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Explorer & Ranger Transmissions, Transfer Cases, & Differentials Transmissions, Transfer Cases. A4LD, 4R70W, 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, 5R55E, M5OD, BW 1354, Control Trac, GEM, AWD. Ford 8.8", Dana 35

torque converter install problems

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Old 03-22-2010, 10:03 PM   #1
daves97sport
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torque converter install problems

'97 Exp 4.0SOHC, 5R55e
Doing an engine swap - old motor was froze so converter was pulled with engine. Trying to install converter on the shaft and will not go in the last inch or so - measured 1-5/8" from engine to end of flex plate, and just over 1 inch from bell housing to TC pads...
Read some threads on "wiggling" but just isn't going on.
Is there something I'm missing here? Could the pump have become mis-aligned?
Using a probe rod, I can feel where the notches are (near 3 & 9:00 )that should match up with the end of the TC
Is there any reason that the rear wheels should be off the ground? The outer shaft is not turning during install tries.




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Old 03-23-2010, 07:36 AM   #2
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Just to add, the TC, flexplate, and spacer are all from existing vehicle.
2 days of trying to install engine and only made it to the pins just to the edge of the bellhousing.
Need to get this done and out of borrowed garage - any help or ideas appreciated.




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Old 03-23-2010, 08:19 AM   #3
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Are the T/C bolts tight or loose?

Getting the engine angle just right is the hard part. Try to get the trans at an angle that helps the engine lined up better. Remove both drive shafts, and loosen the trans mount. use a ratchet strap on the tail housing (or something similar) to lower the rear, thus raising the front, a little at a time.

It really helps to have 3 people do this. 1 person on each side with pry bars and 1 person operating the hoist.

The plate can get caught up and bent so be careful.




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Old 03-23-2010, 08:53 AM   #4
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also, to keep the plate from falling off the pins (the last motor i did i was ready to toss the dam thing to), put the plate on the pins, then take a chisel and "stake", or put a small bur on the pin so the plate will stay in place.




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Old 03-23-2010, 09:13 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by gmanpaint View Post
Are the T/C bolts tight or loose?

Getting the engine angle just right is the hard part. Try to get the trans at an angle that helps the engine lined up better. Remove both drive shafts, and loosen the trans mount. use a ratchet strap on the tail housing (or something similar) to lower the rear, thus raising the front, a little at a time.

It really helps to have 3 people do this. 1 person on each side with pry bars and 1 person operating the hoist.

The plate can get caught up and bent so be careful.
No bolts...
Engine is out - cannot get the TC (torque converter) to fully mate on the transmission (see above measurements)




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Old 03-23-2010, 09:15 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by vroomzoomboom View Post
also, to keep the plate from falling off the pins (the last motor i did i was ready to toss the dam thing to), put the plate on the pins, then take a chisel and "stake", or put a small bur on the pin so the plate will stay in place.
Great tip on that point! THANKS!!!




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Old 03-23-2010, 10:40 AM   #7
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I have not worked on the trans but the others I have installed a converter on I do the following. When you wiggle rotate the converter. You can try spinning one direction or alternate clockwise and counter clockwise. Try up and down and side to side when you wiggle or shake. When it goes on you will hear it seat all the way back.
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:52 AM   #8
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I have not worked on the trans but the others I have installed a converter on I do the following. When you wiggle rotate the converter. You can try spinning one direction or alternate clockwise and counter clockwise. Try up and down and side to side when you wiggle or shake. When it goes on you will hear it seat all the way back.
A good part of last night was spent doing this - all 3 of us tried (with some kicking also involved ) Then tried with a dowel pin poking beyond the seal to find where the 2 notches should be, tried again and still no luck...




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Old 03-23-2010, 03:31 PM   #9
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Keep trying. Maybe ur pushing too hard and need a lighter approach. That is the only way to install one. I have never seen or heard of another way. The pump drive is flat on both sides so you can be almost 180 degrees out. So you need spin or rotate clockwise or counter clockwise a bunch. Then again maybe not if you start off close.

I would never kick on one. You don't need that much force.
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:52 PM   #10
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Still no luck, so we pulle dthe seal out to see better inside. I can see now how much play there is on the pump and would make it difficult. Still no luck engaging.
Once engaged, will the pump turn easily?

Also our local Adv auto list seal for the 4R but not the 5R tranny - anyone have a part number for the torque converter seal? Shaft size 1.61", housing 2.44"




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Old 03-24-2010, 10:50 PM   #11
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Got seal from dealer. Tried without the seal in place and still couldn't get mated.
Removed the bell housing and tried installing on the bench and it went right in.
Re-installed bellhousing and again several hours of trying unsuccessful




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Old 03-24-2010, 11:44 PM   #12
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Is the converter hub out of round or bent?

If the converter lined up and mated with the bellhousing off then I would think the hub is bent because the bellhousing was stopping the unit from going into the tranny fully...

Perhaps the hub got bent pulling the engine with the converter attached to the engine...




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Old 03-25-2010, 12:37 PM   #13
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I found this picture of Glaciers A4LD build.



Is this what the pump is supposed to look like for the 5R55E also? Note the bearing race shown.

On our pump, we saw 2 rows of needles with a carrier - no outer race.

Also I was told that the output (small inner) shaft should only be protruding showing the splines, about an inch past the end of the larger splined shaft. Ours is out 1 3/4 inch. It will not move in or out either.




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Last edited by daves97sport; 03-25-2010 at 12:41 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:58 PM   #14
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I found this pix on the frankentranny rebuild page that showed the difference in a4/4r (previous pix) and the 5R does look like this...




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Old 03-27-2010, 10:30 PM   #15
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It's odd that it would work with the bell housing removed, but not connected. It sounds like the angle was better when the bell housing was removed, so it was easy to install. Have your vehicle tilted at a 45* angle (front up/rear down), and turn the converter clockwise as you apply pressure.
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Old 03-27-2010, 10:53 PM   #16
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I had this problem as well, and what a horrible time I had. I struggled with the trans forever until I realized that the torque converter wasn't seated all the way. The problem lies with that pesky inner splined shaft. When you remove the torque converter it sometimes pulls out a little and you just cant get it back in and seated no matter how hard you try. It binds in a brass bushing. I had to take out all the bolts inside the bellhousing holding the bellhousing to the main case, remove the BH, get the shaft seated properly and reassemble. One should probably replace the gasket if you open it up but I just did not care at that point since I had been working with it on and off for a couple weeks.

Everything went together so easy after I did that. lol So easy it was just plain sad and I felt like an idiot for wasting all that time.




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Old 03-29-2010, 12:06 AM   #17
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I had this problem as well...
The problem lies with that pesky inner splined shaft. When you remove the torque converter it sometimes pulls out a little and you just cant get it back in and seated no matter how hard you try. It binds in a brass bushing.
EXACTLY!!!
Pulled the tranny out Thurs. and after securing it vertical, took the bellhousing off, tried to remove the shaft, and finally broke loose. gathered up gaskets/orings etc and a new Tcase gasket and back together, where we should have been last Sunday




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Old 06-26-2011, 10:36 AM   #18
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input shaft walked out a bit with convertor removal

I have just found myself experiencing this exact same issue after pulling the convertor with the (blown) motor. My input is sticking out about an inch too far. Shaft turns but feels pretty snug wiggling front to back. The motor is still on a stand.
--Is it possible to remove the bellhousing and reposition shaft with the transmission still (horizontal) in the truck?
--Any compications?
I was freaking out till I read this thread...Thank you
-98 4x4 Ranger

Last edited by vintage-racer; 06-26-2011 at 10:50 AM. Reason: addition
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Old 06-26-2011, 04:53 PM   #19
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Are you sure the center shaft is installed correctly? The ends are different and it only goes in the trans one way. The end with the short splines goes into the trans, the long spline end goes into the torque converter.

If this was a working trans, don't remove the bell housing.
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:23 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by vintage-racer View Post
I have just found myself experiencing this exact same issue after pulling the convertor with the (blown) motor. My input is sticking out about an inch too far. Shaft turns but feels pretty snug wiggling front to back. The motor is still on a stand.
--Is it possible to remove the bellhousing and reposition shaft with the transmission still (horizontal) in the truck?
--Any compications?
I was freaking out till I read this thread...Thank you
-98 4x4 Ranger

Hey man, I saw that you tried to send me a PM but my box was full. As for your issue, you should be able to undo the 6 or 8 large bolts that are inside the bell housing that hold the case together. Once that shaft came out on mine, I could not for the life of me get the shaft back out and in correctly. I had to separate the case and then it pretty much came out by itself. I was then able to reinstall properly and re-tighten the case bolts. This transmission is a severe pain in the butt when it comes to this shaft. The best solution is to never let it come out, but sometimes it does on its own when the converter is removed.




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