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Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers Questions related to non-modified 1995-2001 Explorer, Mountaineer, Ranger and '02+ Sports and Sport Trac.

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Old 02-05-2010, 10:23 AM   #1
tyri77
98 Explorer Limited 4X4
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14

Vehicle Specs

Driver side window wont roll down evenly

Does anyone know what parts i might need, or how to fix my driver side window? When I start to roll it down the front side of the window rolls down, but the back side of the window stays in place. This obviously binds up the window in a forward tilted position. I havent taken the door panel off yet to see what is wrong I am just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue. This is on a 98 Ford Explorer.
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:33 AM   #2
Xplorer82
OH.
'97 XLT
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 469

Vehicle Specs

same here, i just deal w/it tho.. but subscribed.




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Old 02-05-2010, 01:21 PM   #3
TooManyTrucks
Michigan
95 Eddie Bauer
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 73

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I had a similar problem happen to my 95, It turned out to be the adhesive that holds the mount to the glass. Simple fix, just deal with it before you shatter the glass...if its not this it will be one of the brackets that holds the window mechanism to the door...




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Old 02-09-2010, 04:33 PM   #4
tyri77
98 Explorer Limited 4X4
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14

Vehicle Specs

Thanks I will give it a try, any suggestions on which adhesive to use?
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:50 AM   #5
SmoothJimmy
Novato, CA
1996 XLT 5.0L AWD
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 82

Vehicle Specs

I was "lucky" to have to replace all the passenger-side glass last year after someone decided to go on a rock-throwing binge. The connection between the glass and the lift mechanism is a pinch fit with some sticky stuff iirc. Sounds like the rear connection is no longer pinching/sticking. There are a few recessed screws and lots of brittle friction tabs holding the door panels in place.

You MIGHT be able to assist the window movement by dry-lubing the rear guide that the glass runs in. Could make a mess tho. Your call.
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:00 PM   #6
bullnerd
central jersey
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 64

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My 2000 has the same problem,however it isn't just slipping out of the "tape" or channel.The regulator is made out of bent sheet metal and is actually bending under the load.I tried to bend it back inside the door but there isnt room do do much.Auto zone/advance auto (i forget which one)sells a replacement for like 35$ ,waiting for warmer weather to do mine.I would pull the panel and take a look before you buy anything.
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Old 02-15-2010, 02:11 PM   #7
tyri77
98 Explorer Limited 4X4
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 14

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Thanks for the great advise everyone, I to am waiting for a warmer day to tear this apart and see what is going on. I will let you know what happens.
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:08 PM   #8
beach
south florida
Mountaineer
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 234

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Had this same problem, its a pain in the ass to do but quite simple to fix, just sucks b/c there isn't a lot of room with the door even wide open, as you have to work at an angle inside the door. At the bottom of the glass you'll see the glide has two (at least I think mine did?) metal clips at the bottom holding the window. My rear one had completely detached. Bought adhesive, think silicone glue can't recall but it bonded for glass/metal. I carefully used a few tools, razor and sandpaper to clean the area where it clipped and remove as much of the old stuff as possible. I then bent the clip tighter so it had some spring to it to sorta grip tighter against the window.

Then just used the adhesive and made sure it was tight and rolled the window up and left in palce for a 1-2 days before using, still works fine today. See if you can get an adhesive with a longer tube or attachment though as it will make it easier to use to put inside the clip.

here's my thread with pics:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=248867
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:33 PM   #9
DanaM
Elite Explorer
Columbus
2001 Sport 4WD
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 116

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TMT,

not trying to steal the thread but you have an 85 RX7 and 70 Stang in your sig. Would to see pics of both those rides. I use to buy nothing but RX7s when I was younger and I love that year stang.

Thx!

D a n a

Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyTrucks View Post
I had a similar problem happen to my 95, It turned out to be the adhesive that holds the mount to the glass. Simple fix, just deal with it before you shatter the glass...if its not this it will be one of the brackets that holds the window mechanism to the door...




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Old 02-17-2010, 12:04 AM   #10
alohamonte
Portland, OR
1998 Explorer 4.0 4x4
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 391

Vehicle Specs

My drivers side front window rolls down unevenly, but rolls up fine.

I took the door panel off. And it went up and down completely smooth. No problem with the adhesive bond. The problem is that there is some play in the track and the friction of the door panel/inside weather strip is rubbing up against he window and causes the unevenness. Any suggestions?




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Old 02-19-2010, 11:53 PM   #11
larryb1999
Osage Beach, Missouri
1999 Mountaineer
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 3

Vehicle Specs

I am having the same driver's door glass problem on my '99 Mountaineer. The clip-to-glass issue sounds logical to me. Am going to attempt repair tomorrow. Hope that's it, if I find something else, I'll post it. Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-21-2010, 12:56 AM   #12
larryb1999
Osage Beach, Missouri
1999 Mountaineer
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 3

Vehicle Specs

Completed my driver's side window repair today. Looked for the clip problem, but that was fine. What I found was that the glass had come completely out of both tracks and the binding had caused the scissor arms to twist out of shape. I removed the rear track which allowed the glass to slip back into the front track. I then re-installed the rear track on the glass. The glass slipped out again and after some experimenting, I discovered that both tracks attach to the door at the bottom via the adjusting bolts through a curved and rather thin sheet metal bracket. It ultimately took some creative bending of the brackets and adjusting of the attaching bolts to hold the glass evenly and allow it to run smoothly up and down. I took some contorted moves, but fortunately I was able to straighten the scissor arms and did not have to replace. I don't think this would be a pleasant job! It was a good 2 hours work, but it now works perfectly and the best part is that the total cost
was $0. Thanks for the suggestions. Hope this helps somebody else.
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