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AVM Hubs

haunas

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ranger 4.0L V6 4x4
Just bought some AVM hubs and reading The Ranger Station Forum it seems that the AVM's may not be as durable as I first thought. It seems that alot of the hubs have been blowing out or getting shredded (believe it was the axle shredding the hubs). Anyone here have any goods or bads of the AVM's? I am putting them in hoping they will last some time and hopefully they will last but if not looking at seeing if I can change to Warn's or Mile Marker's. Thoughts, or comments?
 



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...AVM's are a great replacement for the 99-00 Ranger PVH hubs...You get to now freewheel (4x2) with manual hubs and you loose the vacuum problem completely..;)

...I like to think of them as the equivalent of earlier model manual hubs...If you offroad, pre run, or abuse them, they will need replacing...AVM also makes service kits for their hubs too...
http://www.avm.com.br/products4.htm
 






It sounds kind of hypocritical to have manual locking hubs that are supposedly more reliable than the PVH that you cannot off road or use them for what they are made to be used for without having to replace. If they take a crap guess I will talk to some others locally to see if they can do a SAS.
 






...I'm not getting your point...:scratch:

...They are more reliable and they are also replaceable...If your hubs were any more stout, you would break hard parts that are a lot more expensive...Earlier Ranger hubs cost more than the AVM's...

...Do you think that these should be bullet proof?...BTW, where are you located?
 






My biggest concern to what you said was that if I was to off road my truck with the AVM's then they would need replacing. That kind of worries me as I would hate to be stuck out in the woods somewhere and the hubs depart from the axle. Maybe not bulletproof but I sure do like the look the stoutness of the Warn hubs especially with their guarantee. Hawaii.
 






...If you find something you like better, by all means do it...

...It would be nice to have more info on the other hubs, their cost, and durability...If you do swap hubs take plenty of pics and do a write up...It could earn you free "Elite" privileges...
 






Lets clear up some misnomers.

These are hubs:
2562701180080149338S500x500Q85.jpg


These are lockouts:
mWARN%20Standard%20Lockout%20Hub%20Set%208186%20CJ%2028751.jpg


Having said that, if the lockouts depart from the axle, the vehicle can still roll and limp back to camp. Lockouts only allow the axle shaft to drive the wheels.
 






...Per wiki...:dunno:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hubs

Hub means the centre of a wheel. By analogy, it generally means 'center' or 'important place', and may refer to:

# Locking hubs, accessory on four-wheel drive vehicles

...From Warn Ind....:scratch:
http://www.warn.com/powertrain/company_milestones.shtml
1948 Arthur Warn invents the Locking Hub in Seattle, Washington
1954 WARN locking hubs are offered as optional factory equipment by major domestic automotive manufacturers
 






Exactly, that is fundamentally what a hub is. THe lockout is not a hub because it does not retain the wheel. The lockout is not what the wheel bolts to - the wheel bolts to the hub. Therefore, the "Warn" lockout is not a hub because it does not retain the wheel. The wheel does not interface with the lockout, it interfaces with the hub.
 












Sorry I was responding more to this "That kind of worries me as I would hate to be stuck out in the woods somewhere and the hubs depart from the axle."

A busted AVM lockout wont wreck you in the woods.
 






And let's not forget - Warn and others are made for '97 and earlier trucks with a Dana 35 or Dana 28 TTB axle. AVM lockouts are made for '99 - '00 Dana 35 IFS trucks.

(Unless, of course, you modify your post '00 truck to use the lockouts - writeup coming soon!)
 






...ScottB, have you already gotten your AVM's and how soon are you talking???...It would be nice to have a true AVM hub writeup here with trail updates...:biggthump

(Unless, of course, you modify your post '00 truck to use the lockouts - writeup coming soon!)
...Not sure who you meant...:dunno:
 






Yes, I have my AVM locking hubs.

I am going to convert my '06 FX4 to manually locking front hubs from the live axle configuration. I have the hubs, and new axle stub shafts. All I need are two unit bearings ('98 style with internal splines) - they are over $200 each new, so I am saving my pennies.

As for trail updates, no promises. My '06 doesn't see a lot of dirt - what it does see isn't exactly "difficult." :p:
 












dkchrist good to know you are using your lock outs/hubs (Per Warn, AVM, etc) and have taken it off-roading I assume. I got stuck in some mud and had to really work to get out when my PVH went TU. Glad to know that you have been using yours often.
 






I avoid mud. Be sure to replace the seal on the knuckle and set the depth the same as the current seal. Just a warning the seals are kinda pricey $30 or so a side and are difficult to put in but are a must if you see much water/mud. Also, replace the o-ring under the hub. It should be like a couple bucks from ford. Once that is done enjoy the new reliablity.
 






dkchrist - I just installed the AVM hubs and I know that I will probably be seeing mud since that is the main time I need to use 4x4 to get to to where I need to go. Are there any pictures on where this seal is on the knuckle as well as the o-ring you are talking about is that the o-ring that comes in the AVM box or is this a different o-ring? Thanks. Chris
 






The o-rings in the box take should take care of it unless there was mud water in the PVH hub when you removed it. Then, you will need other seals.

Wheel Bearing to knuckle O-ring- F87Z-1177-AA
Wheel Bearing to locking Hub O-ring (came w/ the AVMs)- F87Z-1177-BA
Knuckle to CV Shaft Seal- F87Z-1190-AA

Here are the numbers for the o-rings and seals.

Look at post 15 for some more pictures. The National seal is the o reillys version of F87Z-1190-AA
 



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DK- Thanks for the help. The innards of PVH hub and CV joint was actually clean. No mud or water was in there and prior to reinstall cleaned with non-chlorinated brake cleaner letting dry then lightly oiling with 5w-20 and installing. Thanks again for all the help and the install was easy and fun.
 






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