brake booster pushrod question?

how far out should the brake booster pushrood be set at?i have a first gen brake booster but a 2nd gen MC and i think the pushrod came out farther on the 2nd gen brake booster and i need to set mine to that spec not a 1st gen spec,or are they the same?

Just to follow up. If memory serves me correctly the specs. are the same for the pushrod lengths for 1st and 2nd generation, according to Centric Parts. You can call and double check.

Yea im within spec but still no brakes

You may have the wrong master cylinder. It may be 2nd generation but I believe there were 4 different master cylinders produced for the 2nd generation. Unfortunately all I can tell you is your best bet is getting the correct MC. I am not sure which one you have and this may make a difference. You could try lengthening the pushrod in 1/4 turn increments until you get the pedal feel you like but I had mine set at the stock tolerance with the MC per my thread.

The mc and rear is from a 99. Shouldnt make a difference if all use the same pushrod length

I think it needs to come out a bit.going to try and bleed again and again,as everything is new,mc,lines and calipers front and rear!

jd4242 said:

The mc and rear is from a 99. Shouldnt make a difference if all use the same pushrod length

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You are correct about the pushrod length but the master cylinder in the 1999 will not work in the 1st generation. The master made for the 1995, as outlined in my write-up is different than the other 2nd generation MC's, I would suggest biting the bullet and purchasing the same exact master as I spec'd in the write-up, I paid $73.00 for it at the time. Another question for you, did you bleed the master cylinder before you installed it? I know this would not help but be sure you bleed it before it goes in. Hope this helps.

So a 95 with or without portion valve?

And yes i bench bleed it

jd4242 said:

So a 95 with or without portion valve?

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Without a proportioning valve. The valve is located on the drivers side frame rail on these rigs. If you removed it you will need one with the proportioning valve, if you do need one that you will want to call Centric, ask for Bryan, he will be able to tell you what you need.

Here is my old post: (Follow it and you will be golden, you will need to plug the front ABS outlet on the MC if you dont have front ABS, I didn't, use brass plug)
Yesterday I spoke with a technician at Centric Parts (large brake component manuf.) and I told him what I had done, rear-end swap to 4.10 LSD and disc brakes, from 1999 Explorer, and that I was having rear bias issues, essentially brakes were dragging/binding up in the rear. He told me that this is due to preloaded hydraulic pressure that is present in disc/drum master cylinders. This allows the drum brake to do what it is supposed to once the brake pedal is engaged, without it, the timing of the rears in relation to the fronts would be out of sync.

He advised me to swap out the stock master (1991) for a 1995 Explorer master cylinder (part # 130.65044 w/cruise control or # 130.65043 w/o cruise control). Since I have cruise I went with the 130.65044.