2002 Explorer 4.0 Fuel Pump bad?

Spit · 12-09-2010, 09:29 PM

I am attempting to help my daughter with her 2002 Explorer 4.0 4by4. It will not start it cranks strong but it will not start. I checked the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail and there was no pressure. I checked the fuel pump fuse it was good so I switched the fuel pump relay with an identical relay and still it did not start, still no pressure on the fuel rail.

When I turn the key to the on position I can hear a little whirling sound but it sounds like it is coming from the engine not inside the fuel tank..when I listen down there I really don't hear anything.

I did pull off one sparkplug wire and inserted a spark checker..it shows that it is getting fire. I did not test all 6 cylinders...but I figure no pressure on the rail means I have a fuel delivery problem.

I would like to check all the easy stuff and be sure that it is the pump before dropping the tank that looks like a job! I have changed a fuel pump before on 97 Gran Caravan..that just involved loosening 2 straps. My Haynes book for the Explorer seems to show a lot more supports/braces that have to be loosened or removed

So where and what do you suggest I try next? Can someone tell me how to check that the electrical signal is getting to the pump. I think there is a wiring harness/connector on the passenger side rail. It seems to have 6 or so wires in it ...which ones power the pump. I would assume that if I can verify that 12 volts is getting to the pump and the pump isn't running it's the pump?

I suppose it could be a plugged filter...Where and how do I get to that. I trust that Ican get to that without dropping the tank

Any and all advice welcome.

Thanks

Spit

imp · 12-09-2010, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spit

I am attempting to help my daughter with her 2002 Explorer 4.0 4by4. It will not start it cranks strong but it will not start. I checked the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail and there was no pressure. I checked the fuel pump fuse it was good so I switched the fuel pump relay with an identical relay and still it did not start, still no pressure on the fuel rail.
When I turn the key to the on position I can hear a little whirling sound but it sounds like it is coming from the engine not inside the fuel tank..when I listen down there I really don't hear anything.
I did pull off one sparkplug wire and inserted a spark checker..it shows that it is getting fire. I did not test all 6 cylinders...but I figure no pressure on the rail means I have a fuel delivery problem.
I would like to check all the easy stuff and be sure that it is the pump before dropping the tank that looks like a job! I have changed a fuel pump before on 97 Gran Caravan..that just involved loosening 2 straps. My Haynes book for the Explorer seems to show a lot more supports/braces that have to be loosened or removed
So where and what do you suggest I try next? Can someone tell me how to check that the electrical signal is getting to the pump. I think there is a wiring harness/connector on the passenger side rail. It seems to have 6 or so wires in it ...which ones power the pump. I would assume that if I can verify that 12 volts is getting to the pump and the pump isn't running it's the pump?
I suppose it could be a plugged filter...Where and how do I get to that. I trust that Ican get to that without dropping the tank
Any and all advice welcome......Thanks......Spit

Your work so far sounds thorough, lots better than most questions....In my opinion, which often ain't worth too much, but anyhow, barring the possibility the vehicle was dragged through some sort of gravel pit which could have shredded or damaged wiring, it is unlikely if the fusing is known good, that power is not available at the tank (pump connections) ,,....I personally have never seen a totally clogged filter; generally, as a filter becomes more and more plugged, pressure available to injectors drops rather gradually, causing loss of power noticeable well before eng. becomes un-startable.

Am not familiar enough with the 3rd. gens to know what the tank connections look like/how situated, but if you can get at least close to that location, if SOMEONE will come up with 2002 wire colors for pump, you can pierce insulation if necessary, disconnect harness at tank better, of course, check for 12V on the correct 2 wires, REMEMBER, PCM only runs pump approx. 2 seconds just as ign. sw. reaches "on" position, then turns pump OFF, so someone must help with this check. Obviously voltage present at tank MOST LIKELY means pump shot, although a "no connection" at the connector is very remotely possible.

If the filter idea still bugs you, before messing your way back to the pump, if filter location/access is like my 2004, a removable shield hides the filter, it's clamped in place, yank it down to access fuel-line disconnects, pull off the one FROM the tank (pump), and have someone cycle the key, while you watch for a squirt in the eye........a healthy gush from that pipe tells you what to do next....My guess: no fuel there. Hope to hear resolution of problem from you.......imp

swetrid · 12-10-2010, 05:42 AM

Fuel pump, sometimes it also blows the fuse in the underhood fuse box for the fuel pump.

skeeter123 · 12-10-2010, 03:37 PM

Not sure if your model has it, but on some ex's there is a fuel pump cut-off switch which cuts power to the pump in roll-over situations; it can be reset by pressing it, it may be worth a try if you can find it....
check out:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...=fuel+pump+cut

Should be described in your owner's manual.

from gsmclean: "The inertia fuel shutoff is a switch. It is located in the lower right front corner of the passenger compartment, between the fuse/relay box and the firewall. You have to remove the plastic right kick panel from the passenger footwell to get to it. There is a large red button on the top of it - press this button down to reset it."

Not trying to start anything but did the vehicle happen to experience a sudden jolt? I sometimes get a gradual drip of info from my daughter when asking about car problems.....

the whirring from the engine may be the idle air controller re-seating itself.

hope this helps.

Spit · 12-10-2010, 07:53 PM

Thanks to all for your input. I stopped at a Ford dealer toay and they printed a wiring diagram for me, it shows that the Pink & Black wire is the fuel pump power line. I'm going to check this out tomorrow. Thanks for the tip on the 2 seconds of being hot...I did not know that and I'm sure I could have misdiagnsed it.
I did try resetting the saftey cut-out switch below the glovebox. it didn't make a difference.

A guy at a junkyard told me that he thought that a fuel pump, like a starter can have a flat spot on an armature and get stuck and that a gentle clubbing can jolt it back into running (on a temporary basis I'm sure) I might give the tank a whack or two with a rubber mallet before dropping the tank in the school parking lot it's in now. I sure would like to get it into my garage if I have to drop the tank...but my driveway is quite steep & I just don't see a way to tow it or push it in. Snow coming to central Ohio late Saturday!

I was reveiwing the instructions in my Haynes manual for dropping the tank and it indicates that a transmission crossmember has to be loosened on the left side and completely unbolted on the right and dropped 4 to 6 inches? They say to keep a jack below the transmission. Is this done to create space for the tank to come out or to get to other bolts or what? It makes me a little nervous to start removing supports like that. It also reccomends a jack with a heavy board on top to support aand lower the tank. I assume that this means I have to have 2 jacks in play at the same time..one for the trans and one for the tank? I'm probably making myself paranoid over nothing once I get into it.

Again any and all comments appreciated.

Spit

justchecking · 12-10-2010, 08:22 PM

When my fuel pump failed the fuel pump relay would get hot. After turning the key on, wait a few minutes and then feel the relay (under the hood). If it's hot then it is the fuel pump.

Someone on here also posted instructions for cutting a hole under the rear passenger seat to make a fuel pump access panel. It looked simple. I think I would try that. If my second fuel pump ever goes out I think that is what i will do.

imp · 12-10-2010, 09:38 PM

Spit, FWIW, I did the cut-a-hole in the floor of my '93 E-150 Van to get at the top of the fuel tank. Support strap nuts were terribly rusted, and I could predict real trouble trying to drop the tank.

The hole allowed quick access, sealed up very well with RTV Silicone rubber.
imp

mracer29 · 12-11-2010, 08:30 AM

I have the same problem, I bought a 2002 ford explorer last week from a friend. Cranks strong but won't start. The truck has been sitting for awhile, but was started here & there or so he says. When I spray starting fluid in the air box it starts and runs great. I for sure hear the fuel pump when the key is turned. Since I bought it every time I have tryed to start it its been below freezing. I'm hoping for a frozen fuel line.

I'm going to johnstown with a car hauler today to pick it up, once I get it home I can check for fuel pressure and check the fuel cut off switch. I did have my brother in-law go dump a bottle of heet gas line anti freez in the tank so maybe I'll get lucky and it will start today since its also spose to be 41 degrees.

Spit · 12-12-2010, 10:18 AM

I think I found my problem... corrosion in the 8 wire connector to the fuel pump. I tired smacking the tank a number of times with a rubber mallet, no luck. So I decided to check and see if the voltage is getting to the pump. I probed the pink and black wire..couldn't get a pin to stick in the wire when I tried to pierce it, so I shoved the pin all the way down it to the terminal block thinking that I would make good contact that way. Then I hooked up my meter to the pin and to ground. Thein I turned the key...looking for voltage on my meter, and car started!!! I was so focused on screen on my meter.... I never saw any voltage on my meter by the way. I didn't realize that for a half-second that it had started!

I ended up pulling that 8 pin connector apart and when it came apart a small cloud of white corrosion and red rust crumbs flew out. I cleaned up the connection with some corrosion cleaner and a small wire brush. It started repeatedly after that with no problem.

I would strongly reccomend to anyone having the same problems I had to check that connector. It's on the outside of the passenger side frame rail. It's under a cover that has two legs that slide into holes in the fraime and two plastic pins that hold it on. I think that there are additional connectors on top of the tank, but I think you would have to drop, or loosen the tank to get to those.

I may be confused in thinking that that it's the pink&black wire. Re-reading the wiring diagram that Ford gave me the pink & black does say (Fuel Pump Power), but there is a Red&Yellow wire that the illustration says is (Voltage supplied in Start & Run). So it's fair to say that I am still a little confused on which wire should have the 12v when..but my problem seems to be fixed!

Thanks to all for your help!

Spit

12-09-2010, 09:29 PM	#1
Spit Wannabe Elite Explorer Columbus Ohio 2002 XL Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 6 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	2002 Explorer 4.0 Fuel Pump bad? I am attempting to help my daughter with her 2002 Explorer 4.0 4by4. It will not start it cranks strong but it will not start. I checked the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail and there was no pressure. I checked the fuel pump fuse it was good so I switched the fuel pump relay with an identical relay and still it did not start, still no pressure on the fuel rail. When I turn the key to the on position I can hear a little whirling sound but it sounds like it is coming from the engine not inside the fuel tank..when I listen down there I really don't hear anything. I did pull off one sparkplug wire and inserted a spark checker..it shows that it is getting fire. I did not test all 6 cylinders...but I figure no pressure on the rail means I have a fuel delivery problem. I would like to check all the easy stuff and be sure that it is the pump before dropping the tank that looks like a job! I have changed a fuel pump before on 97 Gran Caravan..that just involved loosening 2 straps. My Haynes book for the Explorer seems to show a lot more supports/braces that have to be loosened or removed So where and what do you suggest I try next? Can someone tell me how to check that the electrical signal is getting to the pump. I think there is a wiring harness/connector on the passenger side rail. It seems to have 6 or so wires in it ...which ones power the pump. I would assume that if I can verify that 12 volts is getting to the pump and the pump isn't running it's the pump? I suppose it could be a plugged filter...Where and how do I get to that. I trust that Ican get to that without dropping the tank Any and all advice welcome. Thanks Spit

12-10-2010, 05:42 AM	#3
swetrid Wannabe Elite Explorer Reading Pa 2001 Eddie Bauer Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,883 Vehicle Specs	Fuel pump, sometimes it also blows the fuse in the underhood fuse box for the fuel pump. __________________ Resident Ford Tech for the last 17 years, 2001 Eddie Bauer 5.0L, Cherry Bomb Cat back, 2010 Ecoboost Flex

12-10-2010, 03:37 PM	#4
skeeter123 Wannabe Elite Explorer 2002 XLT 4.6L Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 Vehicle Specs	Not sure if your model has it, but on some ex's there is a fuel pump cut-off switch which cuts power to the pump in roll-over situations; it can be reset by pressing it, it may be worth a try if you can find it.... check out: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...=fuel+pump+cut Should be described in your owner's manual. from gsmclean: "The inertia fuel shutoff is a switch. It is located in the lower right front corner of the passenger compartment, between the fuse/relay box and the firewall. You have to remove the plastic right kick panel from the passenger footwell to get to it. There is a large red button on the top of it - press this button down to reset it." Not trying to start anything but did the vehicle happen to experience a sudden jolt? I sometimes get a gradual drip of info from my daughter when asking about car problems..... the whirring from the engine may be the idle air controller re-seating itself. hope this helps. Last edited by skeeter123; 12-10-2010 at 03:49 PM.

12-10-2010, 08:22 PM	#6
justchecking Wannabe Elite Explorer Lebanon, Ohio 2002 XLT V6 2WD Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 107 Vehicle Specs	When my fuel pump failed the fuel pump relay would get hot. After turning the key on, wait a few minutes and then feel the relay (under the hood). If it's hot then it is the fuel pump. Someone on here also posted instructions for cutting a hole under the rear passenger seat to make a fuel pump access panel. It looked simple. I think I would try that. If my second fuel pump ever goes out I think that is what i will do. __________________ Stock III Gen 02 XLT V6 2WD built 12/00!, 189,000 Miles, Trans rebuilt at 176,000, Noisy 3.55 Rear End, Class III/IV Hitch and Tow A Lot, Replaced Rear Springs, PS Pump, Fuel Pump, and Thermostat (twice)

12-12-2010, 10:18 AM	#9
Spit Wannabe Elite Explorer Columbus Ohio 2002 XL Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 6 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Update on 2002 Explorer Fuel Pump I think I found my problem... corrosion in the 8 wire connector to the fuel pump. I tired smacking the tank a number of times with a rubber mallet, no luck. So I decided to check and see if the voltage is getting to the pump. I probed the pink and black wire..couldn't get a pin to stick in the wire when I tried to pierce it, so I shoved the pin all the way down it to the terminal block thinking that I would make good contact that way. Then I hooked up my meter to the pin and to ground. Thein I turned the key...looking for voltage on my meter, and car started!!! I was so focused on screen on my meter.... I never saw any voltage on my meter by the way. I didn't realize that for a half-second that it had started! I ended up pulling that 8 pin connector apart and when it came apart a small cloud of white corrosion and red rust crumbs flew out. I cleaned up the connection with some corrosion cleaner and a small wire brush. It started repeatedly after that with no problem. I would strongly reccomend to anyone having the same problems I had to check that connector. It's on the outside of the passenger side frame rail. It's under a cover that has two legs that slide into holes in the fraime and two plastic pins that hold it on. I think that there are additional connectors on top of the tank, but I think you would have to drop, or loosen the tank to get to those. I may be confused in thinking that that it's the pink&black wire. Re-reading the wiring diagram that Ford gave me the pink & black does say (Fuel Pump Power), but there is a Red&Yellow wire that the illustration says is (Voltage supplied in Start & Run). So it's fair to say that I am still a little confused on which wire should have the 12v when..but my problem seems to be fixed! Thanks to all for your help! Spit

12-10-2010, 07:53 PM	#5
Spit Wannabe Elite Explorer Columbus Ohio 2002 XL Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 6 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks to all for your input. I stopped at a Ford dealer toay and they printed a wiring diagram for me, it shows that the Pink & Black wire is the fuel pump power line. I'm going to check this out tomorrow. Thanks for the tip on the 2 seconds of being hot...I did not know that and I'm sure I could have misdiagnsed it. I did try resetting the saftey cut-out switch below the glovebox. it didn't make a difference. A guy at a junkyard told me that he thought that a fuel pump, like a starter can have a flat spot on an armature and get stuck and that a gentle clubbing can jolt it back into running (on a temporary basis I'm sure) I might give the tank a whack or two with a rubber mallet before dropping the tank in the school parking lot it's in now. I sure would like to get it into my garage if I have to drop the tank...but my driveway is quite steep & I just don't see a way to tow it or push it in. Snow coming to central Ohio late Saturday! I was reveiwing the instructions in my Haynes manual for dropping the tank and it indicates that a transmission crossmember has to be loosened on the left side and completely unbolted on the right and dropped 4 to 6 inches? They say to keep a jack below the transmission. Is this done to create space for the tank to come out or to get to other bolts or what? It makes me a little nervous to start removing supports like that. It also reccomends a jack with a heavy board on top to support aand lower the tank. I assume that this means I have to have 2 jacks in play at the same time..one for the trans and one for the tank? I'm probably making myself paranoid over nothing once I get into it. Again any and all comments appreciated. Spit

12-10-2010, 09:38 PM	#7
imp Wannabe Elite Explorer Missouri Ozarks 2004 XLT Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 1,184 Vehicle Specs	Spit, FWIW, I did the cut-a-hole in the floor of my '93 E-150 Van to get at the top of the fuel tank. Support strap nuts were terribly rusted, and I could predict real trouble trying to drop the tank. The hole allowed quick access, sealed up very well with RTV Silicone rubber. imp

12-11-2010, 08:30 AM	#8
mracer29 Wannabe Elite Explorer Columbus Ohio 2002 Explorer XLT Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	I have the same problem, I bought a 2002 ford explorer last week from a friend. Cranks strong but won't start. The truck has been sitting for awhile, but was started here & there or so he says. When I spray starting fluid in the air box it starts and runs great. I for sure hear the fuel pump when the key is turned. Since I bought it every time I have tryed to start it its been below freezing. I'm hoping for a frozen fuel line. I'm going to johnstown with a car hauler today to pick it up, once I get it home I can check for fuel pressure and check the fuel cut off switch. I did have my brother in-law go dump a bottle of heet gas line anti freez in the tank so maybe I'll get lucky and it will start today since its also spose to be 41 degrees.