Blinker (flasher) fuse keeps blowing when the truck is started. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Blinker (flasher) fuse keeps blowing when the truck is started.

treedotn

New Member
Joined
January 8, 2010
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
City, State
Trenton, Ga
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Explorer Sport
if i just turn the switch on they work but if i actually start the truck the fuse blows immediatly!! is that just a wireing problem (someting shorting out) or coould that be from bad bulbs? 94 X sport
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











have you tried replacing the flasher itself?
 






i changed the relay thing....the round deal with the fuses but i havn't checked the bulbs yet
 






I had a similar problem however I only blew the fuse when I put it in reverse, not simply turn it on, as I had a direct short in the wiring to the reverse lights that happened at some point. Since that fuse also controls your reverse lights and rear-defroster you may want to check those areas also.
 






I had a similar problem however I only blew the fuse when I put it in reverse, not simply turn it on, as I had a direct short in the wiring to the reverse lights that happened at some point. Since that fuse also controls your reverse lights and rear-defroster you may want to check those areas also.

Don't lie, you were just low on fluid :D
 






Well I was low, but that wasn't the contributing problem... yet. Speaking of which I need to get down to the auto store and pick up some defroster fluid, thanks for reminding me. ;)
 






Check to see if the fuse blows when the Signal relay is removed then you know it's not the signal light system. Also you know it's not the reverse lights if it's not in revese.

I am having the same problem as you but have not checked any further than that, the fuse for signal lights opperates the signals the signal display in the clstr, the reverse lights, the rear defroster system, and it goes to the driver lights system and a diode block.

If you remove the signal relay and don't put it in reverse and remove the rear defrost switch then the only thing it's connected to is the diode block and the DRL module (Driver lights) then you know if the fuse blows it's either a wire after the fuse to any one of those connectors or switches or the DRL or Diode Block.

If it only blows while signals are on you know that system (could be the multi switch on the colum as those are weak in longevity as I'm told)

Hope this helps!
 






Check to see if the fuse blows when the Signal relay is removed then you know it's not the signal light system. Also you know it's not the reverse lights if it's not in revese.

I am having the same problem as you but have not checked any further than that, the fuse for signal lights opperates the signals the signal display in the clstr, the reverse lights, the rear defroster system, and it goes to the driver lights system and a diode block.

If you remove the signal relay and don't put it in reverse and remove the rear defrost switch then the only thing it's connected to is the diode block and the DRL module (Driver lights) then you know if the fuse blows it's either a wire after the fuse to any one of those connectors or switches or the DRL or Diode Block.

If it only blows while signals are on you know that system (could be the multi switch on the colum as those are weak in longevity as I'm told)

Hope this helps!
I'm having similar problems, 92 xlt. The fuse to the turn signal keeps blowing. I've disconnected the rear defrost, the flasher relay, and its not in reverse. The fuse blows as soon as I turn it to the accessories (before I even start the explorer). I thought it was the ignition warning wire. The plastic piece was broken. I removed the wire put in a fuse and boom! Turn signals again. It only lasted about a mile down the road after 4 turn and the fuse blew again.

What is the diode that Iceking is talking about? How do I check to see if that is the problem.

I also checked the trailer wiring. I didn't notice anything wrong.

Any ideas?
 






Ok I fixed my problem finnaly had time to work on MY truck in the shop..... hope this helps!!!

1- first of all the diode block.... I could not get any further wiring diagrams regarding this; I am assuming they are just mounted inline and who knows where they are located; this is very unlikely to cause a problem. It simply rectifyes the current so you don't have any upstream issues will all the systems.

2- the DRL module; although the signal lights and connected systems don't opperate anything in the DRL there is no exact wiring diagram or explanation to this connection; I can only assume a minor role and doubt this would cause a problem

Both 1 and 2 I assume would be an issue less than 5%

3- My issue was faulty wiring in the Signal light circuit; as with yours it seems since you fallowed my instructions; my issue was the circuit going down to the Reverse light switch towards the transmission, the wiring had warn through due to a combination of head from the exhaust and wear from the front axle driveshaft/ 4X4 shaft.

Steps to fix:

1- Park vehicle on streight level ground, parking brake, blocks, in gear or park ect "Safe Mode"

2- Disconnect battery Neg connector for safety due to the fact that your hand/arm might be up near the starter and it will be 'Hot'

3- Place front end of vehicle up on jack stands and Block, please do not just rely on a Jack, as some times these cylinders leak and also brace both sides of vehicle to not create a tipping hazard!

4- Get a light, coverals, Creep or peice of cardboard, this should safice for inspection

5- crawl under vehicle to inspect!

What you are looking for: (unfortunately I have a std transmission not an automatic, although there are severe differences I will assume they would be similar and can only explain this one way)

On Driver's side of vehicle you will see the tube for the Clutch slave it comes from the front of the firewall down, overtop of the frame and back into the side of the transmission; it will have a Gold connector fitting approx 3/4" diameter you will see just to the rear of the slave and up more towards where the shift lever exits the top of the transmission the connector for the reverse lights switch.

Fallow this cable back along the frame and up past the 4X D.S. and right hand bank exhaust manifold it will go up into a wiring harness. It will also combine with a blank connector that does not appear to be used for the Standard transmission/ transfercase with manual hubs. It is possably for auto lockers or auto 4X4, I did not take the time to look this up. Hopefully you don't use this and it is warn worse than the reverse lights as was mine.

If you look at and near both the D/S and Manifold check these wires very carefully to see if there is any wear mine had burned through both near the exhaust and D/S but the unused connector was worse.

The Repair of the above problem:

1- Disconnect the reverse light switch and unclip all cable claps ect so this leg of the harness is loose.

2- for ease of repair remember where this harness connect to the main harness body from above it will be somewhere near the a/c compressor and dipstick beside the window washer bottle. With the harness laying loose on the ground remove jack stands and lower vehicle to normal height; stand near the driver's fender and pull the harness with the connector and reverse light plug up through the engine bay and out over the fender to inspect and repair.

3- remove all old tape and wire sheath covering the wires starding at the connector and working up BEYOND the visible damage in the wires

4- I cut off and removed the unused connector as it is doing more harm than good. If you are confident replace or repair the damaged wiring where applicable if not have an electrician help you or do it!

5- Tape up all wires, add new wire sheath (you can buy this almost anywhere wire or vehicle accessories are sold)

6- Re- Route cable to prevent future damage! Basically I routed mine down on the plastic inner fender near the frame fallowing the rear wireing harnessses that go from the outside of the frame through a small hole in the frame (yes the connector fits but be carefull not to break off any of the plastic tabs it is a tight fit) then along the inside of the frame till it jumps accross to the transmission and plugs into the switch.

This way there is no possable future issues due to heat or wear and tear.

I hope this helps

If this wiring looks good then there must be some wires elsewhere in the system that are damaged. Check all areas where exposure to rocks gravel snow ice are found. Sorry but this could be a long hard fix if you are hunting wires on a vehicle. Best results will be found by getting help from an auto mechanic or Explorer 'expert'

Good Luck!
 






Ok I fixed my problem finnaly had time to work on MY truck in the shop..... hope this helps!!!

1- first of all the diode block.... I could not get any further wiring diagrams regarding this; I am assuming they are just mounted inline and who knows where they are located; this is very unlikely to cause a problem. It simply rectifyes the current so you don't have any upstream issues will all the systems.

2- the DRL module; although the signal lights and connected systems don't opperate anything in the DRL there is no exact wiring diagram or explanation to this connection; I can only assume a minor role and doubt this would cause a problem

Both 1 and 2 I assume would be an issue less than 5%

3- My issue was faulty wiring in the Signal light circuit; as with yours it seems since you fallowed my instructions; my issue was the circuit going down to the Reverse light switch towards the transmission, the wiring had warn through due to a combination of head from the exhaust and wear from the front axle driveshaft/ 4X4 shaft.

Steps to fix:

1- Park vehicle on streight level ground, parking brake, blocks, in gear or park ect "Safe Mode"

2- Disconnect battery Neg connector for safety due to the fact that your hand/arm might be up near the starter and it will be 'Hot'

3- Place front end of vehicle up on jack stands and Block, please do not just rely on a Jack, as some times these cylinders leak and also brace both sides of vehicle to not create a tipping hazard!

4- Get a light, coverals, Creep or peice of cardboard, this should safice for inspection

5- crawl under vehicle to inspect!

What you are looking for: (unfortunately I have a std transmission not an automatic, although there are severe differences I will assume they would be similar and can only explain this one way)

On Driver's side of vehicle you will see the tube for the Clutch slave it comes from the front of the firewall down, overtop of the frame and back into the side of the transmission; it will have a Gold connector fitting approx 3/4" diameter you will see just to the rear of the slave and up more towards where the shift lever exits the top of the transmission the connector for the reverse lights switch.

Fallow this cable back along the frame and up past the 4X D.S. and right hand bank exhaust manifold it will go up into a wiring harness. It will also combine with a blank connector that does not appear to be used for the Standard transmission/ transfercase with manual hubs. It is possably for auto lockers or auto 4X4, I did not take the time to look this up. Hopefully you don't use this and it is warn worse than the reverse lights as was mine.

If you look at and near both the D/S and Manifold check these wires very carefully to see if there is any wear mine had burned through both near the exhaust and D/S but the unused connector was worse.

The Repair of the above problem:

1- Disconnect the reverse light switch and unclip all cable claps ect so this leg of the harness is loose.

2- for ease of repair remember where this harness connect to the main harness body from above it will be somewhere near the a/c compressor and dipstick beside the window washer bottle. With the harness laying loose on the ground remove jack stands and lower vehicle to normal height; stand near the driver's fender and pull the harness with the connector and reverse light plug up through the engine bay and out over the fender to inspect and repair.

3- remove all old tape and wire sheath covering the wires starding at the connector and working up BEYOND the visible damage in the wires

4- I cut off and removed the unused connector as it is doing more harm than good. If you are confident replace or repair the damaged wiring where applicable if not have an electrician help you or do it!

5- Tape up all wires, add new wire sheath (you can buy this almost anywhere wire or vehicle accessories are sold)

6- Re- Route cable to prevent future damage! Basically I routed mine down on the plastic inner fender near the frame fallowing the rear wireing harnessses that go from the outside of the frame through a small hole in the frame (yes the connector fits but be carefull not to break off any of the plastic tabs it is a tight fit) then along the inside of the frame till it jumps accross to the transmission and plugs into the switch.

This way there is no possable future issues due to heat or wear and tear.

I hope this helps

If this wiring looks good then there must be some wires elsewhere in the system that are damaged. Check all areas where exposure to rocks gravel snow ice are found. Sorry but this could be a long hard fix if you are hunting wires on a vehicle. Best results will be found by getting help from an auto mechanic or Explorer 'expert'

Good Luck!
Long time but very helpful post! My fella replaced my tranny in my Ranger then suddenly the turn signal fuse would blow the second I turned the truck on, no reverse lights either. After reading your post problem was obvious! He said he’d pinched the lighting wire plastic wrap when reinstalling the transmission but was hoping he didn’t pinch the wires (but he did). Back on the lift fixing wires now
 






Back
Top