New Navajo Truggy build

**FROADER** · 07-10-2011, 10:42 PM

Nice work!

I say at least one tub in the middle with plate and dimple dies on either side.

*86 slo-vo* · 07-11-2011, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elgatoprerunner

Started by cutting just under the lip of the door
What a pain in the ass this was. There is about 3 or 4 different layers of sheet metal through our this area.

not what i was hoping to hear. ill be cutting mine soon. our sliders will be alot alike, you read me mind on what i wanted to do with mine lol

Elgatoprerunner · 07-11-2011, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86 slo-vo

not what i was hoping to hear. ill be cutting mine soon. our sliders will be alot alike, you read me mind on what i wanted to do with mine lol

The initial cut was done with a die grinder and cutting disc. I peeled back the sheet metal then cut the next with a plasma, peeled that back then cut the rest with a combination of plasma and sawsall. If that helps.

*shawn.m* · 07-11-2011, 02:05 PM

vote for one of the greatest fab threads on this site! SICK welding skills!

subscribed

*zensius* · 07-11-2011, 07:28 PM

I'm not sure how well this would work for your rig. But there was a mod people were doing some years ago. On top of the stock leaf stack you would add the top leaf from a Ranger leaf set. Then cut the eyes off the original top leaf. It was supposed to allow for a softer ride, to a point. Never did it so I can't vouch for it. I think it was called The Zimmerman mod. Look it up.

Elgatoprerunner · 07-12-2011, 07:22 PM

Has anyone used air shocks on their SAS'd explorer? I'm not really happy with the front coils on the navajo. Way too soft. Scary soft. I've been looking at Sway A Way 2.5 air shocks. Anyone have any advice on these? Only thing I've heard is that they are used best on lighter crawlers. The Navajo is pretty light now. And I plan on going fiberglass front end so it will be even lighter.

Its either air shocks or coil overs, they are just so dammed expensive.
I'm probably going to move the front coils to the rear and run a similar radius arm set up.

*86 slo-vo* · 07-12-2011, 09:08 PM

if your worried about being soft you should stay away from the air shocks. they can be extremely soft. which is the reason why most of the guys that run on the street go to coilovers.

your weight range is fine for airshocks but you would probably need some kind of sway bar for the street if the leafs feel soft.

**FROADER** · 07-12-2011, 11:42 PM

IZwack used airshocks on his initial build. I don't remember if he's using them on the rebuild.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...+obama&page=17

*mounty71* · 07-12-2011, 11:58 PM

Have you thought about just getting some good quality rebuildable/valvable shocks under the front? You want soft springs for crawling so it can flex easily, but a well-valved shock will do wonders in controlling how quickly the suspension will compress and rebound. You can find some good deals on used King/Fox/Swayaway/Bilstein/Radflo/etc. shocks and they are easy to rebuild and valve to exactly what you want. That's the route I would go if it were my truck.

Elgatoprerunner · 07-13-2011, 12:09 AM

Thanks for the great info guys. Wasn't aware that air shocks are also soft. I think if I get a sway bar it will help a lot.
Something I just thought of. Does it matter which end is up on a typical shock? I'm running nitrogen procomp shocks with the body up. Could that cause the softness? It almost feels like the shocks aren't doing anything.

Elgatoprerunner · 08-07-2011, 10:29 PM

Started on the cage.
Tacked the fenders in place for inspiration

After all this work I ended up scrapping the rear section. Good thing it was only tacked.

Elgatoprerunner · 08-07-2011, 10:50 PM

I'm ditching the Navajo fenders and going to make my own. Will run LED's for brake lights.
I want to make the rear pure buggy.

The rear will be able to carry a 38" tire vertically right behind the gas tank.
I will probably make a tool box in between the tire and cab.

Still have a lot of tubing still to fab for the rear.

GRNMACHINE · 08-07-2011, 10:54 PM

Really Crazy Cool!!!!!

*shawn.m* · 08-08-2011, 12:26 AM

coolstuff!

**Dannyboy** · 08-08-2011, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elgatoprerunner

Thanks for the great info guys. Wasn't aware that air shocks are also soft. I think if I get a sway bar it will help a lot.
Something I just thought of. Does it matter which end is up on a typical shock? I'm running nitrogen procomp shocks with the body up. Could that cause the softness? It almost feels like the shocks aren't doing anything.

Yes, it does matter if they are upside down

mini · 08-10-2011, 12:16 AM

looks like a killer job so far the only prob i see with your plan is how do you plan to remove a 38" tirer plus rim vertically ?

would it not be easier if the back bars were hinged at one end to make life a little easier for spare removal

just my .02

Elgatoprerunner · 08-10-2011, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mini

looks like a killer job so far the only prob i see with your plan is how do you plan to remove a 38" tirer plus rim vertically ?

would it not be easier if the back bars were hinged at one end to make life a little easier for spare removal

just my .02

Good point. These bead Locked swampers are not light. I'm still deciding on spare mount location. I made a mock up spare last night out of ply wood. I'll do some trial fitment and see where the best location is. Remember there still needs to be room for my ice chest and tool box.

If I need to get to the spare I hope I have some buddies with me.

GRNMACHINE · 08-10-2011, 09:04 PM

Yeah ice chest, gotta stay hydrated!!

tylersloan · 08-11-2011, 08:10 PM

Wow just wow this is some of the best fab work I've seen in a long time keep it up and post more pictures lol.

Elgatoprerunner · 08-28-2011, 10:56 PM

I wasn't happy with the way the last cage was going so I scrapped it.

I ended up removing the rear shock hoop, moving the gas tank forward 5 inches and cutting the rear of the frame and 3" pipe cross member.

If you remember originally I bobbed the frame and wrapped it around some sch 40 3" pipe.

Once I moved the gas tank forward I cut the rear of the frame as close to the shackle as possible. I then wrapped it in plate steel

07-10-2011, 10:42 PM	#101
FROADER Moderator Huntington Beach, CA Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 20,045 Vehicle Specs	Nice work! I say at least one tub in the middle with plate and dimple dies on either side. __________________ COLIN IGNACIO FORUM RULES My 2010 Explorer - Explorer #1 (sold) - Explorer #2 (sold) - My F-150 (sold) - My Ranger (sold) - My Videos

07-11-2011, 02:05 PM	#104
shawn.m Elite Explorer placerville, ca 1989 Bronco 2 with 92 4.0 Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 168 Vehicle Specs	vote for one of the greatest fab threads on this site! SICK welding skills! subscribed __________________ sold but not forgotten 1989 B2 - 1993 4.0 D35 4.10 LS, 8.8 4.10 SOA LS and disc brakes, 6" superlift, SS brake lines front, hatch cut off, 75mm AeroStar MAF Sensor, 2.5 Magnaflow Cat into 2.5 Flowmaster

07-11-2011, 07:28 PM	#105
zensius Elite Explorer Pleasant Hill, CA '92 4 dr. EB Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 1,445 Vehicle Specs	I'm not sure how well this would work for your rig. But there was a mod people were doing some years ago. On top of the stock leaf stack you would add the top leaf from a Ranger leaf set. Then cut the eyes off the original top leaf. It was supposed to allow for a softer ride, to a point. Never did it so I can't vouch for it. I think it was called The Zimmerman mod. Look it up. __________________ 92 4wd 4dr EB, Superlift 5.5, lock right front,No Slip rear, Rs 9000's, 31's/33's,Warn hubs, giant carton of milk, enormous bowl of cereal, over 75 cereal pillows.

07-12-2011, 07:22 PM	#106
Elgatoprerunner Wannabe Elite Explorer La Habra, CA 1992 Mazda Navajo Truggy Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 174 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Air Shocks Has anyone used air shocks on their SAS'd explorer? I'm not really happy with the front coils on the navajo. Way too soft. Scary soft. I've been looking at Sway A Way 2.5 air shocks. Anyone have any advice on these? Only thing I've heard is that they are used best on lighter crawlers. The Navajo is pretty light now. And I plan on going fiberglass front end so it will be even lighter. Its either air shocks or coil overs, they are just so dammed expensive. I'm probably going to move the front coils to the rear and run a similar radius arm set up.

07-12-2011, 11:42 PM	#108
FROADER Moderator Huntington Beach, CA Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 20,045 Vehicle Specs	IZwack used airshocks on his initial build. I don't remember if he's using them on the rebuild. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...+obama&page=17 __________________ COLIN IGNACIO FORUM RULES My 2010 Explorer - Explorer #1 (sold) - Explorer #2 (sold) - My F-150 (sold) - My Ranger (sold) - My Videos

07-12-2011, 09:08 PM	#107
86 slo-vo Elite Explorer owensboro, KY 92 Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 129 Vehicle Specs	if your worried about being soft you should stay away from the air shocks. they can be extremely soft. which is the reason why most of the guys that run on the street go to coilovers. your weight range is fine for airshocks but you would probably need some kind of sway bar for the street if the leafs feel soft.

07-12-2011, 11:58 PM	#109
mounty71 It's green, not gray. San Francisco, CA '00 Mountaineer Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 3,081 Vehicle Specs	Have you thought about just getting some good quality rebuildable/valvable shocks under the front? You want soft springs for crawling so it can flex easily, but a well-valved shock will do wonders in controlling how quickly the suspension will compress and rebound. You can find some good deals on used King/Fox/Swayaway/Bilstein/Radflo/etc. shocks and they are easy to rebuild and valve to exactly what you want. That's the route I would go if it were my truck. __________________ MATT SCHWARTZ 2000 MOUNTAINEERINATOR REGISTRY 1991 FORD EXPLORER (IN EXPLORER HEAVEN) REGISTRY

07-13-2011, 12:09 AM	#110
Elgatoprerunner Wannabe Elite Explorer La Habra, CA 1992 Mazda Navajo Truggy Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 174 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks for the great info guys. Wasn't aware that air shocks are also soft. I think if I get a sway bar it will help a lot. Something I just thought of. Does it matter which end is up on a typical shock? I'm running nitrogen procomp shocks with the body up. Could that cause the softness? It almost feels like the shocks aren't doing anything.

08-07-2011, 10:29 PM	#111
Elgatoprerunner Wannabe Elite Explorer La Habra, CA 1992 Mazda Navajo Truggy Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 174 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Cage, 1st try Started on the cage. Tacked the fenders in place for inspiration After all this work I ended up scrapping the rear section. Good thing it was only tacked.

08-07-2011, 10:50 PM	#112
Elgatoprerunner Wannabe Elite Explorer La Habra, CA 1992 Mazda Navajo Truggy Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 174 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Cage 2nd attempt. I'm ditching the Navajo fenders and going to make my own. Will run LED's for brake lights. I want to make the rear pure buggy. The rear will be able to carry a 38" tire vertically right behind the gas tank. I will probably make a tool box in between the tire and cab. Still have a lot of tubing still to fab for the rear.

08-07-2011, 10:54 PM	#113
GRNMACHINE Wannabe Elite Explorer IL 95 Sport 4x4 Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 2,368 Vehicle Specs	Really Crazy Cool!!!!! __________________ 95 Sport 4x4, 3.73, tt/shackles, K&N FIPK, 33X12.50X15 BFG T/A, 15x10 DC-1's, Pro Comp ES9000 shocks, Flowmaster Catback, ARB OME Leaf Springs, 2" BODYLIFT "Thy shall Not Leaveth Thou Chariot Stocketh" Explorer 2nd Genesis GRNMACHINE

08-08-2011, 12:26 AM	#114
shawn.m Elite Explorer placerville, ca 1989 Bronco 2 with 92 4.0 Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 168 Vehicle Specs	coolstuff! __________________ sold but not forgotten 1989 B2 - 1993 4.0 D35 4.10 LS, 8.8 4.10 SOA LS and disc brakes, 6" superlift, SS brake lines front, hatch cut off, 75mm AeroStar MAF Sensor, 2.5 Magnaflow Cat into 2.5 Flowmaster

08-10-2011, 12:16 AM	#116
mini Wannabe Elite Explorer Crazy Canuck 1993 expo Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 6 Vehicle Specs	looks like a killer job so far the only prob i see with your plan is how do you plan to remove a 38" tirer plus rim vertically ? would it not be easier if the back bars were hinged at one end to make life a little easier for spare removal just my .02

08-10-2011, 09:04 PM	#118
GRNMACHINE Wannabe Elite Explorer IL 95 Sport 4x4 Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 2,368 Vehicle Specs	Yeah ice chest, gotta stay hydrated!! __________________ 95 Sport 4x4, 3.73, tt/shackles, K&N FIPK, 33X12.50X15 BFG T/A, 15x10 DC-1's, Pro Comp ES9000 shocks, Flowmaster Catback, ARB OME Leaf Springs, 2" BODYLIFT "Thy shall Not Leaveth Thou Chariot Stocketh" Explorer 2nd Genesis GRNMACHINE

08-11-2011, 08:10 PM	#119
tylersloan Wannabe Elite Explorer Central Illinois 92 explorer 4 door Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 17 Vehicle Specs	Wow just wow this is some of the best fab work I've seen in a long time keep it up and post more pictures lol. __________________ 92 explorer 2wd fixing to be a 4wd with a SAS and a divorced 205 with 78 to 79 bronco or f 100 axles All post sent from my iPhone 3GS

08-28-2011, 10:56 PM	#120
Elgatoprerunner Wannabe Elite Explorer La Habra, CA 1992 Mazda Navajo Truggy Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 174 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Cage design. 3rd attempt I wasn't happy with the way the last cage was going so I scrapped it. I ended up removing the rear shock hoop, moving the gas tank forward 5 inches and cutting the rear of the frame and 3" pipe cross member. If you remember originally I bobbed the frame and wrapped it around some sch 40 3" pipe. Once I moved the gas tank forward I cut the rear of the frame as close to the shackle as possible. I then wrapped it in plate steel