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Front Quick Strut Install

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Old 10-10-2010, 02:41 PM   #1
roob
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Front Quick Strut Install

yesterday I installed two new Monroe Quick Strut on my Ex and here is the pics. I hope this helps anyone who attempts this and it was anything but "quick"


yeah here it is



and thats what it looks like



heres the old one



Remove this bottom bolt from this side, here ford did something to help me, the nut on the other side has a tab attached to it that locks it to the frame as you loosen or tighten in, thank you ford



Remove the 3 nuts from the top



and its out, came right out a little lean and twist like a puzzle and it slid right out



Look Mom NO STRUT



Insert strut like so



Heres where the fun begins, it doesnt go in like it came out, the quick strut base is a little thicker than the factory and it doesnt clear the top. I placed another jack to raise the arm to a point that allowed the strut to clear, than shoved it back. once in place it was now longer than would line up with bottom hole. I put a spring compressor on it in place and was able to line up the bottom which needed a jack at the bottom of the strut to convince it in to place as the new rubber bushing made it difficult



and its in.

Roob
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:44 PM   #2
buddychan
Seattle, WA
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Great write-up.

How do you like them so far? Can you tell the difference between your old ones and these? How long did it take you to install these?

Thanks.
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:47 PM   #3
fusseli
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Helpfull photos and tips, searching suggested that removing the upper control arm as well as the sway bar end links was necessary. It's curious to see that maybe that's not needed. Should this be made a sticky..?

I'm looking to do my fronts in the near future also, they are squeeky and bouncy at 135k.
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:18 PM   #4
jstorm001
Levittown , PA
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I have quick struts in the rear on my explorer installed two years ago there already rusted pretty bad.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:23 PM   #5
fusseli
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Originally Posted by jstorm001 View Post
I have quick struts in the rear on my explorer installed two years ago there already rusted pretty bad.
What brand?
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:27 PM   #6
FordFool2
Cedar Rapids, IA
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Darnit! Another thread made me believe I needed to remove the stabilizer end link and separate the upper control arm. So I did. This looks too simple.

I used Monroe. Currently special "Shocktober". Buy 3 and get 1 free (via rebate).
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:59 PM   #7
fusseli
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Monroe is also what I'd like to use since I already have Monroe Reflex in the rear. I'm hoping that jstorm001's rusty quick struts were some cheapies...
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:11 PM   #8
waskly
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im actually impressed you got it in and out with out disconnecting a control arm, upper or lower...




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Old 09-15-2012, 11:03 AM   #9
roob
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Quick Struts

Was a bit of a puzzle getting them in without removing upper control arm, which probably would have made it easier. They are now 2 years old and I am thinking they may already need replacing with about 40k miles on them and not real hard driving I just think that they are too soft and I could do better. I will post what I end up going with not that I have very many choices.
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Old 09-15-2012, 02:51 PM   #10
Huskerbob
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I don't understand all the fuss about getting the front assemblies, shock and spring, out without removing the upper control arm. It's really simple.

Jack the truck up and secure it with a jack stand/s. Take the wheel off.

Remove the lower shock bolt. You may have to punch it out with a drift.

Remove the 3 nuts on the upper bolts/studs through the engine compartment. Open the hood and take a peek and you'll see them.

Give the whole assembly a good rap or 3 with a dead blow hammer and it will fall down through the lower control arm. Then wiggle it around and pull it up and out.

Install the new one in the reverse order. Drop the assembly down through the lower control arm and then up so you can install the top 3 bolts/studs and nuts first and then the bottom bolt.

You may need to use a small floor jack to get the bottom up and lined up with the hole. Or you may be able to push down on the lower control arm enough to get it lined up. A long pry bar helps here. Careful what you pry against.

Bang the big bolt through and lock it down.

Torque to spec or as tight as you can get it with a 2' cheater bar. If you live in a rusty area use some Rust Buster a few hours before you attempt the nut removal.

You can't put it in wrong as the top 3 studs are not equally spaced so there is only one proper way to put them up in there.

At least this applies to my '03 Eddie 4x4 in non-rusty North Carolina.
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Old 09-15-2012, 04:26 PM   #11
waskly
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Originally Posted by Huskerbob View Post
I don't understand all the fuss about getting the front assemblies, shock and spring, out without removing the upper control arm. It's really simple.

Jack the truck up and secure it with a jack stand/s. Take the wheel off.

Remove the lower shock bolt. You may have to punch it out with a drift.

Remove the 3 nuts on the upper bolts/studs through the engine compartment. Open the hood and take a peek and you'll see them.

Give the whole assembly a good rap or 3 with a dead blow hammer and it will fall down through the lower control arm. Then wiggle it around and pull it up and out.

Install the new one in the reverse order. Drop the assembly down through the lower control arm and then up so you can install the top 3 bolts/studs and nuts first and then the bottom bolt.

You may need to use a small floor jack to get the bottom up and lined up with the hole. Or you may be able to push down on the lower control arm enough to get it lined up. A long pry bar helps here. Careful what you pry against.

Bang the big bolt through and lock it down.

Torque to spec or as tight as you can get it with a 2' cheater bar. If you live in a rusty area use some Rust Buster a few hours before you attempt the nut removal.

You can't put it in wrong as the top 3 studs are not equally spaced so there is only one proper way to put them up in there.

At least this applies to my '03 Eddie 4x4 in non-rusty North Carolina.
top of the strut top the threads are long, the stabilizer links prevent the l arm from going down, also clearance and wresting issuse, vs, disconnect the upper arm, remove the sway bar link, pry down on the l arm, strut falls out.

i never said it cant be removed with out disconnecting anything, its just more work, harder then to remove 2 nuts.




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Old 09-15-2012, 05:45 PM   #12
Huskerbob
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Thumbs up Front strut/shock removal

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Originally Posted by waskly View Post
top of the strut top the threads are long, the stabilizer links prevent the l arm from going down, also clearance and wresting issuse, vs, disconnect the upper arm, remove the sway bar link, pry down on the l arm, strut falls out.

i never said it cant be removed with out disconnecting anything, its just more work, harder then to remove 2 nuts.
waskly you are correct, I just didn't have any problems with mine, HOWEVER, I did omit a step in that I did remove the stabalizer bar link from the lower control arm and the bar. I did this because I was replacing the link but I can see how it helped to let the lower control arm drop down to make removal easier. OOPS
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:57 AM   #13
FordFool2
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Old strut came out without removing the end link or separating the upper control arm ball joint. However, the new one would not clear. I separated the upper ball joint and was able to get it to go. End link would have been a better choice.
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:07 AM   #14
rrack
san antonio, tx
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Awesome write up! I just did the rears on our 05 Mountaineer. A breeze! However, I researched and found a video so I wasn't blind going into it. I'm planning on attacking the fronts this afternoon. However, I can't find any information for the install. What happened to your photos? I'm pretty sure I know what to pull but I welcome any tips to make a job easier...
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:05 PM   #15
cross6
Baton Rouge, LA
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I hear the monroe quick struts don't last long at all. But I've had good luck with monroe sensa-trac shocks and struts as OE replacement. Wish they offered a sensa-trac version of the quick strut.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:38 PM   #16
rrack
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Just finished up the fronts. Those were a booger! Probably because this is an AWD. The cv joint and boot cramp things up a bunch. I couldn't get the upper control arm ball lose so I had to remeve the upper arm bolts that allowed just enough clearance for the top pin to slide in. You're right. The lower seat is just slightly larger than the oem but it also has a thick rubber seat and the OEM is merely steel. The assembly was really mashed up against the cv and axle but just had to really twist things around. Rears took about two hours and the fronts about three. All twisting wrenches. Anyway, I sure hope these last! The OEM had 130k and were still decent. If I'm not mistaken, these Monroe's have a lifetime warranty. Gonna hold em to it too!
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:51 PM   #17
cross6
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Originally Posted by rrack View Post
Just finished up the fronts. Those were a booger! Probably because this is an AWD. The cv joint and boot cramp things up a bunch. I couldn't get the upper control arm ball lose so I had to remeve the upper arm bolts that allowed just enough clearance for the top pin to slide in. You're right. The lower seat is just slightly larger than the oem but it also has a thick rubber seat and the OEM is merely steel. The assembly was really mashed up against the cv and axle but just had to really twist things around. Rears took about two hours and the fronts about three. All twisting wrenches. Anyway, I sure hope these last! The OEM had 130k and were still decent. If I'm not mistaken, these Monroe's have a lifetime warranty. Gonna hold em to it too!
Seems like the complaints come from asian car owners. Maybe their truck stuff is better quality. Sounds like it with the added rubber seat.
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:23 PM   #18
rrack
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K. All four are on and I still have a slight issue. The truck seems to ever so slightly rock from side to side. Very noticeable especially at highway speeds. Just doesn't have a smooth flat ride. I've checked all the sway bar bushings and links and they are all tight and in good condition. The rears seem to have slightly more bounce than I expected. Both the front upper control arm ball joint boots are torn up but I didn't notice any slack. I did have to nearly remove both front upper control arms since I couldn't get the ball joints lose without breaking them. Would this have affected the alignment? Only the upper arms and sway bar links were removed on the fronts and everything buttoned back up tight. I'm planning on replacing the upper links then getting an alignment but wanted to get some input of things to double check. Could I get an alignment then throw the upper arms on later? Just not sure if I have enough time to order the arms before a road trip soon. I'm really hoping alignment and not a defective weak shock/spring. Oh btw, yes, I did check... no uneven tire wear whatsoever...

2005 AWD 4.0L
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:02 PM   #19
cross6
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Yes the upper arms control camber and caster. Did your truck still have the alignment plates from the factor? They're big plate washers under the UCA bolts and they have teeth to lock into holes on the body to align the arms.
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:37 PM   #20
rrack
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Funny you mentioned that. Yes, they were still there. One had green paint while the other had pink paint. They were a pain to get the claws back in place. I guess for now, I'll search for new upper arms and balance the tires. Thanks for the info.

-I could never completely get the bolts on the arm out since it was hitting the top side of the wheel well. I'm gonna have some tinkering to do when I really do replace them. Along with a puller for to separate the ball joint.

Last edited by rrack; 06-09-2014 at 05:28 PM.
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