work. Although you may find that FWD bearing puller to be helpful. You need a 35mm socket, 250 ft lb 1/2 drive torque wrench, hub puller, mini sledge, and pull the hub off and bust the bearings out. Then score the race quite a lot, and then take the spindle to the machine shop anx let them press out the race and press in the new bearing. Use a quality bearing... your life depends on it. Youll need a headlight adjusting tool (spring puller) to get the ebrakes off. The axle is held in by a circlip, if you decide to replace the axle seals while youre in there. Read the thread.

Remove the big snap ring before trying to press out the bearing race! You wont believe how hard that race is in there. A 20 ton press wouldnt budge mine. A larger press will simply break the spindle. Also dont support the spindle by its ears in the press. And put the backing plate on before pressing in the hub.

naz123 · 02-14-2012, 02:43 PM

Thanks for the heads up.

esclamada · 02-15-2012, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by naz123

tackling job this weekend
can i press out the bearing like the video below uses?
can i also press the bearing the same way?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4PK1jXhppE

I inquired about the hub grappler from OTC long time ago and their tech confirmed that it could do ford trucks. Since the price is so expensive, buying a press or having the shop press it for you make sense economically (unless you replace hubs/bearings every year or use it for a business) Reviews on amazon are not that stellar either. Hopefully somebody on this thread might be interested and share the review.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQLge25pUQI

-----------------------------------------------------------
MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer?sk=photos

wanderer351 · 02-28-2012, 07:52 AM

I tackled this last friday after work..I have a press and torches/goodies at the shop...

took a grinder to the end of the axleshaft so my 1 3/8 socket would get a good grip..(took about 1/4 in off the end of the non-threaded section)..

heated the bolts to get them all off...left the ebrake still connected just used a shim block to support the bearing receiver...

scored the bearing races before I even tried to press them out...it went in and out like butter!!

total took me 3hrs of not rushing!! just ordered the other ones to do over the next few weeks...

Thanks for all the tech info guys!!!

PDH · 02-28-2012, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wanderer351

took a grinder to the end of the axleshaft so my 1 3/8 socket would get a good grip..(took about 1/4 in off the end of the non-threaded section)..

heated the bolts to get them all off...left the ebrake still connected just used a shim block to support the bearing receiver...

scored the bearing races before I even tried to press them out...it went in and out like butter!!

total took me 3hrs of not rushing!! just ordered the other ones to do over the next few weeks...

Thanks for all the tech info guys!!!

Yeah, my 3/4 inch socket set wouldn't reach over the end of the axle shaft either. I almost took the grinder to it - same as you. But when I was at O'Reilly's I saw that they had a socket in their tool loan program that would work, so I picked that up, in addition to their hub puller tool. I used a 6-point 36mm socket, because they didn't have a 35mm socket. 35mm is the correct size but no problems using the 36 either.

Now that you've done the one side, the other will be even simpler and less time consuming.

naz123 · 03-07-2012, 02:35 PM

Need help everything disconnected
unable to get Hub off with hub puller

Pontisteve · 03-07-2012, 05:24 PM

The rear hub doesn't come off with a puller. The puller simply pushes the axle inward, pressing it out of the hub and toward the rear end. The spindle has to be loose and ready to swing out of the way as you press the axle inward with the hub puller. Otherwise, you're just trying to compress the axle joints.

The axle hub is pressed into a rear axle bearing. The axle bearing is pressed into the spindle from the back side, and retained by a snap ring. The CV axle just slides into the back side of the hub, and pokes out where you can put the nut onto it. The axle isn't really held into the hub by anything other than maybe time, dirt and corrosion. Once the spindle can swing freely, you use the hub puller to force the axle to break free from the hub, and slightly push it out the back side. Once it's broke free, it should come out pretty easy.

naz123 · 03-07-2012, 05:37 PM

Thanks but no good had everything disconnected per Tyler92 post
Everything was easy until attaching hub tool (same as Tyler hub puller/pusher)
Would not push the axle out of hub .
Might have to take it to the STealership.

Pontisteve · 03-07-2012, 05:54 PM

There's nothing holding the CV axleshaft end into the hub, except a little friction from dirt, wear, and galling. Spray it with PB blaster, and crank down on the hub puller centerbolt. The hub puller provides mechanical leverage pushing directly in the middle of the axle shaft. No reason that wouldn't work, if the spindle is allowed to swing loose as the axle drives inward.

You do have the axle nut removed, right?

Whatever you do, don't beat on the axle shaft. And make sure your hub puller's centerbolt is centered on the axle shaft. It's acting like a press, you almost can't lose. If you have to, upload pics.

naz123 · 03-07-2012, 09:09 PM

Thank you pontisteve tried everything put it all back together and took it to local mechanic. They too had a hard time removing hub. Off to dealer hopefully they could break it.
Wiil keep you guys posted

PDH · 03-07-2012, 09:46 PM

I'd crank down on that hub puller and then rap a tap tap with a hammer on the end of the hub puller bolt in the effort to allow the vibrations to break the corrosion bond that's holding the axle shaft tight. That'll usually break'em free unless somebody welded the axle in there (kidding on the weld). Gotta put a hefty amount of torque on that hub puller bolt.

I'm quite surprised it didn't pop the axle shaft outta there.

Gary De · 03-07-2012, 10:27 PM

It looks like you did this a while back but I sure did appreciate it, so much so I became a member to be able to log in and thank you for the time and effort to make this post. I just did my daughters 02 explorer and your post was more than extremely helpful.

By your hard work to put this together I was able to complete the drivers side wheel bearing in about 5.5 hours. I would probably still be working on it if not for your help.

Thank you again,,,,,,,,,, a few years later,,,,,,,,,,,, yes your post has a lasting affect.

Great job!

Gary

01-20-2012, 12:09 AM	#261
Pontisteve Wannabe Elite Explorer Florida 03 Eddie Bauer 4WD V8 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 413 Vehicle Specs	You would be well advised to have them score or cut into the outer race, to weaken it before trying to press it out, if it doesnt want to come out. At least one member broke the spindle with the press. Those outer bearings are really stuck in there! I believe they may have used loctite for bearing races from the factory. Also, be careful how you support the spindle in the press. Don't put too much stress on the arms of the spindle. Keep the support near the middle around the bearing. And read carefully about how to press the new bearing in!! __________________ EFI Tuner SCT Dealer and Certified Tuner

02-02-2012, 07:47 PM	#263
Pontisteve Wannabe Elite Explorer Florida 03 Eddie Bauer 4WD V8 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 413 Vehicle Specs	#7 on my RR?? The parking brake cable attaches thru a hole in the spindle, and spreads the brake shoes apart when applied. As long as the parking brake cable is still there, I would return that system back to stock. Chances are that the prior owner just didn't know what he was doing, got frustrated trying to put the brakes back on, and gave up. Now's your chance to fix that. The parking brake system is comprised of the parking brake cable, the backing plate, the shoes, the hardware kit (springs and holddown hardware, and the self-adjuster), the rotor (which acts like a drum on the inside), and that's about all I can remember. If you have the cable still on the vehicle, and you have the backing plate, then all you're really missing is the shoes and the hardware kit. Even if you didnt' put the parking brake stuff back on, you should retain the backing plate so that they can be fixed in the future. Otherwise, you would have to reinstall a new bearing, or cut the backing plate in half to fix it. Just remember to put the backing plate on (as a whole) before you press the bearing back in. __________________ EFI Tuner SCT Dealer and Certified Tuner

02-06-2012, 08:29 PM	#264
Mach 1 Pilot Wannabe Elite Explorer Ryot, PA '02 4.6 4x4 XLT Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 16 Vehicle Specs	Just completed this repair today Thanks to everyone who posted their experiences, it helped me quite a bit in looking for possible trouble spots and to confirm the tools needed. I completed a change of my RR bearing this morning... took 2.5 hours including a trip to the hardware store for more antiseize because my bottle was empty. The hardest part was finding something just the right size to press out the outer race because the inners fell out. That took about an hour. Thankfully everything else came apart and went back together rather easily.. this vehicle was originally from North Carolina so it doesn't have the usual PA rusty components. FWIW, Advance Auto has National bearings for $56 + tax. Online Amazon has Timken for $58.20 free shipping, but the difference wasn't worth the wait. Everyone else around here had the no-name bearings for more money!

02-13-2012, 10:49 AM	#268
naz123 Wannabe Elite Explorer Fl 2003 explorer lmtd Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 14 Vehicle Specs	can this work tackling job this weekend can i press out the bearing like the video below uses? can i also press the bearing the same way? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4PK1jXhppE

02-13-2012, 09:48 PM	#269
Pontisteve Wannabe Elite Explorer Florida 03 Eddie Bauer 4WD V8 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 413 Vehicle Specs	Nope, that wont work. Although you may find that FWD bearing puller to be helpful. You need a 35mm socket, 250 ft lb 1/2 drive torque wrench, hub puller, mini sledge, and pull the hub off and bust the bearings out. Then score the race quite a lot, and then take the spindle to the machine shop anx let them press out the race and press in the new bearing. Use a quality bearing... your life depends on it. Youll need a headlight adjusting tool (spring puller) to get the ebrakes off. The axle is held in by a circlip, if you decide to replace the axle seals while youre in there. Read the thread. Remove the big snap ring before trying to press out the bearing race! You wont believe how hard that race is in there. A 20 ton press wouldnt budge mine. A larger press will simply break the spindle. Also dont support the spindle by its ears in the press. And put the backing plate on before pressing in the hub. __________________ EFI Tuner SCT Dealer and Certified Tuner

02-07-2012, 09:48 PM	#266
Mach 1 Pilot Wannabe Elite Explorer Ryot, PA '02 4.6 4x4 XLT Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 16 Vehicle Specs	The price was just for the bearing, a National 516008.. And I need to correct myself a just little.... $56.99 + tax = $60.41. I reused the hub and snap ring. Timing wise, it helps to have done something similar before.... just changed two of bearings about 4 months ago in the front of the wifey's Focus. And I have a 40 ton press in the shop, so no running for one of those. As for the tool to press it out, I ended up finding and using a large 2 3/16", 3/4" drive socket. Whatever you use, it needs to be about 3" in diameter and fairly heavy to handle the load of the pressing action. The gauge on my press showed the peak pressure to be 12 ton. Not sure how accurate it is, though! I drove it a bit this evening... still can't believe how much quieter it is with this changed! Thanks again to those who posted before me, the pictures and experienced helped quicken my pace and make the experience easy!

02-13-2012, 12:36 AM	#267
bottechia Wannabe Elite Explorer 2002 ford explorer Ltd Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	My bearing was seized on the rear passenger side had a hard time just pulling the hub off the axle spindle. Thank goodness I had a big impact gun to use on the hub puller for some serious torque. Machine shop guy had a hard time pressing the hub off too, said he had to cut the hub off. This forum made the job go so smooth with all the tips I took the advice to torque axle nut at 175 rather then 203 seems a little much. My Explorer sounds so quiet now almost like it was when new.

02-14-2012, 02:43 PM	#270
naz123 Wannabe Elite Explorer Fl 2003 explorer lmtd Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 14 Vehicle Specs	Thanks for the heads up.

02-28-2012, 07:52 AM	#272
wanderer351 Wannabe Elite Explorer Columbus,OH Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 226 Vehicle Specs	I tackled this last friday after work..I have a press and torches/goodies at the shop... took a grinder to the end of the axleshaft so my 1 3/8 socket would get a good grip..(took about 1/4 in off the end of the non-threaded section).. heated the bolts to get them all off...left the ebrake still connected just used a shim block to support the bearing receiver... scored the bearing races before I even tried to press them out...it went in and out like butter!! total took me 3hrs of not rushing!! just ordered the other ones to do over the next few weeks... Thanks for all the tech info guys!!!

03-07-2012, 02:35 PM	#274
naz123 Wannabe Elite Explorer Fl 2003 explorer lmtd Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 14 Vehicle Specs	Need help everything disconnected unable to get Hub off with hub puller

03-07-2012, 05:24 PM	#275
Pontisteve Wannabe Elite Explorer Florida 03 Eddie Bauer 4WD V8 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 413 Vehicle Specs	The rear hub doesn't come off with a puller. The puller simply pushes the axle inward, pressing it out of the hub and toward the rear end. The spindle has to be loose and ready to swing out of the way as you press the axle inward with the hub puller. Otherwise, you're just trying to compress the axle joints. The axle hub is pressed into a rear axle bearing. The axle bearing is pressed into the spindle from the back side, and retained by a snap ring. The CV axle just slides into the back side of the hub, and pokes out where you can put the nut onto it. The axle isn't really held into the hub by anything other than maybe time, dirt and corrosion. Once the spindle can swing freely, you use the hub puller to force the axle to break free from the hub, and slightly push it out the back side. Once it's broke free, it should come out pretty easy. __________________ EFI Tuner SCT Dealer and Certified Tuner

03-07-2012, 05:37 PM	#276
naz123 Wannabe Elite Explorer Fl 2003 explorer lmtd Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 14 Vehicle Specs	Thanks but no good had everything disconnected per Tyler92 post Everything was easy until attaching hub tool (same as Tyler hub puller/pusher) Would not push the axle out of hub . Might have to take it to the STealership.

03-07-2012, 05:54 PM	#277
Pontisteve Wannabe Elite Explorer Florida 03 Eddie Bauer 4WD V8 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 413 Vehicle Specs	There's nothing holding the CV axleshaft end into the hub, except a little friction from dirt, wear, and galling. Spray it with PB blaster, and crank down on the hub puller centerbolt. The hub puller provides mechanical leverage pushing directly in the middle of the axle shaft. No reason that wouldn't work, if the spindle is allowed to swing loose as the axle drives inward. You do have the axle nut removed, right? Whatever you do, don't beat on the axle shaft. And make sure your hub puller's centerbolt is centered on the axle shaft. It's acting like a press, you almost can't lose. If you have to, upload pics. __________________ EFI Tuner SCT Dealer and Certified Tuner

03-07-2012, 09:09 PM	#278
naz123 Wannabe Elite Explorer Fl 2003 explorer lmtd Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 14 Vehicle Specs	Thank you pontisteve tried everything put it all back together and took it to local mechanic. They too had a hard time removing hub. Off to dealer hopefully they could break it. Wiil keep you guys posted

03-07-2012, 09:46 PM	#279
PDH Wannabe Elite Explorer Alaska '94 XLT & 2002 XLT Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 32 Vehicle Specs	I'd crank down on that hub puller and then rap a tap tap with a hammer on the end of the hub puller bolt in the effort to allow the vibrations to break the corrosion bond that's holding the axle shaft tight. That'll usually break'em free unless somebody welded the axle in there (kidding on the weld). Gotta put a hefty amount of torque on that hub puller bolt. I'm quite surprised it didn't pop the axle shaft outta there.

03-07-2012, 10:27 PM	#280
Gary De Wannabe Elite Explorer Central Wi 2004 Ranger Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	Thank you It looks like you did this a while back but I sure did appreciate it, so much so I became a member to be able to log in and thank you for the time and effort to make this post. I just did my daughters 02 explorer and your post was more than extremely helpful. By your hard work to put this together I was able to complete the drivers side wheel bearing in about 5.5 hours. I would probably still be working on it if not for your help. Thank you again,,,,,,,,,, a few years later,,,,,,,,,,,, yes your post has a lasting affect. Great job! Gary