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2002 Explorer V6 4.0 Engine Seized Up

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Old 10-21-2010, 04:50 PM   #1
MoonRocky
Lake Ozark, Missouri
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2002 Explorer V6 4.0 Engine Seized Up

Welcome to my first thread.

In this thread I will be fixing my 02 Explorer.


First some quick specs.
2002 Ford Explorer XLT V6 4.0- pretty much stock as far as I know.

The problem is that the engine is seized up.

SEIZED
To have moving parts bind and stop moving as a result of excessive pressure, temperature,
or friction (usually fol. by up ): The engine seized up from cold.

The Back Story,
I bought this 02 in 2006 with about 65k miles. It wasnt more than 1 month and I went to a car wash(the automatic drive thru type) and had a momentary laps of reason and ran into the bar that comes down. After a new hood, grill brace an paint and install of some make belive hood scoops it was back on the road. (2000 Bucks) At this point everything seemed to work fine.

Early in 2007 my #2 son takes a girl for a ride and ran it in a ditch on the passanger side. Winsheild, fender, door, front roof post, mirror. I took it in again and with limited funds had the mirror post and winsheild fixed. Still have a crinkled fender and door. The door only closes if its closed while the back door is open. But thats another project after the current problem is solved.

Between 2007 and 2009 replaced 2 broken axles and a broken spring. CV Joints

In fall of 2009 after installing new brakes and oil change, Drove to upstate New York for a family matter. While returning, the rear passanger wheel fell off and passed me on the HWY, What a ride! I had to leave it in Ohio for a couple months and it was fixed for about 800 bucks.

After picking up and driving home to Missouri, I noticed the 4X4 High light flashing. No 4WD at all. Another project after current repair.

The Current Project

So I am driving a busted up 2WD Explorer. Then it happens, I go out one morning and hit the starter and hear a sound.( Bump thump or something like that) The starter wont turn the engine at all. The engine is seized up. So I change out the starter for a junk yard one(20 bucks) and no luck it is still seized.


I take out the spark plugs.

I try spinnig the the engine with the Crank Bolt. I cant get to the bolt. The next thing I do is have it towed to a local shop for 60 bucks. The guy at the shop says the engine is seized and he suggested a replacement engine. after leaving it ther for a coulpe weeks and he didnt come up with an engine or price I had it towed back home.(another 60 bucks)
Thats when I had the idea that I would fix the problem myself. So the search was on to find out what was going on. I found this site via a search engine and started reading tons of posts. Here are a couple that I read that pointed me to diagnose the problem some what.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...t=timing+chain

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/....php?p=2419107

I just search and read and searched and read.!!!

So I get to the point that I must take it apart to find out whats wrong. I started with basic engine removel things. Drain fluids and take stuff off the top of the engine. I didnt need to much know how to take it apart so far.
Read more posts about engine removal just to see how its done. Just search.

Now I am not a advanced car guy, I have a basic set of hand tools.


These are the two special sockets I needed for Air Intake Plenum and the Valve Covers.

Dont Forget the GOOP!

Here is a pic of the parts I took off already,



After removing the water pump the power steering pump and moving the AC unit to the side.
Now I am at the point where i am taking off the timing chain cover. took off a half dozen bolts
then saw that there are 5 bolts on the oil pan that had to come out. Still wont come off. So of course I did some searching and found that its all one piece. Ill have to remove the crank pulley and harmonic balancer. I can just barley see behind it an it looks like some palstic peices are wedged in.

Now is the time for questions. Do I remove the engine or fix in place? My anwser was that it has to come out if I expect to fix the timing chain and guides. I looked up a kit and it comes with 4 chaines and guides and sprockets. With the only way to repair all is with engine removal.

This is what it looks like now.


To this point I have not removed the radiator.

Last edited by MoonRocky; 10-21-2010 at 06:58 PM. Reason: adding pictures
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Old 10-21-2010, 06:49 PM   #2
waskly
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if the motor is seized you need to remove it and best thing to do is mount it to an engine stand.

also you will need timing tools for the chains, after you find out whats busted.

easy fix is swap in a long block assembly.

also if chains or guilds went and move valve timing, heads or valve damage probably exist.
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:13 PM   #3
MoonRocky
Lake Ozark, Missouri
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You hit it on the head. I know at this point it has to come out. The quick fix option is still on the table. As I have read more posts I have found that this is an interference engine. Which I believe means that as you said, if the timing goes off that valves end up hitting the pistons and either break or bend or what ever, screw it up. I hope that it just jammed when it broke. I didn't think it was running bad before it when Thump. I listen to the radio loud and never noticed any odd noises.

Question?
Why is one side darker than the other?
With the engine seized up, how do i get to the torx converter bolts?

I thought that if I get the timing chain cover off I would simply remove the brocken parts that are jamming it and then it will turn. (I sure hope so)

This is the timing chain cover.

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Old 10-21-2010, 07:16 PM   #4
waskly
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torque converter will be pulled with engine so get ready for a front pump seal, inner on the transmission.

what do you mean one side darker?

Last edited by waskly; 10-21-2010 at 07:16 PM. Reason: wow i cant make sense today.
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:29 PM   #5
MoonRocky
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My first attempt to remove the harmonic balancer failed.
I was able to easily remove the crank pulley bolt using the 1/2 inch 19mm socket and ratchet and my handy plastic pipe.

Then came the pulley and balancer. First I found that they are 2 parts. The pulley and the balancer attach together with some kind of rubber.?

No tool for that in my arsenal. So off to the local OR***YS, which of course they didn't have the tool and had to go another 10 miles to the next OR***YS and rented a Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool. Homeward bound. Then it seem to fit. Still not removing the radiator. But!!! the bolts that came with the tool where too short. Took it back..
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:35 PM   #6
MoonRocky
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The top of the engine and the overhead cams, the right side looks darker than the left.
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:58 PM   #7
ragajungle
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Moon,
Wow! The wheel fell off, o/d light blinkingNow the engine siezed?! I have heard 02's have been mega problem year for this truck. (Maybe because its a first year model?)

Why did your wheel fall off?!
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:07 PM   #8
2000StreetRod
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camshaft position

From the photo it appears that the camshafts may still be in time. The "nub" for the camshaft position sensor appears to be approaching its normal position for #1 piston approaching TDC on the compression stroke. The timing slot on the right (passenger side) camshaft appears to be approaching its normal position for #1 piston approaching TDC on the compression stroke. What is the position of the TDC mark on the crankshaft balancer relative to the pointer?

Did the crankshaft rotate any counterclockwise when you removed the crankshaft balancer retaining bolt?

So you have the spark plugs and the starter motor removed but the crankshaft will still not rotate. Were there any indications of low oil pressure before the morning that you heard the noise and the engine seized? Did you check the oil level in the pan with the dipstick?

Did you have any previous timing chain rattle?

Can you post some photos showing the condition of the front and rear cassette guide assemblies?
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:45 PM   #9
waskly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRocky View Post
The top of the engine and the overhead cams, the right side looks darker than the left.
probably just that the right side head is the oil filler has some hole to displace the oil vapors.
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:53 AM   #10
MoonRocky
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To answer the question: Why Did The Wheel Fall Off?

Heres the story of the wandering wheel.

Before I did the brake pads and oil change, I had a tire show some cords. All four wheels where the same except the the rear passenger wheel was worn out before the others. I took the spare that i had and put it on the rear passenger side. The spare was a Michelin on a steel rim with great tread. Then I did brake pads and drove a bunch of miles. To New York. On the way back it sheered of all the studs an came flying by.
This is a pic of the steel wheel.


So two questions came up.

Did I not tighten the studs enough?
or Did the different combination of 3 alloy wheels and a steel wheel create the problem?
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Old 10-22-2010, 01:31 PM   #11
MoonRocky
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Just removed the radiator. Interesting to find out that there is really 3 parts. The radiator the AC condenser and the transmission cooler. It hurt to undo the AC. Probably cost me a bunch to recharge it.
This is the radiator:



This is where I released the AC pressure.

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Old 10-22-2010, 01:40 PM   #12
MoonRocky
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Now back to removing the harmonic balancer. I read this post an two things stuck out.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...lancer+removal

1. The Balancer bolt should be replaced?
2. AC bolts work for the puller?

I called and confirmed that the bolt size in the puller kit I first rented was 8mm x 1.25 x 80mm. They were way too short. I am going outside now to look for the AC bolts.
Has anyone used the AC bolts before?

Why is ther 4 holes in the balancer? I know 2 are 8mmx1.25. . What are the other 2?

Better Pic of the balancer.

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Old 10-22-2010, 05:19 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by MoonRocky View Post
To answer the question: Why Did The Wheel Fall Off?

Heres the story of the wandering wheel.

Before I did the brake pads and oil change, I had a tire show some cords. All four wheels where the same except the the rear passenger wheel was worn out before the others. I took the spare that i had and put it on the rear passenger side. The spare was a Michelin on a steel rim with great tread. Then I did brake pads and drove a bunch of miles. To New York. On the way back it sheered of all the studs an came flying by.
This is a pic of the steel wheel.


So two questions came up.

Did I not tighten the studs enough?
or Did the different combination of 3 alloy wheels and a steel wheel create the problem?

if you over tighten the wheels they can fall off.

also rust on the hub. or rim the wheel could of not set right, and wobbled till it sheered the lugs.

looking at the wheel, it looks like it was not on right on the hub.
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Old 10-22-2010, 05:21 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by MoonRocky View Post
Now back to removing the harmonic balancer. I read this post an two things stuck out.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...lancer+removal

1. The Balancer bolt should be replaced?
2. AC bolts work for the puller?

I called and confirmed that the bolt size in the puller kit I first rented was 8mm x 1.25 x 80mm. They were way too short. I am going outside now to look for the AC bolts.
Has anyone used the AC bolts before?

Why is ther 4 holes in the balancer? I know 2 are 8mmx1.25. . What are the other 2?

Better Pic of the balancer.

all 4 holes are the same.
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Old 10-23-2010, 10:46 AM   #15
MoonRocky
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AC Bolts For Balancer Puller

I found what I think are the AC Bolts. I tried to screw one in but it didnt feel right. They also look too long.

Here are the bolts:


I also tried the different holes. Two let the bolt go all the way through. So they must be a different size, and bigger than 8mm.

When I took out the Harmonic Balancer Bolt it didnt even move at all in the counter clockwize direction.

I will be taking pictures of the front and back chains when I get that far.
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Old 10-23-2010, 01:06 PM   #16
waskly
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i use a gm steering wheel installer the bolts that come with it are the correct thread.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:04 AM   #17
MoonRocky
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Pulling the Harmonic Balancer

Today I am getting aggressive and one way or another that Balancer is coming off.

So off to the autoparts store in the completey other direction than the one I tried before, to rent the Harmonic Balancer Puller, the same type I rented before with the short bolts. This time I stopped by Napa (they do not loan tools) and was able to pick up two bolts that were longer. Actully they were too long. So I solved that problem with a couple washers and some small nuts that fit over the bolt.

I got two 8m x 1.25 x 110.
Here they are in the configuration that I used


Now to get the puller kit. Here it is. The needed bolts in this kit are only 80mm long. Just too short for the job at hand.


This is how the tool looks hook up to the Balancer.


I started to turn the tool an was suprised it started moving the balancer with no problems. I did the thing were you use the crank bolt with jsut a couple thereds in and the balancer came most of the way off. Then I used a ball-peen hammer to tap at the back, and the darn thing fell on the ground. Its OFF! YAHOOO!!
Here It Is:
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:33 PM   #18
MoonRocky
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Almost time for the reveal of under the timing Chain Cover.

Here is a picture of the cover with the Balancer removed.




Are the numbers pointed out anything I should record for later refernce or are they just part numbers?
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:21 PM   #19
MoonRocky
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The Big Reveal

So the timing chain cover is off. Check it out.







And there it is!



Broken guide jammed in there.

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Old 10-24-2010, 04:31 PM   #20
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Part number

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRocky View Post
. . .
Are the numbers pointed out anything I should record for later refernce or are they just part numbers?
That's the front timing cover part number. I think yours fits 1997 thru 2002 except Sport Trac. I also believe that part number is now obsolete.
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