Replacing Jackshaft & Left cam cassette tensioners...and more?

[skloczko]

Hi all. So here's my weekend project so far... It started with my friends father giving me a '98 Explorer XLT 4.0 SOHC. (Loadedddddd). This thing was noisey as hell...but it was free. The guys story goes like this - "I was on the highway and someone pissed me off, I pegged it kamikaze style and the noises started".

It drove pretty smooth surprisingly on the way to my house, so I took it on as a project.

Upon removing the left valve cover, and with a bit of help from Gold984's posts for the same project...I discovered there was no tensioner on the cam chain...busted right off.

Got the part from Autozone "Left cassette/timing kit 4 pcs". Duralast...would like the Ford part but I have done quite a bit of work on my old GMC with Duralast parts and they've been consistent.

The last two days have been spent removing the accessories from the front of the engine, draining fluids, removing the radiator, crankshaft pulley, timing cover, blown apart tensioner pieces.

Once I removed the timing cover the job got more interesting....jackshaft tensioner was blown apart, pieces everywhere, similar to Gold984's situation.

Figuring out how to post pictures now to give a short extension of Gold984s project, and share the problems I came across.

[skloczko]

Forgot to post link to Gold984's project. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...highlight=tick

[2000StreetRod]

Since you have the upper intake manifold off I suggest that you take the time to remove the right valve cover and inspect the rear guide assembly. Most members experience the jackshaft chain tensioner as the first failure, the left upper guide assembly as the second failure, and the rear guide assembly as the last failure. When I pulled my valve covers I was surprised to find my left upper in good shape but my right rear destroyed. I won't know about the jackshaft chain tensioner for a few days when I get my engine pulled and the timing cover removed.

[skloczko]

Really did not want to even think about it haha. I dont have the manifold off, but I think it will be a good idea to take the right valve cover off to at least do a visual inspection of that side. Also plan on removing oil pan and will check from the bottom as well.

Really hoping theres nothing wrong back there, wouldnt be too happy about having to pull the engine.

Pics on their way.

[skloczko]

Ah! Upper intake manifold, that would be the black plastic intake part on top of the manifold....yes thats off, sorry.

[skloczko]

First steps, upper intake piece, and left valve cover

[skloczko]

That was a big pic....sorry

[skloczko]

No tensioner/guide on the right there, and chain has been hitting the inside of the cover

[skloczko]

Draining the radiator while removing the accessories from the front of the engine. Alternator is a couple wires and three bolts, have to remove tensioner to get at one of them. I took the bolts out of the P/S pump and A/C compressor bracket and just swung it out of the way to skip a couple steps....

[skloczko]

Got the water pump outta there. ****Note, I still did not take off the radiator, only when attempting to pull the crankshaft pulley did I realize that the extra space was definitely going to help

[skloczko]

To take the bolt out of the pulley, i ended up putting an extension through the large hole on the left until it wedged against the timing cover. Not the best way to do this, but a Haynes manual offered it as an option and I was stuck, because that bolt was tough. Also to note here, one of the other holes on the bottom there, used for the puller, wasnt threaded, so I got some 5" bolts that went right through the hole and put a nut and washer on the back of the pulley, tedious but i was then able to use the puller.

[skloczko]

*Caution* Id like to share my screw up. Make sure whatever extension you stick in this pulley makes it all the way to the back of the threads and stops. Only after I pulled the pulley off did I realize that the extension piece I used was a tad wide and caused some slight damage to those threads. Fortunately it wasnt bad and I used a tap to clean it up.

[skloczko]

Got the pulley off, had to take out 10 or so bolts from around the timing cover, some of them were stud/bolts, and I believe there were six small bolts from the oil pan that threaded vertically into the bottom of the timing cover. Popped the cover off...and fun ensued....

[skloczko]

Broken pieces everywhere... 4 or 5 that came out of the visible part of the upper oil pan.

Took out a few more after I took that pic. Those long thin wire grabber hands that you can get at autozone are great for this....

[skloczko]

Can anyone tell me if this tensioner is broken? There seems to be an abnormal amount of play in it.... Is this part purchasable? Know what its called or where I can find it?

[skloczko]

Tied the slack on the timing chain... the bolt that needs to be taken out to remove the left cassette is going to be a pain. Gold984 has some good pics of how he did it. I think its going to help seeing as I can fit in here.....between the engine and the front radiator that I didnt take out.

[2000StreetRod]

Originally Posted by skloczko

Can anyone tell me if this tensioner is broken? There seems to be an abnormal amount of play in it.... Is this part purchasable? Know what its called or where I can find it?

I don't have one so don't know how to tell if it's weak.

1l2z6l266aa $21.65 retail $14.29 discount

TENS ASY - BAL SHFT

tousleyfordparts.com (Explorer Forum vendor, employee cost +10%, cost for shipping)
tascafordparts.com
silverstatefordparts.com
fordgenuinepartsonline.com

[skloczko]

Thanks for the info again StreetRod. Located that part and some others that I will need and contacted the local Ford dealership. Fortunately I have a hookup and paid at dealer cost for the following parts and will have them tomorrow.

Balance Shaft Tensioner PN: 6L266
Jackshaft chain tensioner PN: 6L266
Engine timing cover gasket PN: 6020
Water pump gasket PN: 8507

[2000StreetRod]

Originally Posted by skloczko

Tied the slack on the timing chain... the bolt that needs to be taken out to remove the left cassette is going to be a pain. Gold984 has some good pics of how he did it. I think its going to help seeing as I can fit in here.....between the engine and the front radiator that I didnt take out. . .

The bolt that holds the lower section of the front guide assembly is behind the jackshaft sprocket. Frequently, the upper front chain is replaced when the guide assembly is replaced. Replacing the upper chain requires removal of the jackshaft sprocket. Apparently you are just going to replace the guide assembly and not the chain. An angle box wrench may be required to remove the bolt and you won't be able to measure the torque when you tighten it. I don't know if the jackshaft main sprocket is keyed. If it is then it can be removed and reinstalled without retiming the cams.

[2000StreetRod]

I found the following statement in a post by CDW6212R:

"The cam sprockets, and the jackshaft sprockets, all four of them are held in place by pressure, the bolt pressure. If you loosen any of those four(two in back), the timing will be lost. The slightest movement of the cams or jackshaft, will change the cam timing quite a bit."

So removing the main jackshaft sprocket to get room to remove the left guide assembly lower bolt would require retiming both camshafts.