How to tell if cv joint is bad??

How can i tell if a CV joint is bad? The rubber boot seems in great condition and everything spins ok. should there be any play in it or no?

What model?
What are the symptoms?

it should feel very solid no side/side or up/down movement, any would be bad. Also try grabbing the shaft and cv joint and twist them in opposite directions you should find no movement. Just rotating the whole shaft you might find some rotational play but that actually in the diff case and is ok, sometimes referred to a gear lash or gear slack; when you do it the joint and shaft rotate together. If your still unsure check the other side.

so there should be no ( in or out play) my one has a little play while the other is pretty solid

the in/out is ok, inside the joint, the shaft length needs to change as you go over bumps.

can you get a pic?

a pic isnt really gonna show much, do need to replace the driver side seal on the front transfer case.

By stating "driver side seal on the front transfer case" are you referring to the front axle which connects to the halfshafts and contains the differential? If the axle seals are leaking, you might want to check your fluid level in the front axle. Remove the fill/drain bolt (a square bolt on the side) and put your finger in and feel for lube. Should be right at the bottom of the fill hole on a level surface.

However, since the majority of the axle lube lies below the level of the axle tubes, there is little/no risk that your differential will run dry, but the shafts and bearings at the outer end of the axle tubes like to be lubed by that little puddle of oil and will likely punish you if they go dry.

Again, what symptoms are you experiencing? Popping when cornering at low speeds? Grinding sound? Clunk when transitioning throttle, etc ,etc?

SmoothJimmy said:

Again, what symptoms are you experiencing? Popping when cornering at low speeds? Grinding sound? Clunk when transitioning throttle, etc ,etc?

Click to expand...

yes yes and yes.....Took it to a mechanic to take a look and listen to it, he called his buddy that a mechanic and Ford Garage and they are thinking its the clutch in the TC(transfer case)

If you have the AWD, (no switches on the dash), then binding in tight turns or tight slow figure 8's then its an indication of a failed viscous, there is a thread about another one going bad. . .the test is to remove the front drive shaft, which tests not only the drive shaft but the xfr case. If the binding is gone its about 90% its the viscous, if the grinding or growl is still there its the most likely the front diff. If a seal is leaking sometimes that indicates the bearing is going bad in the diff.

Sorry, slightly off topic - do the rear axels pop out with a slide hammer? I have one that needs to be changed.