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Aluminum Canoe on the stock bars?

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Old 03-14-2011, 03:16 PM   #1
scoobycarolan
Troy, NY
'11 XLT
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 56

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(Original Poster)
US Aluminum Canoe on the stock bars?

Hey everyone. I just installed my stock crossbars and I own a rather heavy 9 foot aluminum canoe. Whats the best way for me to transport it? Right on the bars and tied off to the front & rear or do I need some kind of canoe carrier?
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:49 PM   #2
sm4astan
Holland Patent, NY
2011
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 231

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Don't have my X yet, but the manual says Max recommended weight is 100 lbs. Is it more than that?

Maybe others can chime in on how important adhering to that Max Load is.

Assuming no load issues, my guess is it would always be better to use a carrier specific to what you're carrying (i.e. spread the load, secure tie down, etc.).
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:07 PM   #3
46er
NJ
'97 XLT
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 94

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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobycarolan View Post
Hey everyone. I just installed my stock crossbars and I own a rather heavy 9 foot aluminum canoe. Whats the best way for me to transport it? Right on the bars and tied off to the front & rear or do I need some kind of canoe carrier?
I haul mine on Thule bars, with the L brackets to keep it from sliding and tie downs bow & stern and one over the forward bar. Might want to use some cut pieces of bicycle inner tube over the tie downs where it touches the EX. And check the weight of your canoe for Fords roof limit, I believe the limit is 100lbs. My canoe weighs 38lbs. You wouldn't want the roof to wrinkle
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:23 AM   #4
jeeden
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 285

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I don't think it should max out the weight. I would put some rubber strips or similar on the cross bars to keep them from getting scratched and to provide a material that can compress when you lock down the canoe. As mentioned, I would also put some neoprene strips or rubber strips under the tie downs.

Not sure what you use to tie, but ratcheting straps are the only way to go...I hardly use rope or bungies anymore. If you go to Home Depot in the Hardware aisle they will have them. There are single packs of straps for like $20, but they are rated for like 10000lbs. What you want are the 4 pack of straps (they come in a plastic case) that are like $10-$15. They should be rated for about 1000lbs each. They also have rubber on the handles so they won't stratch anything the ratchet is up against. I can't recommend them enough.

Here is a picture for you, this is back on my 2003 explorer, but I have done it on my 07 and plan to on my 11.

Notice the strap on the hood? In the photo it is released, but I usually put one strap on each cross bar and then one from the back end to the receiver hitch (put a hitch in with a clevis or just tie around) and then I put one on the front over the front of the hood to the tow hook or something sturdy in front. These aren't necessary, just extra, make sure you pad it all well or you will scratch the paint when the wind makes the strap vibrate.

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Old 03-15-2011, 09:35 AM   #5
46er
NJ
'97 XLT
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 94

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Originally Posted by jeeden View Post
Not sure what you use to tie, but ratcheting straps are the only way to go...I hardly use rope or bungies anymore.
The problem I have with ratchets is should the front one let go for any reason, your gonna have one beat up front end and windshield. More likely if you travel rough roads to go paddling. The right knots do the job more safely and are just as quick IMO. But each to their own.
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:19 PM   #6
scoobycarolan
Troy, NY
'11 XLT
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 56

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(Original Poster)
Talking Thanks!

Hey everyone,
Thanks for the great notes. I got a Yakima canoe kit that has these foam blocks that fit PERFECTLY around the stock crossbars. Now my last issue before I take it out this weekend, the only tow hitch up front is off center and where is the screw-in dealy? Do I have to worry about it being off center?
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