crazyflights
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- August 31, 2008
- Messages
- 2,257
- Reaction score
- 22
- City, State
- St. Joseph, MO
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 97 1 ton Jeep
I am not quite done with my V8 swap but is very close and does run and appear to run very well, I have gathered alot of information from various other thread, online research, trial and error and want to make this a little easier for the next person behind me. My swap info will be best when used with Non OBD2 vehs, such as Bronco2's Older Rangers and 91-94 Explorers. If you plan on doing 4wd/v8 swap, with Explorer based 5.0 Powertrain.
This is to hit on some of they key areas that I know I wondered about before getting started, not detailed how to actually pull out the motor and so forth.
-First this is based on using a 5.0 from Ford Explorer and mine was from 97 which does not have PATS which takes one headache out of the swap and I am replicating all the orginal equipement and swapping onto a 92 Ranger Cab which is sitting on 89 Bronco 2 frame.
***Things you will need***
Complete wrecked donor would be easiest but here is the list-
-ENGINE-from 5.0 Explorer prefered 97 and older *No Pats and has dual fuel lines*
-TRANNY- from Ford Explorer 5.0 *4R70W I believe*
-TRANSFERCASE-factory is awd with no Low range so not a good choice, options are 4406 Manual, Advanced Adapters tranny adapter so you can run 1354 Manual, 1356 Manual will require trimming very tight fit, or run an Atlas. -I am using an Atlas
-Driveshafts- will be custom depending on your axles, lift, and t-case choice **If your using the Advanced Adapters peice using 1354 tcase u may be able to use orginal driveshafts**
-Fuel tank Pump- Im running stock fuel Pump that was running a 2.9 V6 in 89 Bronco 2 appears to work fine **If you have 91-94 Explorer stock Pump should work fine**
-Fuel lines- I adapted input line from the explorer, that goes from fuel filter to engine side, then had to use that orginal B2 line that went from the filter to engine as the opposite line.
-Engine mounts- you will need adapting mounts- I used Solid Mounts from L&L
-Transmission crossmember- Will need modified to line up, unless you are using the advanced adapter kits that allows you to run 1354, Will put mount in correct location.
-Oil pan- I used factory Explorer Oilpan- but had to modify my crossmember on the frame to not hit, and I have a Solid axle swap, may be little tougher with TTB brackets, so you may need Oil pan.
-Oil filter relocation kit- You will have to have this, there is just not room, several are made, I used L&Ls, and is very nice unit.
-Throttle cable- I was able to use the 97 explorers throttle cable with my 92 Ranger Cab pedal
-Tempature Sensor -My gauge in truck would not work with factory explorer sensor, but went to auto parts store and one for the orginal 3.0 engine was same threds installed it and bam-temp gauge works great. -so likley will need switched on your application.
-Manifolds or headers- The stock manifolds fit and you can run the stock explorer 1st set of exhuast and cats, but the 2nd set of Cats I had to delete and make a short connection between where they were and my muffler. There are not many good options for headers with the explorers if you want to try and stay emissions legal and cause some 97s and all 98 and Newer have the GT40-P heads which angle the spark plugs differently which has interferance issues. best option is Torque Monster Swap headers but order well in advance he is very busy and can take awhile to get them.
-Radiator- I used stock Explorers 5.0 Radiator but did have to cut and trim the bottom of my core support out, I plan to brace it back up, there are many swap radiators available also. I used a lower radiator hose for 76 Ford bronco with 302. Factory explorer upper hose. Update I believe 99 -01 Explorer V8 lower radiator hose is a 1 peice hose.
-Condensor- Core support will need modified which if you are using explorers radiator that will be done allready, I have not completed hooking up my a/c so will advise more when completed but lines do not appear to connect will need and adapter line??
-Powersteering line- You will need adapter for the steering box then hydraulic line with JIC6 fitting, will update with more info
-Firewall clearance- Was not an issue since I have 3in Body lift, close but all fits.
-Computer- use the factory explorer PCM, Mounting the Explorer puts PCM under the hood on the firewall about middle of the engine bay, you can build a box and cut Hole to mount it similar if your vehicles isnt located there, on my 92 Ranger cab it was located on passengerside floor kickpanel, I lengthed all the wires and placed mine in the factory spot which Holds it in place, but if I hjad to do it again after extending the wires I would put it on the firewall under the Hood.
-Sensors- The explorer has couple addtional sensors, I added Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor to my gas tank, which invovled cutting out the one from the explorer tank and welding it on the Bronco2 tank top, *which working with fuel tanks is scary I rinsed both with water numerous times then soapy water, then while cutting and welding had them full of water. I didnt blow up so worked for me. Do at your own risk. Also there is Charcoal Canister and 1 other sensor that were added. _i will have to get correct names , i just dont have everything handy with me.
-Wiring was actually fairly simple and I will go into more detail when I get my notes handy.
Will continue to update when I get a chance
This is to hit on some of they key areas that I know I wondered about before getting started, not detailed how to actually pull out the motor and so forth.
-First this is based on using a 5.0 from Ford Explorer and mine was from 97 which does not have PATS which takes one headache out of the swap and I am replicating all the orginal equipement and swapping onto a 92 Ranger Cab which is sitting on 89 Bronco 2 frame.
***Things you will need***
Complete wrecked donor would be easiest but here is the list-
-ENGINE-from 5.0 Explorer prefered 97 and older *No Pats and has dual fuel lines*
-TRANNY- from Ford Explorer 5.0 *4R70W I believe*
-TRANSFERCASE-factory is awd with no Low range so not a good choice, options are 4406 Manual, Advanced Adapters tranny adapter so you can run 1354 Manual, 1356 Manual will require trimming very tight fit, or run an Atlas. -I am using an Atlas
-Driveshafts- will be custom depending on your axles, lift, and t-case choice **If your using the Advanced Adapters peice using 1354 tcase u may be able to use orginal driveshafts**
-Fuel tank Pump- Im running stock fuel Pump that was running a 2.9 V6 in 89 Bronco 2 appears to work fine **If you have 91-94 Explorer stock Pump should work fine**
-Fuel lines- I adapted input line from the explorer, that goes from fuel filter to engine side, then had to use that orginal B2 line that went from the filter to engine as the opposite line.
-Engine mounts- you will need adapting mounts- I used Solid Mounts from L&L
-Transmission crossmember- Will need modified to line up, unless you are using the advanced adapter kits that allows you to run 1354, Will put mount in correct location.
-Oil pan- I used factory Explorer Oilpan- but had to modify my crossmember on the frame to not hit, and I have a Solid axle swap, may be little tougher with TTB brackets, so you may need Oil pan.
-Oil filter relocation kit- You will have to have this, there is just not room, several are made, I used L&Ls, and is very nice unit.
-Throttle cable- I was able to use the 97 explorers throttle cable with my 92 Ranger Cab pedal
-Tempature Sensor -My gauge in truck would not work with factory explorer sensor, but went to auto parts store and one for the orginal 3.0 engine was same threds installed it and bam-temp gauge works great. -so likley will need switched on your application.
-Manifolds or headers- The stock manifolds fit and you can run the stock explorer 1st set of exhuast and cats, but the 2nd set of Cats I had to delete and make a short connection between where they were and my muffler. There are not many good options for headers with the explorers if you want to try and stay emissions legal and cause some 97s and all 98 and Newer have the GT40-P heads which angle the spark plugs differently which has interferance issues. best option is Torque Monster Swap headers but order well in advance he is very busy and can take awhile to get them.
-Radiator- I used stock Explorers 5.0 Radiator but did have to cut and trim the bottom of my core support out, I plan to brace it back up, there are many swap radiators available also. I used a lower radiator hose for 76 Ford bronco with 302. Factory explorer upper hose. Update I believe 99 -01 Explorer V8 lower radiator hose is a 1 peice hose.
-Condensor- Core support will need modified which if you are using explorers radiator that will be done allready, I have not completed hooking up my a/c so will advise more when completed but lines do not appear to connect will need and adapter line??
-Powersteering line- You will need adapter for the steering box then hydraulic line with JIC6 fitting, will update with more info
-Firewall clearance- Was not an issue since I have 3in Body lift, close but all fits.
-Computer- use the factory explorer PCM, Mounting the Explorer puts PCM under the hood on the firewall about middle of the engine bay, you can build a box and cut Hole to mount it similar if your vehicles isnt located there, on my 92 Ranger cab it was located on passengerside floor kickpanel, I lengthed all the wires and placed mine in the factory spot which Holds it in place, but if I hjad to do it again after extending the wires I would put it on the firewall under the Hood.
-Sensors- The explorer has couple addtional sensors, I added Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor to my gas tank, which invovled cutting out the one from the explorer tank and welding it on the Bronco2 tank top, *which working with fuel tanks is scary I rinsed both with water numerous times then soapy water, then while cutting and welding had them full of water. I didnt blow up so worked for me. Do at your own risk. Also there is Charcoal Canister and 1 other sensor that were added. _i will have to get correct names , i just dont have everything handy with me.
-Wiring was actually fairly simple and I will go into more detail when I get my notes handy.
Will continue to update when I get a chance
