Grinding a tooth on the ring gear

KPSquared · 08-23-2009, 06:45 PM

I am in the middle of my gear swap on my 8.8. I am going to have to grind down a tooth on the ring gear to get the cross pin back in.

I just want to make sure I have all my ideas right in my head before I do this...

I should probably get everything set up before I grind down the tooth, correct?

Like if I grind the tooth and the run out is off and I have to rotate the ring gear on the carrier, the notch will be in the wrong spot.

This all makes sense to me, I just want to make sure I am not missing anything.

Torque the ring gear onto the carrier, install, tighten everything. Check back lash, runout, and pattern... Adjust, check, adjust, check, etc... once it's all perfect, reinstall everything but notch the ring gear at this time. I shouldn't need to notch it prior to this...

I know this sounds like a lot of babble but I am just a little nervous about my first gear change...

*gmanpaint* · 08-23-2009, 06:56 PM

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*dkchrist* · 08-23-2009, 07:12 PM

Sounds about right take you time and be very meticulous and everything should be fine. If you can check the pinion depth to start it will greatly decrease the time to install the gears.

Edit: Be sure you understand all the specs and have read through plenty of material. The more you understand about the process the easier things will be.

08-23-2009, 06:45 PM	#1
KPSquared Wannabe Elite Explorer Wetaskiwin, Alberta '92 XLT Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 649 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Grinding a tooth on the ring gear I am in the middle of my gear swap on my 8.8. I am going to have to grind down a tooth on the ring gear to get the cross pin back in. I just want to make sure I have all my ideas right in my head before I do this... I should probably get everything set up before I grind down the tooth, correct? Like if I grind the tooth and the run out is off and I have to rotate the ring gear on the carrier, the notch will be in the wrong spot. This all makes sense to me, I just want to make sure I am not missing anything. Torque the ring gear onto the carrier, install, tighten everything. Check back lash, runout, and pattern... Adjust, check, adjust, check, etc... once it's all perfect, reinstall everything but notch the ring gear at this time. I shouldn't need to notch it prior to this... I know this sounds like a lot of babble but I am just a little nervous about my first gear change... __________________ 1992 XLT \| 5.5" Superlift \| SOA \| SJ Extended Brake Lines \| Rancho RS 5000 \| 35x12.50x15 Cooper STT \| 15x8 AR767 \| Dana 35 Nitro 4.88 \| \| Ford 8.8 Yukon 4.88 \| Aussie Lockers Front and Rear \| Cherrybomb Vortex \| 8" Pro-Comp 130's \| Still To Come: Custom Bumpers & Roof Rack, More Lights, Winch, OD GREEN

08-23-2009, 06:56 PM	#2
gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free since 2010 94 XLT-95 FX4 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 6,926 Vehicle Specs	[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] __________________ The Black Hole Pugly

08-23-2009, 07:12 PM	#3
dkchrist I am here...I think Ellsworth, KS '03 Ranger XLT 4x4 Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 1,274 Vehicle Specs	Sounds about right take you time and be very meticulous and everything should be fine. If you can check the pinion depth to start it will greatly decrease the time to install the gears. Edit: Be sure you understand all the specs and have read through plenty of material. The more you understand about the process the easier things will be. __________________ My 2003 Ranger Deep Blue- My Registry My Ranger for Sale Daniel Last edited by dkchrist; 08-23-2009 at 07:13 PM. Reason: more info